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Mercedes W211 2005: Driver's Window Control Issue - Mechanical or Electrical?

gdkj 6189 13
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
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  • #1 16647239
    gdkj
    Level 26  
    Hello, cars are not my domain so please take that into account.
    Mercedes W211 year 2005, the ability to move the left window disappeared, the only reaction to the buttons is a short humming in the control module in the door, because replacing the relay did not change anything, I wonder if the problem lies in the mechanics and too high engine current, I was controlling the glass with a 6V battery and In motion, the current oscillated around 2A and increased to 6A when stopped. The glass moves, but sometimes it needs help.
    Please let me know if such a low ratio of braking current to work is a good clue to draw a conclusion about the need for maintenance / replacement of windshield mechanics.
    Greetings.
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  • #2 16647304
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    There is power on the thick motor wires? Measured light bulb
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  • #3 16647310
    gdkj
    Level 26  
    This simple test did not come to my mind, but when the engine is disconnected, there is no humming.
    If the voltage on the engine went, I understand the mechanic? Light bulb, how many watts to give?
    Greetings.
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  • #4 16647311
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    How many wires do you have on the engine? Provide a photo
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  • #5 16647399
    gdkj
    Level 26  
    Two thick and probably 4 thin ones go to the motor assembly, they are limit switches or a position encoder, I do not know because I did not dare to take it apart. In electronics, there is a sheet metal shunt from which the current flowing through the motor is monitored. Hence, I wonder if the motor current is too high.
    At the moment I only have the control module.

    Mercedes W211 2005: Driver's Window Control Issue - Mechanical or Electrical?
  • Helpful post
    #6 16647404
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    Thick is power plus and mass. I bet one isn't there. Check the door grommet - body.
  • #7 16647424
    gdkj
    Level 26  
    Thick on the connector I indicated are the motor wires. Power is supplied to the pins on the other side of the relay. Thanks for your willingness, but I need info on the intensity of the current flowing through the engine while the window is moving. I am asking because I have no practice and I can not judge if the glass mechanism is too heavy for the electronics to react like that.
    Greetings.
  • #8 16647580
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    If the engine runs on a 6V battery, think ... and it should be> 12V after firing. Main + - and 4 thin control power supplies from the panel. How electronics clicks and wants to move and there is nothing ...
  • #9 16648474
    gdkj
    Level 26  
    andrzej20001 wrote:
    If the engine runs on a 6V battery, think ... and it should be> 12V after firing. Main + - and 4 thin control power supplies from the panel. How electronics clicks and wants to move and there is nothing ...


    I do not think, this board has a driver with buttons for all windows on two wires (something like 1wire) changed by the processor on the board and fed to the other windows that work. The power supply of the entire contraption through diodes is supplied from the socket after the relay, if there was no electricity there, I would not go through the other windows. For the sake of peace of mind, I will check it after unfastening the load, the relay does not buzz. I will plug a light bulb with a lower current and maybe I can determine at what current it goes crazy.
    Theoretically, the contacting power cord can be broken, but everything else works at this time, now I wonder if the diodes are not helping here.
    Greetings.
  • #10 16649976
    _Megamax_
    Level 18  
    Have you heard about something like thermal protection for a window motor. This car model has extensive diagnostics.
    For the computer with him.
    Such a dream, not even knowing which cable to what ...

    1wire in this car, you have only one thing - communication with the alternator.
  • #11 16650797
    gdkj
    Level 26  
    Thanks for the info, a simple information on how much power the engine consumes in an efficient system would certainly be helpful to assess if the problem is a computer, i.e. a workshop.

    Greetings.
  • #12 16658770
    gdkj
    Level 26  
    A colleague andrzej20001 bingo with the fact that the cable on the last line, the voltage was only weak, the bypass glass was started.
    Greetings.

    ps. I will close the topic in a few days.
  • Helpful post
    #13 16658883
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    Because that's what practice is for. :)
  • #14 16668195
    gdkj
    Level 26  
    The damage to the cable was not at the height of the hinges, only with the fuse socket welded.
    Regards and thank you.
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around a driver's window control issue in a 2005 Mercedes W211, where the left window fails to operate properly. The user reports a humming sound from the control module when attempting to move the window, indicating potential electrical or mechanical failure. Various troubleshooting steps are suggested, including checking the power supply to the motor, examining the wiring for damage, and testing the current draw of the motor under load. Responses highlight the importance of verifying the integrity of the wiring, particularly at the door grommet and fuse socket, as well as considering the possibility of thermal protection in the motor. The user ultimately identifies a damaged cable as the source of the problem.
Summary generated by the language model.
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