Mercedes Atego Electric Window Installation: Relay Burnout, Fuse Glass Replacement & Motor Wiring

Welcome gentlemen.
I have such a problem. I wanted to install el. windows for my Mercedes Atego. That's why I bought motors, a switch and later relays. I installed everything and it turned out to be working ... until I tried to close the glass completely. Then the relay burned out, i.e. the contacts welded together. I replaced the relays for 60A and everything worked again until I started the engine. Then the 15A fuse blown, I put a stronger fuse, i.e. 20A, then the relay was welded again. (Pin 30 87a My motors are connected as follows:
The motors have two pins with alternating mass, the window controller + goes to the coil, relays first type 571 and then the same scheme only 60A. My question ? There are also relays with a resistor https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/herthbuss-elparts/7548806. can this resistor change something, because it is on a coil that does not burn out. Thanks for the answer. PS The relays / fuses are blown in the end positions of the glass, i.e. when the engine cannot continue to run.

This resistor will not change anything. After all, your coil does not burn out.
What kind of engines do you have there? From what?

from Atego Axor - something like this: http://allegro.pl/mechanizm-podnoszenia-szyby-mercedes-atego-axor-pr-i5575023448.html

In the original, it is the electronics that limits the overload current. You have to add some current limiter.
I once saw such a simple patent: someone had a similar problem and put a light bulb in the series, probably 100W and put it in a tin
You would have to do such an electronic one.

Thanks for the advice. Or maybe you know if you can buy such a limiter somewhere or how to make it and where to place it, i.e. between the engine and the relay or the relay and the fuse. Or maybe an 80A relay because I have seen such on the net

Added after 2 [minutes]:

And maybe you know how the electronics limit the current in the original. I would have used the same. Thanks

Using a high-current relay doesn't do the trick.
It's strange that this engine behaves like that. Can you measure the current draw when lowering?

Such a limiter is called a current source. There is a lot of it on the forum and on the net.

I'll check in the evening when I get home.
Added after 1 [hours] 53 [minutes]:
Are you saying that a stronger relay will not do anything? And earlier, when I had 20A, it was welding, and now 60A is the 15A SIE fuse, maybe with the 80A relay and 20A fuses will be fine?

It doesn't.
If you raise the power like this, the engine will eventually collapse or the cables will burn.

I solved the problem. It was necessary to use a relay with a resistor on the coil. Now nothing is on fire and everything works. Thanks for the help.