Faac 740 Gate Installation: XP20D Photocell Connection, Remote Control Programming & Settings

Hello colleagues
I know that this thread was scrolling on the forum, and I was browsing the posts myself before I decided to ask for help.

The case is like this - I do not know the electronics / installation of gate machines. Still, I decided to do the assembly myself.

I have a few questions

1) connecting photocells on closing fig 9 from the manual

My RX connection
2 in 4 FSW CL
3 and 4 bridged in RX on 6 Edge
5 out of 9 Plus

TX
1 to 11 TX / FSW
2 to 9 Plus

Central
Bridge 6 of 8 (Edge with -)
Bridge 3 of 11 FSW OP with TX-FSW

I noticed that RX is on all the time, TX is off (I don't know if it should be) I measured the voltage between pins 1 and 2 in TX and it was 6.7 V?


2) The question may be trivial about programming the remote control - should I program the P1 button with sw1 and the P2 button with sw2 or is it enough with the sw1 channel only?
3) Do I set anything in programs currently on display A


Thank you very much for your help, please write as easily as possible

zabrzeski wrote:

1) connecting photocells on closing fig 9 from the manual

My RX connection
2 in 4 FSW CL
3 and 4 bridged in RX on 6 Edge
5 out of 9 Plus

TX
1 to 11 TX / FSW
2 to 9 Plus

Central
Bridge 6 of 8 (Edge with -)
Bridge 3 of 11 FSW OP with TX-FSW

With this connection you must enable the photo test function in the control panel menu. Connect 5 with RX and 2 with TX to 9 or 10 in the control panel (+ 24V). Then on both photos you should have about 24V DC.

Quote:

2) The question may be trivial about programming the remote control - should I program the P1 button with sw1 and the P2 button with sw2 or is it enough with the sw1 channel only?

It's enough if you program SW1.

Quote:

3) Do I set anything in programs currently on display A

Read the instructions, you'll find out what "A" means I will tell you ... this is the logic of the control panel. First set up the EP mode, which is "step by step"

Thank you for your answer. As for mode A, I meant whether it was enough to use automatic mode at the beginning and not set anything.
I have 5 connected from RX and 2 from TX to 9 or 10 in the exchange (+ 24V) - I will measure tomorrow if it is 24V because I do not understand why I had 6.x V.
In addition, I tried to bridge the control panel Pin 5 of 7 (I check the solutions from Electrode) but it did not help. I wonder if I can unfasten everything and check if the gate will move without photocells.
Regards

PS> I can attach photos but I don't know if it makes sense.

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As for mode A, I meant whether it was enough to use automatic mode at the beginning and not set anything

You can, but for home use it is a bit halo (unless you like it - basically this logic is for housing estates - the gate can be opened and ONLY opened from the remote control and closes ONLY after a pause - the remote control will not stop or close it when you want), Home is the most convenient mode EP - full remote control without pauses, or if you want the machine is AP (just like A closes after a pause but you can control the opening and closing with the remote) and S - the same as AP and additionally closing 5 seconds after passing photos.

As for the LED - on TX it should light all the time (power supply), On RX - one should be on all the time (power supply) and the other one should light up as pictures see and go out when covering. The FSW CL LED on the control panel should behave in the same way.

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I measured the voltage between pins 1 and 2 in TX and it was 6.7 V

It can be a function of the photo test - disable it for testing (parameter FS to .
Also test the TX photo (with the phototest off) directly from 24V, i.e. from 7 and 9 - everything should work. But if the LED does not light then - TX photo released.
Or maybe you have mistaken the polarity in TX - this photo has a single diode on the power supply and will work only with the correct polarity.

Quote:

3 and 4 bridged in RX on 6 Edge

For ease of use, connect these 3 and 4 RX directly to minus 7 (or 8) of the control panel and put bridges on the control panel between 5 and 7 (or 8) and 6 and 7 (or 8)

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In addition, I tried to bridge the control panel Pin 5 of 7

And that's good because without this connection the gate will not move at all.


PS - for proper operation pics should have casings attached - without them they are blinded by external light and may not bubble.

Thank you very much Colleague - I know now where I stand and what to check successively. I will remove the photo from the posts and check it at the control panel. Thank you! I will write on Monday.

Hello
I don't know anything at first

I unfastened the photo and bridged in accordance with the instructions Pin 3 and 4 of 11 and 6 Edge of 8 (-)
When I press on the remote control the upper button switches the relay, when I press the second LED on the switchboard is lit The gate is standing

I decided to check the solution on the electrode, i.e. start the gate without a remote control (Open A and -) the effect fired a 5A 230V fuse in a glass tube
Current to the gate is OK (I connected the drill for testing) The gate in the unlocked drive mode moves slightly away. Limiters fitted OK (magnets) All in a leveled platform with clearance between the rack and the rack with teeth (according to the instructions)

As for the hints given by a colleague of Kotbury - I did step by step as I wrote (EP mode, additional jumper between 3 and 4 on the switchboard). The only thing I did not check is whether the photocell test is turned on.
Voltage further about 7V on TX, correct polarization. 7V is not at all strange to me, I am not a specialist but I know from computer and electronics that it can be given, e.g. 12v, 24v, etc. I have not heard about 7V
A colleague of electronics will come to me in a free moment, let him look in addition. Regards

plus bridge of 5 out of 7 is flying with me

Quote:

I decided to check the solution on the electrode, i.e. start the gate without a remote control (Open A and -) the effect fired a 5A 230V fuse in a glass tube

Quote:

7V is not at all strange to me, I am not a specialist but I know from computer and electronics that it can be given, e.g. 12v, 24v, etc. I have not heard about 7V
An electronics colleague will come to me in my free time

Everything points to a sluggish switchboard - an idea with an electronics is right.