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Golf IV 1.6 SR 8V: Seeking Guidance on LED Lights Installation & Ignition Connection

Eltronfun 6702 12
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16712812
    Eltronfun
    Level 3  
    Posts: 92
    Rate: 44
    Hello. I have a car like the description. As in the description, I started to assemble the led lights in the golfik. I mounted the boxes, connected to the mass and to the parking lot. I have a problem finding a plus after turning the ignition. I have no idea where to connect. If anyone knows, please give me a hint. I will add that it is a machine, but it probably doesn't matter. Regards
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  • #2 16712869
    moto-kord
    Level 28  
    Posts: 800
    Help: 137
    Rate: 502
    You can pull the plus wire from inside the car, or from the fuses on
    battery.
  • #3 16712887
    Pedros050
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17906
    Help: 2471
    Rate: 3901
    Hello. LED lights have appropriate markings and approvals? Because you can lose a command for lack. Plus, look for the ignition in the fuse box.
  • #4 16712907
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    Posts: 27411
    Help: 1403
    Rate: 6379
    I take primitive and at the same time as fast as water in the Amazon in the rainy season.
    With reverse gear switch. It's always on hand.
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  • #5 16712908
    DriverMSG
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 44094
    Help: 3984
    Rate: 4835
    Check the cables in the horn or in the alternator.
  • #6 16712941
    kwok
    Level 40  
    Posts: 6229
    Help: 493
    Rate: 1332
    Eltronfun wrote:
    I installed in the grilles .....
    So, as usual, nothing worth because little visible "stripes". Approval is probably just whether these lamps really give the required amount of light? While on a clear day you could not turn on the lights at all, I often see rams which have drl-e with LED brightness in the lighter and stubbornly do not turn on even in heavy rain because it is day. The effect is that first you can see the car without lights and then, as you look at, are dead drl-e.

    It is better not to mount it, do not expose yourself to accidents, you have a low beam and it's good.
  • #7 16713043
    Eltronfun
    Level 3  
    Posts: 92
    Rate: 44
    The lights are really good and strong. They have approval. I transferred them from another car. I wanted to pull a plus from the reversing light sensor but here is the automatic transmission so I don't know where the sensor is.
  • #8 16713089
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    Posts: 27411
    Help: 1403
    Rate: 6379
    Put it on with the signal.
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  • #9 16713091
    moto-kord
    Level 28  
    Posts: 800
    Help: 137
    Rate: 502
    Attach from the fuse box on the battery (fuse from ABS)
  • #10 16713096
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    Posts: 27411
    Help: 1403
    Rate: 6379
    These small 30A fuses are from +30.
  • #11 16713152
    Staszek49
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2421
    Help: 228
    Rate: 1138
    In Golf IV plus after the ignition I "pulled" from the cabin, ie from the box with fuses and relays, which is located (under the plastic lid) in front of the left steering knee. Bulb meter / sampler in the palm of your hand and look for 12 V only "on the key", i.e. on one of the connectors "thicker" cables attached with a nut, probably M-6. The appropriate cable can be threaded through the "passages" in the bulkhead wall.
  • #12 16713172
    opornik7
    Electrician specialist
    Posts: 4494
    Help: 316
    Rate: 1556
    The blood floods me as if the weather is like today (cloudy, heavy rainfall), there are morons on 2x4 leds.
    But what's the security, it's important that he has been trained ;) car chassis etching on asphalt. It is a pity that the police do not get on the ass of these ingenious Dobromirs.
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  • #13 16713297
    Eidems
    Level 29  
    Posts: 2115
    Help: 83
    Rate: 251
    opornik7 wrote:
    The blood floods me as if the weather is like today (cloudy, heavy rainfall), there are morons on 2x4 leds.
    But what's the security, it's important that he has been trained ;) car chassis etching on asphalt. It is a pity that the police do not get on the ass of these ingenious Dobromirs.

    In my city, you can drive next to a police car with a phone in hand and they have it somewhere, you think that behind the daytime running lights will stop someone ;)

    Moderated By CameR:

    Reg. 3.1.11. Do not send messages that add nothing to the discussion. They are misleading, dangerous or do not solve the user's problem.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the installation of LED lights in a Volkswagen Golf IV 1.6 SR 8V. The user seeks assistance in finding a power source that activates with the ignition. Responses suggest various methods to connect the LED lights, including pulling power from the fuse box, specifically from the ABS fuse, or using the reversing light sensor. Some participants emphasize the importance of ensuring the LED lights have appropriate markings and approvals for safety. Additional suggestions include checking connections at the horn or alternator and using a multimeter to identify the correct ignition wire in the fuse box located under the dashboard.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: To power LED DRL on a Golf IV, use an ignition‑switched 12 V from the cabin fuse/relay box; “look for 12 V only on the key.” [Elektroda, Staszek49, post #16713152]

Why it matters:** This helps DIYers wire DRL safely so they work with ignition and avoid dim, unsafe installs.

Quick Facts

Where can I find an ignition‑switched 12 V in a Golf IV 1.6 SR?

Tap the cabin fuse/relay box in front of the driver’s left knee. Probe for a stud or thick wire that shows 12 V only with the key on. Use a test light or multimeter to confirm before connecting your DRL controller. “Look for 12 V only on the key.” [Elektroda, Staszek49, post #16713152]

Can I take the plus from the battery fuse box instead?

Yes. You can route power from the fuses on the battery if that path is cleaner for your install. Protect the new circuit with an inline fuse close to the source and verify whether it’s constant or ignition‑switched before relying on it. [Elektroda, moto-kord, post #16712869]

Which fuses on the battery are constant +30?

The small 30 A fuses on the battery are +30, meaning permanent battery power. They do not turn off with the ignition, so do not use them for DRL ignition sense unless your controller requires a constant feed. Use a separate ignition‑switched signal to control the relay. [Elektroda, Strumien swiadomosci swia, post #16713096]

How do I fish a wire through the firewall safely?

Use the existing bulkhead pass‑throughs near the cabin fuse/relay box. After confirming the correct stud, run your wire through the grommet and protect it with loom. Secure it away from pedals and sharp edges. Test voltage before finalizing the route. [Elektroda, Staszek49, post #16713152]

Is using the reverse‑gear switch a good ignition source on an automatic?

No. The reverse circuit only has power in reverse, and routing differs on automatic gearboxes. Your DRL would turn on only in reverse, which is unsafe. Use an ignition‑switched feed from the cabin box instead. [Elektroda, Eltronfun, post #16713043]

What approvals do my LED DRL need?

Use DRL units with proper markings and approvals. Without approvals, you risk being stopped or fined. Choose branded, certified DRL modules and mount them per guidance to ensure compliance and visibility. Keep proof of approval with your vehicle documents. [Elektroda, Pedros050, post #16712887]

Are grille‑mounted LED strips bright enough for daytime safety?

Often not. Users report many grille strips are barely visible, especially in rain. In poor weather, switch on low beams for full front and rear visibility. “It is better not to mount it… you have a low beam and it’s good.” [Elektroda, kwok, post #16712941]

What does “+30” mean here, and how is it different from an ignition feed?

+30 is constant battery power, such as the small 30 A battery‑top fuses. An ignition feed switches with the key and is found in the cabin fuse/relay box. Use +30 for constant supply and a separate ignition signal for control. [Elektroda, Strumien swiadomosci swia, post #16713096]

Any quick 3‑step method to find the right ignition wire?

  1. Remove the left‑knee fuse/relay cover and expose the studs/thick wires.
  2. With a test light, probe for 12 V only when the key is ON.
  3. Confirm again after cycling the key, then connect via a fused lead. [Elektroda, Staszek49, post #16713152]

Can I trigger DRL from the horn or alternator wiring?

You can inspect the horn or alternator cables to find a suitable switched signal. Verify with a meter that the chosen point is truly ignition‑controlled, not transient or load‑dependent. Use a relay to isolate the DRL circuit from vehicle systems. [Elektroda, DriverMSG, post #16712908]

Someone mentioned the ABS fuse—should I use it?

One suggestion was to attach at the battery‑top fuse box, referencing the ABS area. If you consider that route, ensure you do not compromise the ABS circuit. Take power via an add‑on fused lead, not by piggybacking critical safety fuses. [Elektroda, moto-kord, post #16713091]

What tool should I use to test for the correct wire?

Use a bulb‑type test light or a digital multimeter. Verify the candidate stud shows 12 V only with the key ON and reads 0 V with the key OFF. Recheck after moving the harness to avoid intermittent contact. [Elektroda, Staszek49, post #16713152]

I already connected DRL to parking lights; is that okay?

That can work as a dim/disable signal, but you still need an ignition source for automatic on/off with the engine. Move the power sense to an ignition‑switched feed and keep the parking‑light line as the off input if your controller supports it. [Elektroda, Staszek49, post #16713152]

Any safety reminders for daily use of DRL?

Do not rely on small LED bars in heavy rain or low visibility. Switch on low beams to activate front and rear lamps. Community feedback highlights poor visibility from weak DRL strips and urges using proper lighting in bad weather. [Elektroda, opornik7, post #16713172]
Generated by the language model.
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