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Golf IV 1.9tdi - Right hand brake caliper lever does not reflect.

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  • Level 5  
    Hello
    I have a problem with my right caliper because the handbrake lever lever does not always reflect me completely.

    At first, the rubber jamming the plunger broke and the clamp was burning. I cut the clamp with the pipe wrench, because it was so burnt that I could not move, I do not know whether the screw canceling the clearance from which the plunger is twisted did not distort me.

    I cleaned the clamp and replaced the piston and gaskets. After folding I noticed that the right cable is about 1.5cm longer because the plunger did not leave. I loosened the hand cable and with the key I pulled back the lever from the manual one and several times until the links were leveled. However, after tightening the hand and releasing the lever does not retract about 30 degrees from the beginning.

    Is it because she does not regress completely, the clearance does not erase on the blocks? After pushing the manual left wheel locks me on the asphalt and the right one even on the grass does not want ...

    I've heard about putting on the lever some additional spring but if the piston will then clear the play completely.

    Does anyone have a schematic of this clamp what is the dependence of pressing the lever so that the plunger is locked in position at the disc itself and has not withdrawn completely? Does the lever have to go back completely? Will the play disappear? Is the screw is a curve and I will not do anything about it.
  • Level 31  
    Put on optional springs that pull out the manual:
    left side: 1K0 615 295
    right side: 1K0 615 296
    Golf IV 1.9tdi - Right hand brake caliper lever does not reflect.
  • Level 9  
    At the back of the clamp should be a spring and it should be enough to undo the clamp and check if the other side of the clamp is not baked on youtube is a movie how to undress step by step enough that you need to make some special pliers to undress everything is on the movie
  • Level 31  
    pospiech8 wrote:
    The back of the clamp should be a spring and it should be enough

    In mk4 there were no factory-mounted springs-they fit from the top five ... purging the clamp and adjusting the cables will of course not hurt
  • Level 43  
    Sealed / rusty axis of the manual lever in the clamp-standard. The clamp to dismantle, clean and replace all the erasers, fold and it will whisk like new.
    pospiech8 wrote:

    you need to make special pliers

    Such pliers are bought, do not make up.
  • Level 35  
    Buddy Psilos 1 - I had a VW IV and there were springs at the brake callipers. Clamp dismantle, remove corrosion, lubricate with special grease, fold and work properly. Check if the brake pads are not corroded, because I had so that the corrosion cracked the block, i.e. separated the abrasive from the metal, as a result of which the pads kept "constantly" and the hub was hot. Please note that the brake cables are suspended on the chassis, as this affects the even performance of the handbrake.
  • Level 31  
    Staszek49 wrote:
    Buddy Psilos 1 - I had a VW IV and there were springs at the brake callipers.

    If it was someone who founded it - they were not assembled in the factory ... even the part code comes from Friday (1K .......) as to the rest of it is the most
  • Level 21  
    psilos1 wrote:
    Staszek49 wrote:
    Buddy Psilos 1 - I had a VW IV and there were springs at the brake callipers.

    If it was someone who founded it - they were not assembled in the factory ... even the part code comes from Friday (1K .......) as to the rest of it is the most

    The factory has come to the conclusion that it should be.
    Btw. In Germany, I drive to a car wash once every three months. In Polsza, one day after washing the car dirty. Conclusions ?
  • Level 5  
    The problem is that it's like blocking in one position 30 degrees from loosening .. And then it normally pops up. The cord is slightly clamped and I changed the piston and seals as I wrote at the top. The only thing I think is that this screw can be included.

    I will buy these additional Coreas alone and maybe I will not buy anything new because it normally blocks the foot. Only this screw probably does not twist automatically because the lever does not come back ..
  • Level 43  
    rsv6 wrote:
    I cleaned the clamp and exchanged the piston and seals as I wrote at the top.

    Dismantled the manual mechanism from the inside of the clamp, did you clean the axis of the lever and the brass sleeve cooperating with the shaft? I suppose that you did not just mess up.
  • Level 13  
    You can be sure that the mechanism in the piston with the thrust bearing works correctly
    it must be turned with tongs with slight resistance.
    greetings
  • Level 5  
    gregorius-up4 wrote:
    You can be sure that the mechanism in the piston with the thrust bearing works correctly
    it must be turned with tongs with slight resistance.
    greetings

    Is this nut in the piston working as a clearance clearance? Does it turn one way and not screw it in?

    Added after 3 [hours] 25 [minutes]:

    I put on additional springs and blocks both wheels. And he does not feel any resistance difference with springs.