Hello I have a problem with my right caliper because the handbrake lever lever does not always reflect me completely.
At first, the rubber jamming the plunger broke and the clamp was burning. I cut the clamp with the pipe wrench, because it was so burnt that I could not move, I do not know whether the screw canceling the clearance from which the plunger is twisted did not distort me.
I cleaned the clamp and replaced the piston and gaskets. After folding I noticed that the right cable is about 1.5cm longer because the plunger did not leave. I loosened the hand cable and with the key I pulled back the lever from the manual one and several times until the links were leveled. However, after tightening the hand and releasing the lever does not retract about 30 degrees from the beginning.
Is it because she does not regress completely, the clearance does not erase on the blocks? After pushing the manual left wheel locks me on the asphalt and the right one even on the grass does not want ...
I've heard about putting on the lever some additional spring but if the piston will then clear the play completely.
Does anyone have a schematic of this clamp what is the dependence of pressing the lever so that the plunger is locked in position at the disc itself and has not withdrawn completely? Does the lever have to go back completely? Will the play disappear? Is the screw is a curve and I will not do anything about it.
At the back of the clamp should be a spring and it should be enough to undo the clamp and check if the other side of the clamp is not baked on youtube is a movie how to undress step by step enough that you need to make some special pliers to undress everything is on the movie
Buddy Psilos 1 - I had a VW IV and there were springs at the brake callipers. Clamp dismantle, remove corrosion, lubricate with special grease, fold and work properly. Check if the brake pads are not corroded, because I had so that the corrosion cracked the block, i.e. separated the abrasive from the metal, as a result of which the pads kept "constantly" and the hub was hot. Please note that the brake cables are suspended on the chassis, as this affects the even performance of the handbrake.
The problem is that it's like blocking in one position 30 degrees from loosening .. And then it normally pops up. The cord is slightly clamped and I changed the piston and seals as I wrote at the top. The only thing I think is that this screw can be included.
I will buy these additional Coreas alone and maybe I will not buy anything new because it normally blocks the foot. Only this screw probably does not twist automatically because the lever does not come back ..