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Peugeot 307 Ignition Coil Error and Antipollution Fault - Coil Replacement Effects

Paulina95t 7074 11
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16730343
    Paulina95t
    Level 7  
    Hey, help me. Peugeot 307 jerks after firing on a cold engine, in addition, an antipolution fault error pops up. The computer shows the ignition coil. I would like to add that the coil was replaced (used fact) and the lack of improvement, maybe for two days it only stopped jerking, the error went out shortly after it showed up, then the revolutions started to wave and the ignition fell out. The coil has been replaced with the old one and continues to tug. I learned that they can also be pusher glasses that have a problem with the oil and therefore tears. The oil was changed to 10w40 because it was previously pulls on. Checking the concentration on the pistons showed that it varied between 13.5 on two cylinders to 13.7 and 13.8 on the other two. Help to buy a new coil and candles or what to do?
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  • #2 16730366
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    Accurate diagnostics and reading errors and parameters, then you can combine whether it is a coil, candles or maybe something else.
  • #4 16730526
    Paulina95t
    Level 7  
    2.0 petrol + LPG, I will add that it tugs on a cold engine, i.e. before it switches to gas. After warming up, it runs well on gas and petrol.
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  • #5 16730723
    robokop
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    First, replace the coil with a new one, then look for where to liquidate the excess cash. What exactly was the error signature the diagnostic tool displayed?
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  • Helpful post
    #6 16730755
    Frost160
    Level 14  
    When it comes to the sagem coil, there is no need to wonder (although the fact that 200,000 were done so not enough). I had 3 such cases (with these motors) and each time the coil I installed meyle coils at a fairly good price and solid, the cheapest ones, do not buy because the problems are the same.
  • #7 16731228
    Paulina95t
    Level 7  
    And if it was, the coil should not jerk and on a warm engine?
  • #8 16731233
    Frost160
    Level 14  
    It can be really very different with this jerking.
  • #9 16731339
    robokop
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Paulina95t wrote:
    And if it was, the coil should not jerk and on a warm engine

    And if the HV leads pierce due to moisture, then the warm, drying out symptom will no longer be there. So?
    Anyway, if you know better, replace these tappets together with the timing to make it more expensive and we invite you again, you will inform us about the effects.
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  • #10 16739739
    Paulina95t
    Level 7  
    The replacement coil of the car continues to jerk: / will changing the oil to a less frequent one solve the problem?
  • #11 16740752
    robokop
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Coil replaced with new and good quality? What error is stored in the controller?
  • #12 16740956
    Paulina95t
    Level 7  
    Exactly the number I do not remember was the number According to the mechanic About the failure of the coil. New valeo coil plus candle replacement.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a Peugeot 307 experiencing jerking issues after starting on a cold engine, accompanied by an antipollution fault error linked to the ignition coil. The user replaced the ignition coil with a used one but noted no significant improvement, as the jerking persisted. Various suggestions were made, including performing accurate diagnostics to identify the root cause, considering the replacement of the ignition coil with a new one, and checking high-voltage leads for moisture-related issues. The user also mentioned the engine type (2.0 petrol + LPG) and expressed concerns about the tappets and oil quality. Recommendations included using quality replacement parts, specifically mentioning Meyle coils and Valeo coils, and the importance of checking error codes from the diagnostic tool.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Cold-start jerking with “Antipollution fault” on Peugeot 307 often traces to the ignition coil. One tech logged 3 cases; "there is no need to wonder"—install a quality new coil, not the cheapest. [Elektroda, Frost160, post #16730755]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps 307 owners quickly diagnose cold-start misfire and choose effective, budget-smart fixes.

Quick Facts

What does “Antipollution fault” usually indicate on a 307 with cold-start jerking?

It usually accompanies a misfire that raises emissions. Start with a scan, then verify live parameters before parts swapping. “Accurate diagnostics and reading errors and parameters” keeps costs down and fixes on target. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #16730366]

Why does it jerk only when cold but smooth out when warm?

Cold, damp conditions can let high-voltage leads or coil packs track to ground. As the engine bay warms and dries, the misfire fades. That creates a misleading “fixed when hot” pattern, even though the root cause remains. [Elektroda, robokop, post #16731339]

Will a new ignition coil actually fix this fault?

Often yes, if the coil is failing. “First, replace the coil with a new one,” then recheck codes and operation. Use a reputable brand rather than the cheapest option to avoid repeated faults. [Elektroda, robokop, post #16730723]

Are used coils or the cheapest new coils a false economy?

Yes. Members report repeat failures with bargain coils. One technician installed Meyle with solid results and warned against the cheapest options. Used coils carry unknown wear and hidden defects. [Elektroda, Frost160, post #16730755]

My mechanic mentioned hydraulic tappets (pusher glasses). Could they cause jerking here?

Given the cold-only misfire and warm-up recovery, focus on ignition first. Chasing tappets and timing adds cost and distraction. Address the coil and HV tracking before deeper mechanical work. [Elektroda, robokop, post #16731339]

Should I change oil viscosity to stop the misfire or the fault message?

No. The thread points back to ignition components and stored codes, not oil weight. Confirm a quality new coil and read the controller’s exact error before considering unrelated work. [Elektroda, robokop, post #16740752]

Do my compression numbers point to engine damage?

Reported compression of 13.5–13.8 bar across cylinders is even. That level supports good mechanical condition. It shifts suspicion to ignition, wiring, or HV tracking instead of valves or rings. [Elektroda, Paulina95t, post #16730343]

How should I diagnose this before buying more parts?

Follow three steps:
  1. Scan and note exact fault codes and freeze-frame data.
  2. Inspect coil and HV boots for carbon tracking or moisture marks.
  3. Test with a known-good coil and fresh plugs, then rescan. “Accurate diagnostics” saves money. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #16730366]

Why does it run well on LPG and petrol once warm?

Warm-up reduces condensation and moisture, improving insulation around HV components. Any cracked boots or marginal coils behave better when dry. The underlying ignition fault can still return with cold, damp starts. [Elektroda, robokop, post #16731339]

Which replacement coil brands were recommended in this case?

Valeo was installed, and Meyle was recommended for durability and fair price. The contributor also highlighted recurring issues with Sagem coils and warned against the cheapest units. [Elektroda, Frost160, post #16730755]

What information from the scan tool is most important to record?

Capture the precise error signature stored in the controller. Note cylinder-specific misfire counts and conditions when the fault set. This targets testing and confirms the fix after parts replacement. [Elektroda, robokop, post #16740752]

The fault disappeared then came back—what does that suggest?

That pattern fits intermittent HV tracking or moisture effects. Heat temporarily dries components, but the underlying leakage or crack remains. Address coil integrity and boots, then verify with a rescan. [Elektroda, robokop, post #16731339]
Generated by the language model.
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