FAQ
TL;DR: If your LOB TB61 outer cylinder/knob spins but won’t retract the latch, a 510 W drill "will manage" to drill out the latch case; start with small bits and step up. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16779126]
Why it matters: This FAQ shows DIYers how to open and restore a jammed TB61 without destroying the door, fast.
Quick-Facts
- Symptom: key and inside knob rotate continuously without moving the latch = internal linkage failure. [Elektroda, Mariuszek66, post #16770267]
- Common cause: two bolts that drive the latch can shear inside the mechanism. [Elektroda, mistrzszymon1, post #16770320]
- Non-destructive access tip: pull the inside knob or drill from the latch face to hook and retract the bolt. [Elektroda, marekhab, post #16770466]
- Direction matters: case discussed is a left-hand door opening toward you; plan tool approach accordingly. [Elektroda, Mariuszek66, post #16772065]
- Tooling: 510 W drill is sufficient; use bits from ~1.2–10 mm, stepping 5 mm then 8 mm to create an access port. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16779126]
Quick Facts
- Symptom: key and inside knob rotate continuously without moving the latch = internal linkage failure. [Elektroda, Mariuszek66, post #16770267]
- Common cause: two bolts that drive the latch can shear inside the mechanism. [Elektroda, mistrzszymon1, post #16770320]
- Non-destructive access tip: pull the inside knob or drill from the latch face to hook and retract the bolt. [Elektroda, marekhab, post #16770466]
- Direction matters: case discussed is a left-hand door opening toward you; plan tool approach accordingly. [Elektroda, Mariuszek66, post #16772065]
- Tooling: 510 W drill is sufficient; use bits from ~1.2–10 mm, stepping 5 mm then 8 mm to create an access port. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16779126]
How do I open a TB61 when the key and knob just spin?
Create access at the latch face, then retract the bolt manually. Drill a small pilot hole in the case, enlarge it, and hook or pull the latch back through the hole to open. This avoids door destruction when the internal linkage has failed. [Elektroda, marekhab, post #16770466]
Is drilling really enough power-wise for this job?
Yes. A 510 W corded drill is adequate for thin lock-case steel. Start with small bits and step up to enlarge the opening. As one expert noted, “The power of the drill ... will manage.” [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16779126]
What drill bit sizes should I use to access the latch?
Use a set from about 1.2–10 mm. Make several 5 mm holes close together, then open them with an 8 mm bit to form one access port for a hook or pick. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16779126]
Can I just cut the strike plate or latch with an angle grinder?
Yes. Cutting the tongue at the strike (staple) with an angle grinder frees the door. It’s fast but creates sparks and requires care to protect the frame. Replace the strike afterward with the new set. [Elektroda, 1repcaK, post #16773439]
Will cutting the strike prevent fitting a new lock in the same place?
No. The replacement lockset includes a new strike/“staple,” so you can reinstall hardware in the same footprint after opening the door. [Elektroda, mistrzszymon1, post #16770443]
Could the problem be broken internal bolts?
Yes. A common failure is the two internal bolts that move the latch shearing off, causing free-spinning keys and knobs. “Two bolts moving the latch were broken.” [Elektroda, mistrzszymon1, post #16770320]
What’s a quick non-destructive trick from inside?
Remove the interior knob to expose the spindle area. If accessible, manipulate or pull the latch via the exposed mechanism without cutting. This can save the door and trim. [Elektroda, marekhab, post #16770466]
How can hinge pins help me open older doors?
On older, split-pin hinges, knock out the axle (pin) to separate leaf and frame. Push the door back from the hinge side, then unscrew and replace the lock normally. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16774641]
What’s the catch with removing hinge pins?
It only works if there are no security locks (anti-lift pins) in the door edge. These pins engage the frame holes and block removal even with the hinge pins out. [Elektroda, 1repcaK, post #16774693]
Does the door handing or swing affect my approach?
Yes. The discussed case is a left-hand door opening toward you. Plan drill access from the latch face and tool angles based on that swing to avoid collateral damage. [Elektroda, Mariuszek66, post #16772065]
Where exactly should I “attack” the latch if the spring failed?
Target the rear tab of the zipper/latch assembly through a created opening. Slightly bend the zipper and unhook the bolt with a hook tool. “Attack this tab ... and undo the bolt.” [Elektroda, stomat, post #16784505]
What is the strike plate (also called a “staple”)?
It’s the metal plate on the frame that the latch tongue enters. Cutting or replacing this plate is acceptable when opening a failed lock, since new sets include a replacement. [Elektroda, mistrzszymon1, post #16770443]
Can I damage only the latch area and keep the door intact?
Yes. Focus cutting or drilling on the latch case or strike zone. After opening, remove the lock normally and fit a new set using the existing door prep. [Elektroda, Tommy82, post #16770386]
What’s a minimal-tool, 3-step way to drill and open the door?
- Drill 3–4 pilot holes (~5 mm) close together in the latch case face.
- Enlarge to ~8 mm to form a single access port.
- Insert a hook/pick to pull the latch back and open. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16779126]
Is using “dynamite” force necessary here?
No. This is a latch, not a vault. If the spring dropped, the bolt often moves freely once you reach the rear tab and lever it. Precision beats brute force. [Elektroda, stomat, post #16784505]
Why do the key and knob spin without catching?
Internal components have come loose or broken, decoupling the cylinder/knob from the latch. That’s why the latch won’t retract despite rotation. [Elektroda, Mariuszek66, post #16770267]
