[Solved] Persistent Game Crashes on Desktop PC: Intel Core i5-6400, AsRock H110M-HDV, Gigabyte Rx 470

Hello, My problem is caused by a constant crash to the desktop while playing with the message the program has stopped working due to a problem. Windows will close the program and notify you of the problem. The problem has been present for several months, in one game it crashes rarely, in another every hour and even for 10 minutes and in another not at all. I bought the computer in January and for about half a year everything was fine. From time to time there are also blue screens or unusual computer freezes (a red screen appears during the game without any information with stuttering sound). The specification of the comupter is:
CPU: intel core i5-6400
motherboard: AsRock H110M-HDV
Socket: LGA 1151
Chipset: Intel H110
Audio: Realtek ALC-887
graphics card: Gigabyte Rx 470 G1 Gaming
RAM memory: 2x 4GB GoodRam 2133 MHZ CL15
Hard Drive: Toshiba P300 1TB
power supply: Thermaltake TR2 450W
windows 10 64bit
I did a reinstall of the system, won the latest drivers, etc. unfortunately it did not help. If setting up the system did not help, then problems with the system / software can be ruled out?
I also checked the hard drive with HD tune pro, found no errors, bad sectors etc.
I'm going to do a Ram Memtest tomorrow. If everything is fine with the frame, I have no ideas.
Below I paste the hard disk test (disk is okay?) And the source of the dump problem.


If you need any more information, write to us and thanks in advance for any help

Check the disk with Cristaldiskifnfo SMART.

This is it?
edit: I paste it again, because you can't see everything on that one

SMART does not communicate anything disturbing. The disk is ok.

Turunt26 wrote:

I'm going to do a Ram Memtest tomorrow.

Perform test with bootable Memtest =>
www.memtest.org
Test each memory chip individually for 3 passes of the program. Post photos when finished.

Download and run HWiNFO =>
www.hwinfo.com
Leave it running in the background and play for 10 minutes. Then post the screen from the "sensors" tab.
If the computer shows BSOD or reboots, you will be able to read logs from the program.

Ok tomorrow I will post the results of the ram test. Still to be sure I will ask the memtest version is important? because you gave a link to the 2013 version, version v5.1 and on the internet I managed to find version 7.4.

I include ss from the HWiNFO64 program:

You can download and the newer one https://www.memtest86.com/
Start with this and if there are no problems (it looks the most on RAM), get a meter and measure the voltage.

Turunt26 wrote:

Still to be sure I will ask the memtest version is important?

Not relevant. The test is the same.

310artur wrote:

You can download and the newer one https://www.memtest86.com/
Start with this and if there are no problems (it looks the most on RAM), get a meter and measure the voltage.

I don't have a meter at home, but I'll see if I can get something done. There is no other way to exclude the power supply?
If the power supply was to blame, the symptoms would not be more serious, because now it looks like that so far about 3/5 works without any problems, 1/4 from time to time will crash a message with an error to the desktop and only a few are not playable where it crashes every hour and in one even every 10 minutes. It also happened that for the first half or even almost the entire game it was okay, then every hour.
In addition, for a few months I had 4 death screens (2 blue with a message and 2 red where nothing was written) It crashes both in new games and a little old ones (the oldest from 2012), so if the power supply was to blame, it would not be released to the desktop, but completely system, or at least all games.

For a while, I did a memtest. For several hours it went through 5 times and detected nothing. I'll post a picture afterwards if necessary.
In the morning I was in a hurry and forgot to take out one ram bone and did a test on two, but since it did not detect any problems, it probably was not a problem. It is recommended to do separately, just so that you do not have to scan again to detect which bone is released?

In conclusion, it is possible to rule out ram and hard drive. By the way, does the problem necessarily lie in the equipment? Can the above-mentioned problems be caused by something related to the software, etc. that cannot be resolved by reinstalling the system?

If the problem does not occur forever, it is not likely to be a system problem.
Unless when reinstalling you go back to the faulty program / driver.

You can check the power supply by substituting another one. All in all, this is the best method because the meter may show nothing if the changes are fast and not very frequent. It happens that something happens in power supplies with dynamically changing load (or in games that load the equipment strongly but with time change).

RAM tested enough.

Run HWiNFO in sensor only mode. Then run a 10-minute power supply test in the OCCT. After the test, give the screen from HWiNFO.

So that's how I did the occt test. I turned on the power supply test for 10 minutes. After about 4 minutes, the program turned itself off. Something like this popped up:
And at OCCT, something like this:

And in the HWiNFO program in the sensor only mode, these results after 4 minutes:


Anyone know what this may be about? It turns out that something is wrong if it does not withstand the 10-minute test or I did something wrong I don't know, maybe I set something wrong in this program?
edit I did the test again setting the time to 15 minutes (just in case, because before that I had idle periods set to 1 and 5 minutes and the total time to 10 minutes, so the program could close after 4 minutes), but the second time I set the time to 15 minutes, the program it should close after 9 minutes and it closed after 5 minutes, when gpu temperatures started to approach 86 degrees, so i still have no idea if it was supposed to be like this or something wrong with the power supply / graphics card. I am counting on someone who knows each other and will explain to me if this test shows anything.

In the program, you set the thresholds at which the test is to be interrupted. He interrupts your test because the graphics reach 85 degrees.
How are your graphics connected to the power supply? Any spells mary adapters? The power supply for the measurement with the meter, the plugs powering the card to be checked are the beginning. I would also check the cleanliness of the heat sink on the graphics or turn up the fan speed there because something strange that at 85 degrees is not yet accelerating.
As for the OCCT test itself - the temperature limit on the graphics card can be raised to 95, but only for a moment - if you feel constantly hot, you have something wrong. In normal use, I'd rather keep it below 80 degrees or at least try

I checked carefully and the message the program stopped working ... appears when the temperatures do not exceed even 70 degrees, so this is not the source of the problem. I have graphics connected to the power supply. And the fans in the watman are automatically set to the maximum speed of 2020, but this won't solve the problem because the temperatures are good during the game.
The problem seems to get worse, because earlier you can still play normally, now it's practically impossible. Previously, in the worst case, it would go off every hour and now it's good if it lasts 30 minutes. It only lasted 4h once, when I updated the drivers to the newest and turned on vertical sync and locked at 30fps, but then the problem returned.

Either way, it won't solve this problem on its own. I will give the computer for diagnostics to some service. There, I hope that they will find out which component is damaged. Then I will give this unfortunate part for warranty and after installing a new one, I hope that the problem will stop

So I am writing again, because unfortunately the problem has not been solved. The components have been checked and it turns out that they are all functional. At home, I changed the power strip, power supply cable, connected the computer in a different place, even replaced the mouse, keyboard and speakers and nothing else crashes. Maybe someone else has an idea what the problem is, since it is not a system, components, cables, socket, etc.; D

I no longer believe in such miracles. Something must have been badly tested on the site. Since the problem only appears in games, 70% of the graphics card has a problem and 30% of the power supply.

Try it differently. Run the test in the cart and see what happens. If the computer lasts 15 minutes, the card is rather functional. Just keep an eye on the temperatures because the test wagon will not stop you - you have to stop yourself as if the temperature is too high.

If the test will endure, tire the CPU - you can run the test on the CPU for 15 minutes in OCCT. Or you can skat the processor in the IntelBurnTest program - 10 runs per standard is enough - but here you also have to watch the temperatures and stop the test if necessary. It is an extreme program for quick tests without any security measures.

If you pass both tests, I bet on the power supply. Then there will be nothing else but a gauge in hand and check.

Are these programs absolutely safe? I wouldn't want to burn a graphics card or processor that is not even a year old

As for the power supply, some time ago I realized that the graphics card has a recommended power supply with a minimum power of 500 V In. Are those missing 50 V W might be a problem? I also read that the power supply loses power over time. In addition, will the insufficient power of the power supply be a problem during the cart test, since then the graphics card works at full capacity?
Maybe a stupid question; D, but I'd rather make sure I don't burn anything

The use of these programs will not deprive you of your warranty and since it is a year old, it has a warranty.
Are they safe? For efficient equipment, they can be damaged. But it is rather not common.
If you are in control of the temperatures, nothing should happen. You have a power supply from the white list - it should not surprise you.
Do not be guided by the power given by the card manufacturer. They provide an overestimated power in case someone wants to power their cards with crap power supplies that have power inflated on the label.

The problem is not solved yet, I'm closing for now.