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BMW E46: Soft Clutch Pedal Issue, Difficulty Shifting 1st Gear & Reverse, Slave Cylinder Venting

sebenicz97 13107 11
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  • #1 16787620
    sebenicz97
    Level 7  
    Posts: 52
    Rate: 6
    Hello, is it normal for the clutch pedal to go too lightly? I have a comparison with 320d and there is palpable resistance. I had the clutch changed from half a year ago, since then I have a problem with driving in 1st gear and reverse, and this soft clutch pedal, it seems like it has not declutched properly. If I keep it pressed for longer, it will come in lightly and when I hold it, the gears fall like butter, let go and repeat the entertainment .. What could be wrong? The slave cylinder is vented, dry and there are no leaks. I will add that when I quickly pump the clutch it gets hard and when I release it I immediately "flak". I don't want to exchange a half car for free
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  • #2 16788221
    piotrek gti_abf
    Level 14  
    Posts: 85
    Help: 7
    Rate: 36
    You wrote about the slave cylinder, what about the clutch pump? Is it dry? Maybe it's slowly ending its life.
  • #3 16788288
    sebenicz97
    Level 7  
    Posts: 52
    Rate: 6
    piotrek gti_abf wrote:
    You wrote about the slave cylinder, what about the clutch pump? Is it dry? Maybe it's slowly ending its life.

    The pedal pump is also dry, I checked

    Maybe the slave cylinder or the pump does not hold the pressure on the piston? Just how to check it
  • #4 16794128
    tadeusz03
    Level 10  
    Posts: 22
    Help: 2
    Rate: 14
    From what you write, you have air in the hydraulic system. Sometimes it is very difficult to bleed the clutch. The leader in this was the volvo 850. If I can't bleed by pumping the pedal, I do it like this. 1- I release the vent 2- I blow evenly into the tank and when the liquid flies, I close the vent. Sometimes I repeat this action 2-3 times. Primitive but effective. At the workshop I have a rubber cone with a hose for this. You can pump through the compressor but very low and even pressure.
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  • #5 16794143
    szymitsu21
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 3702
    Help: 342
    Rate: 1288
    Venting from the slave to the expansion tank is another effective method.
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  • #6 16794164
    tadeusz03
    Level 10  
    Posts: 22
    Help: 2
    Rate: 14
    AMEN. It is also an effective method but it can create a problem for someone who has never done it because the vent is thin and pumping through a very thin hose is troublesome. The method is very effective.
  • #7 16794929
    sebenicz97
    Level 7  
    Posts: 52
    Rate: 6
    I have already done the syringe method, i.e. pumping towards the container. I vented again by pumping the clutch, no bubbles sit anymore, unless they "hide" somewhere by some miracle. The clutch works very lightly, I don't know, maybe it should be in gasoline. When moving off, it can cover the kennel so much that the jack shakes, it's hard to feel the car. I no longer have the strength to do it, the more that I thought that if I replace the clutch it will be a goofy glance, p
    The most I'd like to deal with this blocking of one because in the city it is tiring
  • #8 16795038
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    Posts: 27411
    Help: 1403
    Rate: 6379
    sebenicz97 wrote:
    When moving off, he can fill the kennel so much that the jack shakes

    What is your engine
    Secondly, see how you have the slave stroke.
  • #9 16796489
    sebenicz97
    Level 7  
    Posts: 52
    Rate: 6
    Quote:

    What is your engine
    Secondly, see how you have the slave stroke.


    N42B20, today I noticed a strange thing, when I push the clutch pedal a little harder, I feel a few millimeter resistance at the end, which when pressed, the one comes in lighter. I wonder why at the end there is such a harder jump, instead of on the whole clutch pedal and then the gears go reasonably well.
  • #10 16797556
    piotrek gti_abf
    Level 14  
    Posts: 85
    Help: 7
    Rate: 36
    Or maybe it's just self-adjusting clutch pressure and is incorrectly set. Maybe to dismantle the gearboxes and check if everything is ok, dismantling the gearbox in BMW is the moment.
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  • #11 16798501
    sebenicz97
    Level 7  
    Posts: 52
    Rate: 6
    piotrek gti_abf wrote:
    Or maybe it's just self-adjusting clutch pressure and is incorrectly set. Maybe to dismantle the gearboxes and check if everything is ok, dismantling the gearbox in BMW is the moment.

    I don't have access to the channel on a daily basis so it's not that easy. I have already dismantled the crates 2 times because the first time I assembled the clutch I did not pay attention to the even tightening of the clamp, I had to undo the clamp again and twist it evenly, slowly. In new sets you do not have to look at it because it is blocked by such a "spider".
    This is the SAC self-adjusting clamp as you write.
    I am also thinking about breaking this CDV valve at the slave cylinder, maybe it will help something.
  • #12 16939947
    spinex
    Level 17  
    Posts: 297
    Help: 10
    Rate: 44
    Something on the bank wrongly done. I had similar symptoms before replacing the clutch - previous ones were ending. After the exchange as he took away. But what is badly done is hard to say now - you have to undress.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a BMW E46 experiencing a soft clutch pedal and difficulty shifting into 1st gear and reverse. The user reports that the clutch was replaced six months ago, but the pedal feels unusually light compared to a 320d. Various suggestions are made, including checking the clutch pump for pressure retention, potential air in the hydraulic system, and methods for bleeding the clutch. The user has attempted several bleeding techniques, including the syringe method, but the issue persists. There are considerations regarding the self-adjusting clutch pressure and the possibility of a malfunctioning CDV valve at the slave cylinder. The user expresses frustration with the ongoing problem and the complexity of accessing the clutch assembly for further inspection.
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FAQ

TL;DR: E46 soft clutch + hard 1st/reverse usually means trapped air; pressure-bleed and repeat 2–3 cycles. “Primitive but effective.” [Elektroda, tadeusz03, post #16794128]

Why it matters: Clear, repeatable fixes help you restore normal pedal feel and smooth gear engagement on BMW E46 daily drivers.

Quick-Facts:

Quick Facts

Why is my BMW E46 clutch pedal soft and 1st/reverse hard to engage?

Air remains in the clutch hydraulic circuit. Normal pedal pumping may not purge it. Use pressure bleeding from the reservoir, then close the bleeder as fluid flows. Repeat the cycle 2–3 times to clear stubborn bubbles. [Elektroda, tadeusz03, post #16794128]

How do I bleed the E46 clutch when pedal pumping fails?

Try a controlled pressure-bleed from the reservoir.
  1. Open the bleeder at the slave.
  2. Apply low, even pressure to the reservoir cap.
  3. Close the bleeder as fluid exits, and repeat 2–3 times. “Primitive but effective.” [Elektroda, tadeusz03, post #16794128]

What is reverse bleeding and does it work on the E46?

Reverse bleeding pushes fluid from the slave back to the expansion tank. It’s very effective on trapped air. Watch for the thin vent nipple, as connecting a very thin hose can be fiddly. This is a proven alternate to reservoir pressure-bleeding. [Elektroda, tadeusz03, post #16794164]

My pedal gets hard after quick pumping, then immediately goes soft. What’s that indicate?

That behavior points to air compressing in the system or a component losing pressure after each stroke. Quick pumping temporarily firms the pedal, but the feel collapses to “flak” once you pause. Address bleeding first before replacing parts. [Elektroda, sebenicz97, post #16787620]

Could the clutch master cylinder be bad even if it looks dry?

Yes. External dryness doesn’t rule out internal bypass/leakage. A weakening clutch pump (master cylinder) can cause soft pedal and poor disengagement. Diagnose after a thorough bleed, then consider master replacement if symptoms persist. [Elektroda, piotrek gti_abf, post #16788221]

How do I check if the slave cylinder stroke is sufficient?

Observe the slave pushrod travel while a helper depresses the pedal. Inadequate stroke suggests air, failing master, or slave issues. Correct bleeding first, then inspect hardware and mounting. This quick visual check helps confirm whether the fork is moving enough. [Elektroda, Strumien swiadomosci swia, post #16795038]

What is a SAC clutch and can misadjustment cause these symptoms?

SAC is a self‑adjusting pressure plate. If set incorrectly during installation, you can get incomplete disengagement and shifting difficulty. The remedy may require removing the gearbox to verify and reset or replace the assembly. [Elektroda, piotrek gti_abf, post #16797556]

I feel a few millimeters of extra resistance at the end of pedal travel—is that normal?

A slight last‑stage resistance can coincide with full release. If 1st and reverse engage easier only past that point, you may still have marginal travel from air or setup issues. Eliminate air first, then reassess. [Elektroda, sebenicz97, post #16796489]

Should I remove the BMW E46 CDV to improve clutch feel?

Deleting the Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) can sharpen engagement feel, but it won’t fix bleeding or misadjusted SAC issues. Treat CDV as a refinement, not a cure. Complete hydraulic service first, then decide on CDV removal. [Elektroda, sebenicz97, post #16798501]

I replaced the clutch and it still shifts badly—what now?

If shifting worsened or didn’t improve after replacement, something was assembled or set incorrectly. Re‑bleed the hydraulics, then inspect the clutch pack, release system, and SAC setting. In some cases, gearbox removal is necessary to verify work. [Elektroda, spinex, post #16939947]

Does engine type (e.g., N42B20) change the clutch troubleshooting steps?

Core hydraulics are similar across E46 variants. Whether N42B20 or 320d, start with thorough bleeding, confirm slave stroke, then evaluate the master, slave, and SAC setup. Symptoms and fixes remain consistent across these engines. [Elektroda, sebenicz97, post #16796489]

How many bleed attempts should I plan before replacing parts?

Plan on 2–3 pressure‑bleed cycles to clear stubborn air. Some platforms are notoriously hard to bleed. Once pedal feel stabilizes, reassess engagement. Only then move to component replacement if issues persist. [Elektroda, tadeusz03, post #16794128]
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