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Setting Up VUT 350 PE EC Recuperator in 130m2 House & 60m2 Attic: Speeds & Anemometer GM816 Usage

marlowe27 14892 15
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  • #1 16788352
    marlowe27
    Level 18  
    Posts: 585
    Rate: 56
    VUT 350 PE EC recuperator, house, ground floor 130m2 and about 60m2 attic. Unfortunately, I have no contact with the man who installed recuperation. I have to set everything up myself.
    Currently, I borrowed a benetech Gm816 anemometer and I run on anemostats measuring m / s values. My 1st question in the engineering menu in the submenu "performance adjustment according to speed" I have to set 3 speeds, what values should these three stages have? In the user guide I have for:

    1 speed 40% / 40%
    2 speed 70% / 70%
    3 speed 99% / 99%

    leave yes?

    I will add that on the third stage, the recuperator makes a lot of noise, although it is in the boiler room and it does not bother us, but when entering the boiler room there is already noise
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  • #2 16812938
    Arbiter
    Level 15  
    Posts: 407
    Help: 3
    Rate: 100
    in my opinion, the setting of the anemostats is not super important. Choose experimentally depending on what you want to have in which room. I unscrew the mushrooms in most rooms so that they do not resist,

    what you typed in the points was probably the fan speeds on each gear. The air handling unit has two fans: supply and exhaust, usually in the menu you can set how to operate. It's safest to put them evenly. In the menu you can also regulate how many% is supposed to blow on which gear. what the device manufacturer predefines is OK. For today's weather, I recommend 2 gear, cold winter 1, and if someone gets cold in the toilet or in the kitchen, 3 runs for 15 minutes
  • #3 16813360
    marlowe27
    Level 18  
    Posts: 585
    Rate: 56
    I have a 2-story building, I do not know, I am just learning this recuperator and, according to my amateur logic, I thought that if the openings were open everywhere, more will go where it is closest, where faster access and everything will go there, and screwing the anemostats will allow me to unfold it air distribution force.
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  • #4 16819771
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2821
    Help: 76
    Rate: 669
    Generally speaking, you do not regulate the flow by twisting the valves. Similar cable resistances from the distribution box to the diffusers are designed, and any length differences are compensated by bends.
    A separate issue is the balancing of supply and exhaust. You use it 99% of the time in first gear and the noise it makes in the rest is irrelevant. Set yourself, for example, 100 m3, i.e. 30%, and if you have separate voltage regulation on both fans, set them so that the supply and exhaust are balanced. This means that in a tight house, in no wind weather, the foil stuck in the open door opening will hang freely. Obviously, changing temperatures is re-regulating, but you will have a roughly balanced supply and exhaust resistance. Better this than nothing.
  • #5 16820445
    marlowe27
    Level 18  
    Posts: 585
    Rate: 56
    Thanks for the advice.
    As for these 100m3, it probably has to do with the ventilation area I have. During the weekend I measured and I have 450 m3. For now, I have set:
    1 mode from 8.00 am to 4.00 pm and this mode has 20% power, i.e. 70 m3, I'm counting correctly?
    2 mode from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. and this mode has 40% power, i.e. 140 m3
    3 mode from 22.00 to 23.30 and this mode has 90% power (it is time for all household members)
    and from 23.30 to 8.00 am there is 2 mode

    as for balancing the exhaust and supply, I have it set equally.
  • #6 16820686
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2821
    Help: 76
    Rate: 669
    The fact that you are set equally has almost no relation to the balancing of the supply and exhaust, because your setting does not take into account the differences in the supply and exhaust resistance as well as the air intake and exhaust.
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  • #7 16822325
    marlowe27
    Level 18  
    Posts: 585
    Rate: 56
    And is it not so that I have an inappropriate selection of a recuperator for my cubature?
    The name of the recuperator indicates that it is intended for rooms of 350 m3, I have 457 m3. Isn't it better in my case to choose a larger one and run with lower efficiency?
  • #8 16827030
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2821
    Help: 76
    Rate: 669
    I don't think it really matters. For example, I ordered a bigger one due to the fact that they have better company motors and lower energy consumption.
  • #9 16836445
    marlowe27
    Level 18  
    Posts: 585
    Rate: 56
    And listen, reading the instructions, it is talking about setting the temperature in the recuperator pipes and outside, what temperature should this be set?
  • #10 16837009
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2821
    Help: 76
    Rate: 669
    The temperature is not set. You can read it.
    The air intake temperature depends on the conditions outside. Extract air from the room temperature. Air supply and exhaust from the recuperator efficiency, flow balance and ventilation intensity (how many m3 / h)
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  • #11 16839112
    marlowe27
    Level 18  
    Posts: 585
    Rate: 56
    Thanks for explanation.
    I have the last question, my recuperator is suspended from the ceiling, has a drainage to the sewage system, and yet the screws and in some other places water drips onto the floor. I tightened the screws, but the water, despite being drained, still finds new places to condense on the floor, is it the fault of improper installation?
  • #12 16839999
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2821
    Help: 76
    Rate: 669
    Leaking and leaking. Or poor insulation and condensation on thermal bridges. I bet on the former.
  • #13 16841073
    marlowe27
    Level 18  
    Posts: 585
    Rate: 56
    I'm in technical matters, but I think I managed to fix the water leak myself ;)

    The recuperator was evenly suspended from the ceiling, at its bottom, on a plate like this, water collected more and more, and these drainage channels are on the side of the plate. It was enough to slightly tighten the recuperator to the ceiling on one side and lower it on the other, so that the water could flow down to one side of the plate (where there are openings to the sewage system).

    By the way, producers could make water drainage holes in the bottom of this plate, then the problem would never arise
  • Helpful post
    #14 16841204
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2821
    Help: 76
    Rate: 669
    Well that's an installation error. Badly leveled. Some recuperators are installed with a slope and not horizontally.
  • #15 16841329
    marlowe27
    Level 18  
    Posts: 585
    Rate: 56
    Thank you very much for your help, you have a lot of knowledge about recuperation.
    And do you know heat pumps too? ;)
  • #16 16841589
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2821
    Help: 76
    Rate: 669
    What knowledge? I haven't even installed my recuperator yet. He is waiting on the table and I am drilling holes. :)
    With heat pumps, I have experience heating with an air conditioner for the ninth winter as the main source of heat and I recommend it to everyone.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around setting up a VUT 350 PE EC recuperator in a 130m² house with a 60m² attic. The user seeks guidance on configuring the device's performance settings using a Benetech GM816 anemometer. Initial recommendations suggest setting three fan speeds at 40%, 70%, and 99%, with adjustments based on room requirements. Users emphasize the importance of balancing supply and exhaust airflow, noting that the recuperator's noise level increases at higher speeds. Concerns about the appropriateness of the recuperator's capacity for the user's 457m³ space are raised, with suggestions that a larger unit may be more efficient. Additionally, issues with water leakage from the unit are discussed, attributed to potential installation errors. The conversation concludes with advice on ensuring proper drainage and leveling of the unit.
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FAQ

TL;DR: For a 457 m3 home, keep supply/exhaust even, use gear 2 daily, and balance flows—“You do not regulate the flow by twisting the valves.” [Elektroda, Jan_Werbinski, post #16819771]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIY owners of VUT 350 PE EC set speeds, balance airflow, and stop condensate leaks without guesswork.

Quick Facts

What speed settings work best for everyday use?

Use the manufacturer’s equal supply/exhaust defaults. Run gear 2 for typical days, gear 1 in colder weather, and gear 3 as a 15‑minute boost when needed. This keeps comfort stable and noise low while ensuring adequate air changes. [Elektroda, Arbiter, post #16812938]

Should I leave 40/70/99% as the three speeds?

Yes. Those presets are safe and effective if supply and exhaust are set evenly. Adjust by season and occupancy: gear 2 most days, gear 1 in cold spells, and gear 3 for short boosts in kitchens or bathrooms. [Elektroda, Arbiter, post #16812938]

Do I balance air by twisting anemostats (diffuser ‘mushrooms’)?

No. Ductwork is designed for similar resistances; bends compensate for length. “You do not regulate the flow by twisting the valves.” Balance the system through fan control and verification, not diffuser throttling. [Elektroda, Jan_Werbinski, post #16819771]

How do I balance supply and exhaust without instruments?

Start with about 30% fan for ~100 m3/h. Set supply and exhaust to achieve neutral pressure. Verify with the foil test: in a tight house, a foil sheet in a doorway should hang still in calm weather. [Elektroda, Jan_Werbinski, post #16819771]

Quick How‑To: balance my VUT 350 PE EC today?

  1. Set both fans near 30% to target ~100 m3/h.
  2. Adjust supply/exhaust until a doorway foil hangs freely on a calm day.
  3. Save as gear 1; use higher gears for boost only. [Elektroda, Jan_Werbinski, post #16819771]

Are equal fan percentages the same as balanced airflow?

No. Equal percentages ignore different resistances on intake, supply, extract, and exhaust paths. Balance is the result of testing and adjustment, not mirrored settings. [Elektroda, Jan_Werbinski, post #16820686]

Is my VUT 350 PE EC undersized for a 457 m3 house?

Not necessarily. One user chose a larger unit for better motors and lower energy use, but sizing depends on target flow and pressure. If your unit meets airflow quietly at normal gears, it’s acceptable. [Elektroda, Jan_Werbinski, post #16827030]

What temperatures should I set on intake/supply sensors?

None. “The temperature is not set. You can read it.” Outdoor air follows weather, extract follows room temperature, and supply/exhaust depend on exchanger efficiency and flow balance. [Elektroda, Jan_Werbinski, post #16837009]

Why is speed 3 so noisy, and how should I use it?

High gear increases fan RPM and duct noise. Use it as a timed boost (about 15 minutes) for events like cooking or bathroom use. Keep everyday operation on gear 2 for comfort and lower noise. [Elektroda, Arbiter, post #16812938]

Why is water dripping even though the drain is connected?

Likely leaks or poor insulation creating thermal bridges. Condensate can escape joints or form on cold surfaces. The poster’s assessment: “Leaking and leaking. Or poor insulation... I bet on the former.” Inspect joints and insulation. [Elektroda, Jan_Werbinski, post #16839999]

How do I fix condensate pooling under the unit?

Ensure the unit is slightly sloped toward the drain. The OP solved leaks by re‑leveling so water flowed to the drain holes. Some recuperators require an intentional slope, not a perfectly horizontal mount. [Elektroda, marlowe27, post #16841073]

Installer left it level—should it be tilted from factory spec?

Yes, some models are installed with a slope. A flat install can send water to the wrong edge and cause leaks. Re‑set the level to direct condensate to the drain, per unit design. [Elektroda, Jan_Werbinski, post #16841204]

Can I copy the OP’s time‑of‑day schedule as a starting point?

You can. Example: 20% (~70 m3/h) from 08:00–16:00, 40% (~140 m3/h) from 16:00–22:00, 90% boost 22:00–23:30, then 40% overnight. Tweak for occupancy and air quality. [Elektroda, marlowe27, post #16820445]

Will open diffusers pull more air to the closest rooms?

Air favors lower‑resistance paths, but systems aim for similar branch resistances. Bends often compensate for length. Control with fan balancing, not diffuser throttling. [Elektroda, Jan_Werbinski, post #16819771]

Is using an anemometer at diffusers useful for setup?

Yes, for relative checks, but balance the whole system first. Use the foil neutrality test and fan percentages to set baseline, then fine‑tune rooms as needed. [Elektroda, Jan_Werbinski, post #16819771]
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