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[Solved] Renault Trafic 2 2009 Battery Charging Issue: Alternator, Fuse, Cables & 14.4V / 12.8V Voltage

leon55 26685 15
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  • #1 16800963
    leon55
    Level 9  
    hello I have a problem renault trafic 2 2009 r with charging the battery, while running out of battery I thought it was cold so it fell down, I replaced it with a new one but it turned out to be discharged. On the second day I thought that the alternator light was off, I fired on the battery it showed 14.4 Volts I warmed up the engine was still charging the battery I turned off I fired again 12.8 Volts I tried several times not charging, the alternator fuse is good at the heel on the fuse is. On the second day, again, I don't know if the indicator is damaged, I cleaned the power cables except for the one coming to the engine, the alternator has a plug with 2 cables
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  • Helpful post
    #2 16801308
    nikusert
    Level 41  
    Hello .
    If the charge indicator does not light, it may be difficult to start the alternator. Check the wires at the alternator (for example, the wires are not broken), I think it may be a traditional alternator with a regulator without COM. You need to specify how many pin the alternator power supply has (pin marking) , or specify the type of alternator, it will explain a lot.
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  • #3 16801354
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    The indicator will light up when it is 10V. Alternator rather to be repaired
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  • #4 16801407
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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  • #5 16801605
    zibi581
    Level 22  
    Brushes may end and this symptom, check the regulator.
  • #6 16801721
    robokop
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Bieda z nędzą wrote:
    The rotor winding probably breaks, the rotor winding breaks in these valeo alternators.

    It is not so much that it breaks, but the loose carcass inside breaks it.
  • #7 16801727
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #8 16802437
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    If it has 110-120A
  • #9 16802546
    milejow

    Level 43  
    leon55 wrote:
    On the second day I thought that the alternator light was off

    Disconnect the ankle from the alternator and give ground to this cable, as the indicator light will come on (of course, the ignition is on, then alternator and have it repaired.
    Company Account:
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    Mętów 99, Lublin, 20-388
  • #10 16802977
    leon55
    Level 9  
    Thanks for the hints tomorrow evening I'll start unscrewing the plastics to get to the alternator
  • #11 16803556
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #12 16812289
    leon55
    Level 9  
    hello, the alternator has a cube with two orange and white cables, the orange voltage is one volt less than on the battery, while the white one is 0.5V. I shorted the cables to ground, but the battery indicator did not light, I took out the meter, maybe I will unscrew it tomorrow, unless it is possible to check without unscrewing the charging lamp counter.
  • #13 16812468
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #14 16814494
    zibi581
    Level 22  
    Wait a minute, maybe after 50 posts you can fix it, maybe sooner the electrician will see?
  • #15 16842862
    leon55
    Level 9  
    In the end I got some time I pulled down the meter there, unfortunately the electronics itself is a led diode controlled by transistors. I checked the cable to the meter with the meter but there was no connection to the alternator, I started to review the installations. After unscrewing the front lamp from the driver below the fuse box, I found the connector where the cable from the meter came in. After a careful look, it turned out that the white cable towards the alternator for about 0.5 cm was green after it fell apart, I soldered, the charging lamp came on but not the stop lamp on the meter went off and the battery did not charge after firing after the cable was soldered off, the ignition lamp was not lit normally the stop lamp went off. Today I had to drive a car about 100km charging 14.5V-13.8V so differently the longer the less after re-firing. Maybe I'll turn the alternator on Saturday
  • #16 18010241
    leon55
    Level 9  
    hello I finally got some time it turned out that the regulator on the alternator was whacked after installing a new one, everything returned to normal. Thanks for the help
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a battery charging issue in a 2009 Renault Trafic 2. The user initially replaced a discharged battery but continued to experience problems, with voltage readings fluctuating between 14.4V and 12.8V. Responses suggest checking the alternator, specifically the wiring and regulator, as well as the alternator's internal components like brushes and rotor windings. The user discovered a damaged cable leading to the alternator, which was repaired, and after replacing the alternator's regulator, the charging system returned to normal functionality.
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FAQ

TL;DR: On a Trafic II, 14.4 V vs 12.8 V readings flag intermittent alternator excitation; “it showed 14.4 Volts” then none. [Elektroda, leon55, post #16800963]

Quick Facts

How do I quickly diagnose a no‑charge condition on a Renault Trafic II (2009)?

With ignition ON, unplug the alternator control plug and ground the indicator wire. The charge lamp should light. If it does, the cluster and wiring can drive the alternator; the alternator needs repair. If it doesn’t, trace the lamp circuit and connectors toward the fuse box. [Elektroda, milejow, post #16802546]

What battery voltage should I see when it is charging correctly?

Expect mid‑14 V right after start, tapering toward high‑13 V as the system warms or load changes. In-thread measurements showed 14.5–13.8 V after driving and restarts. Values stuck near 12.6–12.8 V with engine running indicate no charge. [Elektroda, leon55, post #16842862]

Why won’t the battery light come on and the alternator won’t start charging?

If the charge indicator does not light, the alternator field may not be excited. Inspect the small wires at the alternator for breaks and confirm the alternator type/pins. A non‑COM regulator still needs that lamp feed to kick in. [Elektroda, nikusert, post #16801308]

What commonly fails inside the Valeo alternator on this van?

Forum experts note the rotor winding gets damaged by a loose internal carcass, leading to intermittent or lost excitation. “The loose carcass inside breaks it.” That failure mimics bad wiring or a weak lamp circuit. Bench inspection confirms the fault. [Elektroda, robokop, post #16801721]

Could worn brushes or a faulty regulator cause intermittent charging?

Yes. Short brushes or a failing regulator produce on‑off charging, normal voltage one start and no charge the next. Inspect and replace the regulator/brush pack together when wear is evident. This simple service often restores stable voltage. [Elektroda, zibi581, post #16801605]

What ultimately fixed the charging issue in this thread?

Replacing the alternator regulator solved the problem. After fitting a new regulator, the system charged normally and the warning behaviors disappeared. This confirms the regulator as the root cause in that case. [Elektroda, leon55, post #18010241]

How many amps is the Renault Trafic II alternator?

Typical fitments include approximately 110–120 A units, depending on engine and equipment. This rating supports base electrical loads and moderate accessories. Higher-output versions may exist on other trims, but 110–120 A is a common range. [Elektroda, andrzej20001, post #16802437]

How do I test the charge indicator (D+ lamp) from the alternator plug?

Unplug the alternator. With ignition ON, ground the indicator wire from the harness. The battery lamp should illuminate. If it lights, the cluster and wiring are OK and the alternator is suspect. If not, trace the circuit toward the fuse/connector block. [Elektroda, milejow, post #16802546]

I measure drops on the alternator control wires (orange ~1 V lower, white ~0.5 V). Is that a red flag?

Yes. Those drops point to resistance in the small‑signal wiring or corroded joints. Track the harness and inspect connectors near the front lamp/fuse box area. Any green corrosion or broken strands will cripple the excitation signal. Repair restores lamp and charge. [Elektroda, leon55, post #16812289]

Where are hidden connectors that often corrode on the Trafic II?

Behind the driver-side front lamp, below the fuse box, there is a connector where the cluster’s charge-lamp wire joins the alternator lead. In the thread, the white wire was green and crumbled; soldering restored lamp function and charging. [Elektroda, leon55, post #16842862]

After a long drive, my charging voltage falls from 14.5 V to about 13.8 V. Is that normal?

Yes. The observed behavior was 14.5 V initially, tapering to ~13.8 V with heat and lower demand. That is expected with temperature-compensated regulators. If it later sticks near battery voltage, diagnose excitation wiring or the regulator. [Elektroda, leon55, post #16842862]

At what low system voltage does the battery lamp finally illuminate?

In this discussion, an expert noted the indicator will light around 10 V. That is an edge-case behavior and means you might not see the lamp until the system is already very low. Don’t rely solely on the lamp. [Elektroda, andrzej20001, post #16801354]

What if the alternator fuse is fine but the van still doesn’t charge?

A good main fuse doesn’t rule out excitation faults. The OP had a good fuse, intermittent 14.4 V, then only 12.8 V. The fix came from repairing the small control wire path and replacing the regulator. Check both before swapping the alternator. [Elektroda, leon55, post #16800963]

Is it safe to drive a long distance with intermittent charging?

It’s risky. The OP managed about 100 km while voltages fluctuated between 14.5 V and 13.8 V after restarts. That can strand you if excitation fails. Address wiring corrosion and the regulator before planning longer trips. [Elektroda, leon55, post #16842862]

Can I fix this at home? Give me a simple 3-step how‑to.

  1. With ignition ON, ground the alternator’s lamp wire; confirm the dash lamp lights.
  2. Inspect and repair the connector near the driver-side headlamp/fuse box for green corrosion.
  3. If wiring is good, replace the alternator regulator/brush pack. [Elektroda, milejow, post #16802546]
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