The Hormanna sectional garage door after replacing the springs does not work

I have a problem with Hormann's gate. The spring broke in the gate after 11 years of use, and therefore both springs were replaced with new ones. Left 722 law 723.
Spring tension for 9.5 turns according to the nameplate on the gate.
The problem is that after such a tension the gate should move slightly down and up and with the disconnected drive should stabilize about 1m from the ground (according to information from the company in which I bought the springs). Unfortunately, this is not happening. After fastening the drive, the drive opened the gate but it did not close. Drive off from overload when trying to lower. Evidently, something is wrong because the gate opened, it was heard loud like a rattle from the right drum on which the cord is wound. I think something is blocking there.
With free springs and an unbonded connector of the rod on which the springs are, after releasing the lock, each of the drums rotates slightly, while as the drums are fastened with a link rod this unblocking does not allow rotation. To turn the bar, both reels must be manually unlocked.
Where to look for a problem?

And you unlocked the "emergency brake" in case of spring breaks? I do not know about your brothers but usually it's a gear with wedge-shaped teeth and a kind of "hammer".

Where is the brake? I understand that these are not the elements by which the drum is manually unlocked.
By the way - how should the bottom screw be attached from the spring holder to the drum? It's about this screw with a cylindrical head, not a semicircular one.
A brass sleeve is to her. First, I mounted it by inserting the sleeve together with the screw and on the other side I screwed the nut. However, the gate did not open at all, because the head of the screw was locked together with the mechanism of manual releasing the drum. Then I inserted this screw without the sleeve, and the sleeve I gave from the side of the nut. Now the screw head moves in the cutout of the element from the drum, but such fixing causes the spring to be really fixed on one M6 screw.

This is not a "safety brake" just a lock. The idea is to prevent the gate from breaking with a broken spring. When "winding" new springs, the first revolutions must be manually unblocked (then it is held under spring pressure). The locking mechanisms are different, but all are characterized by unlikely simplicity.

I will try to stretch again. For clarity about what's going on with this screw I add two photos. It's about the smaller M6.
Now it seems to be better because the screw holds the body of the spring (this casting with the sheet visible in the photo.) There is a notch in this plate in the range that this body can move in. Only now the gate can not be opened, because it is blocked by these rack inside the drums.

The author did not write what exactly the type of gate is. In any case, according to Hormann's instructions, it is possible to block the spring break protection by means of a cotter pin. Below is a reverse action drawing - pulling out the pin.
I'm afraid that the whole thing was badly put together. Maybe some photos?

There is no cotter here.
Subject resolved. Information #tmtch has guided me how to set it.
Before tensioning the springs, set the mechanism so that the screw visible in the picture was above this wing of the manual unlocking the gate.
Thanks to everyone for the advice.
I close the subject.

I have already solved the problem with the drive as it appears from the previous post, but I have another problem.
During the repair of the drive, as I did it for the first time and did not quite know how to do it, and started to unscrew the plates with the drive links.
To lift a gate without a drive I had to dismantle it for individual segments.
As I was at this stage, I thought that you could wash them well.
After assembling the segments together and repairing the drive now as the gate rises and leaves, it makes a lot of noise. This noise is like a crackle, it's hard to describe.
I diagnosed where it comes from. Well, each segment on the upper edge has a sipe sealing the top of its segment and the next one with which it is connected by hinges. As the gate opens and the position of the higher segment plane changes, this sipe at the moment of release from the upper segment of the crackles rubs against the upper panel, issuing an unpleasant sound.
The height of this sipe is about 1-2mm.
I wonder why this is happening. I do not know how these segments were originally assembled by the assembly company.
I assembled the segments simply by lowering one to the other, which meant that the higher one dropped to the bottom panel. Perhaps some distance (dilation) between the panels should be used. The hinge adjustment clearance is about 2-3mm. Maybe if this lamella did not get stuck in the bottom edge of the top panel it would be better.

Perhaps some editor Hormann would have said.

Maybe he said by some montażysta Hormanna. [/ Quote]

Not only the editor Hormann but each of the guys who assemble the gates would say about it. There are many details that must be observed when installing the gate so that it goes correctly. But is this the appropriate forum for learning the assembly of gates ...

This is not about assembly training, because I'm not going to do it professionally. I care only for the advice on how the individual segments are made together - without slack down on one another, whether there is any space to prevent this unpleasant creaking of the panels.

No special distances are applied. It happens that the hinge axis of the panel slightly increases the gap between panels, but with light panels. If you creak and creak, you have three options: replace the gaskets with new ones, spray with a special preparation (ladies before the preparation from "40" at the end) or live with it, they will eventually get there and that's it.
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I have rather light panels, it's hard to say. As for the exchange, it is probably there that the lamellas are unchangeable because it looks like part of the panel and in the same color.
It's already dark, but maybe tomorrow I'll be able to take some picture to let you know what's going on.
As I washed these panels after demolition, wiped with a silicone preparation in spray, spraying a little on the cloth, which rubbed the edges of the panels (both bottom - recess and top). The treatment was to reduce the friction of the panels, but you can see that it did not help, or maybe even worsened the case.