FAQ
TL;DR: If your tilt‑up garage door rubs near fully open, focus on the last ~15 cm of travel; “the problem is only in the last phase of opening.” Check centerline mounting, guide alignment, and bent spring arms. [Elektroda, sanetrajakub, post #16995558]
Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIYers and installers quickly diagnose frame‑rub, skew, and opener alignment issues on tilt‑up/hinged garage doors.
Quick Facts
- Symptom hotspot: rubbing often appears in the final ~15 cm before fully open. [Elektroda, sanetrajakub, post #16995558]
- Even small off‑center mounts (≈1 cm) can tilt the door path. [Elektroda, rafcio_21, post #16994329]
- Typical install age in the case: ≈2 years before adding a drive. [Elektroda, sanetrajakub, post #16994023]
- Proven fix from the thread: straighten a distorted spring arm linking to the counter‑spring. [Elektroda, sanetrajakub, post #16996999]
- Alignment check: guides should share the same level/drop and equal diagonals (cross‑measure). [Elektroda, Marek J., post #16995812]
How do I fix a tilt‑up garage door that rubs the frame near fully open?
Verify opener is centered, confirm both ceiling guides share the same level, and cross‑measure diagonals. Inspect spring link arms; a bent arm can pull the panel sideways. In the thread, straightening a distorted spring arm fully resolved the rub. “Fix the mechanical cause first, then fine‑tune alignment.” [Elektroda, sanetrajakub, post #16996999]
Why does rubbing only happen in the last ~15 cm of opening?
Small geometry errors show up at end‑of‑travel when linkages reach maximum leverage. The user observed smooth travel until the last ~15 cm, when the panel curved into the frame. That pattern points to off‑axis pull or a deformed linkage rather than debris. Focus inspection on link arms and bracket centering. [Elektroda, sanetrajakub, post #16995558]
Can a 1 cm off‑center opener bracket really skew the door?
Yes. An opener fastened off the centerline pulls the panel unevenly, which tilts the door and can cause frame rub. As one expert put it, if fastening is not perfectly in the middle, the gate goes slightly crooked. Re‑center the trolley bracket before other tweaks. [Elektroda, rafcio_21, post #16994329]
Should the drive be mounted exactly on the door’s center axis?
Yes. Check the drive is mounted on the door’s axis to prevent cutting or binding in the final stage of opening. Centering reduces lateral load on guides and hinges. After centering, re‑test full travel with the operator disengaged to feel for mechanical drag. [Elektroda, rafcio_21, post #16994630]
How do I verify guide alignment and crossover (diagonals)?
Measure both ceiling guides for equal level or drop. Then cross‑measure from the left opening corner to the right guide end, and vice versa. The diagonals should match. If not, adjust mounts or add stiffening before recalibrating the opener. “Check diagonals… The result should be the same.” [Elektroda, Marek J., post #16995812]
My guides are mounted only at the ends. Could flex be the cause?
Yes. End‑only mounting allows guides to move with the door, changing clearances at the top of travel. Add intermediate stiffening or brackets to lock the guide geometry. Re‑level after stiffening, then retest the cycle for smooth clearance. [Elektroda, sanetrajakub, post #16994846]
What photos or video help others diagnose my door problem?
Record the full open and close cycle, focusing on the last 20 cm. Include close‑ups of the center bracket, spring link arms, and both guides. Side shots showing the panel’s approach to the frame are especially useful for spotting skew. [Elektroda, rafcio_21, post #16994075]
Could dirty or failing bearings in the guides be to blame?
It’s possible. Verify bearings roll freely and that guides are clean. Debris can force bearings to work harder, adding resistance near end‑of‑travel. Clean the tracks, then recheck by hand with the operator disengaged to isolate mechanical drag. [Elektroda, rafcio_21, post #16995062]
What measurements should I compare when the door looks square but still rubs?
Compare guide levels and the two diagonals between opening corners and guide ends. Unequal diagonals indicate skewed geometry, even if bubble levels seem fine. Correct the structure first, then re‑teach opener limits if required. [Elektroda, Marek J., post #16995812]
How do I re‑center a slightly off‑axis opener the right way?
- Disengage the opener and place the door mid‑travel.
- Measure and mark the panel’s true center and the header’s centerline.
- Reposition the trolley rail and bracket to that line, then tighten and test by hand.
Afterward, re‑engage and run a full cycle. [Elektroda, rafcio_21, post #16994630]
What does “tilting” or hinged garage door mean here?
It’s a one‑piece door that pivots on side arms and springs. These doors are less rigid than sectional types and can “swim” side‑to‑side under load. That characteristic makes precise guide alignment and centered drive mounting critical to prevent rubbing. [Elektroda, Marek J., post #16995812]
The levels look perfect, but rubbing persists—what’s the hidden culprit?
Check the spring link arms for bends or twists. In the thread, a distorted arm pulled the panel off‑track, causing contact only near fully open. Straightening that arm eliminated the issue immediately and permanently. [Elektroda, sanetrajakub, post #16996999]
Is 320 cm between rail centers acceptable if both ends match?
Equal spacing alone may not guarantee clearances. The user measured 320 cm center‑to‑center at mid‑rail and ends, yet rubbing appeared late in travel. That indicates geometry elsewhere—like diagonals or a bent arm—was the real cause. Verify those next. [Elektroda, sanetrajakub, post #16995558]
Do I need side sliders or plastic wear guides to prevent metal rub?
Many hinged doors use side or wing sliders made of plastic to stop metal‑on‑metal contact. If yours lacks them, consider adding wear guides after fixing alignment. They reduce noise and protect paint during minor deflections. [Elektroda, Marek J., post #16995812]
What’s an edge case that can fool even experienced installers?
A door can pass level checks and still rub because a single spring arm is slightly bent. The symptom appears only at the top of travel. Correcting that hidden deformation fixes the path without changing guides or opener settings. [Elektroda, sanetrajakub, post #16996999]
After centering and cleaning, it still binds at the end—what next?
Temporarily disengage the opener and hand‑cycle while watching both frame clearances. If the panel drifts left or right, recheck diagonals and arm straightness. If it stays centered by hand, revisit opener centering and bracket height. [Elektroda, Marek J., post #16995812]
