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Opel Astra H Interior Lighting: Unusual Left Power Consumption Despite Bulb Removal

Łukasz_163 12675 11
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  • #1 16833521
    Łukasz_163
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 2
    Hello, I have a problem with the left power consumption in Astra h. When parked, the power consumption is at the level of 0.21-0.23A. After checking the fuses, it turned out that after removing the 5A fuse responsible for lighting the interior of the cabin, the current consumption dropped to 0.08-0.1A, so let's say that this value could still be acceptable. Wanting to find out where the cause is exactly, I pulled out all the bulbs from the inside of the vehicle to check if any bulb did not short-circuit and it turned out that after removing them, the consumption value did not change and is still 0.21-0.23A, while after removing the fuse, the value from drops right away. If someone has encountered a similar problem or knows what else could be checked, please let me know.
    It is strange for me that after removing all the bulbs there is still a left power consumption, maybe there is a short circuit on the cables but I do not know how and where to look.
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  • #2 16833570
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    Posts: 27411
    Help: 1403
    Rate: 6379
    Doesn't your car start in the morning?
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  • #3 16835738
    Łukasz_163
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 2
    with everyday driving, it fires normally on the meter in the morning 12V, so a little bit, but as soon as one day is not fired, unfortunately it will not start. The battery is new.
  • #4 16835752
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    Posts: 27411
    Help: 1403
    Rate: 6379
    Łukasz_163 wrote:
    it is true that the meter in the morning is 12V

    How much did you expect?
    Secondly, you have to plug the ammeter, close the car and wait a while and then read the measurement.
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  • #5 16835763
    Łukasz_163
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 2
    properly the battery should be 12.5V. Of course I waited for the first two minutes it goes down from 1.2A until I stop at around 0.21-0.23
  • #6 16835967
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    Posts: 27411
    Help: 1403
    Rate: 6379
    And unplug the clamp and after a while fasten through the ammeter, does some relay turn off sometimes?
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  • #7 16852796
    mirynda
    Level 10  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 1
    Was the topic resolved?
    I am asking because I would like to connect, because I have the same problem, also Astra H and the current consumption of 0.20A after a few minutes, after 10-15 minutes it goes down to about 0.16A and unfortunately it stays that way.
    From myself I can only add that it was even worse before - consumption 0.5A, and the rear ceiling lamp turned out to be the culprit (surprisingly, I had a factory defect and two plates were short-circuited from time to time), so in addition to removing the light bulbs, I would recommend unplugging the entire lamp and recheck.

    As for the consumption of 0.2A, I read that connecting the radio 'via the ignition' can eliminate this problem, although I will be able to check it myself only at the weekend.
  • #8 16900142
    SimonTe
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I have exactly the same problem as described by Łukasz_163. Did you manage to solve it?
    I found on
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2729091.html#13157033
    a description of a similar problem and apparently the power consumption does not occur when the car closes with the key. I haven't tested it yet, but when I test it, I'll let you know.

    But maybe someone else managed to fix the problem.
  • #9 16902036
    rob4028
    Level 25  
    Posts: 621
    Help: 66
    Rate: 470
    Do you have a CD30 radio in this car? and the car is from '05 -07?
  • #10 16902179
    SimonTe
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    :) I have already fought with the radio and I was consumed by electricity. It took him a year to insert a CD and then it did not consume electricity. Then it also stopped working and I replaced the company one a year ago.

    Now something is wrong with this interior lighting. And at 100% nothing is lit. I locked myself in the garage and turned off the light. If something was on fire I would see it.
    The following behavior is also strange.

    1. I disconnect the clamp.
    2. I plug in the meter - that is, I close the circuit.
    3. Current consumption about 80-60 mA - a fairy tale for me.
    4. I press on the key to open and close.
    5. The lights go out.
    6. Current consumption approx. 200 - 210 mA.

    If I remove this fuse from the lighting, then in point 6 after the measurement it is 60 mA.

    I do not know about others, but in my case, when starting on a weak battery, the symbol "car with this key" will light up in a moment, that it is like a lambda probe.

    When it came to the radio, I had it (Before I did not mention it). The funniest thing was before, when I had an error from the lambda due to a weak battery, it was enough to remove the fuse from the radio for a month and the error itself disappeared. Now I don't know what it is.

    I'll fight it again. I'll pull out this fuse at the most, hard.
  • #11 16903180
    Łukasz_163
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 2
    I took apart the rubbers at the joints and at the door and it stopped charging somewhere, although I did not find any abrasions. You just have to wait a while with the meter connected for about 5 minutes and suddenly the consumption from 0.24A drops to 0.02A.
  • #12 16906265
    rob4028
    Level 25  
    Posts: 621
    Help: 66
    Rate: 470
    Łukasz_163 wrote:
    I took apart the rubbers at the joints and at the door and it stopped charging somewhere, although I did not find any abrasions. You just have to wait a while with the meter connected for about 5 minutes and suddenly the consumption from 0.24A drops to 0.02A.

    Writes well, check the grommets in the rear doors.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around an unusual power consumption issue in the Opel Astra H, specifically on the left side, where the current draw remains at 0.21-0.23A even after removing all interior bulbs. Users suggest checking for potential short circuits in the wiring and recommend monitoring the vehicle's electrical system with an ammeter after disconnecting the battery. One user noted a similar problem was resolved by addressing a faulty rear ceiling lamp. Others mentioned that the power consumption decreases significantly when the lighting fuse is removed, indicating a possible fault in the interior lighting circuit. Suggestions include examining grommets in the rear doors and ensuring that relays are functioning correctly. The issue may also be related to the vehicle's radio system, particularly in models from 2005-2007.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Opel Astra H interior-lighting fuse can cause 0.24A draw; "wait ~5 minutes with the meter and it drops to ~0.02A." Root causes include door grommet wiring and a faulty rear dome lamp; measure correctly, isolate the lighting circuit, and inspect harnesses. [Elektroda, Łukasz_163, post #16903180]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps Astra H owners diagnose a parasitic drain that flattens a new battery in a day.

Quick Facts

What standby current is normal on an Astra H after it falls asleep?

Owners report about 20–80 mA when the car truly sleeps. One case settled near 0.02 A after five minutes. Readings near 0.2 A point to a fault on the interior-lighting circuit or wiring. Verify sleep before judging numbers. [Elektroda, Łukasz_163, post #16903180]

Why does the current only drop after several minutes?

Modules need time to enter sleep. "You have to plug the ammeter, close the car and wait." Expect an initial higher draw, then a step-down after a few minutes. If it never drops, suspect the interior-lighting circuit or a stuck module. [Elektroda, Strumien swiadomosci swia, post #16835752]

How do I correctly measure parasitic draw on Astra H?

Use this 3-step method:
  1. Connect the ammeter in series at the battery negative clamp.
  2. Close all doors, lock the car, and wait ~5 minutes.
  3. Note current, then pull the 5A interior-lighting fuse to compare. If the draw falls sharply with the fuse out, isolate lamps and harnesses next. [Elektroda, Łukasz_163, post #16903180]

Which fuse is linked to the unusual drain?

The 5A fuse for interior/cabin lighting. With it installed, users measured 0.21–0.23 A. Removing it dropped draw to about 0.08–0.10 A, indicating the fault lies on that circuit. [Elektroda, Łukasz_163, post #16833521]

Can a faulty lamp cause high draw even if all bulbs are removed?

Yes. One user had ~0.5 A from an intermittent short inside the rear ceiling lamp’s circuit board. Unplugging the entire lamp, not just bulbs, eliminated the drain. "Two plates were short-circuited from time to time." [Elektroda, mirynda, post #16852796]

Could door grommet wiring be the culprit?

Yes. Inspect and flex the wiring looms in door grommets, especially rear doors. After checking grommets, one case showed the draw dropping from ~0.24 A to ~0.02 A after the vehicle timed out. [Elektroda, Łukasz_163, post #16903180]

Does locking with the key vs. remote change the drain?

It can. One owner observed 60–80 mA before lock, then ~200–210 mA after lock; removing the lighting fuse returned ~60 mA. Using the key was suggested as a test in a related note. [Elektroda, SimonTe, post #16902179]

Is the CD30 radio a known factor in these drains?

Yes, but it may be a separate issue. A failing CD30 once consumed power until a CD was inserted, then was replaced. The current thread’s persistent draw traced to interior lighting and wiring, not the head unit. [Elektroda, SimonTe, post #16902179]

My battery shows 12.0 V in the morning. Is that acceptable?

Users expected around 12.5 V at rest. At 12.0 V plus a 0.2 A drain, a parked car may fail to start after a day. Fix the drain first, then recheck voltage and state of charge. [Elektroda, Łukasz_163, post #16835763]

What symptoms indicate the drain is serious?

If the car starts daily but fails after sitting one day, the standby draw is excessive. That behavior paired with 0.21–0.23 A suggests the interior-lighting circuit is holding modules awake or shorted. [Elektroda, Łukasz_163, post #16835738]

Why does current jump to ~0.2 A after I lock the car?

Locking can wake body electronics or a fault on the lighting circuit. One case showed 60–80 mA before locking and ~200–210 mA after. Pulling the lighting fuse restored the lower value, confirming the circuit’s role. [Elektroda, SimonTe, post #16902179]

What quick isolation steps should I try on the lighting circuit?

Unplug the entire rear ceiling lamp assembly, not only bulbs. Inspect connectors for heat marks. Then check door-ajar switches and loom sections inside door grommets for chafing. Re-test sleep current after each step. [Elektroda, mirynda, post #16852796]

How long should I wait before taking a final reading?

Wait at least five minutes with the meter connected and the vehicle secured. In the documented fix, current fell from ~0.24 A to ~0.02 A after that timeout. Patience reveals true sleep current. [Elektroda, Łukasz_163, post #16903180]

Could a sticking relay be causing intermittent draw?

Yes. After disconnecting and reconnecting the clamp through an ammeter, listen for relays and watch for a delayed drop. A relay that fails to release can hold a circuit active and sustain the draw. [Elektroda, Strumien swiadomosci swia, post #16835967]

What if removing the 5A lighting fuse fixes the draw but I still need interior lights?

Use the fuse only as a diagnostic. After confirming the lighting circuit is the source, repair the rear lamp or wiring in door grommets. Restoring proper sleep returned current to ~0.02 A without removing the fuse. [Elektroda, Łukasz_163, post #16903180]

Will a 0.16–0.20 A standby draw drain the battery overnight?

Yes, it risks a no-start after one day parked. One owner reported a fresh battery that failed to start after a day at these levels. Eliminate the interior-lighting fault to prevent repeat failures. [Elektroda, Łukasz_163, post #16835738]
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