Opel Astra H 2005: Experiencing High Power Consumption and Short Circuit Symptoms

Hello, for about a week I have been the owner of the Opel Astra H from 2005, the car worked great until today, namely, in the morning I get into the car, try to light and here only knocking and knocking does not turn off, the controls do not fade, so I decided to examine the case, I took the meter and I'm starting to search as much as I can (my field is rather rtv) I noticed that the battery is equal to 12v and should probably have a little more, so it comes out that something has discharged it, I check the power consumption on the disconnected minus terminal and it turns out that I have somewhere short circuit. The power consumption at rest is 0.350mA, I opened the fuse box under the hood and began to pull out all the fuses checking if the consumption drops, unfortunately nothing positive happens. The relays in the trunk have also been checked, apparently a common problem is the storage compartment closure sensor so I took out the bulb to be sure, but the consumption is the same all the time.

Ladies and gentlemen, where to look further for the cause?

Disconnect the alternator along with the starter and check the power consumption.
No extra frills in the car?

geryon wrote:

I try to smoke and here only knocking and knocking turns off nothing, controls do not diminish

The lights do not dim, so there is no short circuit. The battery voltage is higher than 12V when the engine is running. I suggest looking for damage around the starter since it does not turn.

in the first post an error occurred because it is 0.350A and not 0.350mA, after initial inspection I connected the battery and turned it off once, it is evidently discharged.
If this is not a short circuit, why such power consumption at rest? The car has no extra goodies, a clean poor version.

I'm not a professional in this industry, probably colleagues from this department will tell you more, nevertheless, based on your experience with the astra, I suggest you repeat the measurement of the current consumed but wait about 2 minutes with the device connected. Such consumption can take place after connecting the battery, because the computer and drivers start up. After these approx. 2 min, the power consumption should drop to the correct level.

How old is the battery?

handyman - I just read that I should wait about 10 minutes and only then examine - the next thing is pulling out one fuse may not necessarily help, because one circuit can have e.g. 2 fuses. I am also not a specialist in this category but I am trying to do something myself the car will burn at most

Unfortunately, I don't know which year the battery is, I'll try to track it somewhere.

12V * 0.35A = 4.2W as far as I remember and count correctly - what can a 4.2W bulb pull in a car?

Trunk lighting checked?

Maybe something actually draws current from the battery. I suggest confirming by taking a measurement after 10 minutes about which you write with the ammeter included in the circuit.
I do not agree, however, what you write that the starter does not turn and also do not dim the lights. Whenever I had a dead battery, an attempt to start would cause the lights to go out. Well, unless the third generation astra somehow controls this start-up, or you just have a damaged automatic machine that starts the starter after the ignition is energized. If not, I bet on a weak (aged or damaged) battery, or lack of it, or low charging, which can be seen after starting the engine and measuring the voltage on the battery clamps

Dude, you probably sold a car with a swapped battery. The symptoms described (starter contact clicking) indicate a discharged or worn out battery. Maybe you have a faulty alternator in your car. If you did the measurement correctly with an ammeter, then you either waited too long for the electronics to calm down, or you actually have a "thief" of electricity. "Stealing" energy of this size and in a fairly short time will not discharge a functioning battery.

Gentlemen, when it comes to not dimming controls, a similar situation was also in Honda Accord 2005, there the controls did not dim and there was no shooting.

But to the point I made the measurement, it turned out to be correct again, namely 0.05A which is the correct consumption at rest - either the reason was the bulb in the glove box or the measurement was wrong, I bet on the latter, I did not wait long enough for the computer and the whole electronics will calm down.

So after locating or resolving the fault I started to charge the battery with a rectifier, admittedly one of the cheaper ones on the market but always some

Aku was charging from 1.5 hours on the rectifier indicator was number 2 on a scale of 6 and so constant for a long time, I decided to do the test. and light a toy car. Unfortunately, nothing at all when turning the key in the ignition position does not have strange sounds so I think that the electronics are starting, but there is no power to turn off at all.

Due to the fact that I am still not sure, but almost sure, that it is the fault of the battery, I just call it an old name, this is the name of an old junk is a question for you, is there a way to find out 100% without buying another because it costs a couple pennies, and spending no sense is a bit of a shame.
I found markings on the battery, maybe one of my colleagues can decode the date of production or the date of purchase, assembly.



I would like to add that after charging the battery, the battery shows 13.4 v, although the charger does not show full charge.

What is the voltage after switching on the starter?

Toy car managed to start.
The situation was:
Battery charged to approximately 13.08v checked without load. The voltage in the car dropped a little but it was over 12V.
When the key is turned for firing, the starter turns, the voltage drops to around 10.5-11v. I would like to add that he did not want to fire the first time a little bit cleaned up but eventually fired up. which does not change the fact that something in the car can be replaced. Either aku or starter? I do not consider the matter closed because I would not like the situation to repeat itself.

geryon wrote:

is there any way to find out 100% without buying another

Have the battery service company checked. They will accurately determine his condition.
How do you tan the engine, what is the voltage on the clamps? During the measurement, turn on the lights and blower to the max.