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Honda Civic VI Liftback: Pioneer 1400UB Radio Memory Reset Issue - Lack of 12V Power

monuai 6498 13
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  • #1 16870218
    monuai
    Level 15  
    Posts: 333
    Help: 5
    Rate: 29
    Hey - how are you ?. I hope I can get to the cause from the forum.
    I enclose a description of the fuses, what not to look for

    I'm not sure how to ask a specific question, so I'll describe everything from the beginning.
    Since the purchase of the car (Honda Civic VI Liftback), the radio has no memory. After removing the key, the radio resets. The radio is a pioneer 1400ub. According to the manual, I read that from the radio the yellow first wire is just from the memory - to which you need to bring 12v without a key.

    So, taking the meter in my hand, I started looking for a cable that will be 12v without a key in the ignition. Unfortunately nothing. There is 12v on one, but when the key is in the ignition. There's one insulated there red wire - but there is no tension at all.
    Next ... in the cube all the wires to the loudspeakers are connected, so I only have 3 - black (mass), yellow (12v with a key) and red which has no tension.

    After a moment's thought, I thought maybe the red wire that's 12v without a key . Unfortunately there is no tension at all.

    When looking for fuses by description, I noticed a fuse there - it is "ECM, clock, radio memory". I thought that the problem was solved - that this fuse was blown. It turned out to be operational (there is a short circuit). Not only that, the clock in the car generally doesn't work either. And to make it not so cool, 10A is inserted there, even though it should be 7.5A.

    Is there anyone able to guide me what I can check next, where can I look for the cause?

    [/url] Honda Civic VI Liftback: Pioneer 1400UB Radio Memory Reset Issue - Lack of 12V Power

    I looked for another manual, and here is that fuse correctly marked 7.5 with the number 32

    http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/Civic5D/pdf/62st320.pdf
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  • #2 16870284
    mar-ilo
    Level 12  
    Posts: 103
    Help: 9
    Rate: 35
    You must replace the yellow wire at the radio cube with the red wire. Yellow is the memory (backup) of the radio and it must be powered continuously so that the radio does not lose its settings. Both of these wires are + but one is constant, the other from the ignition switch - currently, rather, every radio (or at least the majority of them) on these cables has connectors that allow them to be quickly changed, because the problem like yours is quite common.
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  • #3 16870304
    monuai
    Level 15  
    Posts: 333
    Help: 5
    Rate: 29
    My friend probably didn't read on
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    #4 16870381
    Boral
    Level 13  
    Posts: 160
    Help: 5
    Rate: 16
    Hello, I had the same problem with the Mazda 323f and the electrics are similar to the Honda civic, for me the blue wire with a red stripe is responsible for maintaining the memory and it also powers the watch, after the initial measurements with the meter it turned out that there is a break in the circuit somewhere, so I dismantled all plastics under the steering wheel, I disconnected the entire wiring harness leading to the radio and it turned out that there is tar on the connecting wires, the cables were pressed in some small sleeve, of course I threw this sleeve out and simply soldered these cables.
  • #5 16870400
    monuai
    Level 15  
    Posts: 333
    Help: 5
    Rate: 29
    I just had a suspicion that there was a circuit break somewhere. Sometimes 1-2 dashes appear on the watch, but then they disappear. As if there is actually no correct contact somewhere.

    I also thought that through this 10A fuse somewhere the wire could burn out?

    Ok, so I will check the circulation inside thoroughly. Thanks for the hint, Pzdr
  • #6 16870409
    Boral
    Level 13  
    Posts: 160
    Help: 5
    Rate: 16
    And try, buddy, to measure whether there is voltage on this fuse from memory backup, if it is as I wrote that the problem probably lies in the place where the wires are connected in the bundle.
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  • #7 16870547
    mojepetro
    Level 21  
    Posts: 319
    Help: 51
    Rate: 91
    You made the description very confusing, but I'll try to ask.
    monuai wrote:
    According to the manual, I read that from the radio the yellow first wire is from the memory - to which you need to bring 12v without a key [b]

    Indeed, on the yellow from the radio - it should be constant + 12V, on the red + 12V "keyed", black must go to the weight of the car (-12V).
    Are all 3 cables connected to the installation?
    What cable shows + 12V after inserting the key?
    monuai wrote:
    One is 12v but when the key is in the ignition
    What cable is it (color), is it connected to the radio - what color?
    monuai wrote:
    There is one red [b] isolated wire - but there is no tension at all.
    What does it mean insulated? Nowhere connected? Connected to the radio (what color) or for installation? Does the voltage show 12V after turning on the radio?
    monuai wrote:
    I noticed a fuse there - It is "ECM, clock, radio memory". I thought that the problem was solved - that this fuse was blown. It turned out to be operational (there is a short circuit).

    The fuse is complete, but is there voltage on it (12V in relation to the mass before and after the fuse? I mean fuse No. 10 in the box under the hood.
    monuai wrote:
    the clock in the car generally doesn't work either.
    What does it mean generally not working? The clock does not work, does not hold memory and resets like a radio? It comes with 12V /
    Please also check if there is 12V on the cigarette lighter socket - constantly or "on the key"?
  • #8 16870553
    monuai
    Level 15  
    Posts: 333
    Help: 5
    Rate: 29
    But it doesn't really matter now I think ...

    yellow - + 12v with key
    red - probably there should be +12 constant, but there is no tension on it
    black mass.

    The main problem is that I miss DC on this one wire. And the fuse is intact.
  • #9 16870630
    mojepetro
    Level 21  
    Posts: 319
    Help: 51
    Rate: 91
    monuai wrote:
    And the fuse is intact.
    Check that there is voltage on it (before and after the fuse). Just in case - with and without a key.
    PS
    Please answer my questions from the previous post.
  • #10 16870637
    monuai
    Level 15  
    Posts: 333
    Help: 5
    Rate: 29
    There is voltage before and after the fuse. There is no voltage on the cable, regardless of whether there is a key or not. Is the engine fired or not. \
  • #11 16871179
    Ireneo
    Level 42  
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    A break in the installation, the faster it will be to give a new plus, of course, through the fuse.
  • #12 16875984
    mojepetro
    Level 21  
    Posts: 319
    Help: 51
    Rate: 91
    Ireneo wrote:
    A break in the installation, the faster it will be to give a new plus, of course, through the fuse.
    This was what I was getting at. It would be closest to the cigarette lighter. But for this you need to work with the author of the topic, who has probably ceased to be interested in it.
  • #13 17342372
    monuai
    Level 15  
    Posts: 333
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    Rate: 29
    Hi,

    So I can let go of the plus from the lighter and use it to keep the memory? You say through a fuse? (only that the lighter is probably already on the fuse)
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    #14 17342380
    Ireneo
    Level 42  
    Posts: 7823
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    Rate: 2457
    monuai wrote:
    Hi,

    So I can let go of the plus from the lighter and use it to keep the memory? You say through a fuse? (only that the lighter is probably already on the fuse)

    If it is fixed there you can without a fuse.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a memory reset issue with a Pioneer 1400UB radio installed in a Honda Civic VI Liftback. The user reports that the radio loses its memory after the ignition key is removed, indicating a lack of continuous 12V power to the yellow wire, which is supposed to maintain memory. Various responses suggest checking the wiring connections, particularly the yellow and red wires, and ensuring that the yellow wire receives constant 12V. Some users recommend replacing the yellow wire with the red wire, which is keyed, and checking for circuit breaks or issues with the fuse. Others suggest using the cigarette lighter's power source to maintain the radio's memory, provided it is fused correctly.
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FAQ

TL;DR: To stop a Honda Civic VI/Pioneer 1400UB from resetting, the yellow lead must see constant 12 V—“on the yellow from the radio it should be constant +12V.” Trace the break or supply a fused constant feed from the lighter. [Elektroda, mojepetro, post #16870547]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIYers quickly restore radio memory and clock power without guesswork.

Quick Facts

Why does my Pioneer 1400UB reset every time I remove the key?

The radio’s yellow lead needs constant 12 V for memory. Your Civic’s feed to that lead is missing or broken, so presets and the clock reset when ignition power drops. Confirm yellow = constant 12 V and red = keyed 12 V at the radio connector. [Elektroda, mojepetro, post #16870547]

Which wire is constant power and which is ignition on a Civic/Pioneer hookup?

At the radio: yellow must have constant +12 V, red has +12 V only with the key (ACC/ON), and black is ground. If constant 12 V is absent at yellow, memory won’t hold. Do not swap unless both feeds exist and test correctly. [Elektroda, mojepetro, post #16870547]

Can swapping the yellow and red wires fix the memory problem?

Swapping only helps when both feeds exist but are reversed. Your case lacks a constant feed entirely, so swapping won’t restore memory. First restore a true constant 12 V to the yellow lead before considering a swap. [Elektroda, mar-ilo, post #16870284]

How do I test the radio-memory fuse correctly?

Measure voltage on both fuse legs to chassis ground, with and without the key. If you see 12 V on both sides yet no constant 12 V reaches the radio’s memory wire, the break lies between the fuse block and the radio. [Elektroda, Boral, post #16870409]

My fuse tests good, but no 12 V reaches the radio’s red/yellow memory wire—what now?

You likely have a harness break. Check continuity from the fuse output to the radio connector. If open, repair the joint or run a new fused constant feed to the radio’s yellow memory wire. [Elektroda, monuai, post #16870637]

Where are common failure points causing the memory feed to open?

Owners found splices in the loom under the steering column with degraded connectors or tar-like sleeves. Remove the trim, inspect the splice block, and re-make the joint by soldering and insulating. “The cables were pressed in a small sleeve… I soldered these cables.” [Elektroda, Boral, post #16870381]

Is it safe to pull constant 12 V from the cigarette lighter to feed radio memory?

Yes, many route the radio’s yellow memory lead to the lighter’s constant 12 V. If that lighter circuit is fixed and already fused, you can connect without adding another inline fuse for the memory feed. [Elektroda, Ireneo, post #17342380]

Do I need an additional fuse if I run a new constant feed?

If you tap a fused constant source like the lighter, no extra fuse is needed. If you run a standalone wire from the battery or another unfused point, add an inline fuse close to the source to protect the wire. [Elektroda, Ireneo, post #16871179]

What fuse rating protects the clock/radio-memory circuit in this Civic?

The position is labeled for 7.5 A. The owner observed a 10 A inserted there, which is incorrect. Restore the correct 7.5 A rating to match the circuit’s design protection. [Elektroda, monuai, post #16870218]

Could the wrong fuse size damage wiring?

Yes. Using a 10 A where 7.5 A is specified can allow excessive current before blowing, risking harness damage. The owner suspected an overfused slot may have contributed to a burned wire. Replace with the correct 7.5 A. [Elektroda, monuai, post #16870400]

My dash clock shows a few dashes then dies—related to the radio memory issue?

Yes. The clock and radio memory share the constant 12 V feed. Intermittent dashes suggest a poor connection or partial break on that line. Fixing the constant feed restores both functions. [Elektroda, monuai, post #16870400]

How can I quickly restore radio memory if the harness is open?

Try this three-step fix: 1. Verify 12 V on both sides of the memory fuse. 2. Confirm no constant 12 V at the radio’s yellow lead. 3. Run a new constant feed to yellow and protect it with a fuse near the source. [Elektroda, Ireneo, post #16871179]

What if the cigarette lighter is switched with the key in my Civic?

If the lighter is switched, it won’t hold radio memory. In that case, source constant 12 V from another fused always-hot circuit or repair the original memory feed in the loom. [Elektroda, mojepetro, post #16875984]

Should I check the cigarette lighter for constant or keyed power first?

Yes. Confirm whether the lighter is constant 12 V or keyed. This determines whether it’s a valid donor for the radio’s memory lead without adding complexity or extra fusing. [Elektroda, mojepetro, post #16870547]

I see 12 V with the key on, but nothing with the key off—what does that mean?

That reading matches a good ignition (red) feed but a missing constant (yellow) feed. The memory circuit is open between the fuse and the radio, or the splice has failed. Restore constant 12 V to yellow. [Elektroda, monuai, post #16870553]

Any expert tip before tearing the dash apart?

“The faster fix is to give a new plus, through a fuse.” This saves time chasing hidden splice failures and gets memory working reliably. [Elektroda, Ireneo, post #16871179]
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