Connecting the central heating and hot water installation to the gas furnace

Hello, I have a small problem, I search forums and I can't find anywhere like this:
I do all the water installations at home (CH and CWU) and ...
gas furnace will be TERMET ECOCONDENS SILVER 20 KW single function + water tank 150l. What should I do with the boiler's "height":
- finish "interrupting" the installation with a ball valve (and arrange a gas boiler fitter for gas connection and possibly for my unconnected pipes from central heating and hot water)? Some paper has to give it hooked up and it's tight?
- do I assemble all pipes to the furnace and the fitter only comes, connects the gas and deletes PLN
- maybe some flexible hoses? (what do you think about these snakes ?? Has anyone or heard of them? They can withstand hot water for CO?


Help, because I'm in a pinch

You connect everything, the service technician only starts the boiler, or installs the electric plug if the boiler does not have one. You can safely use the wires from the photo.

Hmmm and gas? I call for a gasman? Need paper for gasworks, that everything is connected as it should be and then they release gas for my connection? Yes? Because I'm getting lost as it should be in turn.

Do you already have a gas meter? If so, you don't have to report anything. If not, you urge the gasman to test for leaks and the chimney sweep to give an opinion.

skoru123 wrote:

- maybe some flexible hoses? (what do you think about these snakes ?? Has anyone or heard of them? They can withstand hot water for CO?

Uneven hose

There are several types on the market. There is no more reliable connection of CO pipes as if rigid. But sometimes snakes are used for a variety of reasons. However, they have one major disadvantage - after some time it begins to leak on the seals. Then you know, it is a bit of work to replace the seals because you usually have to drain the water from the central heating installation (or rather the pressure should go down so that you can unscrew anything).
Generally, if you do for yourself, I would do it properly, rigidly.
You asked if it would withstand the temperature of CO? No problem. Depending on the gasket used, they withstand a minimum of 150 ° C to 500 ° C.
As for the types of hoses on the market - without going into details, the easiest way to recognize them after finishing - ribbed, for CO installation they have such a ring in the cap, on the last turn. It is screwed with a nipple. These hoses require a thick washer / gasket (1-2 mm as in the store, the seller will show you the gaskets, you will recognize them immediately because they are definitely thicker than others) or leakage will appear quickly. They also require a nipple with a wider, non-conical end because when screwed, this nipple ridge cuts into the gasket and cuts it. The sealing surface is also smaller with this type of conical nipples. A rubber gasket can be used, however, this system (with this clamping ring) provides for multi-layer gaskets, green (for stainless steel), made of aramid-elastomer material.
There are also flexible hoses for drinking water - rubber, steel weave. However, they have much smaller diameters inside - you buy 3/4 inch and he only has 1/2 inside. Rather, they are not used for CO (they reduce the flow) only for hot water. But I have already seen everything at clients and such installations are not strange to me they installed what they had on hand and how best they could in the end they did for themselves

With boiler connection, it still depends whether you want to take advantage of the 7-year warranty (of course, for a fee). If so, the boiler must be installed by an Authorized Installer with an appropriate certificate issued by Termet. To launch the so-called zero, boiler adjustment and warranty increase comes an Authorized Service
It is sometimes the case that the boiler connects any plumber, installer or "brother-in-law from the aunt's cousin", you are looking for an Authorized Installer (to be able to extend the warranty) for "order in papers" and then Authorized Service to start

As for the boiler connection itself - there are no problems with connecting to flexible pipes - do not confuse with braided hoses. There are different diameters of these flexible pipes on the market, as well as sold differently: cut into meters and made ends or finished length additionally extensible in a certain range, e.g. 25-40 cm.
As for rigid connections - it is only necessary to remember that the boiler has 3/4 "external thread connections and it is best to connect something detachable flat-sealed, e.g. half-screw connection, so that it is possible to disassemble the boiler. Of course, remember the manufacturer's fittings: shut-off and drain valves, filters etc.

If you do not feel able to connect gas, then each of the above Installers or Servicemen will connect you for an additional fee, and you will have the so-called peace of mind.

ls_77 wrote:

As for rigid connections - it is only necessary to remember that the boiler has 3/4 "external thread connections and it is best to connect something detachable flat-sealed, e.g. half-screw connection, so that it is possible to disassemble the boiler. Of course, remember the manufacturer's fittings: shut-off and drain valves, filters etc.

hmm 3/4 external thread, I wanted to do the exit and entry of the PP32 CO pipe, so there I would have to give some reduction for 1 "or immediately the reduction from this external thread 3/4 immediately under the pipe pp32? what do you think (see diagram) yes I will had all the valves etc.

I would do like this:

I would give half-union 3 / 4-3 / 4 + tee 3 / 4x1 / 2x3 / 4 + PP32 weld fitting with 3/4 "external thread. In outlet 1/2 in the tee it is good to give some drain valve for later servicing of the boiler. supply and return the same.

A very nice combination this 1/2 valve is instead of this water discharge what's on the diagram?

and you supply WHAT also do without a 1/2 valve?

and connecting the boiler with the storage tank? (maybe you also know a good way to later not spit in the chin "why I didn't do it right now ...." ??? thanks

Do the same with the valve. Drain valves under the boiler are always useful - even to flush the boiler. You close the installation and do whatever you want with the boiler.

To connect the tank I would give a half union without a T-piece, only a shut-off valve and a transition adapter for the pipe you will be connecting. When you give the shut-off valves you will be able to disconnect the tank if something happens to it and the boiler continues to work.