[Solved] Protect Suspension Bolts from Corrosion: Molykote Copper Spray, Pins, Rods, Rust Prevention

Graphite grease is not bad for such screws when exposed to moisture. Its base, i.e. calcium grease, is quite resistant to water, and graphite particles that remain on the surface even when the base is practically gone, do the job.
I've been using it on the wheel bolts for years and I don't remember having any problems with unscrewing the wheel. Not with self-loosening either.
With chassis bolts, in the long run, the most reliable helper is a burner or some induction bolt heater, because currently the materials used for these elements are quite poor.

E8600 wrote:

Of course we lubricate. If the screw unscrews by itself, it means that there is a worked thread and it should be replaced, or use a self-locking washer / nut. For more sensitive places, such as the exhaust manifold, there is copper grease, which leaves a coating of other metal, while on other threads - solid grease. Please do not write a theory about the self-locking of the thread because when the screw is tightened, there is no grease on the contact surface of the thread turns (high friction forces it out).

The case is a bit more complicated, especially in engines where currently manufacturers use 2 solutions so as not to interfere with the engine. Namely, stretchable disposable screws and glue-mounted screws. In today's cars it is very easy to damage the soft aluminum threads, so don't be surprised later that the screw is unscrewing. This is because the bolts are counted for the contact of 120-150%, where in the past such a connection had to withstand 3 times the acting force and longer threads were used (everything is due to savings).

So I understand that you mean that we run the entire bolt with grease and it's ok? :)

Added after 1 [minutes]:

los_sombreros wrote:

Graphite grease is not bad for such screws when exposed to moisture. Its base, i.e. calcium grease, is quite resistant to water, and graphite particles that remain on the surface even when the base is practically gone, do the job.
I've been using it on the wheel bolts for years and I don't remember having any problems with unscrewing the wheel. Not with self-loosening either.
With chassis bolts, in the long run, the most reliable helper is a burner or some induction bolt heater, because currently the materials used for these elements are quite poor.

It is a fact that the stake is always useful and I use it a lot, but here I meant more that the bolt falls apart with rust; (

7hebill wrote:

So I understand that you mean that we run the entire bolt with grease and it's ok?

Yes, if you want to be sure that it will not unscrew, use self-locking nuts (with a plastic insert) where possible.
I also do not recommend using ordinary screws in places where they were hardened before (some people do this and the screws break and get lost). In A4 B5 I saw such a case, while doing the suspension, the guy replaced the bolts with ordinary ones and after a few months, half of the bolts were missing. A small comparison of the screw hardness designations below.

I always lubricate all suspension bolts with grease before assembly, as well as the protruding thread, and no one has unscrewed by itself.

Greetings.

DjMapet wrote:

I always lubricate all suspension bolts with grease before assembly, as well as the protruding thread, and no one has unscrewed by itself.

Greetings.

Because it will not unscrew, there is no such possibility, I wrote about it before. The only problem is that when you lubricate the bolt and its thread, when you apply the torque described in the documentation, the bolt will be tighter, because the torques given by the manufacturers are given for dry bolts. Thus, a lubricated screw tightened with the manufacturer's recommended torque is much more tightened than dry. If you want the bolt to be tightened as recommended by the manufacturer, it is not enough to tighten it with a strictly defined torque, the bolt must also be dry. This should be borne in mind.

When replacing bolts, always use bolts of strength according to the specification. In other words, when I want to replace the screw with a new one, it is best and easiest to buy it at an authorized service station. It is true that with them one screw costs a bit more (I paid PLN 12 for makpersonów), but you can be sure that it is not Chinese and will be as good as the original.
Greetings!

^ToM^ wrote:

DjMapet wrote:

I always lubricate all suspension bolts with grease before assembly, as well as the protruding thread, and no one has unscrewed by itself.

Greetings.

Because it will not unscrew, there is no such possibility, I wrote about it before. The only problem is that when you lubricate the bolt and its thread, when you apply the torque described in the documentation, the bolt will be tighter, because the torques given by the manufacturers are given for dry bolts. Thus, a lubricated screw tightened with the manufacturer's recommended torque is much more tightened than dry. If you want the bolt to be tightened as recommended by the manufacturer, it is not enough to tighten it with a strictly defined torque, the bolt must also be dry. This should be borne in mind.

Well, is it more stretched, dry or wet? Do you suggest increasing the tightening torque of a lubricated bolt?

A colleague from not lubricating the screws knows that they are ringing somewhere but does not know which church. The problem is not the lubrication or the accuracy of the torque wrenches. It starts to move away from it in the direction of angular tightening, in my opinion, much more precise.

Torque wrenches appeared because in the factory everything is machine-screwed, where it is easy to ensure the exact tightening torque, while an ordinary torque wrench is a "bum" full of defects. It is a measuring equipment (it needs to be calibrated similarly to a micrometer), it is often not very accurate in the upper and lower range. I ignore the fact that people buy cheap torque wrenches and think 1 universal is enough. A good set of torque wrenches has 5-7 pieces, the ranges are narrow and cost a little bit + calibration during operation. The problem is also that people don't know that there is such a thing as a one-time bolt that stretches. The second time that such a screw is screwed in will cause problems and the producers knew it well when introducing such a solution. An example is the problems with the new head gasket, where we can also find disposable screws. Original screws only at ASO and the price so that hardly anyone replaces them.

mn997 wrote:

Angular tightening also requires a torque wrench. Does a colleague know about it?

Yes, but it is for pre-tightening and it is safer for bolts / threads.

But initially, you can also screw it weaker or stronger. As a result, after tightening by some required angle, the screw will be tightened more or less.

Pan.Kropa wrote:

But initially, you can also screw it weaker or stronger. As a result, after tightening by some required angle, the screw will be tightened more or less.

That is why both tools and practice count. Returning to the topic, I saw a patent somewhere that the bolts, of course, lubricated were secured with a thin layer of spray paint so that they would not corrode, while the grease secured the thread against sticking with paint (there were no problems with unscrewing it later).

jalop wrote:

Well, is it more stretched, dry or wet? Do you suggest increasing the tightening torque of a lubricated bolt?

The lubricated thread is more stretched, because with a given force, the lubricated thread creates less resistance. So if you give the recommended torque, the bolt will be tighter. I am not suggesting increasing or decreasing the torque. I am only writing about the physical effect of lubricating the screw thread.

^ToM^ wrote:

The lubricated thread is more stretched, because with a given force, the lubricated thread creates less resistance. So if you give the recommended torque, the bolt will be tighter. I am not suggesting increasing or decreasing the torque. I am only writing about the physical effect of lubricating the screw thread.

Analogy screw corroded or with some tarnish increasing friction and the screw will be loose despite applying the correct torque. Everything is flawed.

Pan.Kropa wrote:

But initially, you can also screw it weaker or stronger. As a result, after tightening by some required angle, the screw will be tightened more or less.

Either it tightens in according to the required force or it is not. Weaker or stronger these expressions are worthless.

If we are already talking about angular tightening, it is worth having an adapter for a dynamometer wrench in the form of a protractor.

jalop wrote:

Either it tightens in according to the required force or it is not. Weaker or stronger these expressions are worthless.

If we are already talking about angular tightening, it is worth having an adapter for a dynamometer wrench in the form of a protractor.

,,, ok ,,, I quoted my friend from the round-up, and is it ??? you did not deviate from the topic, the topic was

jalop wrote:

How to protect suspension bolts against corrosion?

The tractor's saddle, the TIR is lubricated with black grease, he is not afraid of water, it is probably based on graphite, probably even the acid will not move. I do not want to quote, dynamometer wrenches etc., most of them use a pneumat anyway, but faster and where is this dynamometer
buddy consider this TIRA saddle grease he is not afraid of water is not chygroscopic

Thanks a lot for the advice, I think the topic is already exhausted greetings

I don't think anyone has written yet, but with this copper grease and aluminum, I advise you to be careful.

You're right, buddy pitool, they like each other as much as a dog and a cat after a conflict.

Lubricates from today