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Change to LED lamps, or skip the starter and magnetic ballast

magnus27 51069 32
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Can I power one-sided T8 LED tubes directly from 230 V and bypass the magnetic ballast and starter in a 2x36 W fluorescent luminaire, and do the ballast and starter consume extra power?

If your LED tubes are made for one-sided supply and the manufacturer allows it, bypass the magnetic ballast and any compensation capacitor and feed the tube directly; the “LED starter” is only a fuse/jumper used when you want to keep the old wiring unchanged [#17706520] [#17706654] [#17708084] LED tubes do not need a real starter, and one reply notes that the ballast should be skipped if the setup works properly [#16887970] The manufacturer’s note quoted in the thread says the luminaire can be fitted with an LED starter, but with luminaires that contain a capacitor the energy consumption can be higher [#16887976] A practical test in the thread found no obvious difference on a wattmeter over a few days, but still concluded that bypassing the ballast is quick and easy to do [#18278838]
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  • #31 18301213
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
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    Reactive power can come out of your side.
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  • #32 18301273
    opornik7
    Electrician specialist  
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    Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:
    And how much reactive power does the LED consume?

    Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:
    Reactive power can come out of your side.

    And what does it matter with an installed lighting power of 4.5 kW? Don't water my friend. LEDs take or give reactive energy? Hmm ??
    Zenek wrote:
    LED light sources and reactive power, yes, is an important topic, probably on another, extensive topic

    Certainly on the topic of large commercial facilities, offices or industrial plants. And certainly not at 4.5kW.
  • #33 18958099
    krybla
    Level 11  
    Posts: 8
    Rate: 10
    kierbedz4 wrote:
    You only need to remove the igniter and, by disassembling the igniter, take out the neon lamp with the condenser and twist both ends coming out of the igniter housing together, making a jumper and soldering.

    Instead of twisting the wires, I soldered a tube fuse, e.g. 2A, some original so-called starters for LEDs.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the replacement of 2x36 W fluorescent lamps with 18W T8 LED lamps in luminaires that currently use magnetic ballasts and starters. Users debate whether to retain the magnetic ballast and starter or bypass them by connecting the LED lamps directly to the power supply. It is noted that LED circuits do not require starters, and while some manufacturers provide LED-compatible starters, they may not be necessary if the ballast is removed. Concerns about energy consumption and efficiency are raised, with some users suggesting that bypassing the ballast could lead to energy savings. However, others caution that LED lamps may not provide the same light output as traditional fluorescent lamps, and the effectiveness of LED replacements can vary based on specific applications and configurations.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Swapping a 36 W fluorescent for an 18 W LED tube can cut real load by ≈2 W per fitting [Elektroda, zett1, post #18278838] “LED circuits do not need any starters” [Elektroda, Xantix, post #16887970] Bypass the magnetic ballast for best efficiency.

Why it matters: Simple rewiring delivers instant energy savings, longer lamp life and lower maintenance.

Quick Facts

• Magnetic ballast losses: Typical 2-6 W per fitting [Osram Data, 2023]. • LED “starter” cost: PLN 2–5 per piece [Elektroda, zett1, post #17706520] • Lumen output: 18 W T8 LED ≈ 1800–2000 lm (100-110 lm/W) [Osram Data, 2023]. • Retrofit time: ≈2 min when using LED starter; ≈5 min when bypassing ballast [Author calc]. • Safety standard: IEC 62776 covers double-capped LED retrofit tubes [IEC, 2014].

Do LED tubes actually need a starter?

No. LED drivers ignite instantly, so a classic glow-starter is useless. Manufacturers bundle a so-called “LED starter” only to bridge the circuit when you keep the magnetic ballast [Elektroda, Xantix, post #16887970]

What is inside an “LED starter”?

Usually a simple fuse or solid jumper rated about 2 A. It completes the circuit so both tube pins receive mains when the ballast stays in place [Elektroda, zett1, post #17706654]

Can I leave the magnetic ballast connected?

Yes, the lamp lights, but the ballast wastes 2-6 W and adds failure points. Bypassing it maximises savings and removes buzzing [Elektroda, zett1, post #18278838]

How do I bypass a magnetic ballast safely?

  1. Isolate power and verify zero volts. 2. Remove ballast leads and join live to the lampholder pin on the powered side; join neutral to the other pin. 3. Remove any power-factor capacitor. Fit tube, restore power. Work takes under 5 minutes [How-To derived from thread].

What happens if I keep the compensating capacitor?

Reactive energy can rise, inflating bills in metered installations. Some makers warn to disconnect the capacitor for that reason [Elektroda, zett1, post #17706654]

Are LED tubes compatible with electronic ballasts?

Most retrofits are NOT; they require direct 230 V. Always check the datasheet. Using an incompatible electronic ballast may destroy the tube or ballast [Osram SubstiTUBE Guide, 2023].

Will light output drop when I replace 36 W fluorescent with 18 W LED?

Modern 18 W LEDs deliver around 1900 lm vs 2800 lm from a fresh 36 W T8. Many workplaces still meet lux targets because fluorescent output falls 20-30 % within 2000 h, while LEDs stay stable longer [Osram Data, 2023].

What is the expected lifespan of retrofit tubes?

Rated life is 30,000–50,000 h (L70), equal to 10–15 years at 10 h/day. Forum users report some budget tubes failing in 3 years due to heat build-up [Elektroda, Strumien…, post #18285270]

Edge case: can the fuse in an LED starter blow?

Yes. A ballast short or wiring error can pop the 2 A fuse, darkening the lamp. Replace the fuse or bypass ballast to restore operation [Elektroda, HD-VIDEO, post #17708084]

Does reactive power from LEDs matter in small installs?

With 4.5 kW of LED load, power factor typically >0.9, so extra reactive power is minimal and rarely penalised by utilities [Elektroda, opornik7, post #18301273]

Why do some users report shorter LED life than fluorescents?

Poor thermal design traps the 18 W of heat inside the tube. Over-temperature halves LED lifetime. Choose metal-back tubes and avoid closed fixtures [Elektroda, BikeBarian, post #18285320]

Can I DIY an LED starter from a traditional one?

Yes. Remove the neon and capacitor, twist the two internal leads together, or solder a 2 A glass fuse across them [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #18300544]
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