FAQ
TL;DR: Intermittent “no signal” on mesh antennas usually traces to a failing plug‑in supply or a momentary coax short. Replacement costs 5–10 PLN, and “repair … should not be a problem.” [Elektroda, DiZMar, post #16927440]
Why it matters: This FAQ shows how to isolate if the fault is in the power supply, connector, cable, or antenna amplifier—fast.
Quick Facts
- Warm power supply with LED off points to a short in cabling or connectors, not necessarily the PSU itself. [Elektroda, DiZMar, post #16927385]
- Quick isolation test: unplug PSU from the DC separator and/or TV side to see if the LED returns. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #16927383]
- Typical culprits: a “hair” from the braid touching the center conductor at the plug or amplifier. [Elektroda, DiZMar, post #16926859]
- Visuals can look fine; cold solder joints inside the PSU still cause intermittent dropouts. [Elektroda, DiZMar, post #16926879]
- Replacement plug‑in antenna power supplies run about 5–10 PLN. [Elektroda, DiZMar, post #16927440]
Why does my antenna power LED go out and return hours later?
Intermittent shorts at the plug or amplifier connection can trip the supply and extinguish the LED. A failing plug‑in PSU is also possible. Stray braid strands that touch the center conductor are a common root cause. Inspect and re‑terminate suspect connectors. [Elektroda, DiZMar, post #16926859]
How do I tell if the fault is the power supply or the antenna/cable?
Do a separation test. Disconnect the PSU from the DC separator (and, if needed, from the TV side) and observe the LED. “You will get information whether the problem lies in the power supply itself or in the antenna installation.” [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #16927383]
My power supply is warm but the LED is off—what does that indicate?
Warm housing with the LED off indicates the PSU is under load from a short elsewhere, often at the plug, cable, or amplifier connection. Remove sections one by one to find where the short clears. [Elektroda, DiZMar, post #16927385]
The LED stays off even with the antenna unplugged. What next?
If the LED remains off when the PSU is completely separated from the antenna path, the PSU is faulty and should be replaced. This confirms the issue lies in the power unit itself. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #16927472]
What does 0–20% signal strength and 0% quality typically mean?
That pattern points to an unpowered or failed masthead amplifier path. With no DC to the amplifier, tuners often show low strength and zero quality. Restore DC power first, then recheck metrics. [Elektroda, mocny2_3, post #16927358]
Could a single tiny braid “hair” really kill the signal?
Yes. A single strand bridging the shield and center conductor intermittently shorts DC and RF. Trim flush, ensure no whiskers remain, and remake the connector if necessary. [Elektroda, DiZMar, post #16926859]
Do photos of my plug help diagnose this intermittent fault?
Not reliably. Connectors can look perfect yet hide intermittent shorts. Also check for “cold” solder joints inside the PSU; they fail under heat or vibration. Hands‑on inspection is required. [Elektroda, DiZMar, post #16926879]
What is a DC separator in TV antenna setups?
A DC separator injects power onto the coax for the amplifier while blocking DC from entering the TV. It typically includes a coupling capacitor and an RF choke at the TV input. Failures here can mimic PSU faults. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #16927383]
How much should I expect to pay for a replacement antenna power supply?
Approx. 5–10 PLN for common plug‑in units. Swapping is often faster than chasing intermittent faults, then you can bench‑test the old unit later. [Elektroda, DiZMar, post #16927440]
Can old or cracked coaxial cable cause this on‑off behavior?
Yes. Aging coax can crack, letting the shield contact the center conductor when flexed or heated, causing intermittent shorts and PSU shutdown. Replace suspect runs. [Elektroda, arturdip, post #16927412]
How do I run a fast 3‑step isolation test?
- Unplug the PSU from the DC separator and watch the LED.
- If unclear, also disconnect the antenna cable from the TV side and retest.
- Reconnect sections one at a time to locate the failing segment. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #16927383]
The LED sometimes lights after hours—should I still replace parts?
Yes. Intermittent recovery suggests an internal PSU fault or thermal short. If the LED stays off when isolated, replace the PSU first, then re‑evaluate reception. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #16927472]
What component inside the separator commonly fails?
The coupling capacitor in the WCZ/DC separator is a weak link and can misbehave, causing symptoms like dropouts or false shorts. Replace the separator to test. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #16927383]
Any edge cases I should check at the plug PCB?
Inspect close solder pads or bridges that may touch when warm. Even slight pad contact can short intermittently and extinguish the LED until it cools. Rework spacing if needed. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #16927108]
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