Used engine oil as fuel.

Hello, I'm going to experiment a bit with using used motor oil as fuel for older diesel engines. It is not a completely used tar black oil, but one that comes from regular replacements in good condition engines.

I know that it is possible, but inadvisable, and the question of how long on such a thing is a car is quite debatable, although the most important thing depends on the preparation of the car in terms of burning such fuel. Certainly, the oil will have to be subjected to multiple and careful filtration and the use of a heater before feeding it to the engine. In the future, perhaps I will make a two-tank installation.

I also plan to buy a car for about PLN 1000 especially for this purpose. I am asking for help which diesel engines (I mean mainly the fuel supply system) should endure these tests the most.

Best regards and thank you in advance for any responses, including those relating to my idea.

Certainly, all common rails and unit injectors fall off - generally everything that has an advanced ecology, preferably something on a simple, mechanical pump, no compressor, the engine is not strained. I do not know if it is profitable even from a practical point of view - what to do with refined waste, how to undergo an inspection with such a car, I would think about a turbo-shaft engine, which in theory will go on almost any liquid and gaseous fuel, but it is rather a curiosity. Another curiosity is the two-stroke Diesel, which should also handle worse fuel better - if you would adopt one for your car - I don't know, but it would definitely be original
I do not know if you are watching. Lovers of 4 wheels - they did experiments with a Corsa B, which withstood torture without any problems, powered and lubricated with frying oil, if I remember correctly, the same Corsa (or Golf 3, you need to look for it) did the test without lubrication (it worked 20 min), these expensive cars are not, and if they are not rusty, they are quite useful.

Something on an old rotary pump that costs W pennies. Probably some VW / Audi 1.6 D or TD. To be sure, have the injectors themselves checked / adjusted. In addition, a good heating installation and, as you wrote earlier, filtration is the basis. At first, you can try mixing oil with diesel. Later, as you check and get good results, reduce the proportions.


Additionally, driving on this type of fuel is illegal in Poland .

Take a look at the Andoria 4C90 family engines (e.g. in the Żuk car). It has an in-line piston pump, so it should handle this type of fuel.

It has been mentioned more than once - old darts, with in-line or rotary pumps and pintle injectors - i.e. old Golfs 2/3 with 1.6-1.9 engines (TD, not TDI !!!), old Mercedes or Peugeot. For direct consumption, the oil should be filtered anyway, to get rid of soot and filings, and to get rid of water from it.

I would also let go of pumps with all kinds of "electro" adjusters.

Thanks for the answer. I watched the M4K movie braking the Golf 3 1.9 diesel with used oil, I had such ideas before, but this movie convinced me to continue in this direction. From what I associate, the Corsa was powered by gasoline, so if this engine was powered with burnt oil, it would not have gone. :)

So common rails and unit injectors are definitely coming off due to the high price and sensitivity to poor fuel. So far, I have noticed the units from the Opel Corsa B and Astra F - 1.5D and 1.7D and 1.6D of the VAG concern used in the Audi 80 and Golf II, possibly the newer 1.9 SDI and 1.9TDI. Which of these would be most suitable? Is there anything else worth recommending?

To be honest, this is the first time I have heard about a turbo-shaft engine and I will rather skip this issue due to poor availability and high price. :)

I am not sure yet about the method of filtering and preparing the oil before pouring it into the tank. It is important for me that the filtration equipment is not too expensive, so professional devices are rather out of the question. I am thinking rather about the self-made. Would passing hot oil through fuel and pressurized oil filters several times be enough? As for waste, it is unlikely to be too much and I certainly will not throw it into the forest.

It took me a while to write this post and in the meantime there are additional replies to the topic, so I apologize for the pointlessness of some of the sentences.

In addition to filtration, there was the issue of heating the fuel before feeding it to the injection pump. The safest and most trustworthy one seemed to be heating the fuel by the radiator fluid and I caught the eye of something like this: http://allegro.pl/podgrzewacz-paliwa-2-2-cdi-w203-w210-w211-c-klasa-i7105936990. html In theory, it should probably do the job, as you can see in the photo, there are two fuel and two coolant connectors sticking out of it.

I would also give up TDI and SDI.
Look for the old 1.6D / TD or 1.9D / TD from VW, if you kill the old pump, you will get it everywhere and for a pittance.

Remember that you also have to start the car somehow to make the fuel warm. There must be a pre-heater that turns off when the set fuel temperature is reached.

It is better to fire on ON, and make a heat exchanger: cool / oil, after heating, switch to overworked, similarly to LPG.

So I will be looking for a car with a 1.6 or 1.9 D / TD engine from VAG, but how about 1.5D and 1.7D from Corsa B and Astra F and 1.8D from Escort, Fiesta? I am asking because it is easier to get the old Corsa, Astra and Escort cheaper and in better condition than the quite archaic Golf II.

To heat the fuel, however, I think I will decide on an electric heater and installed in serial cars, for example: http://allegro.pl/accord-vii-02-2-2-podgrzewacz-paliwa-186390-0020-i6976105480.html. I want to reduce the operating time of a cold engine on oil as much as possible. For easy starting after driving, I will leave the engine running until the injection pump is filled with oil, so that there will be no problems with starting later.

I have the greatest doubts about the filtration method, because, as you know, the better you can filter the oil, the greater the chance that the car will drive on it for more than a few days. I will definitely run the oil through a series of filters to separate mechanical impurities, and get rid of most of the metal filings as well. I'll heat the oil so that the water evaporates. Is there anything else I could do to make the oil for home use as pure as possible?

Cleaning only with a centrifuge because you will often replace the filters - cost. You need an oil pump from just about anything so that the 4bar will do and a filter-centrifuge from Ursus, probably C-360. You will clean the centrifuge every now and then, and after the competition.

Added after 4 [minutes]:

As for the engine running on oil - it is probably working and there is no reason to worry, maybe it is a bit weaker and there may be a problem with burning in the cold.

Will Webasto move wet with such oil or not too much?

I wonder if driving on such oil from the exhaust pipe there will be a stench like from an old rickety engine burning oil from the lubrication system.

A few years ago a friend did an experiment with used vegetable oil. However, it was fed to the engine after mixing it with crude oil about half and a half. breadcrumbs) poured crude oil, stirred and filtered the liquid through several layers of gauze placed on the colander. Then into the car tank. It was even better than on pure crude oil and the engine was quieter. 2-3 thousand km The car was a Citroen XM with a 2.1 TD engine.

Art.B wrote:

And among unconventional fuels, we should mention transformer oil. My friend's father drove a Mercedes 190 on a transformer only, the engine did not kick, it had a nice, soft job and there were no problems with starting.

The oil used in transformers has a specific smell - after a whole day in a plant producing (regenerating) transformers, the whole person passes through this smell. In addition, this oil is harmful, carcinogenic ...

Some progress?
For oil filtration, there must be a stationary device in the form of a high-speed centrifuge: Centrifuge
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNC-PVOj-fY

Well, there is some progress. The initial desire to buy a Golf 2 or another Passat ended with a Peugeot 106 1.5D.
The engine, when warm, works well with a mixture of 95% gear oil + 4.5% gasoline + 0.5% kerosene. Gasoline is for a slight thinning and kerosene for cleaning the injectors and pump.

When the engine is cold, it sways strongly. Ripple decreases as the engine warms up, but does not wav at all after warming up. By slightly increasing the RPM of the cold engine, the wave also stops. My guess is the problem is that the oil is too thick (viscous). I bought an electric heater from the Honda Accord, but the fuel circuit is too large and it is impossible to heat only the amount that is to be burned by the engine because most of the fuel returns to the tank.
The solution could be to heat the entire tank, but heating that amount with the same current from the alternator is not an option. A coolant heat exchanger would be better as it would not burden any engine component. The problem here is that the fuel is heated with the engine temperature, so a cold engine will run on thick, cold oil anyway. How to solve this problem? A two-tank installation would be best, but I cannot find cheap solenoid valves that would be suitable for this purpose for automatic fuel source change.

You give the return not to the tank, but to the heater inlet. Then a small amount of oil circulates through the pump and heater, so it should heat up quickly and as much cold gets in as the engine burns.
So that it can somehow vent itself (jelly, it works like that), you can connect the return from the pump back to the tank, covering the hose to the tank. In general, you have to play with the crossover to maintain the direction of the fuel flow. Of course, the suction behind the tank is not limited. The fuel filter must then be placed between the heater and the pump.
What is the smell from the pipe?

A good heat exchanger is exhaust gas that has a high temperature in the first cycles of engine operation. Wrap the fuel hose in a spiral around the exhaust pipe and tighten it with a heat-insulating bandage.
Which does not change the fact that you must have a second tank for firing anyway, because in winter you will not fire it on such a mixture.
Adapt the solenoid valve with the entire tank switching unit to the LPG installation. In the pipes, before it expands, it's still a liquid, just like your soup.

kwok wrote:

You give the return not to the tank, but to the heater inlet. Then a small amount of oil circulates through the pump and heater, so it should heat up quickly and as much cold gets in as the engine burns.
So that it can somehow vent itself (jelly, it works like that), you can connect the return from the pump back to the tank, covering the hose to the tank. Generally, you have to play with the crossover to maintain the direction of the fuel flow. Of course, the suction behind the tank is not limited. The fuel filter must then be placed between the heater and the pump.
What is the smell from the pipe?

Suppose the normal connection sequence is tank-heater-pump-pump return to tank. From what I understand, I can plug the normal return to the tank and direct it back through the heater. I am curious how the venting of such a system would look like, because I guess that it is the return that is responsible for venting, and when it is directed back to the input, a problem may arise.
As for the smell, I haven't had much contact with diesels before, but I think it is quite similar to oil. There is much more to smoke than oil.

zasilaczen wrote:

Exhaust gases that have a high temperature already are a good heat exchanger
in the first cycles of engine operation. Wrap the fuel hose in a spiral around the exhaust pipe and tighten it with a heat-insulating bandage.
Which does not change the fact that you must have a second tank for firing anyway, because in winter you will not fire it on such a mixture.
Adapt the solenoid valve with the entire tank switching unit to the LPG installation. In the pipes, before it expands, it's still a liquid, just like your soup.

I thought about wrapping a copper tube around the exhaust, but gave up because I can't control the oil temperature. The exhaust heats up to several hundred degrees and if you put out such a hot engine, the oil in this tube will heat up very much.

In such a wrap, venting is almost impossible, so you would have to provide a tee on the return from the pump and connect the return to the tank to it, but the flow to the tank must be limited so that most of the fuel goes to the heater. Maybe it will work, and venting, however difficult it is, not impossible.

hi,

I came across the thread looking for info about the possibility of returning used oil

I rarely post online, but in the face of such moronic ideas it is difficult to ignore - what will get out of your pipe will be nothing with rubbish - heavy metals, carbon deposit - do you know what the role of oil in the engine is and that it is designed to collect the worst muck ?

What kind of a life failure do you have to be to try to save in this way? How much can you save?

I do not wish you anything good, Sniffleso - maybe one: go to your head or explain yourself somehow meaningfully, e.g. you do it for scientific research etc - then we will forget about the matter
greet

PLM

A friend beat me. I will put it more bluntly. Start, buddy, author, eat the cheapest g .... Available in the store, put on a garment or find your pants from the rubbish bin. This way you will only harm yourself and not everyone around you. And enough for fuel. Such from the stations. Twenty like you at the closed railroad crossing and next to the sidewalk, a mother with a kid in a pram. Great prospect

kortyleski wrote:

Twenty like you at the closed railroad crossing and next to the sidewalk, a mother with a kid in a pram. Great prospect

There is a saying: "You will know a fool by his deeds"

And you thought about the emission of pollutants from several dozen liters of used oil burnt by him to tens of thousands of burned. tons of garbage in landfills? Personally, I am not in favor of such pseudo savings, I only mean the fact who is more poisonous.

Report to PŻM or PLO, your idea is simply amazing. On ships, the injectors have holes the size of the bottom of a glass, they will let anything through. It's almost a perpetual motion machine - these engines could burn the oil they are lubricated with.
Revelation.