logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda

Converting a German Furnace to Run on Waste Oil for Garage Heating

staszekk7 242782 33
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 1102410
    staszekk7
    Level 18  
    Hello
    Is it possible to power a fuel oil furnace with used oil? I have a simple furnace imported from Germany. It has no pump. The oil at the bottom of the furnace is ignited and when it heats up, there are holes through which the vapors start to burn. Does anyone know if it will run on oil? overworked because heating oil is quite expensive and it is used to heat the garage, please help
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • Helpful post
    #2 1102574
    elektryk2000
    Refrigeration equipment specialist
    A friend of mine has such a furnace and I think it will work without any problems with used oil, provided that you pour it from the top from time to time. I`m afraid you can`t pour it into the tank because it may get clogged.
    After warming up with fuel oil, my friend added mineral oil from used refrigeration compressors and had heating almost for free. ;)
  • #3 1990922
    c_04
    Level 21  
    Hello
    I have a problem how to build it... how to solve the burner?? it doesn`t necessarily have to be with nozzles
    Regards
  • #4 1992583
    Jan Nojszewski
    Level 18  
    I saw such a stove; Oil from the tank dripped down onto the red-hot metal plate through a tube whose end was flattened. The oil should drip at such a frequency that the plate maintains its temperature by properly crimping the tube. Black smoke was visible from the chimney.
  • #5 1993192
    c_04
    Level 21  
    Hello
    so what heats the plate? because if it is heated electrically, such a stove is not economical... and the second thing is where the combustion takes place? because if this plate heats the oil, it only evaporates
    Regards
  • #6 1996008
    Jan Nojszewski
    Level 18  
    You light up, let`s say, a "goat", the plate heats up to red hot and then you add oil.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #8 2005410
    c_04
    Level 21  
    any description for this? what`s wrong with you in this picture?
    Regards
  • #9 2009815
    zbigniew tomczak
    Level 23  
    gentlemen, what about ecology - does it make sense, a furnace that would meet the standards and not pollute the environment will be very expensive - - used oil cannot be used for these purposes... fines can be very high if neighbors report... .

    Regards******
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #10 2010579
    c_04
    Level 21  
    what about coal-based ecology? since you can burn it... and I don`t think it pollutes the environment less, and besides, in cars, some of the oil is also burned, depending on the wear and tear of the engine... they could make the oil non-flammable and then the problem would be solved :) and what about heating oils and oil stoves available in the trade for which no one is punished? there should be some sanctions imposed on supermarkets or anyone selling them... maybe there are penalties, but I have 3 neighbors and they are more than 100 m away. .. I don`t know what they smoke and I don`t care ;) I just want it to be warm and I did tests and the oil heats my stove until it`s red hot, the coal only heats up the house so it`s warm enough to feel the temperature when I go outside.
    Greetings
  • Helpful post
    #11 2012103
    elektryk2000
    Refrigeration equipment specialist
    If an ecological issue has arisen, I will ask the experts why fuel oil cannot be burned in cars but can be burned in boilers for heating? As far as I remember, the police explain ecology in such cases ;)
  • #12 2017397
    lopr_pol
    Level 32  
    No ecology, only US. There is no excise tax on fuels and if you use it or any other fuel (rapeseed oil, for example), you`re screwed if you get caught.
  • #13 2032552
    omed
    Level 14  
    Hello! I know people who have been pouring fuel into TDI for 7 years and it`s OK. As for the color, they sell red and yellow fuel. Ecology? Or only in vehicles? Nowadays, people at home burn everything that can be burned, and cement plants officially dispose of old tires!
  • #14 2223484
    Słomiński Tadeusz
    Level 11  
    We talk about ecology, but still no one says a word about how to make such a stove. The drawing itself is only about how it works, what about the materials, dimensions, etc.? What tile?, thickness, material, air inlet, etc., etc., Diameters and technical description, does anyone have it? Maybe by e-mail: stadex(_at_)wp.pl. I`m waiting and thank you
  • #15 2224125
    c_04
    Level 21  
    Hello...
    so yes... a drawing posted by one of my friends, thank you for it, but it didn`t help me and I still had to pay a commission... so I`m asking again, if anyone knows how to build it, please contact me...
    for now, I have received an offer to buy stoves that someone produces there and maybe it is not an expensive deal, about PLN 1,000 for a CO stove, but I would actually like something small, especially since, as my colleagues write here, there may be a problem with green boliforms ;) so something that I could put a pipe outside the door and heat my garage... or move the coal stove aside and heat myself with it...
    I admit that I built a small prototype and it is the size of 2 buckets ;) because the lower part comes from a large paint can... it somehow works, but I burned normal, clean oil in it... maybe I burned a glass in 2 hours... I don`t know how much exactly because I didn`t measure the time and I poured it as much as I could. it poured ;) In any case, it worked so much that I had to work hard to light it... and, for example, I threw in a newspaper smeared with oil and previously set on fire...
    Regards
  • #16 2226107
    Łukasz Dolega
    Level 12  
    Hello,
    I know that what I will write is off-topic, but I`m sure many people will be interested in it, especially Elektryk2000.

    I hope someone will be able to get through my ramblings.
    Their sources are tables, standards, reports on parameter measurements and, to the greatest extent, practically unlimited knowledge of my father-in-law on this topic and my modest knowledge in the automotive field.
    Before there is an answer as to what this means, I will first try to provide some technical information which - I hope - will dispel doubts about the differences between diesel oil (ON) and heating oil (OO), of course the so-called light oil, because it is the only one we can compare sensibly.
    In practice, OO and ON come from the same fraction of crude oil distillation - without delving into the essence of the distillation itself. They come from the same fraction because separate "distilling" would not make economic sense.
    The product resulting from this process, depending on what it is ultimately to be, is subject to appropriate processing to meet the standard specified for OO and ON. The base standard for diesel fuel is PN-EN 590:2005 (U) "Fuels for motor vehicles. Diesel oils. Requirements and test methods".
    For OO there is PN-EN 14213:2005 (U)
    "Fuel oils (...) Requirements and test methods". Additionally, there are several hundred other standards specifying methods and conditions for measuring parameters, some of them common to diesel fuel and OO (e.g. PN-EN 116:2001 "Diesel oils and light fuel oils. Determination of the cold filter blocking temperature").
    Basically, there are 16 basic (normative) measurement parameters for diesel fuel and 11 for OO.
    And here we slowly come to the heart of the matter: the basic and superior parameter for diesel fuel is the cetane number, cetane index and density at 15 degrees C. It would seem that the calorific value should also be the superior parameter, but here`s a surprise: the standards for diesel fuel do not provide for such a parameter at all! If it is determined, it is determined only at the request of the person ordering the test (there is no point in such a test), to deepen knowledge and satisfy curiosity by laboratory technicians in fuel analysis laboratories or by the requirement of internal standards of fuel producers.
    For OO, the analogous primary parameters are density and calorific value. The cetane number is not determined because OO is not intended to be a propellant, so there is no need for it. In this case, laboratory technicians can also test this parameter for their own knowledge or upon request.
    The remaining normative and non-normative parameters of OO and diesel partially overlap and therefore both fuels can be compared.
    And soon everything will be clear.
    Anyone who has gone through this pile of text and not fallen asleep from boredom, and who also paid attention, already knows that we can compare density from the main normative parameters of OO and ON. It so happens that this parameter differs the most between the two fuels and is most important when using OO as a diesel fuel.
    Diesel density according to the standard ranges from 820 to 845 kg/m3
    The density of OO is from 855 kg/m3 upwards
    OO is denser than diesel by about 5% and more.
    To obtain a product called ON from distillation, appropriate additives must be added to reduce the density to the required standard for ON (the first difference in chemical composition).
    When we examine the other main parameters of OO and diesel fuel and compare them, it turns out that the cetane number for diesel fuel, defined in the standard as at least 51, is the same or higher for fuel oil.
    The calorific value of OO is not less than 42.6 Mj/kg and after examination it turns out that diesel fuel has in practice the same parameter.
    And now the more important comparable normative parameters of OO and ON:
    Flash point OO: min 56 degrees C; HE min. 55 degrees C (1 degree difference in the standard, so that the liquid after distillation becomes ON, another additive is added in the production process to lower the ignition temperature to the required standard).
    sulfur content: ON no more than 50mg/kg; OO no more than 0.2%/m/m (unfortunately, different units, but easy to compare - a task for mathematicians.
    in the 2003 standard, the sulfur content for diesel fuel was still 350 mg/kg.
    Residue after coking (from 10% of distillation residue): ON and OO the same, i.e. max 0.3%/m/m;
    Ash content max. 0.01%/m/m for OO and ON;
    Water content max 200 mg/kg;
    Kinematic viscosity for ON: min. 2.0, max 4.5 mm2/s at 40 degrees. C; for OO: max 6.0 at 20 degrees C;
    Faction composition:
    - up to 250 degrees C, it distills max. 65%/V/V
    - up to 350 degrees C, it distills max. 85%/V/V
    both parameters are identical for OO and ON
    Additionally, OO contains approximately 6 mg/l of markers: "Solvent Yellow 124" and "Solvent Red 164" or "Solvent Red 19". These are markers that color red to distinguish them from EO, which are neutralized by fraudsters with the famous method of adding sulfuric acid to OO.
    So much chemistry, I won`t comment for now, I leave the conclusions to the readers

    When it comes to cars, the older the engine, the more fish there is. In our translation, this means that all engines with high-pressure injection systems (common rail, DTI, TDi, Dti, Tdci or whatever they are called), due to the difference in the main parameter, i.e. density, are exposed to higher fuel pressures in the injection system than those provided by the manufacturer. I leave the conclusions.
    When it comes to older generation systems, the so-called low pressure, the only difference is the viscosity parameter. The older the generation of the system, the less important it is.
    However, what will be refueled in real life will be another thing. Even if we accidentally pour pure OO into a state-of-the-art engine
    the effects of this will be negligible, as if we drove to the diesel dispenser and there we poured OO decolorized with sulfuric acid and lime neutralizers into the tank.

    The entire argument applies only to light fuel oils sold in the country. Heavy fuel oils or those coming from beyond the eastern border (heavy or with huge sulfur content) are a different story.
    uff, did anyone read to the end? and he didn`t die of boredom?

    I will only add that it is a quote.
    Regards
    Łukasz Dolega
  • #17 2226298
    RAFALN
    Level 13  
    Hello
    I saw such a stove, now in these frosts it was hot in the garage (garage about 20 m2, windows and doors not tight). The furnace is 1 m high and 45 cm wide, a cylinder made of 4 mm sheet metal. oil is supplied in the upper part and drips onto the pan. The bowl is attached 20 cm from the bottom.
    Oil dripping is regulated by a valve attached to the barrel with used oil (the barrel is of course higher and connected to the side with a rubber hose, but there is a copper pipe near the stove). The main difficulty in making it is the appropriate number of holes in the furnace, there are about 30 of them, diameter 6 mm, they are located all over the furnace. Ignition takes place in a bowl with 1/3 oil and the rest wood and paper. When the oil catches fire, the valve is unscrewed. The guy who has this stove doesn`t even see any smoke coming out of the chimney. I can take photos when I visit him.
  • #18 2226324
    Słomiński Tadeusz
    Level 11  
    The question for Łukasz Dolega was about how to build a waste oil furnace. Comment for Łukasz Dolega "WHAT DOES GINGERBREAD HAVE TO DO WITH A WINDMILL?" We are talking about soup and you are talking about scientific arguments that are completely off topic. Nevertheless, I greet you and wish you further success in your scientific work.
  • #19 2226697
    Tommy82
    Level 41  
    I saw such a stove and it worked quite well, and it didn`t smoke because it burned out in the chimney.

    It looked similar to a standard goat, except that there were no doors at the bottom, just a roller, a lock from the top, a chimney at the back, an elbow, so far it was quite standard.
    but it had a second pipe going up, about 70 cm to the chimney (connected to the chimney slightly higher than the chimney)
    and above it in the chimney there are 4 "gills" cut out on both sides
    The working process looked like this
    wasted oil was pouring out, or basically what to worry about
    you threw in a rag dipped in meringue and set it on fire, when everything started to burn, you closed it and waited for a while for the salt to heat everything up and then you put fire under the gills
    and that`s where the exhaust gases were combusted with fresh air, only transparent smoke and heat from hell
    we do the gills on a standard chimney flue by cutting the flrx and bending the upper part outwards and bending the lower part towards the center, making something like a venturi, like a "carburetor"
  • #20 2228161
    Słomiński Tadeusz
    Level 11  
    Tommy82 thanks for the information, but still not enough information to make the furnace. This is about precise details about the construction, how to feed used oil, the structure of the burner, air supply, flame maintenance system (some kind of plate in the shape of a frying pan????). I still don`t know anything, I`m waiting, maybe someone can advise me. Regards .
  • #21 2228796
    Tommy82
    Level 41  
    the oven is very simple, in the version I saw it was filled 1/3 with oil
    then a rag soaked in something that burns is "better" no oil dispensing
    there is no burner
    air supply through a hole with a variable inlet (standard cap at the top)
    I saw such a stove working for 2 days because it was a makeshift solution until the service arrived at the oil repair shop.
    the stove was basically very primitive, but it seemed interesting to me because of the patent of afterburning the exhaust gases in the chimney, which increases its "ecological efficiency" without putting a fire to the gills, it smoked like crazy and after ignition, there was a second flame in the chimney at this point, which combusted exhaust fumes and it worked great
    It seems to me that due to the lack of oil dosing in this furnace, only the structure or the concept of burning exhaust gases in the chimney should be used.
    For example, replacing the "gills" with a jet fan (though probably more of a jet pump) where the chimney draft would cause fresh air to be sucked in, or even a system similar to a mixer from LPG engines and supplying air under light pressure, then a second chamber could be used in the "chimney" where the combustion to remove the exhaust gases and put them there to recover some of the heat, e.g. heaters
  • #22 2229682
    Słomiński Tadeusz
    Level 11  
    This is indeed an unconventional idea, but wouldn`t it be much better if, through the appropriate supply of air, oil and regulation of the combustion process, everything burned inside the furnace? The problem is how to do it amateurishly. Trial and error is too risky and time-consuming. Such furnaces are produced by craftsmen, but the exact construction description is kept secret. Regards
  • #23 2233501
    Inkwizycja
    Level 30  
    For anyone interested in the topic, I suggest reviewing the description of oil-powered furnaces. They are equipped with evaporative burners that are easy to make at home. Sorry for the shift in the first drawing, but that`s how I scanned it :D
    Attachments:
  • #24 2235370
    mjulek
    Level 12  
    Everything`s cool!! But the question arises? What if you leave such a stove in the workshop and you want to go home, for example for the night? It is known that such a stove must be supervised at all times because it may overflow and the oil will leak onto the floor through the air holes and the workshop will catch fire, or in a better case it will go out, but then the workshop will be as cold as a kennel!!!
    HAS ANYONE THINKED ABOUT MAINTENANCE-FREE CONTROL OF SUCH A STOVE (it turns on, you can go, and it regulates the temperature in the room itself)?
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #25 2244100
    vivaford
    Level 12  
    Very interesting, but you want to discover something that was discovered a long time ago, for pennies you can buy a boiler with a fuel oil burner, modify it properly and you are ready, the advantage is that you have some protection and the efficiency of the device is at least 80%, heavy oil requires heating and proper injection.
  • #26 2244161
    gumarobert
    Level 2  
    I HAVE A STOVE MADE IN GERMAN
    IT WORKS WITH NO PROBLEM, BUT I WOULD LIKE TO INSTALL A FAN
    TO INCREASE HEATING EFFICIENCY
    HOW TO DO IT
    WHERE TO INSTALL THE AIR AIR FLOWER
  • #27 2244257
    Słomiński Tadeusz
    Level 11  
    Thanks for the "constructive" and cool advice: "buy it, remake it." The only question is where, how, for how much and that`s what this forum is about!!!! For advice like if you want... then buy it... thank you very much.
  • #28 2244374
    gumarobert
    Level 2  
    SORRY, FRIEND
    BUT I JUST WANTED A TIP
    MAYBE SOMEONE KNOWS WHAT

    Added after 5 [minutes]:

    I HAVE A WORKSHOP WITH AN AREA OF 50 m2
    I WOULD LIKE TO HEAT IT CHEAPLY
    AND THAT`S WHY I`M ASKING ABOUT THE POSSIBILITY OF IMPROVING THE FUEL OIL STOVE BY INCREASING EFFICIENCY

    Do not use GREAT letters!
  • #29 2374340
    ja.behemot
    Level 1  
    c_04 wrote:
    Hello
    I have a problem how to build it... how to solve the burner?? it doesn`t necessarily have to be with nozzles
    Regards


    I saw a very simple stove in the workshop. It had a cuboid (standing paving slab :) . The burner was a channel-shaped trough, about 0.5 m long. The oil flowed into it without pre-heating. It was lit with gasoline.
  • #30 2535156
    grzegorzsa
    Level 11  
    You are describing some old pre-war technologies here. I managed to make a waste oil burner that lights up automatically depending on the temperature in the apartment. I will also add that I installed it in the fireplace because I had no other place to heat it. I heat a 100 m2 apartment with it. Interestingly, there is practically no smoke coming from the chimney and the fire is bright yellow and blue. I am attaching a picture of the working furnace. The cost of doing something like this is not great and can be done in one day.

    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic321550-120.html#2535145

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the feasibility of converting a German fuel oil furnace to operate on waste oil for garage heating. Users share experiences and methods, suggesting that it is possible to use waste oil if it is added from the top to avoid clogging. Various designs are mentioned, including a system where oil drips onto a heated plate, and the importance of maintaining proper combustion to minimize smoke emissions. Concerns about ecological impact and legal implications of using waste oil are raised, alongside technical inquiries about burner construction and efficiency improvements. Some participants describe successful homemade solutions and modifications to existing stoves, emphasizing the need for careful design to ensure safety and efficiency.
Summary generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT