FAQ
TL;DR: 20 °C thermostat drift was recorded, and "These 20 degrees are not the fault of the thermostat itself" [Elektroda, magir, post #16974876]; cleaning the cooling duct/fan and swapping the thermostat (~PLN 50) fixed overheating for several posters [Elektroda, Thread].
Why it matters: Persistent panel heat can destroy the touch-display and cost ≥PLN 150 in parts.
Quick Facts
• Replacement main thermostat: PLN 45-60 [Elektroda, magir, post #16953320]
• Service call-out only: PLN 200 [Elektroda, Tr1SH, post #16952837]
• Full service quote (thermostat + selector): PLN 400 [Elektroda, Tr1SH, post #16974772]
• Acceptable temperature hysteresis: ±20 °C [Elektroda, zibi1971, post #16977636]
• Fan type: single-speed axial, ~30 W, no speed control [Elektroda, magir, post #16979920]
Why does the Amica EBI 8562 AA top panel overheat after baking?
Heat rises through the front cooling channel; if the fan stops and ducts leak, hot air stalls under the touch display. Dust, bent sheet-metal or a slow fan reduce airflow, so stored heat exits through the panel instead of the grille [Elektroda, magir, post #16978108]
Should the cooling fan keep running after I switch the oven off?
No. In this model the fan is wired with the lamp; it cuts when the selector returns to "0". Leaving the function knob on and thermostat at "0 °C" keeps the fan running for post-bake cooling [Elektroda, magir, post #16978108]
How can I test if the main thermostat is faulty?
Set 150 °C, place an oven thermometer centre-rack, and note cut-off/on points. A 20 °C swing is normal; larger gaps indicate failure. One user saw 225 °C when 180 °C was set [Elektroda, nowszy1234567, post #17234480]
What is the cost and difficulty of replacing the thermostat myself?
The part costs ~PLN 50 and is held by two screws plus capillary clip. Pull the oven, disconnect mains, swap part, refit capillary into the same guide. Time: 30-40 min with basic screwdrivers [Elektroda, Tr1SH, post #16974772]
Where is the thermal cut-out and what does it do?
A white snap-disc switch sits on a rear bracket. If the thermostat sticks, this cut-out kills power to all heaters around 300 °C, preventing pyrolysis-level temperatures [Elektroda, magir, post #16979920]
Could a blocked cooling duct damage the touchscreen?
Yes. Prolonged 100 °C surface temperatures warp the PCB; one forum member reported random beeps and self-activations after such exposure [Elektroda, Tr1SH, post #16952837]
How do I check whether a heater is stuck on due to a faulty selector?
- Set light only, 100 °C.
- Measure 230 V between selector terminals 1-2, 1-3, 3-4, 5-6.
- Voltage on any pair equals an energised heater; replace the selector if voltage appears in the wrong mode [Elektroda, magir, post #16980849]
How can I safely lubricate the cooling fan?
Remove the fan, clean blades, add one drop of 250 °C-rated synthetic oil to each bush. Spin by hand until free, then reinstall. "It certainly won't be worse" [Elektroda, magir, post #16974876]
What temperature swing (hysteresis) is normal for this oven?
A ±20 °C difference between set and actual temperature is within design limits, according to Amica owners and service input [Elektroda, zibi1971, post #16977636]
How do I remove the front knobs without damage?
Wrap the shaft with masking tape, grip the knob sides, and pull straight out—no screws hold it. A user replaced the programmer after knob removal on the twin model [Elektroda, wojtek__, post #17015112]
What edge-case failures have owners reported?
An overheated EMI filter solder joint on the clock PCB caused spontaneous alarms and time resets [Elektroda, nowszy1234567, post #17245755]
3-step diagnostic: Is airflow the real issue?
- Bake at 200 °C with oven pulled 10 cm out of cabinetry.
- Measure grille exhaust; it should feel warm, not scalding.
- If panel stays cool, enclosure airflow or door seal—not electronics—is at fault [Elektroda, magir, post #16975202]