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Circular Saw Blade Issue: Engine Starts but Blade Doesn't Rotate, Stops During Cutting

siejson 22638 17
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  • #1 16968114
    siejson
    Level 10  
    Hello, I have a problem with my chainsaw. Well, the saw switches on, the engine starts and the disc stands still, it only starts after a while, but any cutting attempt ends with the disc stops.
    As if something was loose.
    The shield from the outside holds well to the base, it is quite unscrewed
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  • #2 16968121
    RADU23
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    What kind of saw is it? He did not provide a model colleague or any photo.
  • #3 16968144
    henrykS
    Level 20  
    siejson wrote:
    (...) is quite unscrewed


    Maybe tighten properly?
  • #4 16968177
    siejson
    Level 10  
    This is a regular Tesco chainsaw does not go crazy, but I did not exploit it too much
    It is tightened to the maximum
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  • #5 16968178
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
    Tightening here will do nothing. The connection between the motor shaft and the blade shaft is probably damaged. Not knowing what model this is, we will not invent here anymore.
    We wrote simultaneously. The name of the chainsaw from Tesco will not give us anything. Please provide some data and a photo.
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  • #6 16968187
    henrykS
    Level 20  
    Sometimes when the saw (blade) is thin, the clamps cannot tighten it. Look carefully for a gap.
  • #7 16968211
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
    henrykS wrote:
    Sometimes when the saw (blade) is thin, the clamps cannot tighten it. Look carefully for a gap.

    I do not know if your attention accidentally does not apply to the angle grinder discs because we have different thickness discs for it. As for the saw, it's probably not so. I may be wrong but I have a few different saw blades (ordinary saw blade) and the main part of the saw blade is of the same thickness. Here, I suspect a combination of engine and shaft on which the shield is mounted. I met with different ways of joining a wedge, a self-locking coupling, and a spline.
  • #8 16968213
    siejson
    Level 10  
    The bolt in which the shield fixing screw is screwed is loose
    That is, when I turn on the saw, the engine turns, holding the finger behind the pin stands still
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  • #9 17013002
    wiesiekmisiek
    Level 33  
    The gearing is now without teeth. Szrot. It is not profitable to repair because the rotor costs at least 60 PLN plus a gear around 15 PLN. The whole new saw is a cost. about PLN 120 You have to spin it, but it's probably as I write. You buy a new one, you give it fire, and if something falls apart, you give it to the market or you need to add some money and buy some profi.
  • #10 17013325
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
    wiesiekmisiek wrote:
    The gearing is now without teeth. Szrot.

    Don't discourage the author right away. Maybe something will not be taught on such equipment. For science, I give - I do not know whether this model is exactly but it is enough for science.
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  • #11 17013965
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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  • #12 17014000
    wojtek1234321
    Level 36  
    101pawel wrote:
    I do not know why you conclude that the saw has a gear, usually the most powerful element of similar power tools.

    In chainsaws of a similar type, the gear on the rotor axis is most often used, in my opinion it is too delicate for the loads it carries and "works out" too quickly.
    So for example this (red arrow):

    Circular Saw Blade Issue: Engine Starts but Blade Doesn't Rotate, Stops During Cutting


    At the same time damaging the mode of meshing with it.
    Checked "visually", for several years using similar devices (four out of four have just lost their drive in this way, the fourth lost the brush holder, overheated and finally "melted" plastics), but it's not a pity because they did.
  • #13 17014054
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #14 17014138
    wiesiekmisiek
    Level 33  
    siejson wrote:
    This is an ordinary Tesco chainsaw also does not go crazy, but I did not use it somehow hard
    It is tightened maximally

    Not exploited so much or actually? For those 600 Watt and basically small swabs (because now there is a mania of overexposure by manufacturers, it is known from which country) must be a very sharp shield. We start cutting only when the saw reaches maximum revolutions, we introduce the saw into the material slowly and continue to listen to the work of the saw. We do not press the engine to slow down. All you need to do is hit the material several times with the saw blade when the engine starts and it is already sweeping. I know what I write because for a long time I have used this tool for a long time and I started with Lithuanian with a capacity of 2 KW which today is still functional and aged in the workshop closet due to sentiment.
    If these cutters rotate on the rotor, the cost of the rotor itself is known.
    But rightly someone noticed that without demolition it can only be predicted, although I bet on my and colleagues' diagnosis at 100%. Before the wedge breaks down, the teeth will fly in several drive units.
    Col. Paweł, I answer - my conclusions are taken from experience acquired through long use of power tools in carpentry.
  • #15 17015261
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
    wojtek1234321 wrote:
    In chainsaws of a similar type, the gear on the rotor axis is most often used, in my opinion it is too delicate for the loads it carries and "works out" too quickly.
    So for example this (red arrow):
    Circular Saw Blade Issue: Engine Starts but Blade Doesn't Rotate, Stops During Cutting

    I am not sure if there is such a transmission as you can see there. In my connector there is a schematic diagram of this type of chainsaws. Sprocket # 2 in the diagram has rather straight teeth, which would suggest a different way of transmission. We will not know anything more until the author answers here and writes us whether he has already undressed the saw or there is no time for such an action.
  • #16 17015382
    wojtek1234321
    Level 36  
    ta_tar wrote:
    Sprocket # 2 in the diagram has rather straight teeth, which would suggest a different way of transmission.

    Maybe you are right, which does not change the fact that all these saws of this type are based on a very similar gear model. As you can see in the drawings, is this an example (drawing) of an unknown brand.

    Circular Saw Blade Issue: Engine Starts but Blade Doesn't Rotate, Stops During Cutting


    Is even Makita as in the following (attachment) service pdf and website with parts.

    https://gtxservice.pl/czesci/czesci-zamienne-...arczowych/pilarka-tarczowa-makita-hs7100.html

    This rack also meshes / works with a small rack on the rotor axis, which you cannot see in this attachment and the damage may be the same. The fact that it has straight teeth is only less comfortable because the transmission is louder and vibrates more.
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  • #17 21113008
    Wujek lutek
    Level 14  
    Do colleagues perhaps know where I can buy a shuttle key nr. org 5131032545 for the RTS1800 saw?
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  • #18 21332149
    miszapopiel1
    Level 1  
    >>16968211 .
    Just to add, saw blades are of different thicknesses
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion addresses a chainsaw issue where the engine starts but the blade remains stationary initially and stops during cutting attempts, suggesting a mechanical disconnection or transmission failure. The saw is identified as a basic Tesco chainsaw, with the blade mounting bolt and shield fixing screw found loose. Tightening the external parts does not resolve the problem, indicating likely damage or wear in the connection between the motor shaft and blade shaft, such as a worn gear, damaged shuttle key, or coupling failure. Various transmission types are considered, including wedge, self-locking coupling, spline, and gear with straight teeth. Visual inspection and disassembly are recommended to diagnose the exact cause. Repair may be uneconomical due to the cost of replacement parts like rotors and gears compared to the price of a new saw. Similar issues are noted in comparable power tools where delicate gear components fail under load. References to saw blade thickness and compatibility are made, emphasizing the importance of correct blade fitting. Additional resources include schematic diagrams and service parts for brands like Makita, illustrating typical gear mechanisms. A separate query about sourcing a shuttle key for an RTS1800 saw is also mentioned.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Budget circular saws often lose blade drive due to worn rotor–gear interfaces; one user saw 4 out of 4 fail this way, and the small gear "works out too quickly." Diagnose spindle/gear wear rather than just tightening the nut. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #17014000] Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIYers quickly pinpoint no-rotation or stalling causes and decide fix vs. replace on low-cost saws.

Quick Facts

Why does my circular saw motor spin but the blade won’t rotate?

A slipping drive between the motor and blade hub is likely. If the spindle bolt or pin can be held still while the motor runs, the internal drive has lost engagement. That points to a worn or loose spindle-to-hub interface rather than the outer flange nut. [Elektroda, siejson, post #16968213]

How do I quickly diagnose a no-rotation or stalling blade?

  1. Unplug and remove the blade.
  2. Open the gear case and inspect the spindle–gear joint for looseness, missing key, or damaged rivets.
  3. Check for shuttle/key wear or deformed rivets on the drive hub, then reassemble with known-good parts. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17013965]

Will tightening the blade nut fix a slipping blade?

No. If the internal coupling is damaged, tightening the flange does nothing. As one expert put it, "Tightening here will do nothing." Focus on the motor-to-spindle connection instead and inspect the gearbox. [Elektroda, ta_tar, post #16968178]

Can a thin saw blade slip in the clamping flanges?

Yes, thin blades can fail to grip if the clamping faces don’t contact properly. Check for a visible gap and use the correct flanges or a proper bushing to ensure full contact and torque transfer. [Elektroda, henrykS, post #16968187]

What usually fails inside budget saws that causes stalling?

The small gear on the rotor shaft and its mate often wear out, leading to lost drive under load. One user reported 4 of 4 similar saws lost drive this way, adding the pinion "works out too quickly." [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #17014000]

What is a shuttle/keyed joint on a saw spindle?

It’s a mechanical key that locks the gear or hub to the spindle to transmit torque. Some designs use a solid key, tubular rivets, or press-fit splines. Wear or shearing here allows the motor to spin while the blade stalls. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17013965]

Is repair or replacement more cost-effective for this failure?

For low-cost models, replacement often wins. Example figures shared: rotor ~60 PLN, gear ~15 PLN, while a new saw can be ~120 PLN. If both gears are worn, parts and time exceed the tool’s value. [Elektroda, wiesiekmisiek, post #17013002]

How should I cut to prevent blade stall on a 600 W class saw?

Use a sharp blade, let the motor reach maximum RPM, feed slowly, and avoid forcing the cut. Overloading slows the motor and accelerates gear wear. "We start cutting only when the saw reaches maximum revolutions." [Elektroda, wiesiekmisiek, post #17014138]

Do higher-end brands use the same type of gearing?

Yes, many sidewinder designs, including examples like the Makita HS7100, use a small rotor pinion driving a larger gear. Straight-tooth meshes are common and noisier but simple, and they still wear if overloaded. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #17015382]

The spindle bolt or pin spins freely—what does that indicate?

If you can hold the spindle pin still while the motor runs, the internal drive has slipped. Expect a stripped coupling, damaged key, or worn gear teeth. Plan on teardown and parts replacement to restore torque transfer. [Elektroda, siejson, post #16968213]

Where can I get a shuttle key (org. 5131032545) for an RTS1800 saw?

Search by the OEM number and spindle assembly name, then match the shuttle/key profile during teardown. That part relates to the spindle–gear connection style discussed, so confirm the joint type before ordering. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17013965]

Are all circular saw blades the same thickness?

No. Blades come in different kerf and plate thicknesses, which affects clamping and load. Use flanges suited to your blade to ensure secure drive and accurate cuts, especially on lower-power saws. [Elektroda, miszapopiel1, post #21332149]

What edge failures should I watch for after repeated stalls?

Look for melted brush holders, overheated plastics, or deformed gear teeth after heavy bogging. One report noted a brush holder overheated and plastics finally melted after drive loss and overload incidents. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #17014000]

How do I confirm if the gear teeth are gone without special tools?

Open the gear housing and rotate the motor by hand while holding the spindle. If rotation doesn’t transfer smoothly or jumps, the pinion or ring gear is worn. Replace the damaged gear pair as a set. [Elektroda, wiesiekmisiek, post #17013002]

Does over-tightening the flange risk damage?

Over-tightening won’t restore a failed internal drive and can warp the blade or mar flanges. Address the actual fault inside the gearbox instead of increasing clamp torque. "Tightening here will do nothing." [Elektroda, ta_tar, post #16968178]
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