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[Solved] Skoda Octavia II - Power consumption 0.63A discharges my new battery

mateusz1065 40095 17
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  • #1 16979948
    mateusz1065
    Level 9  
    Hi, I have a problem with octavia 2 for some time it takes me electricity and discharges the battery after checking the meter set to 20A showed 0.63A on all fuses:
    Skoda Octavia II - Power consumption 0.63A discharges my new battery
    After pulling out everyone showed 0.37A and I put it in turn and it turned out that:
    Fuse 12 consumes 0.6A
    Fuse 15 takes 0.18A
    Fuse 23 draws 0.5A
    The fuse 24 takes 0.3 A
    Skoda Octavia II - Power consumption 0.63A discharges my new battery
    it's strange because after pulling out all of them comes out 0.37 and after adding those that get 0.69A out and 0.63A on the meter
    where can it download these 0.37A (and maybe someone predicts where the faults are from these fuses (I will add that the lock closes and opens everything without a problem the glass works well also I can check the lights and the lighter have a radio CB

    And maybe here he gets those 0.37A (can these fuses also be checked?
    Skoda Octavia II - Power consumption 0.63A discharges my new battery Skoda Octavia II - Power consumption 0.63A discharges my new battery
    maybe someone has a diagram for these relays and fuses?
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  • #2 16979967
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    Oh, my friend, a meter on the 20A range shows 63A, you better not touch the car before you blow something up.
    Do you have any idea what kind of current is your "63A"?
    There is no chance for such a current, if it is already 6.3A.
  • #3 16980005
    mateusz1065
    Level 9  
    spinacz wrote:
    Oh, my friend, a meter on the 20A range shows 63A, you better not touch the car before you blow something up.
    Do you have any idea what kind of current is your "63A"?
    There is no chance for such a current, if it is already 6.3A.

    I think that this portal is from helping each other and not making fun of mistakes
  • #4 16980023
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    Well now tell me how much it takes as soon as the car is asleep.
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  • #5 16980192
    lukasrsv
    Level 20  
    Do not have any devices / circuits connected to the "left" to the battery pole?
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  • #6 16980200
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    After all, the photo already shows that it has something attached after the original installation.
    The first measurement of current on a dormant car.
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  • #7 16980208
    lukasrsv
    Level 20  
    After this, after reconnecting the power supply, you need to wait until the current drops to a state where all capacitors in electronics etc. will be charged.
  • #8 16980221
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    lukasrsv wrote:
    wait until the current drops to the state where all the capacitors charge
    What ???
    Do you know how long it takes to charge the capacitor? What are you writing for nonsense.
    Wait for you after closing the car until sleep modules, for example, the door, radio only then you have the quiescent current of the car and all components know that the car is closed and they do not take electricity.
    Did you mention a radio or was something done that the battery started to discharge?
  • #9 16980306
    lukasrsv
    Level 20  
    With these capacitors it was so metaphorical so do not get out. :)
  • #10 16980476
    Ireneo
    Level 42  
    lukasrsv wrote:
    With these capacitors it was so metaphorical so do not get out. :)

    This is not a portal for metaphors. The author can also check the errors. Once, as he suggested, under the hood. Let them write how much he waits.
  • #11 16981824
    mateusz1065
    Level 9  
    spinacz wrote:
    After all, the photo already shows that it has something attached after the original installation.
    The first measurement of current on a dormant car.


    so on sleep, or after a few minutes, it shows 0.63A on the 20A range

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    rather, only an alarm when it comes to these two very thin cables connected to the strip

    Added after 4 [minutes]:

    spinacz wrote:
    lukasrsv wrote:
    wait until the current drops to the state where all the capacitors charge
    What ???
    Do you know how long it takes to charge the capacitor? What are you writing for nonsense.
    Wait for you after closing the car until sleep modules, for example, the door, radio only then you have the quiescent current of the car and all components know that the car is closed and they do not take electricity.
    Did you mention a radio or was something done that the battery started to discharge?

    yes for every time I waited for the car to sleep for about 2 minutes and then it fell to 0.63A only CB radio was plugged in, but it's been a long time and no problem was not

    Added after 4 [minutes]:

    Ireneo wrote:
    lukasrsv wrote:
    With these capacitors it was so metaphorical so do not get out. :)

    This is not a portal for metaphors. The author can also check the errors. Once, as he suggested, under the hood. Let them write how much he waits.


    it's about those fuses under the hood?
    and after closing the door I wait about 2min until the current drops and then it shows 0.63A
  • #12 16981860
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    Mateusz, come on better to some kumaty electrician, let him do it. Do not be offended, but as I read these substantive statements, I come to the conclusion that you will damage yourself by plucking up the installation. And you probably would not want a fire ...
  • #13 17347278
    pompon78
    Level 2  
    Hello
    I repeat the topic because I suggested what he wrote a paperclip ... after exchanging the radio in my skin unloads my aku to me and I have a problem with firing in the morning..is it possible? electrician said that it is the main computer. the magician said that it is everything is connected and puts on the radio .... let's see in the morning ... unless someone has some idea
  • #14 17347301
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    The radio you exchanged for? Not sometimes serial to newer serial np from navi? Maybe the car does not fall asleep, and here's the problem, maybe the CAN gate is too old for the new radio if it's serial.
  • #15 17347321
    pompon78
    Level 2  
    The radio is inserted with a large display..which to the model is how to bring from the mechanic I will give it ... I change from before it was navi radio and the guest changed before selling for me for the same but without navigation..and from that began to problems with ac

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    And if it's too old for a new radio, can you do something about it?
  • #16 17347327
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    And it is possible that the problem is only a badly coded gate.
  • #17 17347340
    pompon78
    Level 2  
    inserting some module as mechanic stated will solve the problem ... and they said a nice car take it ...
  • #18 17355798
    pompon78
    Level 2  
    Hello again..prąd escaped because the radio was taking .. after inserting the module and uploading the program everything returned to normal ..
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a power consumption issue in a Skoda Octavia II, where the user reports a battery discharge problem with a measured current draw of 0.63A when the vehicle is in sleep mode. Various fuses were tested, revealing significant current draws from specific fuses (Fuse 12: 0.6A, Fuse 15: 0.18A, Fuse 23: 0.5A, Fuse 24: 0.3A). Participants suggest checking for additional devices connected to the battery and emphasize the importance of allowing the car to enter sleep mode before measuring current. A follow-up reveals that the problem may be linked to a recently installed radio, which could be causing excessive power draw. Solutions discussed include consulting an electrician and ensuring proper coding of the vehicle's systems to accommodate the new radio.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A 6.3A draw can roast a battery fast; “a meter on the 20A range shows 63A” is a misread—measure correctly first. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #16979967]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps Skoda Octavia II owners diagnose and fix parasitic drain, especially after radio or alarm changes.

Quick Facts

Why is my Octavia II battery draining with 0.63A draw?

A 0.63A quiescent draw is excessive. The thread cases point to awake modules, aftermarket alarm/CB wiring, or radio retrofit issues. Start by confirming the current once the car is fully asleep, then isolate using fuses. Focus on circuits showing measurable draw, like fuses 12, 15, 23, and 24 in the case data. [Elektroda, mateusz1065, post #16979948]

How do I measure parasitic draw correctly on a dormant car?

Close doors, lock the car, and wait for sleep. As one expert put it, “The first measurement of current on a dormant car.” Use a series ammeter at the battery negative, without waking modules. If you reconnect power, allow the current to settle before reading. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #16980200]

Which fuses should I check first for unexpected current?

Use data from the case: fuse 12 showed 0.6A, fuse 23 0.5A, fuse 24 0.3A, and fuse 15 0.18A. Pull and replace one at a time to see which circuit drops the draw. Log each change to identify the guilty circuit. [Elektroda, mateusz1065, post #16979948]

Could aftermarket alarms or a CB radio cause battery drain?

Yes. The OP’s car had thin alarm wires on the battery strip and a CB radio. Such add-ons can keep modules awake or add constant loads. Temporarily disconnect non‑OEM devices to test. If current drops, rewire through ignition-switched power or use proper CAN‑aware interfaces. [Elektroda, mateusz1065, post #16981824]

My car shows 0.63A after 2 minutes. Should I wait longer?

Yes. Two minutes may be too short for all modules to sleep. Wait until current stabilizes at its lowest value before diagnosing. Avoid opening doors or waking the network during tests, or the reading becomes invalid. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #16980221]

I changed the radio and now the battery dies. Is the radio the culprit?

Likely. A newer head unit can prevent sleep if the CAN gateway is incompatible or coding is wrong. One case improved after fitting a module and programming. A specialist can code the gateway or add the correct interface. [Elektroda, pompon78, post #17355798]

What is a CAN bus and CAN gateway on the Octavia II?

CAN bus is the car’s data network linking modules. The CAN gateway routes messages and controls sleep. If the gateway is older than a retrofitted radio, the radio can keep the network awake, causing drain. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #17347301]

Do I need coding after a radio retrofit?

Often, yes. A “badly coded gate” can keep the car awake. Proper coding aligns the gateway and radio so the network sleeps when locked. Ask a VAG specialist to scan, code, and verify sleep status. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #17347327]

What fixed a confirmed Octavia II parasitic draw in this thread?

A user resolved the drain by inserting a module and uploading the correct program for the retrofitted radio. After that, the battery stopped discharging overnight. [Elektroda, pompon78, post #17355798]

Is reading 63A on the 20A meter range possible here?

No. That’s a misinterpretation. As the expert warned, “a meter on the 20A range shows 63A” is wrong; expect values like 6.3A or lower. Confirm your meter range and decimal placement. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #16979967]

How long should I wait after reconnecting the battery before trusting the reading?

Wait until current falls to the steady, low “sleep” value. Immediate readings reflect wake‑up activity. Measure only after modules sleep, per expert guidance. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #16980200]

Can a mechanic code the gateway to fix drain after a radio change?

Yes. The advisor noted the problem can be a “badly coded gate.” Correct coding or an interface module can restore proper sleep behavior and stop the drain. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #17347327]

Any quick 3‑step method to isolate the parasitic circuit?

  1. Measure quiescent current after the car sleeps.
  2. Pull one fuse at a time; note current change.
  3. Identify the circuit with the largest drop and inspect devices on it. [Elektroda, mateusz1065, post #16979948]

Should I inspect under‑hood relays or only cabin fuses?

Check both. The OP asked about under‑hood fuses, and add‑ons often connect at the battery. Inspect any non‑OEM leads first, then proceed to fuse isolation. [Elektroda, mateusz1065, post #16981824]

When should I stop and call an auto electrician?

If readings are unclear, wiring looks modified, or you’re unsure how to measure safely, seek help. One member warned that incorrect testing risks damage or fire. Safety and correct diagnosis come first. [Elektroda, yogi009, post #16981860]

What’s an example of an edge case that keeps current high?

A newer OEM radio on an older CAN gateway can prevent network sleep. The fix may require adding a compatibility module and programming, not just pulling fuses. [Elektroda, pompon78, post #17355798]
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