[Solved] Golf 5 Plus 2005: Front Door Closing Issues, Key & Remote Control, Burned Motors, Mechanic Insights

Hello, I have a golf 5 plus 2005. I have a problem when I close the car with the key, the front left and right doors do not close, while the rear door and the tailgate closes normally. And when I close the door with the key, only the front right door does not close. Well, my question is how can I deal with what could be the reason? I will add that when I had a car connected to the computer, the mechanic stated that the left door did not close with the remote control because some engine burned then the right one was still working normally.

Locks for repair, standard fault repair descriptions available on the internet.

It is also possible to damage the electrical harness, most often the wires in the area of the rubber "harmonica" between the door and the body break.

Hello. I warm up the topic because I see that I have a similar problem in my Golf V Plus from 2005 1.6 BLF but since it has not been resolved, there is probably no need to create a similar one (if it is please correct me)

When I lock it, either with the key or with the remote, I feel a "knock" on the lock but it does not close the door, so will it be the fault of the lock or the pull that leads from the handle to the lock? It's about the right-front door.

I ask before ordering the lock unnecessarily because closing with a "finger" (a small hole above the lock for emergency closing) has already started to annoy me after one day, and I do not want to undress the door unnecessarily twice because the car can not stand and ride without bacon - unsightly .

Maybe someone has already encountered a similar problem?

Normal fault in this VAG group, solder cold February in the lock and it will work normally (up to 80% of faults) or option 2 replace the lock.

What else colleague above may also be damage to the beam between the doors ..

This Saturday I'm getting on it.
I will take photos by the way and return with the problem by editing the post - I hope the soldering iron does everything. I will start with my own efforts because the stimulant 80-120 PLN

Thanks for the guidance.

When removing the lock from the front door (from the rear comes out alone), loosen the glass arm (about 1cm max) and the lock will come out alone (remembering that the glass is to be closed). Then unscrew the t20 torx, then the next t15 (I did it a few days backwards it seems like torxes, not my first repair from this group and I'm going with it from the machine) then the door opening pull rod (external) is deflected to the max and it will not fall down then you move 2 latches and the lock will come out of the metal casing by itself then T15 unscrew and solder. ATTENTION we should remember every activity we do and fold the same way and especially look at the tongue in plastic and the U-shaped metal cutout, otherwise the lock will lock and we will not open the door, so-called Czech error ...

cold February will be especially on the plugin but for sure I always go every micro contact, add photos normally without editing, because I don't always have time to read the same topic as there is no new reply.

Below is a video from the heart of the lock. The main reason for the failure of the "switchboard" is just a damaged motor or, as my speaker said, cold February and broken wiring at the door-post connection, you can also include the control system of these locks and a blown fuse.
In my case it turned out to be a broken engine, a replacement of 100-130 PLN, I managed to get the original for 210 PLN

[Film: a5a6c0ab95] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/28_1524920063.mp4 [/ film: a5a6c0ab95]
[Film: a5a6c0ab95] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/26_1524920129.mp4 [/ film: a5a6c0ab95]