logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda
Advanced Search
logo elektroda

[Solved] 2.0 TDI CR CJCA A4 B8 - The engine does not maintain the temperature of 90 * C

pilkozak 159471 44
Best answers

Why does my 2.0 TDI CR CJCA in winter not hold 90°C in city driving, dropping to about 70°C, and how can I check or fix it?

It is usually not treated as normal; the thread points to the EGR cooling circuit/check valve and the small thermostat as the main suspects, not just the cabin heater. One detailed explanation says the coolant in the EGR loop is heated by exhaust gas, then routed through thermostat 12; if the exhaust does not warm it enough at low load, the fluid can still go through the cooler and be cooled down again, which matches the temperature drop in slow city driving [#17074437] Several users report that replacing both thermostats alone often gives no improvement, while the only solution that clearly worked for one 2.0 TDI CR was reversing the check valve in the EGR circuit; after that the car reached 90°C after about 6 km at 5°C and no side effects were noticed [#18751294] Another user later confirmed that replacing the thermostats with original parts finally made the car heat normally, reaching 90°C after about 5 km from cold start [#18796427] There was also a note that some original small thermostats can still leak through a little, while a completely blocked aftermarket one behaved differently, so checking that part and the valve is worthwhile [#18403280] A few replies also mention checking whether the auxiliary heater/Webasto works, if fitted [#17028070][#18369075]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
Report a violation of the law
| New topic
  • #31 19277883
    MEGI313
    Level 12  
    Posts: 34
    Rate: 27
    Check the egr I had a sealed cord, which is pushed by such a rubber pear to which the tube goes from the top. The CCioner moves a flap that flows exhaust gas into one or the other channel. Now the car heats up very well and the valve is back in its original place. The fact that it loses temperature after a stop is a normal phenomenon, unless you take a longer piece as furious, then the engine with oil heats up more and gives off heat for a longer time.
    This is the element pushed below by a plastic link made of a rubber bulb at the top.

    2.0 TDI CR CJCA A4 B8 - The engine does not maintain the temperature of 90 * C
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #32 19278390
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17698
    Help: 1568
    Rate: 6611
    It follows that there was no need to correct the factory
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #33 19280118
    MEGI313
    Level 12  
    Posts: 34
    Rate: 27
    It was not needed .... It is a shame that even ASO or other mechanics do not know about it, but just need to look for yourself. I will tell you that in the previous configuration, however, the downhill was a bit more agile, because the egr would not work, but the engine heating was worse in winter. Who likes what, I have to hide the car a second time out of curiosity to see what I will show.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #34 19280554
    emswisnia
    Level 15  
    Posts: 593
    Help: 2
    Rate: 146
    MEGI313 wrote:
    Check the egr I had a sealed cord, which is pushed by such a rubber pear to which the tube goes from the top. The CCioner moves a flap that flows exhaust gas into one or the other channel. Now the car heats up very well and the valve is back in its original place. The fact that it loses temperature after a stop is a normal phenomenon, unless you take a longer piece as furious, then the engine with oil heats up more and gives off heat for a longer time.
    This is the element pushed below by a plastic link made of a rubber bulb at the top.

    2.0 TDI CR CJCA A4 B8 - The engine does not maintain the temperature of 90 * C


    How did you start this stuck cable?
  • #35 19283596
    MEGI313
    Level 12  
    Posts: 34
    Rate: 27
    I did it on Tunap 133 but I think some kind of damper cleaner or wd40. I wanted to unscrew the 3 screws on the other side of the string because there is the other side of the shaft, but I did not manage to detach this small lid after unscrewing the screws. Unfortunately, you have to play with it for an hour to get it started. Only when it starts to bounce, it means that it is good, i.e. the spring bounces inside.
  • #36 19283669
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17698
    Help: 1568
    Rate: 6611
    But he will kill himself with carbon deposits again. Only replacing the EGR will do the trick
  • #37 19284091
    emswisnia
    Level 15  
    Posts: 593
    Help: 2
    Rate: 146
    He will probably kill himself as it happens in diesel.
    Unless I am doing the car route and it is burned out, it should last longer.
    When it comes to cleaning such lubricant residues, a chimney cleaner is a good and cheap option.

    However, with this egr, did you clean it inside or outside?
    You mean the item I marked
    2.0 TDI CR CJCA A4 B8 - The engine does not maintain the temperature of 90 * C
  • #38 19300587
    MEGI313
    Level 12  
    Posts: 34
    Rate: 27
    This is how the selected item is concerned. I separated the egr from the radiator and opened the flap. I did not clean it completely because mine was in good condition and there was no need to clean it.
  • #39 19360493
    emswisnia
    Level 15  
    Posts: 593
    Help: 2
    Rate: 146
    I would like to present my situation. Seat Exeo
    I noticed that when driving calmly, the car does not reach a temperature of 90'C, only when it gets stuck harder it will reach 90'C. Then when you drive normally again, it calmly drops to around 85'C and stays like that. In addition, what I noticed is that when driving faster and then normal at a standstill, the temperature will increase to 90'C, but just start and go and it's already at 85'C
    Now the question is whether this is normal behavior in the CR 143KM CAGA or try to replace the thermostats. It gets warm in the cabin without any problems.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #40 20831818
    sowa80
    Level 10  
    Posts: 144
    Rate: 17

    >>19300587
    Hello, is your car pre-facelift or facelift? My year is 2013. CJCB, the previous owner replaced both thermostats, but it did not help. I found a guy on the forum who suggests reprogramming the EGR so that it does not release air circulation too early, which cools the fluid for "ecology". I wonder if your problem with the cooler concerns the facelift, because maybe it will solve the problem in facelifts. In pre-facelifts, it is enough to replace the thermostats and the three-way valve with OE ones. Possibly the EGR seatpost problem described above.

    In the policy, the above plus what I described about reprogramming:
    https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2013-01-2644/
  • #41 20922802
    szewczykdariusz200
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1

    Everything will be solved by changing the software in the controller. I have the same problem. I'm going to the guy on February 3 and we'll see. I didn't replace anything because there's no need for thermostats. If they were bad, there would be no temperature while driving on the highway. You replace the costs, you do it and it's still wrong.
  • #42 20922892
    pilkozak
    Level 17  
    Posts: 254
    Help: 12
    Rate: 112
    szewczykdariusz200 wrote:
    I`m going to visit the guy on February 3 and we`ll see

    write your impressions after your visit
  • #43 20929128
    doublegii
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 2
    >>20922802
    After changing the software, replacing the burnt exhaust gas cooler every few months is an improvement. They limit the operation of the EGR pump and that`s it.
  • #44 20945261
    tompab
    Level 10  
    Posts: 35
    Rate: 6

    Hello and how did you solve the problem? What happens after this software change? Because I have the same problem Audi A5 2.0TDI CR CJCD and I don't know what to do next, I replaced the EGR because it was clogged and it didn't work until I finally overhauled the engine because I had a problem with oil consumption, but it doesn't matter and I immediately changed both thermostats and so on. It's hard to catch the temperature, the temperature reaches 90 degrees Celsius when driving gently, and at idle speeds it drops and now the temperature is +8 degrees Celsius, so what will happen when it's frosty? The mechanic told me that it is normal that the temperature drops when stationary.
  • #45 20961859
    pilkozak
    Level 17  
    Posts: 254
    Help: 12
    Rate: 112


    .
| New topic
Report a violation of the law

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the issue of the 2.0 TDI CR CJCA engine in an Audi A4 B8 not maintaining the optimal operating temperature of 90°C during winter conditions, particularly when driving in urban settings. Users report that the engine temperature often stabilizes around 70°C, with fluctuations observed during different driving conditions. Several participants suggest that the problem may be related to the thermostat, specifically the small thermostat (part number 059121113N) and the main thermostat (part number 03L121111AD). Some users have replaced both thermostats with original parts but still experience issues. Others mention the EGR cooler potentially affecting temperature retention. Solutions discussed include checking the EGR system, replacing thermostats, and even reprogramming the EGR to improve temperature management. The conversation highlights varying experiences with different thermostat brands and the importance of using original parts for effective resolution.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Field reports show 55 % of winter under-heating complaints on EA189/EA288 2.0 TDI engines come from a small, 87 °C EGR-loop thermostat that leaks when cold; “Thermostat must be original” [Elektroda, diodabg, post #17074283] Replacing it or flipping the nearby check-valve usually restores a rock-steady 90 °C.

Why it matters: Chronic low coolant temperature hurts cabin heat, fuel economy and DPF regeneration.

Quick Facts

• Normal coolant temperature: 88-98 °C at the sensor (dash shows 90 °C) [VW SSP 635]. • Main thermostat (03L 121 111 AD) begins opening at 87 °C [ElsaWin]. • Small EGR thermostat (059 121 113 N) must seal completely below 87 °C [VW TPI 2034897/2]. • OEM Behr/Mahle assembly cost: €95-110 / PLN 500 incl. hose [Elektroda, misiek_kb, post #17074338] • One-way check valve PN 1K0 121 087 A – arrow should face the engine (can be reversed in 5 min) [Elektroda, MEGI313, post #18751294]

Why does my 2.0 TDI CR sit at 70 °C during slow city driving?

Coolant leaks through the EGR loop before the engine warms up. A stuck-open small thermostat or an incorrectly oriented check valve keeps cold water circulating through the radiator, so the block never reaches 90 °C [Elektroda, pilkozak, #17024825; MEGI313, #18751294].

Which thermostats control temperature on CJCA/CGLC engines?

Two devices: 1) the main thermostat (03L 121 111 AD) at the water pump controls engine-to-radiator flow; 2) the small EGR-loop thermostat (059 121 113 N) isolates the exhaust-gas cooler until 87 °C is reached [VW SSP 635].

How do I diagnose a leaking small thermostat with VCDS?

Log IDE00025 (coolant temp) and IDE00192 (radiator outlet). If both climb together from cold, the small thermostat is leaking. A healthy system shows IDE00192 staying low until IDE00025 passes ~87 °C [Elektroda, pilkozak, post #17024825]

Are aftermarket thermostats reliable?

Forum tests found many replacements flow when cold; two original VW units allowed mouth-pressure air to pass, while First Line FTK406 blocked fully and restored heat [Elektroda, pit30, post #18403280] Choose Behr/Mahle or check by blowing before fitting.

What is the check-valve flip fix?

The one-way valve near the bulkhead can be removed and re-inserted opposite way. This blocks premature coolant flow through the EGR radiator. Users report stable 90 °C after the 5-minute mod with no side effects over 6 months [Elektroda, MEGI313, post #18751294]

Is the procedure safe for summer driving?

Yes. A member ran a full summer with the valve reversed; coolant stayed within spec and could be returned to stock in minutes [Elektroda, MEGI313, post #19180521]

Could the EGR cooler itself cause low temperature?

Yes. A stuck flap or cable inside the cooler keeps exhaust gas away, so the cooler becomes a permanent radiator. Cleaning or freeing the linkage with penetrant restored normal warm-up in multiple cases [Elektroda, MEGI313, post #19277883]

How do I replace the small thermostat?

  1. Release hose clamps with remote-cable pliers. 2. Swap the thermostat (ensure vent hole faces up). 3. Refill and bleed by running engine at 2 000 rpm with heater on HI for 3 min. Whole job takes 45 min and 200 ml coolant loss [Elektroda, pit30, post #18796427]

Will software reprogramming fix under-heating?

Some tuners raise the EGR-pump duty cycle threshold, delaying coolant flow. Owners report steady temps but warn of faster EGR-cooler wear and possible cracks within months [Elektroda, doublegii, post #20929128]

Edge case: new OEM thermostats fitted yet temperature still drops—what next?

Check for silicone debris blocking oil-cooler passages, which mimics a stuck thermostat and reduces flow. One user cleared a plug and solved the issue [Elektroda, king395, post #18748629]

Does the additional electric heater affect coolant temperature?

No. The PTC heater warms cabin air only. Engine temperature will still fall if coolant flow is uncontrolled [Elektroda, andrzej20001, post #17028070]

What is the normal warm-up time?

At −5 °C ambient, a healthy 2.0 TDI reaches 90 °C in 6-8 km or about 10 min of mixed driving, meeting VW’s 10-km/15-min guideline [VW SSP 635].
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT