I have not found the exact name of the model, the kitchen has 20 years of heater, hot air, rotary spit, clock, lighter everything OK. The only fault is after igniting the main burner you need to keep the 5-15sec knob depressed or the flame will go off, the other burners do not have this defect. How is the absence of a flame detected and the automatic shut-off of the inflow?
This is a malfunction of the thermocouple at this burner. It can be checked as follows: disconnect the stove from the power supply and gas, press the gas cock of this burner while holding it and, for a few seconds, heat the end of the thermocouple with a lighter. After that, let go of the knob and after a while if everything is OK, we should hear a slight tick. If it is audible then the fault may lie in the thermocouple valve and it will most likely be the separation of the rubber seal from the plug of the solenoid valve. This is of course repairable but with gas there is no joke. If we do not hear any ticking then the thermocouple solenoid valve will be replaced with the tip. Maybe it's just the lack of a thermocouple's contact with the valve. You can also try a maneuver using a pad only I do not know if it will help. Remove the plastic knob from this unfortunate burner (pulls outwards) and put a washer on the stem of the gas valve (probably one is already there). If it does not help, as I wrote above.
Is this protruding tip next to the burner from which the throes of WN is a thermocouple? What is the voltage after heating that thermocouple, large enough to activate the gas solenoid? And one more thing if ceramic insulators are available for purchase because I have 2 breaks and the spark goes sideways, maybe I put some Teflon shirt on. The operation of the solenoid valves is quite good, louder as a slight tick.
I could ask you for some photo from the net, I mean a solenoid valve, a mushroom ...
The one from which the spark beats is a magnet, and the thermocouple is next to or on the opposite side. The voltage is high there, but I do not remember what order. These sparkplugs are available for purchase and the replacement is simple, you just need to pull the top of the oven, and this is no longer so easy because of the seared screws fixing it to the burners. If you manage to unscrew the 8 pieces, it will go on just like a petal. The magnet is attached to the basket of the burner from the bottom there is a bolt, which must be pulled out and the tip pulled up, and then disconnect the wire from the power generator (a small box in the back of the oven inside).
Simple job. The thermocouple works on the principle that by pressing the gas tap we simultaneously push the valve core, which is inside the coil, and the thermocouple tip after heating with a flame as if it converts the heat into an electromagnetic pulse passing it to the winding of the coil. The tip cools when the flame extinguishes and the core in the valve is released. Then the core, retracting with the seal, closes the gas supply. Hence the name of the leakage gas protection. Later I'll throw in a photo of the valve because it just happens that I have Amica on the table. Greetings. I attach photos. edit:
Here you have sample links for the thermocouple and valve but you have to dismantle it because it comes with one wire and then the mass is in contact with the bowl of the burner (maybe you already have too much dirt) and two-wire, but with different connection method. You must view yours. I think, however, that if all the valves work, as you wrote above, you probably need a pad under the dial. You can also unscrew the thermocouple valve and check if the gasket sits on it. It happens that the gasket drops and stays in the gas valve.
On the third foto A it is the marked thermocouple tip, B is a magnet. Greetings.
Thanks for the photos, I am full of uncertainty about the condition of the screws fixing the burner to the table top. I would love to polish them and buy a new counter because this one is supposedly too toasted. Well, you can not stand it if a woman stumps and groans there ... and that's the top you can buy at all?
Do not grind these screws under any circumstances because they are twisted in the bowls of the burners. Well, the fact that in this way you can easily take off the table top as the remaining parts of the screws will be in aluminum bowls. Burners then for replacement and the cost is almost half of the new oven. I do not know who patented it, steel bolts plus aluminum contact for this high temperature and fat. Tragedy. If I do not manage to unscrew with a Phillips screwdriver with a mallet, I cut the angle with a small angle and then use a flat screwdriver with a wrench. If one breaks off, I will spray several times with the so-called screw from the automotive wholesaler and then pliers from the bottom of course, min. 2 hours I unscrew. If it does not go then it is driving, drilling and extractor. Epic fail. As for the countertop, it is better to look for a used cooker for pennies in good condition and replace it. Painting gives nothing. Like a special spray paint but a total linden, because in the final stage yellow is done, not white. The tops in these ovens were covered with ceramic paint or even with older enamels. I did not meet with the new top. Maybe in NORTH they will have but the price will knock you down. Greetings.
Thank you very much for the exact advice you have already satisfied my curiosity and you cooled down the enthusiasm now I know to check anything I have to start by unscrewing the upper screws fixing the burners, after so many years I see it black (I will postpone it the same as "quitting" from the 1st). ..