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[Solved] BMW E46 - The blower fan does not work when the engine is started

sokol32 28152 14
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  • #1 17145615
    sokol32
    Level 10  
    Posts: 9
    Rate: 6
    Good morning,
    The problem concerns BMW E46 Sedan, 320i, 2000.

    After switching the key in the ignition switch to the second position - the blower starts, ignites the control and everything looks OK. The blower operates without interruption and stably, reacting to changes on the air / air conditioning panel.
    After starting the engine, the blower switches off after 3 seconds. Then it turns on for about 1 second, but only if I run anything else that requires voltage, such as lights, turn signals, rear window heating or air conditioning.

    Since the problem appeared:
    - I replaced the air supply panel by connecting another one - no changes
    - I checked all fuses, not only those responsible for the air supply - they are all OK
    - I changed this relay (click) with horn relay - unchanged. The horn works, so I bet that the relay is operational.

    Some people suggest me to replace the hedgehog (blower resistor) - but it is 200 PLN, and the standard symptoms of a fallen hedgehog I found on the internet do not match mine.
    Does anyone have any idea what to check / do, in addition to the possible replacement of a hedgehog?
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  • Helpful post
    #2 17145626
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    Posts: 27411
    Help: 1403
    Rate: 6379
    Yes, I suggest replacing the hedgehog.
    The hedgehog comes with control from the panel.

    Measure whether the control voltage comes from the panel and whether there is a mass and power supply and there is no output voltage.
  • #3 17145700
    sokol32
    Level 10  
    Posts: 9
    Rate: 6
    Ok, I will buy a hedgehog today.

    As for the measurements you mentioned, could you tell me how to measure it? On the engine running, with the hedgehog plug?
    I found something that will probably help me: description of the hedgehog pins in E39. I suspect that the E46 will be much the same.

    I'm seriously a beginner :)
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    #4 17145715
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    Posts: 27411
    Help: 1403
    Rate: 6379
    You go to the scrap yard and ask for a hedgehog and you go with a guy and check with you in the car, before you pull the plastic and the plug from yours for a long time did not bother.
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    #5 17145732
    Pawel wawa
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 16093
    Help: 1262
    Rate: 4416
    For now, check one more thing, turn on the ignition and blower, write that it works, then turn the ignition switch so that the engine will start for a fraction of a second, but the car will not fire. If the blower stops working, you have the culprit, the ignition switch will be replaced. Symptoms definitely do not indicate damage to the hedgehog.
  • #6 17145883
    sokol32
    Level 10  
    Posts: 9
    Rate: 6
    I did the test - "unfortunately" the blower still worked, link to the video below. The first time the engine started - I showed the way when the blower behaves when switching on, for example, heating the rear window.
    The trick you offered in 47 seconds.
  • #7 17145934
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17695
    Help: 1568
    Rate: 6610
    Charging voltage?
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  • #8 17145946
    sokol32
    Level 10  
    Posts: 9
    Rate: 6
    I had a regenerated alternator in the autumn, it remains 14-14.1 V (when starting the next voltage receivers visible momentary drops not lower than 13.5 V, but quickly return to 14 - it's probably normal).
  • #9 17146583
    helmud7543
    Level 43  
    Posts: 12618
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    Rate: 1563
    Yes, it also happens to me, I sit down after the load at idle and returns.
  • #10 17146651
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17695
    Help: 1568
    Rate: 6610
    It was for me whether it does not overload, on the film after the start-up as the altek starts the fan, it increases the speed and goes out ... but when it is 14V, it is not ...
  • #11 17148459
    sokol32
    Level 10  
    Posts: 9
    Rate: 6
    I checked this loading once again and the values are theoretically OK, but I noticed an important thing: I get the impression that the blower stops working when the charging exceeds 13.5V. That's why it works after the ignition is turned on, and after the engine is running for a while - before the charging reaches the value of 14 V.

    The same when driving - turning on, for example, lights causes a temporary decrease in charging, then the blower is activated for this short time.
    Link to the next video showing how it works, that it does not work :) The video shows the charging of the alternator.

    1) So maybe it is an alternator? It's possible that the fault lies on his side despite the fact that the charging is ok?
    2) Is there a chance that the famous "hedgehog" would generate such problems, or are the symptoms not like a hedgehog? :)

    Maybe some other ideas?
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  • #12 17148480
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17695
    Help: 1568
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    Measure with a meter
  • #13 17148616
    sokol32
    Level 10  
    Posts: 9
    Rate: 6
    Andrew,
    I have measured - the values in the OBC test coincide with those indicated by the meter.

    But I did one more thing - I started everything that I can in the car (long lights, fog, rear window heating, klime, radio, etc.) - the alternator's charge dropped - surprisingly, up to 13 V (the same value in the OBC test and meter) and the blower started to act - which confirms my theory, the blower works when the voltage drops below a certain value.

    Do you bet an alternator? Do you have any idea why the blower works with a higher load (and therefore with less charging voltage), and with stable 14 volts does not want to work?
  • Helpful post
    #14 17149180
    Pawel wawa
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 16093
    Help: 1262
    Rate: 4416
    However, damage to the hedgehog.
  • #15 17163273
    sokol32
    Level 10  
    Posts: 9
    Rate: 6
    Hedgehog mentioned - it helped.
    It turns out that I have been unaware of the purchase of the car from the purchase of the air supply :)

    Thanks for the help!

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a malfunctioning blower fan in a 2000 BMW E46 320i Sedan. The blower operates normally when the ignition is in the second position but shuts off shortly after the engine starts. Various troubleshooting steps were taken, including replacing the air supply panel, checking fuses, and swapping relays, but the issue persisted. Suggestions included measuring control voltage from the panel and considering the blower resistor (referred to as "hedgehog") as a potential culprit. The user conducted tests indicating that the blower functions when the voltage drops below a certain threshold, leading to speculation about the alternator's performance. Ultimately, replacing the blower resistor resolved the issue.
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FAQ

TL;DR: E46 blower works on ignition but cuts out ~3 seconds after start, then blips ~1 second with extra load; "Some people suggest me to replace the hedgehog." Diagnosis points to the final stage resistor (FSR) and simple tests confirm it. [Elektroda, sokol32, post #17145615]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps BMW E46 owners fix a blower that dies after engine start without wasting money on wrong parts.

Quick Facts

What causes my BMW E46 blower to shut off right after I start the engine?

A failing final stage resistor (FSR), also called the hedgehog, is the prime suspect. The unit can cut blower output as soon as charging voltage rises after start. In this thread, replacing the hedgehog restored full blower function immediately, confirming FSR failure. [Elektroda, sokol32, post #17163273]

How can I quickly rule out a bad ignition switch on an E46 HVAC issue?

Turn ignition on, set the blower running, then flick the key to crank for a split second without letting the engine start. If the blower shuts off, the ignition switch is likely at fault and needs replacement. If the blower keeps running, look elsewhere, like the FSR. [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, post #17145732]

Why does the blower briefly come back when I turn on lights or rear defrost?

Extra electrical loads momentarily drop system voltage. In the reported case, the blower returned for a second whenever lights, rear defrost, or A/C were switched on. That voltage sensitivity points to a failing FSR, which misbehaves at higher charging voltage and revives at lower voltage. [Elektroda, sokol32, post #17148459]

What charging voltages were seen during this fault on the E46?

The on-board test matched a multimeter. With heavy electrical loads, charging dropped to about 13.0 V and the blower worked again. Without extra load, charging stabilized higher and the blower cut out. These readings help confirm voltage-sensitive FSR behavior. [Elektroda, sokol32, post #17148616]

Could the alternator or regulator be the cause if the blower quits at 14 V?

In this case, charging stayed around 14.0–14.1 V with brief dips during load changes, which is normal. The alternator had been refurbished and readings looked fine. The fault traced to the FSR instead of the alternator or regulator. [Elektroda, sokol32, post #17145946]

What is the “hedgehog” in a BMW E46 HVAC system?

It’s the blower final stage resistor (also called final stage unit). It modulates blower speed based on the climate control panel signal. When it fails, you get erratic or no blower operation even though the panel seems to work. [Elektroda, Strumien swiadomosci swia, post #17145626]

How much does the E46 blower final stage resistor typically cost?

The thread mentions about 200 PLN for a replacement hedgehog. Prices vary by brand and source, but budgeting near that figure helps planning. Some owners test a used unit first to confirm the diagnosis before buying new. [Elektroda, sokol32, post #17145615]

How can I test the FSR with a multimeter?

Check for power, ground, and control signal at the FSR connector. Then verify whether a proper output to the blower exists. As one expert said, “Measure whether the control voltage comes from the panel.” If input is good and output is missing, the FSR has failed. [Elektroda, Strumien swiadomosci swia, post #17145626]

Is the blower relay (K4) a likely cause?

Unlikely in this symptom set. The poster swapped the heater blower relay with the horn relay and saw no change. The horn worked, confirming the relay was functional. That points away from K4 and toward the FSR. [Elektroda, sokol32, post #17145615]

Will replacing the climate control panel fix this symptom?

No. The owner temporarily replaced the HVAC control panel and nothing changed. The blower still shut down after engine start. That result further implicates the FSR rather than the panel electronics. [Elektroda, sokol32, post #17145615]

What was the confirmed fix in this thread?

Replacing the hedgehog solved it: “Hedgehog mentioned - it helped.” After installation, the blower operated normally again with the engine running. That confirms the final stage resistor as the root cause in this case. [Elektroda, sokol32, post #17163273]

Can I test a used FSR before buying a new one?

Yes. One tip is to visit a scrapyard and test a used hedgehog in your car before buying. “You go to the scrap yard and ask for a hedgehog and you go with a guy and check with you in the car.” It saves time and money. [Elektroda, Strumien swiadomosci swia, post #17145715]

How can I reproduce and confirm the voltage-sensitive behavior quickly?

Try this 3‑step check:
  1. Ignition on, set blower running.
  2. Start engine and observe the blower shutting off.
  3. Switch on lights, rear defrost, or A/C; watch the blower revive briefly as voltage drops under load. If it matches, suspect the FSR. [Elektroda, sokol32, post #17148459]

What measurement tools and checks should I trust here?

Use a digital multimeter on the battery terminals and at the FSR connector. Cross-check readings under different loads. Keep the probe steady while toggling loads to capture voltage changes. As the expert advised, “Measure with a meter.” That establishes facts before parts swapping. [Elektroda, andrzej20001, post #17148480]
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