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Controlling Terrace Lighting: Manual Override and Motion Sensor Activation

Ariel N. 18126 17
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  • #1 17155901
    Ariel N.
    Level 3  
    Good morning.
    How to control the terrace lighting in such a way that it is activated by a motion sensor, with the option of manually forcing it to stay on continuously or not reacting to the motion sensor?
    Connecting the motion sensor itself is not a problem, I have used it many times for halogen lamps, but how to do it so that independent control is possible?
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  • #2 17155917
    tomek_wlkp
    Level 16  
    Use a two-key switch (candlestick)? With the first section you power the motion detector and with the second section its output, i.e. lighting...
  • #3 17156112
    Ariel N.
    Level 3  
    So the I-0-II switch?
  • #4 17156118
    tomek_wlkp
    Level 16  
    No, type "candle switch" into Google... one that can switch on two circuits independently, one, the other or two at a time...

    Controlling Terrace Lighting: Manual Override and Motion Sensor Activation

    Instead of the second circuit, you add a motion detector and connect its output to the first circuit... and with one button you turn on the lighting on the detector and with the other button permanently...
  • #5 17156121
    Ariel N.
    Level 3  
    Well, two at a time, probably not good when the phase from the switch activated manually meets the phase from the motion sensor at the same time? Does it matter?
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  • #6 17156126
    tomek_wlkp
    Level 16  
    I edited the post... your idea is also good, but I meant that you want to control the wall switch...
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  • #7 17156153
    wodzu_1
    Level 25  
    Turning off the power supply to the motion sensor and turning it on again causes the so-called sensor burn-in, i.e. momentary lighting of the lamp without detecting movement or light level.
    You can use a bistable relay with or without a timer.
    Pressing the button turns on the lamp (in the case of bistable with timer, for the set time), pressing it again turns off the lamp, pressing the button for approx. 3 seconds turns on the lamp permanently. Pressing the button again turns everything off. There is a relay option with memory, a function useful in the event of a power outage - the lamp will not turn on accidentally or turn off after the power returns if it was on before the power outage.
    The timer option is useful when we forget to turn off the lighting, we set the time as long as possible and the lamp will go off when we forget to turn it off.
    The relay output must control the lamp itself, not the motion sensor power supply.
    A bit complicated, but the choice is yours.
  • #8 17156296
    Ariel N.
    Level 3  
    The point is that when it's dark and I go out on the terrace, I want to be able to turn on the light. When I am away, I would like the light to turn on by itself, unless I am sleeping and there are wild cats running around on the terrace, I would like the light not to turn on, so I would like to turn it off for this occasion. :D

    I was also thinking about bistable, but more for the living room, so that I could turn the light on when I enter from the terrace and turn it off on the other side when I go to the kitchen.
  • #9 17156323
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Ariel N. wrote:
    It's probably not good when the phase from the switch activated manually meets the phase from the motion sensor at the same time? Does it matter?
    After all, you connect the same phase there, so everything will be fine. Do as he suggests tomek_wlkp. This is the simplest solution to implement and to maintain later.
  • #10 17156716
    tomek_wlkp
    Level 16  
    Let's wait until specialists in Atmega and Arduino programming speak on the topic :D Since one of my colleagues suggests timers and bistable relays for such a simple task, there will soon be those who will suggest the author to use Arduino :D of course, let the author write his own software that will measure his pulse, body temperature and shoe number, dick... :D Colleagues, this can be done in a simple way as I presented earlier :)
  • #11 17156951
    Ariel N.
    Level 3  
    Ok, now a beer for whoever finds the IO II switch in the wall version xD
    It turns out that the tomek_wlkp method is actually the easiest
  • #12 17160767
    tomek_wlkp
    Level 16  
    Ariel N. wrote:
    Ok, now a beer for whoever finds the IO II switch in the wall version xD
    It turns out that the tomek_wlkp method is actually the easiest


    So don't look for an I-0-II switch on the wall because I haven't seen one like that before... Buy a normal candlestick one and do as I suggest. :)
  • #13 17162790
    wodzu_1
    Level 25  
    The title of the topic was: "Motion sensor lighting plus button".
    I proposed a solution with a bistable relay, not a candlestick or other switch, just because there is a button.
    There was no question of microprocessors and software needed for their operation.
    One of the forum members does not know how to do it, the other one mocks the solution proposed, proven and used.
    By the way... there is no such thing as an IO-II switch, because we call such "something" a switch.
    The second thing is that we can't illuminate anything with a motion sensor, that's what the lamp is for, and the sensor is used for... control (topic title).
    Third thing: a flush-mounted or surface-mounted IO-II switch is generally available, you just need to look for it.
    One last thing: you have weighed the beer, so drink it yourself, as the saying goes, and call an installer who will do it because he knows how.
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  • #14 17163568
    Ariel N.
    Level 3  
    I was waiting for this - "call installer"
    This solves the problem, I didn't think of that, I'm calling a specialist!
  • #15 17448596
    depekabe
    Level 7  
    Hello,
    I have a similar problem, but apart from forcing the lamp to be turned on using the switch, I would also like to have a switch that will completely cut off the voltage to the entire system, while limiting the number of switches. I came up with the idea of using a double stair switch - one button would be used to turn the voltage on/off to the system, and the other button would send voltage either to the sensor (and then to the lamp) or directly to the lamp - the diagram below.
    The question is whether if the voltage goes directly to the lamp (then the detector also receives voltage from the output side), will it not cause a short circuit / damage to the detector (a similar situation if in the diagram shown by tomek_wlkp turn on only the switch that powers the lamp directly, and the switch powering the detector was turned off)?

    Controlling Terrace Lighting: Manual Override and Motion Sensor Activation
  • #16 17449683
    tomek_wlkp
    Level 16  
    Nothing will happen because all detectors (at least the ones I have dealt with) have a relay at the output...
  • #17 17450508
    depekabe
    Level 7  
    Thanks for explaining,
    Has your colleague had any experience with STEINEL detectors? I would like to use the IS 360-3 model, but no one can say specifically whether this detector will be damaged if it receives voltage at the output (I don't want to experiment because the detector is not cheap).
    Thank you in advance

    Added after 2 [hours] 13 [minutes]:

    Refers to the above question ;-)
    I found the instructions for the above sensor and the connection diagrams show that such connections are possible (the options given by the manufacturer are the use of a candlestick or stair switch).

    Added after 56 [seconds]:

    If anyone wants it, here's it:

    https://www.langelukaszuk.pl/fileadmin/Product/DOKUMENTY/instrukcja_steinel_is360-3de.pdf
  • #18 17967994
    kamij
    Level 14  
    I will find out whether it is possible to somehow connect a halogen LED with a built-in sensor and probably a voltage transformer due to the LED. I don't think it's possible to simply connect the phase via the button behind the detector :(

    This is a typical market halogen lamp.

    Regards

    PS Arduino etc. is not an option - it's a carport :)

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around controlling terrace lighting using a motion sensor with the option for manual override. Users suggest using a two-key switch (candlestick switch) to independently control the motion sensor and the lighting. A bistable relay is also proposed, allowing for manual activation and timed control of the lamp. Concerns about potential short circuits when connecting the motion sensor and lamp directly are addressed, with reassurance that most detectors have a relay output. The STEINEL IS 360-3 motion sensor is mentioned, with users confirming its compatibility with various switch configurations. The conversation highlights the importance of proper wiring and control mechanisms to achieve the desired functionality without damaging components.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Use a 2‑circuit “candlestick” switch to split sensor and manual feeds; “one button you turn on the lighting on the detector and with the other button permanently.” Ideal for simple auto, manual‑on, and off control on terraces and entries. [Elektroda, tomek_wlkp, post #17156118]

Why it matters: It gives hands‑free lighting when away, manual control when home, and a quick way to disable nuisance triggers.

Quick Facts

How do I wire a motion sensor with manual override using a two-gang switch?

Use a candlestick (two‑gang) switch. 1) Feed Line to both switch inputs. 2) Key A output to the sensor’s L; sensor’s switched output to the lamp. 3) Key B output directly to the lamp for permanent‑on. This yields auto, manual‑on, and all‑off modes. [Elektroda, tomek_wlkp, post #17156118]

Is it safe if the manual phase and the sensor phase meet at the lamp simultaneously?

Yes, both feeds are the same phase from the same circuit. It won’t fight or short. “After all, you connect the same phase there, so everything will be fine.” Keep neutrals common and protected by one breaker. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #17156323]

Should I cut power to the motion sensor to force the light off?

Avoid using sensor power as your main override. Power‑cycling PIRs often triggers brief “burn‑in” illumination. Leave the sensor powered and override by switching the lamp line instead. This prevents nuisance flashes at night. [Elektroda, wodzu_1, post #17156153]

How can I add timed auto-off and permanent-on without smart home gear?

Use a bistable relay with a timer. Press to toggle on; press again to turn off. Hold about 3 seconds for permanent‑on. Choose a version with memory to restore the last state after outages. It simplifies control with one low‑voltage button. [Elektroda, wodzu_1, post #17156153]

Can a double stair switch both cut power and choose sensor/manual modes?

Yes, if your sensor uses a relay output. One key can isolate the system upstream. The other key can route power either through the sensor or directly to the lamp. Relay outputs tolerate the parallel feed without damage. [Elektroda, tomek_wlkp, post #17449683]

Will backfeeding voltage into a STEINEL IS 360-3 sensor output damage it?

No, the manufacturer’s diagrams show candlestick and stair‑switch overrides. These allow a direct lamp feed in parallel with the sensor output. That indicates the device is designed for such control methods. Follow the manual’s wiring options. [STEINEL IS 360-3 Manual]

I can’t find an I‑0‑II wall switch—what should I buy?

Buy a standard two‑gang “candlestick” switch. It provides two independent circuits for the sensor feed and the lamp’s direct feed. This is the recommended, simple wall solution for manual override with a motion detector. [Elektroda, tomek_wlkp, post #17160767]

How do I stop pets from triggering the light at night?

Turn off the sensor’s feed with one key when you want no motion triggers. Use the other key to turn the light on manually when needed. This avoids false activations while preserving instant manual lighting. [Elektroda, tomek_wlkp, post #17156118]

My LED floodlight has a built-in PIR and driver—can I add a hardwired manual-on?

Avoid backfeeding behind integrated sensors. Many market floodlights lack a safe override input, so a simple phase button won’t work. Choose a model with an external sensor or dedicated override lead, or control a separate relay. [Elektroda, kamij, post #17967994]

Where should the bistable relay connect: the lamp line or the sensor’s power?

Switch the lamp line, not the sensor’s power supply. This avoids PIR power‑cycling and the brief “burn‑in” effect. The relay should control the load directly, while the sensor remains continuously powered for stable operation. [Elektroda, wodzu_1, post #17156153]

Will the lights behave correctly after a power outage?

Select a relay with memory. It restores the previous state after power returns. That prevents the lamp from turning on unexpectedly or turning off if it had been on before the outage. It’s safer and predictable. [Elektroda, wodzu_1, post #17156153]

Do I need Arduino or a smart controller for this setup?

No. A candlestick switch or a bistable relay handles manual override cleanly. “This can be done in a simple way as I presented earlier.” Reserve microcontrollers for complex logic you truly need. [Elektroda, tomek_wlkp, post #17156716]

What modes do I get from the two-gang override?

You get Auto (sensor only): sensor key on, manual key off. Manual‑On: manual key on. All‑Off: both keys off. Both‑On: both keys on; safe but redundant. This covers most terrace and entry scenarios. [Elektroda, tomek_wlkp, post #17156118]
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