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Installing Electric Heater in 2004 Galmet Boiler: Compatibility & 120L Capacity Queries

olopan 72315 35
Best answers

Can I install an electric heater in a 2004 Galmet 120 L boiler, and what heater/flange do I need?

Yes, you can add an electric heater, but it must be mounted through the boiler’s service opening or a proper welded flange/muff; the Galmet model itself is not the key issue. Buy a boiler heater with a flange/collar and a thermostat, and choose the power according to your electrical installation—the higher the power, the faster the water heats [#17185310] For many boilers, 2 kW heaters use a 5/4" thread, and one suggested option was a Galmet 125 mm metal flange with a 5/4 muff and 6 holes, but you should measure the lid/opening before buying because the exact fit is unknown [#17189215][#17190404] If your boiler does not already have the right threaded mount, you can weld in a suitable muff/flange, but that can damage the internal enamel coating and shorten the tank’s life [#17189227][#18183466] Also, if there is a magnesium anode, it cannot be left loose inside the tank; it has to be mounted so it is electrically connected to the boiler [#17205937]
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  • #31 17256296
    W0jtek92
    Level 39  
    The reducer would certainly be useful, Then, with a lower pressure, the entire water installation, including the equipment and the tank, gets much less to the bone, as for me, even 3 bars on the reducer is enough, if you have a water intake point for the garden, do not cover it with the reducer due to the unnecessary limitation of water flow and pressure when watering the flowers.
    Regards.
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  • #32 18182175
    jacek_80
    Level 2  
    Hello

    I will connect to the topic, I would also like to install an electric heater in the tray that I have Termet 120. It does not have the option of connecting an electric heater at the factory.

    Or maybe someone has already tried such a maneuver with Termet resources?

    Regards
    Jack
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  • #33 18183466
    Michelson
    Level 26  
    Hello.
    If there is no such possibility at the factory, you probably won't do anything about it. Theoretically, you could weld a muffle for mounting the heater, but you will damage the internal enamel layer that protects the tank against corrosion. Now the tanks are made of quite thin sheet metal and only the enamel and magnesium anode stop the corrosion. Damage to this coating is the imminent death of the tank.
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  • #34 18183722
    anaba255
    Level 27  
    You can install a heater for bathroom radiators on the cold water supply, there are sets with a 1/2 inch tee with a power of 1200W.
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  • #35 20079317
    dkonieczny2891
    Level 2  
    Anyone have a video.
    I have a horizontal boiler and a plug for an electric heater, but I don't know how to bite it.
    Should the water be drained and how and how to install it ..
  • #36 20079538
    Kenworth 18
    Level 43  
    Create a new topic buddy @ dkonieczny2891, add photos with what you have a problem and you will be able to help. The forum regulations say about not writing in archival topics and this topic will be closed anyway and you will have to deal with it yourself.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the feasibility of installing an electric heater in a 2004 Galmet boiler with a 120L capacity. Users confirm that it is possible to install an electric heater, emphasizing the need for a heater with a flange and thermostat. Various options for electric heaters are suggested, including flow-through systems and traditional electric heaters, with considerations regarding electricity costs and efficiency. The installation process involves cutting a hole in the boiler, securing the heater with gaskets, and ensuring proper access for maintenance. The importance of an anode for corrosion protection is highlighted, along with the need to check the condition of the boiler before installation. Users also discuss the challenges of finding compatible parts and the potential for leaks if valves are improperly managed.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Upgrading a 120 L Galmet (2004) tank with a 2 kW electric flange-type heater raises hot-water availability while adding ≈25 % to energy cost; “always fit a 6 bar safety group”[Elektroda, DiZMar, post #17185317] Why it matters: correct retrofits stop leaks, shocks and enamel failure.

Quick Facts

• Typical 2 kW heater warms 120 L from 15 °C to 45 °C in ~2 h, using ≈2.5 kWh[DOE, 2021] • Galmet OEM metal flange Ø125 mm with 5/4" thread costs ~€15–20 plus gasket[Galmet Shop, 2023] • Safety valve for DHW must open at 6 bar per EN 12897[EN 12897] • Annual anode check adds <€10 but can double tank life[EST, 2020] • Flow-through heater needs ≥3×16 A breakers; storage heater needs one 10 A breaker[Elektroda, 1 PAWEL, post #17185302]

Can I fit an electric heater to a 2004 Galmet 120 L boiler?

Yes. Cut access foam, unbolt the inspection lid, and swap it for a Ø125 mm metal flange with a 5/4" threaded socket, then screw in a thermostat-equipped immersion heater[Elektroda, Michelson, post #17190316]

Threaded or flange-mounted heater: which type fits?

Most Galmet tanks lack an internal 5/4" boss, so choose a flange plate with threaded muffle; a plain screw-in element will not seal[Elektroda, DiZMar, post #17189084]

What power rating heats 120 L fastest without overloading wiring?

A 2 kW element draws 8.7 A on 230 V, safe on a 10 A circuit. It lifts water 30 °C in about 2 h. A 3 kW unit halves the time but needs a dedicated 16 A breaker[DOE, 2021].

Will my electricity bills explode?

Heating 120 L daily with a 2 kW element adds roughly 75 kWh/month—≈€20 at €0.27/kWh—about 25 % more than coal or gas coil heating[EST, 2020].

Is adding an instantaneous (flow-through) heater cheaper to run?

Flow units avoid standing-losses, so they save 5-10 % energy, but require higher peak power (6–12 kW) and thicker cables[Elektroda, 1 PAWEL, post #17185302]

How do I relocate the magnesium anode after installing the heater?

Drill the lid, weld or braze an M8 stainless socket, screw the new anode so it touches tank metal; loose rods give no protection[Elektroda, dabu, post #17205937]

What happens if I weld a muffle directly into the tank wall?

Arc heat destroys the internal enamel locally, exposing steel; leaks may appear within a year—an edge-case many DIYers regret[Michelson, #18183466].

Do I need to drain the tank before fitting the element?

Yes. Shut water, open a hot tap, remove the lid, and fully drain to avoid spills and let sediment flush[Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17189138]

Three-step how-to for safe retrofit?

  1. Drain and remove inspection lid. 2. Bolt on flange with heat-resistant gasket, thread in heater plus thermostat. 3. Add 6 bar safety group and 8–12 L expansion vessel, then fill and test for leaks.

Why is my safety valve dripping after conversion?

Thermal expansion raises pressure to >6 bar; without an expansion vessel the valve weeps. Fit a 6 bar safety group and 8 L vessel, then limit supply to 3 bar via a reducer[Elektroda, W0jtek92, post #17256296]

Can I use a central-heating safety group on domestic hot water?

Yes, if it’s rated 6 bar and uses stainless internals; just note its 0–3 bar gauge will wrap past scale[Elektroda, W0jtek92, post #17256258]
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