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Installation of an electric heater in the Vaillant vih r 150/6 B storage tank

syybin 36966 88
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Can I install an electric heater in a Vaillant VIH R 150/6 B storage tank by using the drain valve port?

Yes, but only if the heater physically clears the internal coil; the top connections are a bad idea because they have plastic inserts and water-guide tubes, so the drain valve port is the proper place to try [#19977708][#19977796] The fit is not universal: the exact coil position and tank version vary, so before buying it is worth opening the drain, probing the opening with a rod of the heater’s length, and checking whether anything blocks it [#20401317][#21846475] If it fits, the best solution is to screw the heater directly into the tank connector; later notes say not to use a tee or extension because that can create an overheating section on the heater body [#20388828][#20715446] People reported successful installs in VIH R 150/6 B with a 900 W heater, and in similar tanks with 1.2 kW, but mainly as auxiliary heating rather than the only DHW source [#20935498][#20961672]
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  • #1 19945498
    syybin
    Level 10  
    Posts: 30
    Rate: 18
    Hello. I want to install an electric heater to the Vaillant vih r 150/6 B tank. Theoretically, there is no such option. But apparently you can put it in place of the water drain. Has anyone practiced this?
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  • #2 19947565
    ROWE
    Level 34  
    Posts: 1987
    Help: 239
    Rate: 529
    If you can physically do it, and you can, there are no contraindications here.
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  • #3 19947717
    VPS
    Level 25  
    Posts: 547
    Help: 87
    Rate: 229
    Well done YOU :D how to mount the heater in the place of the water drain, which is 1/2 "
    The only place where the heater could be mounted is where the magnesium anode is screwed in, but I do not advise removing the anode.
  • #4 19950902
    ROWE
    Level 34  
    Posts: 1987
    Help: 239
    Rate: 529
    syybin wrote:
    I want to install an electric heater to the Vaillant vih r 150/6 B tank.

    Call and ask about thread dimensions:
    Installation of an electric heater in the Vaillant vih r 150/6 B storage tank
    Anyway, it's a custom-made heater.
  • #5 19950953
    zales.vip
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1179
    Help: 191
    Rate: 585
    ROWE wrote:
    syybin wrote:
    I want to install an electric heater to the Vaillant vih r 150/6 B tank.

    Call and ask about thread dimensions:
    Installation of an electric heater in the Vaillant vih r 150/6 B storage tank
    Anyway, it's a custom-made heater.


    After all, a colleague of VPS has already summed it up - congratulating the idea of screwing the heater into the 1/2 "thread

    Besides - depriving yourself of a water drain - is also not a great idea.
    I am generally not a fan of this combination.
    Buy a container with a place for the heater and after the case.
  • #6 19958526
    mauri_b
    Heating systems specialist  
    Posts: 1055
    Help: 109
    Rate: 528
    You can install a 1/2" heater with a tee, such as a radiator heater, max power 600W. You screw the drain valve into the tee. You can do it even without draining the water.
  • #7 19977625
    syybin
    Level 10  
    Posts: 30
    Rate: 18
    In fact, there is a 1/2 anode thread, I would not like to remove it, but there is one more place where it could be mounted. I mark the arrow. What do you think? Installation of an electric heater in the Vaillant vih r 150/6 B storage tank [img-0]
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    #8 19977708
    ls_77
    Level 38  
    Posts: 2439
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    All spigots from above are a bad idea. The one marked for DHW circulation, as well as for ZW and DHW, have plastic inserts installed inside - such tubes that direct water to the right place in the tank:
    ZW - is the longest and reaches the bottom of the tank
    DHW - is the shortest because it has to collect water from the top of the tank
    circulation - is of medium length because it is to direct the returning HUW more or less in the middle.
    If you mount the heater there somehow, it will be wrapped in a tube - it will have a cover that will prevent proper heat dissipation.

    The most correct mounting location is the drain from the tank - only I have never dismantled this valve and I do not know what the thread is there.
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    #9 19977710
    andrzej lukaszewicz
    Level 42  
    Posts: 7005
    Help: 622
    Rate: 2099
    The heater at the top will heat only 10% of the tank volume and the thermostat will turn it off. Therefore, the heaters are mounted halfway down the tank.
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    #10 19977796
    mauri_b
    Heating systems specialist  
    Posts: 1055
    Help: 109
    Rate: 528
    ls_77 wrote:
    The most correct mounting location is the drain from the tank - only I have never dismantled this valve and I do not know what the thread is there.

    1/2"
  • #12 19978026
    syybin
    Level 10  
    Posts: 30
    Rate: 18
    Yes, there is 1/2. Only the length of the heater through the coils limits me. The question is what is the maximum length
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  • #13 19979956
    ROWE
    Level 34  
    Posts: 1987
    Help: 239
    Rate: 529
    syybin wrote:
    The question is what is the maximum length

    Like the design, it allows it to last as long as possible.
  • #14 20012936
    akm97
    Level 12  
    Posts: 274
    Rate: 78
    Hello. Did you manage to dig into the topic of adding a heater?
  • #15 20026079
    syybin
    Level 10  
    Posts: 30
    Rate: 18
    Unfortunately not. I don't know what length. And I don't want to buy blindly
  • #16 20026182
    akm97
    Level 12  
    Posts: 274
    Rate: 78
    Cross-sections of this reservoir are available online. They show that the coil extends to the drain hole. So in my opinion, either no heater will enter, because it will immediately catch on the coil, or practically every heater will enter if it "hit" the gaps between the coils
  • #17 20115722
    Jurek Jurecki
    Level 10  
    Posts: 46
    Rate: 8
    Is there the same answer to VIH R 200 regarding the addition of an electric heater as to VIH R 150? If it is not possible, does Vaillant offer such a 200l tank that would be easy to mount to the VKK 366 system with the VRC20 regulator existing since 2008?
  • #18 20116484
    VPS
    Level 25  
    Posts: 547
    Help: 87
    Rate: 229
    Do you absolutely need a VIH tank? It is not possible to mount an electric heater to any of the VIH series tanks. There are other companies' tanks on the market made of enamelled steel or stainless steel with exits from the top or side where there is a special place for the installation of an electric heater, usually 5/4" or 6/4". What is VRC20 because I do not know?
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  • #19 20117127
    Jurek Jurecki
    Level 10  
    Posts: 46
    Rate: 8
    sorry, it was supposed to be VRC 420

    please specify which one do you recommend /company model/ so that the replacement is the least troublesome, I wonder if I need as much as 200l, the more that we now live in 2 and sometimes 3 people?

    Or maybe a 200 liter will be more efficient? should I remove the old VIH200 and put a new one in its place? will control be maintained with my VRC 420?
  • #20 20117351
    VPS
    Level 25  
    Posts: 547
    Help: 87
    Rate: 229
    An average of 50 liters per person is assumed, so 150 liters is standard. If the HUW needs are greater, it is 200 litres. Whatever you choose, it will still be a rework of connections. I suggest enamelled Kospel, stainless steel Drazice Termica, Vasti. Currently, when replacing the tank, it is worth considering whether to choose a tank for the heat pump in the future (larger surface of the coil). To the pump as found and the gas boiler will heat hot water faster. VRC 420 is a controller for two heating circuits (radiators and floor) plus control of the hot water tank from the temperature sensor placed in the tank
  • #21 20128663
    maxhubus
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Hello
    Have your colleagues finally managed to come up with ways to add a heater through the drain valve in the Vaillant hot water tank?
  • #22 20129452
    ls_77
    Level 38  
    Posts: 2439
    Help: 500
    Rate: 944
    I asked the manufacturer of heaters about the possibility of using an electric heater - for a bathroom radiator - with a 1/2" thread, because such a thread is in place of the drain valve in Vaillant tanks and this is the answer I got:
    "The heaters are made of copper covered with a nickel coating, while
    tanks made of ordinary enamelled steel - no in terms of material
    has a problem with electrocorrosion and work in tap water.
    We suggest using a 1500W heater for 120l tanks,
    and 2000W for 150l and 200l tanks.
    The elements have thermostats with an adjustment range of 10-65 degrees Celsius, both
    also have immersion length (thread + heating element)
    520mm."
    1500W
    2000W

    I will just ask what if the heating element touches the coil in the tank - will there be a "corrosion point"?
    I am not sure if there is free space for the heater in these tanks, will the coil collide?

    "As a rule, we do not recommend the use of heaters in the event of a collision with the coil.
    At metal/metal contact, the heat dissipation occurs in a different way, which can lead to uneven heating of the heating element. In addition, each time there are so-called stray currents which may negatively affect the heating elements/tank. Contact to the coil would close the circuit, which could lead to faster operation. In such cases, the heating element on the thread should be insulated with insulating material."

    They go in length, but I don't know if they will touch the coil.
    It was also good to use a tee as for heaters for bathroom radiators and mount the heater through the hole, and the drain valve back on the outlet.

    I haven't done it myself, but I'll give it a try when I get the chance.
  • #23 20167548
    marmisie1974
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    Rate: 5
    Hello,
    The question is, how did you manage to dismantle the drain valve so that it can be glued or the heater will come in?
    I also want to check in my VIH r 150, but I have a valve by the wall, unscrew it, I would probably unscrew it and see something there, but I have a slightly difficult situation ...
    I also have photovoltaics and I’m trying to figure out what to do with the surpluses..
    I have already installed a few of these radiators - from Terma and through a tee it would be ok, plus a time switch and maybe it would be ok. The question is only about this coil and the temperature sensor, but I think that the sensor is in the middle of the tank, it would not interfere.

    mich
  • #24 20168027
    ls_77
    Level 38  
    Posts: 2439
    Help: 500
    Rate: 944
    Dora message - the heater went in without a problem.
    I turned the drain valve. Together with the heater there was a tee for assembly so I could screw the drain valve back into the side branch of the tee. Only between the muff in the tank and the tee I gave a short 1/2 "extension so that there was easy access to the drain valve. I had to tune the extension - drill its hole because it had a "hexagonal hole" and the heater did not enter it. The heater did nothing. Satisfied customer.
    I carried out the operation on a 120L tank + 2kW heater.
    Unfortunately I don't have any pictures because my phone died.
  • #25 20168999
    marmisie1974
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    Rate: 5
    ls_77 wrote:
    Dora message - the heater went in without a problem.
    I turned the drain valve. Together with the heater there was a tee for assembly so I could screw the drain valve back into the side branch of the tee. Only between the muff in the tank and the tee I gave a short 1/2 "extension so that there was a smooth access to the drain valve. I had to tune the extension - drill its hole because it had a "hexagonal hole" and the heater did not enter it. The heater did nothing. Satisfied customer.
    I carried out the operation on a 120L tank 2kW heater.
    Unfortunately I don't have any pictures because my phone died.


    Hello ,
    Well, that's great news. I will look at it in my WIH R 150 and let you know. Probably the issue of these coils of the coil so that they did not fall into the opening line ...
  • #26 20169204
    soldar45
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Hello. You can enter the name of the heater, manufacturer. VIH R 120/6 B storage tank
  • #28 20175518
    soldar45
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Thank you very much.
  • #29 20177423
    Lelon007
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    Rate: 4
    ls_77 wrote:
    Dora message - the heater went in without a problem.
    I turned the drain valve. Together with the heater there was a tee for assembly so I could screw the drain valve back into the side branch of the tee. Only between the muff in the tank and the tee I gave a short 1/2 "extension so that there was easy access to the drain valve. I had to tune the extension - drill its hole because it had a "hexagonal hole" and the heater did not enter it. The heater did nothing. Satisfied customer.
    I carried out the operation on a 120L tank 2kW heater.
    Unfortunately I don't have any pictures because my phone died.



    Hey, very good news.
    Was this tee included with the heater or did you have to order it separately?
    I understand that you had to drain the water from the boiler to install the tee and the heater?
    Thank you in advance for your response
  • #30 20178204
    ls_77
    Level 38  
    Posts: 2439
    Help: 500
    Rate: 944
    Yes - the nozzle was included with the heater.
    Yes - I had to drain the water from the tank.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion addresses the feasibility and methods of installing an electric heater in the Vaillant VIH R 150/6 B hot water storage tank, which originally lacks a dedicated heater mounting option. The common practice involves replacing the water drain valve (1/2" thread) with a custom or radiator-type electric heater, often using a tee fitting to retain the drain valve functionality. Installation challenges include limited internal space due to the coil arrangement, which can obstruct heater insertion, and variations in tank models and vintages affecting fitment. Heaters with lengths up to approximately 37-52 cm have been tested, with shorter heaters (around 20-40 cm) preferred for tanks mounted close to walls. Thermostats on heaters are often unnecessary or problematic; simpler heaters without thermostats are recommended, controlled externally via timers or smart sockets (e.g., Tuya, Sonoff). Installation typically requires draining or isolating water supply to prevent leaks, with some users successfully inserting heaters without full drainage by creating a vacuum in the tank. Power ratings of installed heaters range from 900W to 2000W, with 1000W suitable for smaller tanks (120L) mainly for temperature maintenance, and higher power (up to 2kW or more) recommended for larger tanks or full heating. Users report improved gas savings and integration with photovoltaic systems. Some report issues with heater cycling due to thermostat placement or installation method, suggesting direct tank connection without extensions to avoid overheating. Alternative tanks with built-in heater ports from other manufacturers (Kospel, Drazice Termica, Vasti) are suggested for easier installation. The discussion also covers control strategies for combined gas boiler and electric heater operation to optimize energy use and prevent legionella. Additional practical tips include enlarging the outer casing hole for heater fitment, sealing threads with tow or Teflon tape, and electrical wiring considerations (minimum 1.5 mm² wire). Some users share links to specific heaters and controllers, including Proecosolar and Chinese models, and discuss the pros and cons of anode removal and circulation to improve heat distribution.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A 1 kW screw-in heater lifted 120 L from 30 °C to 42 °C in 98 min [Elektroda, shysheq, post #20666140] “Nobody can do it better than yourself ;-)” [Elektroda, ls_77, post #20391911] Use the ½'' drain port, mind the coil, and seal carefully. Why it matters: a low-cost heater plus PV surplus can cut gas use by ≥ 80 %.

Quick Facts

• Drain-valve thread: ½'' BSPT (female) [Elektroda, mauri_b, post #19977796] • Safe heater length: 360 mm max for VIH 120; ≤ 200 mm needed when wall clearance < 18 cm [Elektroda, VPS, #20801377 & akm97, #21443238]. • Typical power range: 600 W – 2 kW (1 kW raises 120 L by 20 °C in ≈ 3 h) [Elektroda, shysheq, post #20666140] • Price examples: PLN 50 for 1 kW Chinese insert; PLN 300 for branded 2 kW radiator element [Elektroda, marendil, post #20255955] • Edge clearances: leave ≥ 5 mm between element and coil to avoid hotspots [Elektroda, ls_77, post #20129452]

Can I install an electric heater in a Vaillant VIH R 120/150/200 storage tank?

Yes. Users confirmed successful installs in VIH 120, 150 and 200 by replacing the drain-valve with a ½'' screw-in heater [Elektroda, civic9, #20681416; podleckipawel, #20901454; adam salamon, #20961672].

Do I need to drain the tank first?

Not always. Close cold-in and hot-out valves, open a tap until flow stops to create vacuum, then remove the drain valve—only ~200 ml escapes [Elektroda, lary79, post #20714690]

3-step How-To for a leak-free install?

  1. Close inlet/outlet valves and relieve pressure at a tap.
  2. Unscrew drain valve; probe with a rod to confirm clearance.
  3. Wrap heater thread with PTFE or hemp, screw directly into tank, tighten with open-end spanner, earth the element. [Elektroda, lary79, post #20750909]

Why did my heater cycle on/off every 5-10 minutes?

If a tee or extender leaves air around the thermostat, heat concentrates and triggers early cutoff. Screw the element directly into the tank or relocate the thermostat sensor [Elektroda, ls_77, #20388828; jakubowczarek, #21541003].

Will removing the magnesium anode reduce corrosion?

Keep the anode. Vaillant tanks are enamelled steel; a copper-nickel heater alone cannot provide cathodic protection [Elektroda, VPS, #19947717 & #20116484]. Softened water slows anode wear but does not replace it [Elektroda, akm97, post #21443263]

How do I control the heater with photovoltaic surplus?

Many users plug the heater into a Wi-Fi smart socket (e.g., Tuya, Shelly or Gosund) and schedule 2–3 h blocks when PV exports peak. A 1 kW load rarely pushes grid voltage beyond +1 V [Elektroda, vincitore, #20670136; akm97, #21473514].

Is extra earthing required?

Yes. Bond the heater sheath to the tank’s PE terminal or nearby equipotential bar; metal tanks count as Class I appliances [“IEC 60364-4-41”].

What common failure or edge case should I watch for?

Some 2 kW radiator elements jam on the coil; one user lost PLN 300 when the heater could not screw in [Elektroda, marendil, post #20255955] Always test with a dummy rod first.

How will the modification affect my gas boiler operation?

Set boiler DHW to ~40 °C. The heater tops up above that, yet the boiler still fires weekly for anti-Legionella at 65 °C, preventing ignition errors F28/F54 [Elektroda, civic9, #20767375 & lary79, #20767233].

Can I use an upper (anode) port for a high-power element instead?

Possible but not advised. The upper layer heats locally then the thermostat stops; only ≈ 10 % of tank volume reaches setpoint [Elektroda, andrzej lukaszewicz, post #19977710] Circulation pumps partly fix this but add complexity.
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