[Solved] Astra H 1.7 CDTI: Ignition Issues in High Temperatures (Above 20 Degrees)

Hello,
I have a problem with the Astra H 1.7 CDTI. When the outside temperature is high (above 20 degrees), the car fires after turning the key several times (no reaction before). The starter relay is OK (you can hear it ticking) and the current does not reach the starter automaton. What could be the reason?

Check all connections for damage and clean. Check brushes for 'hanging'.

Marcel Jas wrote:

The starter relay is OK (can be heard ticking)

Do you have a relay that gives current to the starter solenoid? Then replace it, having checked what your colleague wrote above.
The relay has legs described 87, 30, 85 and 86?
86 and 85 is control, powering the relay coil in plus and minus / ground, ticking - meaning working.
30 can be a plus power supply, and 87 plus this output to a starter automaton. Do you have voltage on 30 and 87 after turning the key?
I do not know the car, but if the relay is ticking, the voltage on one leg is 30 or 87, then the other should also be, unless the contacts do not connect by passing the current to the automat. Just because it is ticking does not yet mean that it properly shorts the input with the output.
On some such scheme I see that the 85 leg gets power from the engine controller, you do not have the option "press the clutch" or the brake, "gearbox", an additional switch that must be activated for the starter to work, because without this condition according to the manufacturer it is dangerous to fire engine? A car on the run could run something over, someone?

Quite a typical problem, the fuse box under the hood is divided, screws on the top (lugs 8 or 10), unscrew and lift the plate with fuses / relays. When you take off you will see either green corrosion or hot contacts.

current at the starter relay on the leg 30 and 87 is.
There is a gentle "buzzing" under the hood and ticking, after a few (few) turns of the key it fires and then "on the shot" fires at every touch, when you hear this gentle "buzzing" after disconnection no longer wants to start. Then again a few turns of the key (without the starter movement) and again the same - once it fires, then it fires several times without a problem. After removing the key and audible after a few moments disconnection (gushing) does not start again ... Could this be the engine control unit?

If so, the ABS lights, etc., would light up.
Are you 100% sure that the electricity is not reaching? If I don't want to start, the relay short circuit causes starting?
Because maybe the starter itself ends.

Connect an additional cord for starting the starter automaton, this is the thinnest cord at the starter, on the slide, or screwed with a small screw, so that you can touch the plus pole of the battery.
Sometimes, even he did not help me for a short time, but because the engine was down, I lost interest which could be a starter.
He behaved similarly.
I heard the knock on the machine, but the starter motor was not spinning.
I suspected a damaged impeller or automat.

Locate "buzzing", it can be sparking of two poorly contacting contacts, something else, not related to a colleague's problem or suggestion @ decybel91

decybel91 wrote:

If so, the ABS lights, etc., would light up.
Are you 100% sure that the electricity is not reaching? If I don't want to start, the relay short circuit causes starting?
Because maybe the starter itself ends.

The starter is ok. I checked the current on the machine - if it burns beautifully, but in those situations when it does not burn, there is no power to the starter. I switched the starter relay - no effect. Who once suggested a glow plug driver (short circuit) - there may be something, but I do not have to change. There are no errors ...

One more information - sometimes it happens that the fuel gauge drops after turning the key. Maybe it's CIM?
Question - if the current reaches the starter relay (ticking), can CIM "hold" the motor controller?

Added after 30 [minutes]:

g107r wrote:

Connect an additional cord for starting the starter automaton, this is the thinnest cord at the starter, on the slide, or screwed with a small screw, so that you can touch the plus pole of the battery.
Sometimes, even he did not help me for a short time, but because the engine was down, I lost interest which could be a starter.
He behaved similarly.
I heard the knock on the machine, but the starter motor was not spinning.
I suspected a damaged impeller or automat.

Locate "buzzing", it can be sparking of two poorly contacting contacts, something else, not related to a colleague's problem or suggestion @ decybel91

I checked the current on this "thin" cable and there is no current after turning the start ... It is on the starter relay on 30 and 87, but it should probably still be on some leg from the engine controller ...

To be sure, review these thick current cables and ground points. Look for loose connections or tarnished, burned out

thank you all for your help.
The engine driver proved to be the culprit. After replacement, everything is ok.
Regards

thank you all for your help.
The engine driver proved to be the culprit. After replacement, everything is ok.
Regards

Added after 2 [minutes]:

engine driver replaced