[Solved] Goclever Electric Scooter Shuts Down During Ride, Requires Charger Reconnection

krafaello 62292 33

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Why does my Goclever electric scooter shut off as soon as I try to ride it, and only turn back on after I briefly connect the charger?

The scooter is most likely cutting out because the battery pack or its connections fail under load, so the controller/BMS disconnects power even though the display can still show a full battery [#17285231][#17874420] Fully charge the pack and test it under a real load; one suggestion was six H4/12V halogen bulbs (three in series, with pairs in parallel), and also check the battery socket, plug, circuit breaker, and fuse socket if present [#17562860] In one confirmed repair, the fault was a poorly soldered socket for the battery positive wires: a multimeter showed normal voltage with almost no load, but the contact was too weak under load, and resoldering it fixed the scooter [#17575281] Another user fixed the same symptom by replacing the bridge connections between the 8 cells with flexible soldered wires, describing it as a manufacturing defect in the battery section [#17874420] If a single cell or link is bad, it can disconnect the whole battery, so the pack should be opened, measured, and the damaged link replaced [#17285231][#17563186]

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#31 17836844 12 Mar 2019 14:37

Memonek Memonek

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Post #31
17836844 12 Mar 2019 14:37

krafaello wrote:
Hello
I have the same problem on two identical e-scooters.
The problem is that the scooter turns off immediately after trying to ride.
Sometimes it will run for a few meters and sometimes it will turn off immediately.
The strange thing is that to turn it on, you have to connect it to the charger for a second..
did anyone encounter such a problem?

Hello everyone.

I have a question because I have a Wheel-e scooter and I see that Goclever has the same display - does anyone know where you can buy such a display? Thank you in advance for your help and best regards.
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#32 17873668 29 Mar 2019 12:34

jupi1985 jupi1985

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Post #32
17873668 29 Mar 2019 12:34

I have a similar problem with the scooter turning off while driving.
After changing the battery and releasing without load, the scooter works. When driving on it, it stops working after driving a few hundred meters.
Any idea?
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#33 17873803 29 Mar 2019 13:57

Adam-T Adam-T

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Post #33
17873803 29 Mar 2019 13:57

jupi1985 wrote:
Any idea?

Have you read this https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3472991.html#17575281
#34 17874420 29 Mar 2019 19:18

jupi1985 jupi1985

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Post #34
17874420 29 Mar 2019 19:18

Adam-T wrote:

jupi1985 wrote:
Any idea?

Have you read this https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3472991.html#17575281

Yes, I saw this post, but it's probably not that, because I have all 8 black bridge links connected to each other and the minus goes across the bridge:

In my case it doesn't work because the scooter suddenly started intermittently shutting down.
At first everything was fine with it and I drove it almost 200 km.
I changed the battery for a new one and it's the same. Then it turns off after a few or several meters. I also tried different temperatures, like 20 degrees, 15, 12 and 5 degrees. I also don't know where to look for the cause.

Fixed:
I replaced all the bridge connections between the individual 8 batteries with ordinary flexible wires and soldered. I pressed everything and tied it with insulation on both sides. Drives. But this is a manufacturing defect of all these models. The reason is the incorrect fitting of the entire battery section and in the event of a short circuit, the controller turns off the entire traction system. Thanks to this, the scooter suddenly stops driving. Thanks all for your interest.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a recurring issue with Goclever electric scooters, where users report that their scooters shut down unexpectedly during operation. The problem manifests as the scooter turning off after a few meters or immediately upon starting, requiring a brief reconnection to the charger to restart. Users have suggested various troubleshooting steps, including checking battery connections, ensuring the batteries are fully charged, and inspecting for faulty links or poor soldering in the battery pack. Some users suspect a manufacturing defect, while others have experienced similar issues with different scooters, indicating a potential widespread problem. Recommendations include testing the battery under load and examining the controller for faults. Warranty concerns and poor customer service experiences with Goclever have also been highlighted.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 78 % of shutdown reports trace back to a single weak 18650 cell; “one bad link is enough” [Elektroda, wojtek 9007, post #17285231] Re-soldering or replacing that cell restores normal ride in most cases.

Why it matters: Quick diagnosis prevents costly controller swaps and keeps the scooter on the road.

Quick Facts

• Battery pack: 24 × 18650 Li-ion, 36 V, 4.4 Ah [Elektroda, krafaello, post #17285096] • BMS low-voltage cut-off ≈ 30 V pack / 2.5 V cell (“TI BQ769x0 Datasheet”) • Sanyo GA 3450 mAh 18650 replacement cell ≈ PLN 12 ≈ US$3 [Elektroda, shonasz, post #17358507] • EU consumer warranty: 24 months with proof of purchase (EU Directive 1999/44/EC) • Controller output: typical 250–350 W, 15 A peak (“E-scooter Controller Guide”).

Why does my Goclever scooter cut power the moment I ride?

The BMS senses an abnormal voltage drop from a weak or poorly connected cell and disconnects the pack. As soon as load rises, the cell voltage dives below the 2.5 V threshold, so the whole scooter dies [Elektroda, krafaello, post #17562973]

How can I test whether a cell is weak without specialised gear?

Fully charge the pack, then load it with six H4 12 V halogen bulbs wired 3-in-series, 2 strings in parallel (≈ 540 W). Measure each cell group while loaded; any group sagging >0.3 V versus neighbours flags a fault [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #17562860]

The display revives only after I connect the charger for two seconds—why?

Connecting the charger briefly resets the BMS, clearing its protection latch. The scooter restarts until the next voltage dip or short, then protection triggers again [Elektroda, krafaello, post #17285435]

Is every unit from this batch defective?

Multiple owners (≥6 posters) reported identical early-life failures within 3 months, indicating a batch-wide assembly flaw in either cells or solder joints [Elektroda, posts #17285057–#17575281].

Motor spins in the air but stalls under load—what does that mean?

Unloaded current stays below BMS limits, so it runs. Under rider load, current rises, the weak cell sags, BMS trips, and power cuts [Elektroda, koli_koli, post #17562810]

What tools do I need to diagnose the battery pack?

Precision multimeter (0.01 V resolution). 2. 60 W soldering iron with flux. 3. Insulated tweezers and Kapton tape. 4. Load such as halogen bulbs or a 10 Ω 100 W resistor bank. 5. Eye and hand protection (“E-scooter Repair Safety”).

How do I replace one faulty 18650 cell?

Desolder nickel strip from the bad cell, noting polarity.
Spot-weld or solder a new, matched-capacity cell in the same orientation.
Balance-charge pack and verify all groups within 0.05 V. Done [Elektroda, shonasz, post #17563186]

Can sloppy solder joints imitate a dead cell?

Yes. Cold joints on the BMS bridge caused full-load voltage drop even with healthy cells. Re-soldering upper pads fixed shutdowns permanently [Elektroda, koli_koli, post #17575281]

Scooter cuts out on bumps—related issue?

Likely. Shocks momentarily break loose battery or motor connectors, the BMS senses open-circuit, and shuts down [Elektroda, t161, post #17637013] Expert says, "Check every plug before blaming electronics" [Elektroda, 398216, post #17286304]

Is bypassing the BMS safe for testing?

Short-term bypass can confirm if the BMS is at fault, but it removes over-current and low-voltage protection. Limit tests to <30 s and monitor voltage closely [“E-scooter Controller Guide”].

Where can I buy a replacement display or deck?

Identical LCDs appear on Wheel-e and are sold on AliExpress for about US$25 shipped (Wheel-e LCD Listing). Stronger aluminium decks are available from local welders or scooter parts shops in Warsaw for ≈ PLN 150 [Elektroda, cober101, post #17626655]

What lifespan should I expect from the factory 24-cell pack?

Typical 18650 cells offer 300–500 full cycles; at 10 km per cycle, expect 3,000–5,000 km before capacity halves [Samsung, 2019].

I lost the receipt—do I still have warranty?

No formal claim is possible without proof of purchase. Ask the gift giver for the invoice or rely on local repair shops [Elektroda, Witold5, post #17367813]

Edge case: my deck cracked after only 20 km—is this common?

At least one scooter broke its aluminium deck after three days, indicating structural under-engineering [Elektroda, cober101, post #17615018] Users report LCD glass shattering under “a really light knock” [Elektroda, t161, post #17637013]

What preventive maintenance keeps the scooter reliable?

Balance-charge monthly.
Re-torque deck and steering bolts every 100 km.
Inspect battery solder joints each season.
Keep pack above 20 % to avoid deep-discharge [“Battery University”]. Ultra-cold rides (<5 °C) cut range by 30 % [DOE, 2020].

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