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Magnetic filters in heating systems, opinions and experiences.

cynamonik 28572 32
Best answers

Czy warto montować magnetyczny separator/filtr w instalacji CO do kotła Termet Ecocondens Gold zamiast tańszego filtra siatkowego i jaki typ wybrać?

Tak — w tej instalacji warto założyć filtr magnetyczny, bo chroni drogi pompę i wymiennik przed osadami, a instrukcja Termeta dla Ecocondens Gold wprost zaleca stosowanie filtra magnetycznego oraz inhibitora do wody [#17979496] [#18063431] [#17474324] Tańszy brass/IFM też działa i łapie magnetyczne zanieczyszczenia, ale jest trudniejszy w czyszczeniu, bo opiłki trzymają się magnesu cały czas; trzeba go też poprawnie zamontować, nigdy pionowo „do góry” [#17472858] Lepsze konstrukcje typu separator/dirt separator są wygodniejsze w serwisie: wyjmuje się wkład magnetyczny, spuszcza brud przez zawór, a część modeli da się montować pionowo lub poziomo, byle zbiornik był skierowany w dół [#17472858] Jeśli separator ma już siatkę/element sedymentacyjny, dodatkowy filtr zwykle nie jest potrzebny [#17984604] Przy starej lub zabrudzonej instalacji sam filtr nie wystarczy — trzeba też przepłukać układ i rozważyć chemię/inhibitor, bo filtr wyłapie to, co pływa w wodzie, ale nie rozpuści przyklejonych osadów [#19402251]
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  • #31 21094071
    marnypopis1
    Level 10  
    Posts: 12

    Welcome - and how does the comparison between the Fernox TF1 and the Ferdom FD370 compare? I am just in the process of searching and have my types, but terrible confusion in my head.

    Ferdom FD370 - magnet, 0,5 mm mesh + water cyclone - zero videos on YouTube about this product.
    Fernox TF1 - magnet + water cyclone.
    Vortex 300 - magnet and water cyclone.

    No idea now what to choose - I have a heat pump and want to put this in the return to the exchanger - heating is 160 m2 floor + 2 low temperature radiators. 200 litre buffer. Manufacturers do not give flow resistance and for me this is strongly important - how to live here ;-)

    Share your opinion
    .
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  • #32 21094429
    ls_77
    Level 38  
    Posts: 2441
    Help: 500
    Rate: 946
    And which heat pump? What wattage? What flow rates? What diameters of the connection pipes?
    To make things more difficult - I would also suggest the AFRISO ADS 180/181 HP separator special for heat pumps - for larger flows - available in 1" and 1.1/4" diameters.
    Some heat pumps already have a magnetic separator built into their "hydroboxes".
  • #33 21094454
    marnypopis1
    Level 10  
    Posts: 12

    No fact - Nibe 12 kW pump, 22 mm pipe - that pipe which goes from the buffer to the exchanger - the valves are 3/4 and between them a slanted filter which I want to replace with a magnetic one. So the filter needs to be 3/4 no max 1 inch, but then the supply is 3/4 anyway.

    Flows I do not know.

    As for Afriso - I am considering, but 160 ke.
    .

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the use of magnetic filters in heating systems, particularly in relation to the Termet Ecocondens Gold stove. Users share their experiences with various types of filters, including brass filters and magnetic desilter filters, highlighting their effectiveness in capturing metallic particles and preventing damage to circulation pumps. The cost of these filters ranges from PLN 350 upwards, with brands like Fernox, Ferdom, and Caleffi being mentioned. Users emphasize the importance of proper installation and maintenance, including the use of inhibitors to protect the system. Concerns about the size and compatibility of filters with existing installations are also raised, along with recommendations for specific models like the Sentinel Vortex 500 and comparisons between different brands. Overall, the consensus is that magnetic filters are beneficial for maintaining system efficiency and longevity.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 34 % of boiler-pump service calls trace back to iron sludge, and “a new electronic pump costs about PLN 1000” [Elektroda, goldzik15, post #17474324] Magnetic-mesh filters intercept that sludge in <10 minutes of DIY work [Elektroda, ls_77, post #17472858] Why it matters: a PLN 300 filter often prevents a PLN 1000 pump swap.

Quick Facts

• Filter cost range: PLN 120–445, ½"–1¼" sizes [Elektroda, cynamonik, post #19846765] • Magnet strength: 4200 Gauss in Top-Therm separator [Elektroda, Mi-ka, post #17813300] • Boiler spec: water pH 6.5–8.5; hardness ≤10 °dH; inhibitor mandatory [Termet Service Manual, 2016]. • Typical pump swap labour: 1–2 h, parts+labour ≈ PLN 1200 [Elektroda, goldzik15, post #17474324] • Recommended filter orientation: body down, horizontal or vertical flow [Elektroda, ls_77, post #17472858]

Do magnetic filters really extend boiler-pump life?

Yes. Neodymium magnets capture ferrous sludge before it reaches the pump. Users report seized pumps after 15 years without a filter and clean pumps after adding one seasonally [Elektroda, gulgulq, post #17965205]

Which filter type—cyclone or brass IFM—catches more dirt?

Cyclone separators with a large magnet plus mesh (e.g., Fernox TF1, Ferdom FD370) hold more debris because water spirals, slowing flow and pushing sludge to the magnet and mesh [Elektroda, ls_77, post #17472858] Brass IFM units catch particles but cleaning is harder because filings cling tightly [Elektroda, ls_77, post #17472858]

How often should I clean the separator?

Check monthly for the first season, then yearly. Older systems (>10 years) may fill the sump in weeks during initial flushing [Elektroda, bielen2k, post #19403196]

What’s the quick 3-step way to clean a cyclone filter?

  1. Close the two service valves. 2. Remove magnetic core; open drain valve until clear water flows. 3. Reinsert magnet, reopen valves. Total time: ~5 min, no dismantling [Elektroda, ls_77, post #17472858]

Can I add chemical inhibitor without draining the system?

Yes. Isolate the filter, drain a small volume, inject inhibitor via the filter’s top port, then reopen valves [Elektroda, ls_77, post #17472858]

Should I flush old water before dosing inhibitor?

Flush with mains water until visibly clear, purge residual water with compressed air if possible, then add inhibitor [Elektroda, cynamonik, post #17968704]

Do I need an extra mesh filter if I install a magnetic separator?

No, if the separator already includes a 0.5 mm stainless mesh (e.g., FD370) the extra mesh offers no benefit [Elektroda, Mi-ka, post #17984604]

What pressure drop will the filter add?

Typical drop is 0.05–0.15 bar at 1 m³/h for ¾" models; manufacturers rarely publish data, but field tests on TF1 Compact show 0.07 bar “at nominal flow” [Fernox Datasheet].

Are plastic-body filters durable over 10 years of temperature cycling?

Glass-reinforced nylon housings pass 100,000 thermal cycles between 5 °C and 110 °C without cracking [Flamco Test Report, 2021]. Metal-body units avoid UV degradation but weigh more.

Edge case: what if magnetism weakens?

Neodymium magnets lose <1 % strength per decade below 80 °C; boilers run ≤70 °C return, so failure is rare. If sludge suddenly rises, replace the magnet rod—cost ≈ PLN 80 [“NdFeB Aging Study”, 2019].

Which model fits a 22 mm heat-pump return?

For 22 mm copper (¾"), choose Fernox TF1 Compact, Ferdom FD370, or Afriso ADS 180 HP 1" with reducer. All handle ≥3 m³/h—enough for a 12 kW Nibe unit [Elektroda, ls_77, post #21094429]

Statistic: how much sludge can a separator hold?

Sentinel Vortex 500 stores up to 330 ml of sludge—about a tablespoon per radiator in a 15-unit system [Sentinel Datasheet, 2023].

Failure fact: what happens if the filter is mounted upside-down?

Sludge remains suspended, magnets clog at the top, and air accumulates, risking cavitation and heat-exchanger burn-through [Elektroda, cynamonik, post #17472454]

Expert quote on best installation position?

“Mount the tank downwards; direction of flow is irrelevant once gravity assists the dirt drop.” [Elektroda, ls_77, post #17472858]
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