Magnetic filters in heating systems, opinions and experiences.

In the instructions for the purchased Termet Ecocondens Gold stove, it is written that the manufacturer recommends using the filter as in the topic.
I asked a few fitters and service technicians, most replied to forgive themselves.
On the part of Termet, there was a suggestion that it is worth connecting it to the installation, because it has: a strong neodymium magnet, which catches metallic particles, the so-called magnetic sludge, and additionally, mechanical impurities using centrifugal force. Thus, it protects the PWM circulation pump, which currently costs about PLN 1000 and which also has a very strong magnet and collects impurities, which contributes to its damage and improper operation.

In some stores you can see how the filter works on specially prepared simplified models.
The problem is that:
- the cost of such a filter with connection valves is from about PLN 350 up (Caleffi, Ferdom, Fernox, Abbey)
- the housings are made of various materials and it is not known how they will behave after 10 years of contact with water, which changes the temperature cyclically
- the popularity is not visible on the Allegro, the sale is literally a few pieces
- require some space for mounting
- Is it possible to buy, for example, a cartridge or other components that break when disassembled or fallen in a few years?

I attach a picture:



While browsing the offers, I also noticed simpler brass sediment and oblique mesh filters, also magnetic, because they have a magnetic insert (a pile of ferrite magnets arranged coaxially on a brass ring mandrel, separated by spacers). Such a filter is called IFM costs about PLN 120 and on the outside it resembles a regular oblique mesh filter. Also in this case, there is no interest in, for example, Allegro. In one of the two large wholesalers, the seller did not know the technology .. :)

I enclose links to the manufacturers' websites (if they do not work for some time, they are clear enough that you can find them in google archives with after-visible words) and a photo:
http://www.infracorr.com.pl/wsparcie-technicz...42-prawidlowy-dobor-filtrow-magnetycznych-ifm
https://onninen.pl/pl-PL/filtr-magnetyczny-ifm-32-gwint-ifm32g-infracorr,HCG542
This type of filters can be mounted with the longitudinal axis vertically or horizontally, but the most important thing is that the strainer housing and the outlet point downwards.
I enclose a drawing and a quote from the DTR.



What do you say ? At the moment, I plan to install a cheaper option
I just can't understand why a regular O-ring was not used to seal it, but a fiber gasket, which "sticks" to the surface with time and it is difficult to remove / prepare the surface for a new one.

A heartfelt request not to tie in to threads unrelated to the topic and thus not diminish clarity. Thank you for your understanding.

I have already used both types of filters. And those resembling ordinary brass with a magnetic insert and those magnetic desilter filters.
As for the "brass" Infrcor - it is cheaper, it catches magnetic particles, but it is quite difficult to clean - magnetic particles stick to the magnet all the time. This seal is not on a fiber seal, but a plastic one. Of course, the way the filter is mounted is important - never vertically pointing upwards! In my opinion, filters 3/4 "and 1" have a very similar flow cross-section in the settling part.
As for magnetic desilter filters. There are different designs - they can be mounted vertically and horizontally regardless of the direction of the flowing water, but the tank must be facing downwards. Ease of cleaning - remove the magnetic insert and use the valve to drain the water with sludge. Some have a manual air bleed valve at the top of the casing cover, which can be fitted automatically, which improves air venting of the installation. They can easily refill chemical additives to the installation - turn off the valves, drain the water and pour liquids through the top cover, e.g. inhibitor.
Recently, I have noticed a "flood" of various products from different manufacturers.
From my own experience, I like it the least Flamco

I am waiting for the opinions of others.

Thanks such entries are very valuable.
As for brass filters, "did you try the compressed air stream, brushes as suggested in the instructions? I think a little brush would do the trick.

If the old installation is worth it. The heat exchanger in Termety is made of acid-resistant steel. It's like taking a flat pipe with a diameter of 13-15 mm and wrapping it around and putting a burner inside. The exchanger acts as a desilter, it significantly slows down the flow and all sludge from the installation settles in the exchanger, slower water flow, the hole will burn out soon and you do not weld such an exchanger because the pipe wall is maybe half a mm thick. Despite the flushing of the installation, something will always be left. In addition, if a steel installation or steel radiators, sometimes the air comes somewhere, something breaks off the installation, etc., and it goes to the pump on the return. The new electronic pumps have an impeller with a very strong neodymium magnet. If you do not have such a neodymium magnet filter in front of the boiler, the pump will stop it. It takes time to dismantle the pump, and the filings that stick to the pump may even make it impossible to repair it. A new boiler pump costs +/- PLN 1000, and a filter PLN 300?
I think I have partially dispelled my doubts as to whether it is worth investing. I will look for photos to show what the pump looks like after a few years without such a filter.

Hello. The cost of such a filter is about 3 PLN, the investor usually looks at the cost of service and material, but I personally try to persuade the customer to use these filters. Personally, I use toptherm filters in cleaning, they are convenient and will effectively catch every 'flower in the installation'
Regards.

Goldzik,
Have you found a photo of the pump covered with sludge? I thought about disassembling it at home for comparison. Is it a lot of work?

I already have two magnetic filters installed: one Fernox, the other Ferdom ...
soon I will start a new topic and share my impressions.

Can you give photos of what these filters look like so that you can imagine their dimensions against the background of the boiler? I haven't seen these live filters yet, but they seem quite large, so I wonder how to squeeze them in in the apartment with the boiler hanging in the kitchen, close to the gas stove.

Sealing on the o-ring - a product of Top-therm Polska, a magnet with a power of 4 200 Gauss, diameters from 1/2 "to 2"

Added after 1 [minutes]:



This is exactly what it looks like

Added after 5 [minutes]:



And this is what the separator has - total height 13 cm, diameter 6 cm

Thanks ! The product looks very interesting - it is a pity that the website https://top-therm.pl/o-firmie/ did not provide any information about the products ...
After all, the promised article on the experiences with magnetic filters ...
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3572065.html#17898706

I remind you we write in a given thread bearing in mind the topic!

Just yesterday I had a service technician visit - my pump stopped and I was betting that it simply fell / stuck. The service technician dismantled the pump, cleaned it and ordered a filter of this type to be installed on the installation. The pump stopped just as a result of sedimentation from the water (18-year-old installation - copper, steel radiators)
I'm going to buy a 1/2 "or 3 /" brass one and mount it. In addition, he recommended adding an inhibitor to the water, but he did not recommend a specific product - anyone knows a good product?

If you are going to buy a Fernox Filter / Separator, a bottle of inhibitor is included:
Fernox TF1 Total Filter
Fernox TF1 Compact Filter
FERDOM also has filters and inhibitors (purchased separately):
FERMAG 360 filter
CH-33 inhibitor

Gulgulq,

On April 11, 2019, I posted a link to the second thread about the impressions of using filters, where there is also a link to materials and advice on how to choose inhibitors:
https://www.ferdom.pl/index.php?a=lista&k=71

good luck !

My question is whether before using the inhibitor, empty the "old" boiler water and pour fresh water or leave what is and add only the inhibitor. I will not be able to empty the entire installation because the ground floor is under the floor and the drain is above the pipes - the installation is completely copper and the Kermi steel radiators.

Call Ferdom. According to the instructions, rinse as much as possible under the pressure of fresh clean water, as when refilling the installation. What is left under the floor should be "pushed" with compressed air, but there will probably be something left anyway. Later with the flow it will be deposited on the filter. Read detailed instructions on how to use the products .. I've given the place before. Nobody will do this for you - forgive me.

As I once called Termet (before starting and filling the installation) - I also have a stove from this company, they did not recommend the inhibitor to me. I do not know if it is for the customer or for profit, as I will have to repair the furnace or replace it with a new one.

Paweł1355 wrote:

As I once called Termet (before starting and filling the installation) - I also have a stove from this company, they did not recommend the inhibitor to me. I do not know if it is for the customer or for profit, as I will have to repair the furnace or replace it with a new one.

I will not comment if the boiler manufacturer does not recommend the inhibitor, he probably wants to recommend the pump and exchanger replacement.

Well, not all know or don't want to know.

Mi-ka wrote:

I will not comment if the boiler manufacturer does not recommend the inhibitor, he probably wants to recommend the pump and exchanger replacement.

Just Termet recommends the inhibitor, it even tells you that it MUST BE USED.
Below is a quote from the service manual of the Termet Gold condensing boiler:

Quote:

Water treatment for filling the installation
Water with the following parameters should be used for filling the installation: pH from 6.5 to 8.5 units, total hardness not more than 10 ° n (~ 18 ° F). Demineralised water or distilled water may not be used for filling. To ensure adequate protection against limescale and corrosion of the installation an appropriate inhibitor (passivator) must be used eg Protector F1 from Fernox. Additionally, you can also use a heat transfer fluid, such as HP-5, or antifreeze, such as Alphi 11 from Fernox.
In situations where there is very hard water, the use of the liquid heat carrier HP-5 effectively reduces the risk of scaling in the heat exchanger.

Added after 6 [minutes]:

Paweł1355 wrote:

How I used to call Termet (before starting and filling the installation)

Depends on when exactly you called.
Because when I bought my boiler a dozen or so years ago, no one specifically recommended inhibitors, but after a few years Vaillant also began to post information that inhibitors are recommended.
Knowing life, the manufacturers of inhibitors had to set fire to the boiler manufacturers and now everyone gets along

Quote:

Knowing life, the manufacturers of inhibitors had to set fire to the boiler manufacturers and now everyone gets along

Exactly at the beginning of 2015 when I bought a stove.
Reading this, I started to think about flushing the installation and refilling with inhibitoren, e.g. Super DS and CH2. What do you think about this measure?

Is it worth adding an additional filter on the installation when inserting a magenta filter? Anti-contamination, mesh, settling etc?

gulgulq wrote:

Is it worth adding an additional filter on the installation when inserting a magenta filter? Anti-contamination, mesh, settling etc?

If the magnetic filter has a sediment / mesh filter, I don't see the need.

Information included in my 2015 Ecokondens Gold boiler manual - In the central heating system it is allowed to use antifreeze fluids recommended for use as a heat carrier
co. systems

In the instruction IIO-663: 2016 / PL for INSTALLATION AND OPERATION, condensing gas central heating boilers for the ECOCONDENS Gold Plus stove, page 11, it is stated that the use of magnetic filters is recommended. In my opinion, the company and the manufacturer does not matter .. just adapt to your needs and recognize the effectiveness / ease of use.

Do you use such a magnetizer in your installation?

Read the whole topic more carefully, you will find a link to the article with details.

I will join the discussion and refresh the topic.

I moved to a house where the installation is about 15 years old. Oil boiler, floor heating and plate radiators. The heating season is ending and before I fire the oil boiler and change it into a heat buffer (heaters in the buffer 2000 liters - calculated for my area), I want to flush the installation using a dirt separator. I am thinking of the Sentinel Vortex 500 for 1 "tube.

Any of you have experience with this magnetic filter? I am looking for the opinions of users as well as those who can (installers?) Compare different separators.

There is a lot of dirt in my installation, so before replacing and changing from an open to a closed system, I have to do a specific order.

The magnetic filter cleans the traps that float, i.e. they are dissolved in the water, but there are also traps that took the form of deposits stuck to the surface, so I would rather first rinse with appropriate chemicals to dissolve these deposits, so the magnetic filter alone will not solve the matter . The filter itself would be good for a new installation that has no sediment yet, then the filter hinders the accumulation of such sediments and their deposition, because it catches them on an ongoing basis.

Definitely yes, I mentioned a specific order I already have a pump, so after the picnic I will start a great rinse, obviously preceded by pouring some good agent into the system.

I asked about filters but something I feel is a niche topic because I can't find tests and comparisons. So I ordered Sentinel Vortex 500. Big because the rinsing will be about 60l / min. As soon as some time comes, I will share my opinion about this equipment. I will also record a video to illustrate it better.

bielen2k wrote:

I feel that this is a niche topic because I cannot find tests and comparisons

you know, in my opinion it would be a bit difficult to check the filter performance in practice.
Because you are unlikely to get the same initial conditions to have some point of reference for comparison.
In addition, the magnetic filter under normal conditions is cleaned once a year, because I doubt anyone would do it more often.
The exception is a freshly installed filter, because then, due to the accumulation of impurities, it may be required to empty the filter more often.

At the moment, Fernox inhibitors have been recommended to me from several independent sources.

Bielen2k,
how rinsing? is the sludge clogged / clogged the exchanger? goldzik15 wrote about it on 2 October 2018

I am before replacing another Termet MiniMax furnace with a Termet Ecocondes Silver 20 kW, I wonder what to choose from the available magnetic filter offer.
There are more and more of them on alledrogo, at even better prices than 3 years ago ... because if something is popular, then there are fakes or more / less successful clones
Certainly, all products with integrated shut-off valves, such as Tiemme Order number: 3150039, Caleffi 545900, are out of the question. I don't know who designs these devices, but how can you assume the power supply from the top and the drain from the bottom part of the body? After all, what the magnet does not catch is at the bottom ...
Another thing, elaborately arranged connections .. and yet there are a lot of pipes under the stove and no space. The most sensible type of connection is linear ... when the filter is installed on a cut, straight piece of installation and does not change the direction of its flow (no additional 4 elbows!) or such a system in which the filter is mounted where the installation changes the gear by 90 degrees - examples of two common versions:


In many cases, it is surprising that there is no air vent!

Thus, my types are:
FERDOM FD 380 and FD110 the latter does not have a vent (PLN 250-300)
CALEFFI Dirtmag (about PLN 445)
FERNOX TF1 family (> 400 PLN, but how to disassemble it, a nice version of Omega ??), the downside is the lack of a filter mesh, and from what I can see in the TF1 Compact I have, the "cyclone" does not catch sludge or it is not in the installation
SENTINEL Vortex 300 (420 pln)
MAG FILTER BRASS FORM Greek product, finally transparent lower part of the body, but no marking / model (350 pln)
TIEMME 3150003 (275 pln)
PINTOSSI + C ART 9085

I omitted offers without a technical drawing with dimensions, without a cross-section, etc.

Angle filters do not arouse my confidence though ... the magnets in them are much weaker and not neodymium. The jet of water is fast and additionally distant, small magnets may be ineffective. Two installers confirmed their observations. Besides, the filters that were on offer some time ago are no longer available ... it's puzzling. On the other hand, PLN 150-200 for an angular filter, which often does not even have a photo after disassembly, information about basic parameters or a well-known logo is way too much!