Connecting Danfoss Link BR Relay to Vaillant ecoTec Plus Boiler: Diagram and Settings Needed

Flows are at the level of 1.2 l/min. Previously, with the Vaillant weather controller alone, there was no problem in the living room, it heated up to 22 degrees and turned off the stove, then when the temperature dropped to 21, it turned it on again. However, now when controlling the Salus VS30/35 room thermostats with the PWM system, this problem occurs. In addition, the Salus strip turns the stove on and off very often and I do not know how it can affect its life. It also seems to me a more economical earlier solution with only the Vaillant weather regulator, only that then I could not regulate the temperature in other rooms only in the living room.

Maybe some "intelligence" of the Salus drivers causes this - maybe they have some prediction algorithm and it limits something?
Maybe the technical department of Salus will advise something.

ls_77 wrote:

Wojtasinskiw wrote:

I had to disconnect the room control panel and the external temperature sensor.

But why? you could have left. If you had an ext. then you had a weather regulator. Probably some CalorMatic. On it, you can turn off the influence of the room temperature, leaving the room temperature control to Danfoss Link, and in the Vaillant regulator, leave only the weather control, i.e. the dependence of operation (temperature of water flowing from the boiler to the central heating) on external conditions. Now the boiler will be switched on with a constant temperature set on the boiler - not very economical.

@ls_77
Hello.
I have a Vaillant Atmotec Plus VUW PL 240/3-5 boiler with a CalorMatic 370 regulator which is placed in the boiler. Boiler used only for central heating without hot water. Radiators throughout the house on the ground floor and first floor, one circuit. I’m going to buy a Salus RX10RF to be able to adjust the temperature in different rooms through the SALUS SQ610RF regulators. And now I have some questions.
1. Where on the stove should I connect the COM and NO wires coming from the RX10RF, so that I do not lose the weather control from CalorMatic?
2. Can the RX10RF power supply come from the boiler or is a separate power supply recommended?
3. Do I additionally need to change anything else in the CalorMatic options so that the temperature control is carried out only by Salus?
Regards

Calor Matrix 370 is a room regulator without regulation. weather. Are you sure it's this number?

NO and COM contacts are connected to contacts 3-4 in the boiler in place of the jumper.

If it's Calor Matic of this. weather, you need to turn off the influence of room temperature, but if it is installed in the boiler, it should not measure it.

ls_77 wrote:

Calor Matrix 370 is a room regulator without regulation. weather. Are you sure it's this number?

NO and COM contacts are connected to contacts 3-4 in the boiler in place of the jumper.

If it's Calor Matic of this. weather, you need to turn off the influence of room temperature, but if it is installed in the boiler, it should not measure it.

You're right, my mistake, I have a vrc470 mounted in the boiler. Influence is set to none. I understand that if the Salus is connected to contacts 3-4 in the furnace, I can leave the vrc470 connected to the ebus connectors to control the temperature of the furnace based on the outside weather? Then the Salus is only responsible for switching the boiler on and off. I understand correctly?

barteksz90 wrote:

I understand that if the salus is connected to contacts 3-4 in the furnace, I can leave the vrc470 connected to the ebus connectors to control the temperature of the furnace based on the outside weather? Then the salus is only responsible for switching the boiler on and off. I understand correctly?

This is.

ls_77 wrote:

barteksz90 wrote:

I understand that if the salus is connected to contacts 3-4 in the furnace, I can leave the vrc470 connected to the ebus connectors to control the temperature of the furnace based on the outside weather? Then the salus is only responsible for switching the boiler on and off. I understand correctly?

This is.

Cool. I have to set something else in vrc470, besides the influence of temperature on. lack? Delete time periods like 05:00-23:00 heating temperature - day?

Regards

You can reset the time intervals

Hello, I have a Vaillant ecotec plus boiler, top and bottom only floor heating, temperature control in each room with tech room regulators. And my question, will it be possible to connect two tech strips from the lower and upper distributor to the voltage-free contact? In the picture I saw that there is one 24v cube, two strips in the same place, it doesn't make sense? There are two circulation pumps in the boiler room, downstairs and up, the strip fires the pump when there is a need to heat a room. But the boiler does not fire immediately, only with a considerable delay. In general, the temperature in the rooms remains at the set level, although it is currently only 15 degrees, because the building is still in its shell, but I wonder if it will work when we live there. My point is to have more control over the boiler through room regulators. Regards

I will give a little back, because i.e. a good example of col. @Wojtasinskiw, final:

Wojtasinskiw wrote:

I am very pleased, but it took me a few days to get everything in tune.
In the danfoss link control panel, in the service system, there are all settings...

col. in this situation you don't need the heating curve with control. weather, as Col.
Because the weather regulator in the first place ensures the comfort of using heating for household members, for which you have to pay extra, and then, if the system allows, there are savings.
Besides, this is an issue that is difficult for the average user to grasp, and for this reason it does not work everywhere.

Too little is said about this issue for consumers.
So col. you have installed what you need and most importantly that you are in control of it and you can also use the above installation economically.

And let me join the topic:

Vaillant ecotec plus oven and colormatic 740 controller

Two-circuit Radiators and underfloor heating, three-way valve.

The problem now is that I gave the room regulator for repair, the stove works, the pump does not.

For this I have a mixer module VR 61/2 Controlling pumps.

I was advised to connect the Boiler with mixer soap with a best connector and thus use the installation more economically, but unfortunately the module does not have this input. Does it make sense to extend it with an additional module that would turn on the burner blockade??

If I have set the colormatic to "none", I have not noticed that the controller changes the temperature on the boiler all the time, it is the same as I set it.

In addition, under the right button on the boiler, I can change the central heating temperature, which is also strange because the regulator is responsible for it when it is not there, then I can set it on the boiler

Added after 5 [minutes]:

Is it possible to set a high temperature on the condensate boiler. Two funk??

I always thought that 40 ° is the maximum and six can be set more, then the combustion will be greater

@robertkudelka write correctly in Polish, with commas, etc. etc.
Even the eyes and brain can't comprehend what you've written. Terribly chaotic description.

>>17500798 .
Welcome,

Further to the hints, I am looking for an option to pull a signal from the boiler or the VR61 mixer module that the Vaillant boiler "burner" is working or not, in order to appropriately override a 4.5kW 3F electric heater (Sagittarius central heating system reheater) plugged into the central heating system in series:
1. the boiler burner and the circulation pump are working, then switch the heater on,
2. the boiler burner is not working and the circulation pump is not working, then switch the heater off,

Is there a signal on the boiler board or the VR61 (voltage or no voltage) which I can add in series to control the final contactor of the heater, because so far I only have control via the contactor, but from the circulation pump, but even though the burner is off, the pump is running (it has a freewheel). It is known that in winter the WILO pump will be working practically non-stop, and this is not a correct solution, because then the heater will also be working.

Thanks for any hints on where to get such a signal - VC 206/5-5 boiler, Calormatic 470, VR61 mixer module

Currently, the circuit is connected to the connector on the VR61 (HK 2-P as shown in the photo below) and turns on the coil of the RE17RAMU timer relay with a 5 minute delay and then turns on the 3F iCTK50-25-40-230 module contactor.

VR61 mixer module

.

Boiler control board



Physically connected heater in the system



Heater control box

Unfortunately - there is no signal in either the boiler or the VR61 when the burner and pump are running.

Well how about a different one, where is the voltage at the green marked connectors, e.g. 12V or 24V, when the boiler burner is switched on.
I know this can be measured empirically, but perhaps someone knows, in which case I would connect in parallel via a relay and to the contactor supplying the heater.

.

But the burner operation can also be for DHW heating - then you want to heat with the heater too?
See on the plug from the fan what kind of wires it is and try it.

A little summary:
1. first of all, thank you for the hint from colleague Is_77 - that I also did not immediately come across this .
2. good point about the fan running when the DHW is in play mode, but:
(a) my DHW is mainly catered for by a 1F 3kW heater built into a 300l DHW tank, the boiler is of course set to a lower DHW task value of 43st. C (in the case of a large consumption, the boiler will switch on, but this is quite a rare situation)
b) I already have an idea how to exclude the operation of the 4.5kW CH heater when the DHW boiler is in heating mode (fan operation), but that will be below.
3 So I measured and checked a bit at the main board
a) the fan is powered from connector X20 - PIN 16 (blue) and 17 (red) - when the fan is running there is about 24V DC (photo below), I am wondering how to "nicely" connect to these cables, maybe there are some connectors that slightly cut the insulation and make as a "T" connector





b) in addition there are two more wires to the fan, i.e. black (3) and grey (4), according to me 3 is the speed measurement (Hall sensor) and 4 is the PWM frequency control of the fan motor - there is about 4V there (photo below)

.

The whole schematic below:




So my quick idea as it's late is this:
- I add a second timer relay fed in parallel from the blast fan circuit pins 16 and 17 of connector X20 (19VDC), the coil supposedly requires 24VDC (hopefully it will switch on) with a delay of 10min, on the NO contact I set in series, the second relay switched on from the circulating pump with a delay of 5 minutes. So in summary we have that when either DHW or CH is switched on, the heater will start 15 minutes after both conditions have occurred. I don't remember the boiler heating my DHW for longer than those 15min, so I rule out the condition of the heater running while the boiler is running DHW. If the DHW is switched on immediately, then the heater operation will also start after 15 minutes. I have tentatively checked that when switching CH to DHW and vice versa then the fan switches off for a while, so the countdown will start again for both time relays.

4 Most importantly, the heater has its own thermostat and thermal protection, so even if something were to happen to the contactor logic, nothing would boil over there.

Please give any comments on my planned solution.

Thanks again for the help of my colleague - Is_77