High Power Consumption in Electric Boiler (1500W ++): Possible Solutions for 28kWh Daily Usage?

Hello,
Desperation prompted me to write the topic, I have no idea what to do. The problem started about 6 years ago, when the old five were replaced and we set up a thermo-boiler, the electricity bill for 2 months came on average for PLN 1150-1300, which is a huge expense. This week, I set up a sub-meter in my apartment and indicated the daily consumption at the level of 34kwh, it turned out that most of it, because as much as 28kW, is consumed by the boiler (the device is new, not yet a year old, 1500W heater with a ++ designation). Yesterday, a plumber came and said that the boiler heats the entire heating system, he set up a check valve (five stopped heating the water in the boiler) and consumption from 18:30 156kWh to 6:22, the meter reading 169 kWh, so it still remains at the level of more than 1 kWh. What else can I do? I would like to add that there are 3 adult people living in the house and these bills are exhausting us.

Alla87 wrote:

and consumption from 18:30 156kWh to 6:22 meter reading 169 kWh, so it still remains at the level of more than 1 kWh

Is it the consumption of the boiler or the entire building at that time? What is the capacity of the boiler?
You have to bear in mind that if the plumber repaired the installation, the boiler will still use its own, because it has to heat the water. For example, a 120-liter boiler must use nearly 7 kWh of electricity to heat up all the water it contains to 55 degrees Celsius. Thus, the boiler will use these few kWh per day.

80l boiler, consumption for the whole apartment. I understand that it gets when it heats up, but no one is wrong and only the fridge is on at night. We made trial measurements and for 12 hours the meter without the boiler consumes less than 4 kWh during the day, after turning on the boiler, where we were only thinking about our hands, the indicator increased to 17.4 kWh. Now, after modifying the heating system, the boiler is turned on for the first time, it heats up for a long time, now it turns on every now and then for about 5 minutes

How much?!
It is not enough to install a check valve. The central heating system piping system must be of a suitable design. The easiest way is to close the valves between the central heating installation and the boiler and physically disconnect the boiler from the central heating installation. I currently have drainage of water from the coil and gaskets in the fittings, energy consumption per day is approx. 1.6 kWh.
Secondly, the DHW installation must be well insulated with heat, a trap made so that the heat does not escape with gravity.
You can test how long the boiler maintains the temperature after the heater is turned off.
Yet such a curiosity. A colleague was checking the installation at the other friend's. The heater consumed 3.5 kW at the start, then the power dropped to 2 kW, the heater was damaged as for me (and the installation was completely screwed up by electricians). In addition, damage to electrical wiring can also cause high bills (real life - 1000 kWh for a building where no one lived).

Installation replaced in June 2017. Boiler changed in January 2018. I do not know anything about it, I was able to check that the boiler consumes about 28 kWh per day. The valve was put in place and that was supposed to solve the problem. The electrician measured everything twice and said it was working properly. The plumber said yesterday that the valve will solve the problem, but probably not completely

Alla87 wrote:

Installation replaced in June 2017. Boiler changed in January 2018. I do not know anything about it, I was able to check that the boiler consumes about 28 kWh per day. The valve was put in place and that was supposed to solve the problem. The electrician measured everything twice and said it was working properly. The plumber said yesterday that the valve will solve the problem, but probably not completely

Hello !

24 hours * 1.5kW = 36kWh in continuous operation!

Why didn't the Lady write anything about:
boiler insulation?
boiler thermostat?
set temperature?
Is there an additional DHW circulation in the installation?

Pictures of the installation would also help.

Evidently the boiler (I understand that since you write about the A ++ class, it is a factory device) still heats the CO. The check valve will not help much here, you should install a coil shut-off valve when the central heating is not working. From my backyard, it was the same. I put on a ball valve, trained my family. Someone forgot to close or open it. I got furious and closed the circuit for good. I heat the water with electricity alone, and for three adults plus a child for the water only, we get no more than 200 zlotys per month.

I do not know if it heats up for the installation, because from 6:20 169.1 kWh to 8:55 169.5 kWh at that time there was nothing done at home, an earlier measurement of 2 hours is about 3 kWh.

The boiler is brand new in a styrofoam insulation, the heater has a thermostat, I suspect that it is set to full power. The building is an old tenement house, I know that the water installation is gravity, I don't know much about it. I will try to add photos, but I don't know what to photograph, the whole or individual elements.

Please show the connection between the boiler and the central heating boiler (pipes / valves etc.).
What is the temperature setting of the thermostat?
Is the boiler plugged in all the time?

As the valve on the coils write, and after the problem. But are you still burning CO in the furnace?
It's cold.

I smoke in the furnace, and after installing the check valve, the water in the boiler is not heated by the furnace. The boiler temperature is set to max, so I was advised that it would heat up once and hold and only heat up. I will try to take photos in the afternoon when I am at home.

Hello,
Good advisers are the ground: "The temperature of the boiler is set to max. I was advised that it would heat up once and hold and only heat up".
Such a setting is 80 degrees Celsius and the boiler heats up to this temperature, and therefore the entire heating system to the pipes, if they are not insulated, plus heat transfer losses through the insulation.
The maximum temperature of tap water is 60 degrees and this is what you can get burned with! You do not read the instructions for use of the boiler?
You listen to "advisers" bill them for advice. We use overheating to 80 degrees once a month to disinfect the boiler and only then.

kortyleski wrote:

Evidently the boiler (I understand that since you write about the A ++ class, it is a factory device) still heats the CO. The check valve will not help much here, you should install a coil shut-off valve when the central heating is not working. From my backyard, it was the same. I put on a ball valve, trained my family. Someone forgot to close or open it. I got mad and closed the circuit for good. I heat the water with electricity alone, and for three adults plus a child for the water only, we get no more than 200 zeta a month.

Or maybe some solenoid valve and thermostat or controller?

It is not a solution. Even if the coil circuit is cut off by a valve, in the case of a poorly made central heating installation, heat will be transferred along the pipes filled with water. For me, there is a difference only after emptying the coil of water.
Heating the boiler with CO is a bit more profitable, but so what if the hot water is only available when it is on fire? Turning the valves? You want to wash in the morning, but the water is cold, because the boiler serves as a heat buffer. Either you heat with a boiler or with electricity. Joining together in a poorly done installation is just a problem. I got pissed once when I was heating my house with electricity, because someone turned the valve and didn't turn it overnight.

It is enough to install a solenoid valve and a differential thermostat for PLN 35 with Allegro at the boiler on the hot pipe.
It works well, I assure you.

I do one more daily measurement after changing the thermostat settings in the boiler heater, unfortunately 3 people are washed at home at different times of the day. So the Terma warmed up several times a day. I do not know if the timer will give something here, but I am considering it strongly

Set the temperature to 50'C and that's it.

Check how much of this water is used. A woman and a handset with goodies is literally a drain on your wallet. In this matter, an ordinary shower head for PLN 5 is enough, which does not need a large flow of water. The second hot water absorber is the kitchen sink. And washing your hands, bad habits are the key here. However, heating 80 liters of cold water requires about 5 kWh depending on the end temperature. 50 ° C is enough for washing hands (you can burn yourself at higher temperatures), while 40 ° C is ideal for showering.
Of course, it would be worth switching to the night or weekend tariff, but it would require a certain routine from the household (showering at certain times and not wasting water), otherwise there will be no hot water. However, if everyone uses the 1st tariff intensively, it will be very unprofitable.
One more thing. You write about 4 kWh for 12 hours. What was involved then? The refrigerator should not consume more than 1 kWh / day, my old one has 0.88 kWh / day on the plate and it actually consumes that much.
I would like photos of the central heating and hot water installations.

Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:

It is enough to install a solenoid valve and a differential thermostat for PLN 35 with Allegro at the boiler on the hot pipe.
It works well, I assure you.

I can assure you that in my case it will not work completely. The supply pipe to the boiler goes almost horizontally to the main riser. The entire pipe is warm despite turning off the valve, because the water is a thermal conductor horizontally. The only solution in my opinion is to connect the pipe vertically, in which the stratification will occur. Without any electronic frills and unnecessary expenses. I can install the boiler higher (the boiler room is tight, but high), but I do not have time to plan it and do it in one evening.

I'm trying to add photos.
4kw was consumed when the washing machine, fridge, electric kettle were running and the boiler was turned off.

I had a similar problem with the boiler (80l), the option of heating the water and reheating did not work.
Installing a time relay (timer) and adapting the heating (heating) times to the time of water consumption helped. The worst thing is when the wife has a day off, because she will choke every gram of hot water (you have to turn the boiler on manually). During the week, I have water heating (heating) 6.15_7.00 and 18.30 -21.30.
In cold periods, when the supply water is at a lower temperature, the heating times must be extended (when the water heats up with CO, the boiler thermostat is turned on or not). It is not an ideal solution, but the electricity consumption per day is lower than with constant heating, measurements are made with a separate meter for the socket. With such heating, a horizontal boiler works better (water is warm faster), tested in a different house.

and this boiler is insulated?
How much water do you need to drain for warm water in the shower?
How thick and insulated are the water pipes?

The water supply pipes are probably not insulated, the boiler is insulated with polystyrene, brand new, the water in the shower gets warm quite quickly. After yesterday's measurements, it was 16.4 kWh per 24 hours, which is less than before the check valve was installed, because then the counter showed 34 kWh per day. Still, it seems to me that it's still too much.

How much water do you go daily?

These 80 degrees were probably advised because if 3 people were bathing in a row, there would be no water anyway, so that it would be enough somehow, it was suggested that maximum heating (then you can add more cold water), although it was forgotten that it was so hot water causes severe burns (water at a temperature of up to 55 degrees Celsius is safe - in the chapter on burns, the medical guide in the chapter on burns states that burns occur when the temperature is above 56 degrees). Electric water heating will never be cheap due to the high power consumption. instantaneous electric water heater I do not know if it would be cheaper (would exclude the second tariff), and it would certainly require an electrical installation almost as for a factory (to heat the water through it, it would have to be very powerful). And no gas there? If there is gas and exhaust and ventilation chimney draft, give Junkers.

Unfortunately, there is no gas, so old construction. Today, after the compilation of 3 family members, 12kwh has already been used, but unfortunately I am not able to make sure that people wash from 10 to 12, it takes from 9 to 13 ... I think about the time programmer and setting it so that the therma does not heat up all day, and that in the hours when someone has to wash, the water is

Alla87 wrote:

Hello,
Desperation prompted me to write the topic, I have no idea what to do. The problem started about 6 years ago, when the old five were replaced and we set up a thermo-boiler, the electricity bill for 2 months came on average for PLN 1150-1300, which is a huge expense. This week, I set up a sub-meter in my apartment and indicated the daily consumption at the level of 34kwh, it turned out that most of it, because as much as 28kW, is consumed by the boiler (the device is new, not yet a year old, 1500W heater with a ++ designation). Yesterday, a plumber came and said that the boiler heats the entire heating system, he set up a check valve (five stopped heating the water in the boiler) and consumption from 18:30 156kWh to 6:22, the meter reading 169 kWh, so it still remains at the level of more than 1 kWh. What else can I do? I would like to add that there are 3 adult people living in the house and these bills are exhausting us.

You wrote that the stove stopped heating the water, from this sentence it follows that the check valve was installed the other way round. The stove should still be able to heat the water, the hot water must not flow back into the stove.

Can I see well? Boiler power connected to the blue coil connection?

But the boiler turns off, does it mean that the valve is installed incorrectly? On the first day, the stove did not heat up the boiler for sure because it was connected to electricity and the water was cold

If the CO worked like this, or the wrong type of valve, in addition, if the coil power terminals are changed, it will also heat badly.

I really do not know the counts, so I called a specialist. I don't know what and how it is connected

Added after 21 [minutes]:

I really do not know the counts, so I called a specialist. I don't know what and how it is connected