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WSK 125 - ignition setting, break on the circuit breaker

Mate1990 47064 18
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At what piston position should the breaker points open on a WSK 125, and what contact gap should be set?

Set the breaker points to start opening 3 mm before TDC, and set the contact gap to 0.4 mm [#17696662] Changing the contact gap changes the ignition timing, so always adjust the gap first and only then set the ignition point; after that, do not move anything else [#17698039] The contact opening can be checked with an ohmmeter, a 5 W bulb in series, or even a strip of paper pulled from between the contacts, though a dial gauge and strobe lamp are more precise [#17708394][#17696685]
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  • #1 17696632
    Mate1990
    Level 6  
    Posts: 19
    Rate: 18
    Board Language: polish
    Hello everyone, I have a question, when should the platinum start to open, how is the piston at the top or 0.3mm before TDC. How would someone measure with a caliper where the plunger is, like the platinum is open. I don't want to spend money on some meters. I only have an electric caliper and a feeler gauge. And they write variously on the Internet, the break on platinum should be 0.4 mm or 0.04 mm, because this is the difference.
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    #2 17696662
    piachu1994
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4151
    Help: 559
    Rate: 1148
    Board Language: polish
    Platinum plates are to open 3 mm before TDC, and the gap on plates is 0.4 mm.
  • #3 17696675
    Mate1990
    Level 6  
    Posts: 19
    Rate: 18
    Board Language: polish
    And are these supposed to be fully open or just to open? Because if I give all the gas, WSK only goes into gear after a while and not all of it as shown in the movies, it is so muddy, I think it is ignition. What do you think?
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    #4 17696685
    benlor72
    Level 11  
    Posts: 8
    Help: 4
    Rate: 12
    Board Language: polish
    The flash point is 3 mm before TDC, which is when the platinum is to open and the gap is not so important that they open and close clearly, sometimes you need to improvise because the equipment is worn or of poor Chinese quality. They recommend 0.4 mm, I never measure it, currently I use a dial gauge and a strobe lamp for such purposes. Thanks to this, I detected and corrected the problem in the ignition of the Chinese cd and wsk, as if you would write any problems.
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    #5 17696686
    grzeniuw
    Level 27  
    Posts: 690
    Help: 113
    Rate: 171
    Board Language: polish
    They are to open 3 mm before TDC of the piston - as my colleague wrote above.
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  • #6 17696701
    Mate1990
    Level 6  
    Posts: 19
    Rate: 18
    Board Language: polish
    Now I understand, I will check and write tomorrow.

    Added after 15 [hours] 35 [minutes]:

    I checked the break, it was 0.30 mm, I set 0.40 mm and you have to dig yourself in to speak. When it starts, I will add a little gas and it goes out. He smokes terribly. And there must be something on the plate that moves, can you file it? And there's a bit of a curve, they don't touch evenly. Or maybe it's a carburetor, this bevel bolt is tightened almost completely, and the other half a turn is unscrewed. It was like that before and she smoked well. I don't know what's going on anymore
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    #7 17698039
    grzeniuw
    Level 27  
    Posts: 690
    Help: 113
    Rate: 171
    Board Language: polish
    If you increased the break on the circuit breaker and did not check the ignition after that, you are too early now. You start by setting the gap and then the ignition point, and you don't move anything else. Check also, replace the capacitor.
    It will be difficult to help you because I can see that you cannot judge the condition of the circuit breaker and it should work precisely. Ask someone on the spot who has an idea and will assess in real life what is wrong with this wuesce. It cannot be done at a distance.
  • #8 17698446
    Mate1990
    Level 6  
    Posts: 19
    Rate: 18
    Board Language: polish
    Tomorrow I will accelerate the ignition, i.e. move it to the left, it will probably be not much.
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    #9 17699255
    benlor72
    Level 11  
    Posts: 8
    Help: 4
    Rate: 12
    Board Language: polish
    Exactly as a colleague writes, each change of the contact gap causes a change in the ignition point. And how do you check the flash point, what method do you use, because they are different. Do not move the carburetor when it was fine, I will only suggest that for such tests I use a drill and a socket wrench as a starter, a magneto cap and spin, it is a pity to strain and kick with my foot.

    Added after 5 [minutes]:

    Remember that the ignition must be between 1.5 and 3.5 in order to fire properly, but you have to be sure it does. Write how you check the ignition, I will tell you how to check the correct operation of the circuit breaker contacts.
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  • #10 17708377
    Mate1990
    Level 6  
    Posts: 19
    Rate: 18
    Board Language: polish
    Hello, after a few days, the weather was bad so I didn't fumble anything. Today I set the gap to 0.40 mm with a feeler gauge and ignited with a 3 mm caliper, before TDC, and a spark plug gap of 0.30 mm. She fired the arrow, turned into high speed right away, and went out. I noticed that the cable for the candle broke, from the frost surely and the pull, the spark is there, but not always. I ordered a set of platinum, a cable, a pipe, a candle, a capacitor, a coil. I will mention everything except the platinum. And the color of the spark, what does it depend on? Because for me it is bright, and it should probably be so bluish.
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    #11 17708394
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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    #12 17708402
    benlor72
    Level 11  
    Posts: 8
    Help: 4
    Rate: 12
    Board Language: polish
    Replace the bucket and check if the pipe is good on the candle, if not, now replace the color may be dirty candles may be dirty or the candle break should be 0.6mm but I would not bury anything in your place replace the cable and how is it leave it like that
  • #13 17729627
    Mate1990
    Level 6  
    Posts: 19
    Rate: 18
    Board Language: polish
    Hello, I changed the cable and the capacitor lit the first time, it also reacts well to the gas, but after a while it goes out as if there was no spark current at times. As I wring the candles, I will light it up and you can do it around the clock, what is it?
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    #14 17729661
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #15 17729786
    Mate1990
    Level 6  
    Posts: 19
    Rate: 18
    Board Language: polish
    It's no, it doesn't move for me. Tomorrow I will change the coil because I have a new one and I will see, maybe it's a coil.

    Added after 18 [hours] 56 [minutes]:

    Hello, I replaced the coil and that was the cause of it all. Now it fires from the kick, immediately goes into rotation. One more thing - the air filter, when I put it on, it muddies it up, even when I put on a metal mesh, it's fine for a while and then it suffocates it, I don't know what to put there so that some muck doesn't fall, anyone has an idea?
  • #16 17731432
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #17 17733452
    Mate1990
    Level 6  
    Posts: 19
    Rate: 18
    Board Language: polish
    No, I put on a cone filter, and the same moments later she's muddy. That's what I thought to break this filter and put only this mesh on the carburetor band, so that it does not clog the 2 holes that are in the carburetor, maybe something will come of it.
  • #18 17733872
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #19 17733998
    Mate1990
    Level 6  
    Posts: 19
    Rate: 18
    Board Language: polish
    Because I put a narrow engine into the frame of the waking part 175 and there is a big difference between the carburetor and the opening for the filter, and no rubber fits there, the carburetor is higher and the opening for the filter is lower.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the ignition settings for the WSK 125 motorcycle, specifically the timing of the platinum opening and the gap settings. Users clarify that the platinum should open 3 mm before TDC (Top Dead Center) with a recommended gap of 0.4 mm. Various users share their experiences with ignition issues, including problems with the circuit breaker, capacitor, and spark plug. Adjustments to the ignition timing and gap are emphasized, along with the importance of ensuring the circuit breaker contacts are functioning properly. The conversation also touches on issues related to air filters and carburetor performance, with suggestions for troubleshooting and replacing faulty components.
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FAQ

TL;DR: For WSK 125, set ignition at 3 mm BTDC; points gap 0.4 mm. "Platinum plates are to open 3 mm before TDC." Use a feeler gauge and confirm opening. This setup cures bogging and hard starts on points ignition bikes. [Elektroda, piachu1994, post #17696662]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps WSK 125 owners quickly set and troubleshoot contact‑breaker ignition to stop bogging, misfire, and stalling.

Quick facts:

Quick Facts

When should the breaker points open on a WSK 125?

At 3 mm before top dead center. That moment the points begin to open is your ignition flash point. Set the piston to that position, then align the breaker to just start opening. This establishes correct timing for a clean spark. [Elektroda, grzeniuw, post #17696686]

At 3 mm BTDC, should the points be fully open or just starting to open?

They should just start to open at 3 mm BTDC. The initial opening is what defines the ignition moment. Full opening is not the target for timing. Ensure the contacts open and close cleanly without bounce. [Elektroda, benlor72, post #17696685]

What is the correct points gap—0.4 mm or 0.04 mm?

Use 0.4 mm. The 0.04 mm figure is incorrect for WSK contact ignition. Set the gap with a feeler gauge on the points’ maximum lift. Tighten the screw and recheck the gap after locking. [Elektroda, piachu1994, post #17696662]

What spark plug gap should I use on WSK points ignition?

Set approximately 0.6 mm. Inspect the plug, cap, and lead at the same time. Replace any cracked cable or worn cap. A correct plug gap supports reliable starting and throttle response. [Elektroda, benlor72, post #17708402]

How do I set ignition timing without a dial gauge or strobe?

Use a simple continuity method. Put an ohmmeter across the breaker and rotate the crank to detect the instant it opens. Alternatively, wire a 5W bulb in series; it goes out at opening. A tissue strip between contacts also slips free at opening. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17708394]

Does changing the points gap change the ignition timing?

Yes. Increasing the gap advances timing, decreasing retards it. "Each change of the contact gap causes a change in the ignition point." Always set the gap first, then re‑time to the opening point. [Elektroda, benlor72, post #17699255]

I increased the gap to 0.4 mm and now it runs worse—why?

You advanced the timing by increasing the gap, so it’s now too early. Reset timing after setting the gap. Check or replace the capacitor if weak. Set gap, then ignition point, and avoid moving other settings. [Elektroda, grzeniuw, post #17698039]

What timing range will still allow the engine to start?

It will usually fire with timing between about 1.5 mm and 3.5 mm BTDC. Verify your specific engine within that window. Once running, fine‑tune to eliminate knock, hesitation, or overheating symptoms. [Elektroda, benlor72, post #17699255]

My WSK starts, revs, then dies or bogs—what should I check first?

Check the high‑voltage coil, plug wire, and cap. A failing coil caused intermittent spark and stalling; replacement restored instant starting and clean revs. Inspect connections and replace cracked leads before carburetor changes. [Elektroda, Mate1990, post #17729786]

What should the spark look like, and can gap affect it at high rpm?

A healthy spark should not be red. "The spark should not be red." Too large a breaker gap may prevent contacts from closing at maximum speed. Too small a gap causes continuous arcing and radio interference. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17708394]

How can I spin the engine for ignition tests without kicking?

Use a drill with a socket as a makeshift starter on the magneto nut. Remove the magneto cap and spin while checking for opening. This saves effort and lets you observe timing changes safely. [Elektroda, benlor72, post #17699255]

How do I diagnose breaker cam/axle issues?

Inspect for wobble on the breaker cam or axle. A wobbling axle caused a machine to run only at high rpm. If you see side play, repair or replace the worn parts before final timing. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17729661]

How do I set WSK 125 timing with basic tools?

  1. Set the points gap to the recommended 0.4 mm at max lift.
  2. Turn the crank to 3 mm before TDC (compression stroke).
  3. Adjust the breaker so the contacts just begin to open at that position, then lock down. [Elektroda, benlor72, post #17696685]

Do I need a strobe lamp and dial gauge, or can I improvise?

A dial gauge and strobe improve precision, but you can improvise if parts are worn or tools are limited. The key is a clean open/close action and correct opening point. The 0.4 mm gap is the recommended reference. [Elektroda, benlor72, post #17696685]

Why does adding a cone or paper air filter make it bog?

Non‑original paper filters can be too restrictive unless very large. The original WSK intake used a vented box, not a small paper element. A small cone may choke airflow and muddy throttle response. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17733872]

Should I ride without a filter or only a mesh screen?

Keep a filter installed. Mesh screens are less precise than proper elements, and debris protection matters. Also check the air inlet path for obstructions before blaming the filter. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17731432]
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