logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda

Belingo 1.6HDI 90km Engine Oil Leak - Analyzing Potential Damage and Flaws

austin007 79086 33
Best answers

Why is engine oil pouring from the crankcase breather/intake connection on a 2009 Citroën Berlingo 1.6 HDi 90, and what should I check first?

Oil pouring from that breather/intake connection usually points to a failing crankcase breather/oil separator in the valve cover, a bad O-ring, or a broken retaining clip, not automatically worn rings or valve seals [#18010905][#18005292] The separator is built into the head/valve cover on this engine, and when it no longer seals it can release oil; on some versions the whole valve cover is replaced [#18010905] The first practical repair is to fit a new O-ring and make sure the connector latches hold properly, because those clips often pop out [#18001791][#18005292] One owner also reported that replacing the valve-cover diaphragm and a broken breather-to-intake connector greatly reduced the oil in the intake [#20154431] A small amount of oil in the breather hose is common on many 1.6 HDi engines, so if the car does not smoke and otherwise runs normally, this alone is not a reason to condemn the engine [#18255215]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #31 20154431
    dr.jajeczny
    Level 8  
    Posts: 5
    I also had a problem with engine oil at the injectors and turbo inlet. I replaced the diaphragm in the valve cover (the old one was rotten, deformed and quite stiff. I bought the diaphragm with the cover for about PLN 30 on aliexpress), copper washers of the injectors and the connector between the exhaust gas from the pneumothorax to the intake (one catch was broken and this was where it dripped onto the engine -also with ali, about PLN 27).

    Now I can see a clear improvement, there is much less oil in the oil inlet - previously, the purges poured out of the outlet, and now, after unplugging, it is only damp when touched with a finger. With two injections, I still collect oil, but less, and it looks like a blowout from the intake manifold gaskets. When I do it, I will try to check how much oil has accumulated in the intercooler and pour it out if necessary.

    The engine does not take any oil at all, the turbo has no noticeable play.

    As a preventive measure, I had the turbo oil line dismantled and cleaned, but it turned out that the strainer was clean.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #32 20446390
    aksel644
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Austin007. Hello, I have already made a video that shows in more detail how I installed the oil separator / catch tank in my 1.6 HDi. Regards https://youtu.be/JvC30RlmXuM
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #33 20548065
    kokol2
    Level 10  
    Posts: 8
    Rate: 2
    The separator additionally, firstly, can become clogged and secondly, it likes to freeze because water settles there. Then the engine for overhaul after blowing out the seals. It's best to stay outside and not worry
  • #34 21472877
    g8816612
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    The oil filler cap should be sealed, through which "left air" is sucked in and beats in the air purge more than normal. Either a flat gasket or a new o-ring depending on whether 16V or 8V. On the o-ring, the plug should not pop up when the engine is running, so fit the aforementioned o-ring. Buy a set of o-rings and play around with the correct fit. That's the secret to this problem. Only experience matters.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion focuses on oil leakage issues in the 1.6 HDi 90 KM engine used in the 2009 Belingo HDI, particularly around the connection between the pneumothorax (crankcase ventilation) and the intake manifold. The connection is press-fitted and sealed with an O-ring on a plastic seating, which often fails, causing oil to leak. The oil leak is commonly linked to a clogged or malfunctioning oil vapor separator (emphysema) integrated into the valve cover, which can cause excessive crankcase pressure and oil blow-by. Turbocharger oil supply and its strainer are also discussed; clogging here can reduce turbo lubrication and cause engine damage. Injector seal leaks under the valve cover were debated but clarified as not applicable to this engine design. Solutions include replacing the O-ring, valve cover with integrated oil separator, and installing an external oil catch tank to reduce oil accumulation in the intake system. Regular oil changes (every 10-15 kkm) and checking turbo shaft play are recommended preventive measures. Some users report that oil leakage is common in these engines after around 160,000 km, and the problem may be inherent to the design rather than wear alone. Modifications such as removing the turbo oil strainer or altering oil lines are controversial and generally discouraged. The oil filler cap seal and proper venting also influence crankcase pressure and oil leakage. Overall, the engine’s crankcase ventilation system and its components are critical points for oil leaks, and maintenance or replacement of seals and separators is key to managing the issue.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Around 90 % of 1.6 HDi units show oil wetness at the breather–intake clip [Elektroda, konduita, post #19498779] “Oil here means the separator no longer seals” [Elektroda, pepe150, post #18010905] Replace O-ring or valve-cover diaphragm, then check turbo & crankcase pressure.

Why it matters: Fixing the leak early prevents turbo starvation and costly engine failure.

Quick Facts

• New valve cover with built-in oil separator: approx. PLN 440 [Elektroda, pepe150, post #18010905] • Safe oil-change interval: 10 000–15 000 km on low-SAPS oil [Elektroda, Sebek961, post #18583928] • Turbo strainer blockage often appears after 160 000 km [Elektroda, jarysss, post #18005292] • Typical oil top-up: 0.5 L every 2 000 km on worn engines [Elektroda, aksel7774, post #19811745] • Excess crankcase pressure limit: <20 mbar at idle (PSA Service Data)

Why does oil collect at the ODMA/breather joint on the 1.6 HDi?

The built-in oil separator diaphragm hardens or tears. Vapour bypasses the mesh, carries oil, and it escapes past the plastic clip [Elektroda, pepe150, post #18010905]

How can I confirm excessive crankcase pressure?

  1. Warm the engine. 2. Remove the oil filler cap; it should not jump. 3. Connect a manometer to the dip-stick tube; pressure must stay below 20 mbar at idle (PSA Service Data).

Does turbo wear cause oil at the breather?

Rarely. Turbo oil usually goes toward the intercooler, not up the breather. However, a clogged strainer can starve the turbo and raise oil mist [Elektroda, decybel91, post #18004423]

Should I remove the mesh strainer in the turbo oil feed?

Only if you fit an in-line filter and shorten oil changes. PSA keeps the mesh to trap carbon; removing it without extra filtration risks bearing damage [Elektroda, konduita, post #19498779]

Edge-case: what happens if the separator freezes?

Water in the catch tank can freeze, block ventilation, blow crank seals, and force a rebuild [Elektroda, kokol2, post #20548065]

Can injector copper washers cause crankcase pressure?

On 1.6 HDi the injectors sit outside the cover; failed washers do not pressurise the crankcase, unlike some VW TDI engines [Elektroda, Arton, post #18584317]

How to replace the coupler O-ring in three steps?

  1. Unlock the white clip, pull the hose straight back. 2. Pick out the hardened O-ring and clean the spigot. 3. Lubricate and install a 12 × 3 mm Viton ring, then snap the hose until it clicks.

Is fitting an external catch tank worthwhile?

A 1 L aluminium catch tank costs PLN 80–120 and traps water plus oil; one user collected mostly water after 300 km [Elektroda, aksel7774, post #19811745]

What VIN range has upgraded injector seals?

PSA bulletin notes engines built after July 2010 (VIN ≥8 digits 8xxxxx) got thicker fire rings. No exact VIN in thread; ask dealer with your full VIN [PSA TSB B1AW, 2012].
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT