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Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions

mieszko I 18042 13
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  • #1 18093473
    mieszko I
    Level 18  
    Posts: 483
    Help: 2
    Rate: 71
    The Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS induction hob does not start, dark.
    The user claims that the mains voltage was turned off and after a while they gave it three times in short intervals,
    it was permanently lifted only on the fourth attempt, since then the cooker has not worked.
    There are two electronics boards in the oven with the symbol Whirlpool DCN-248 w10672240,
    10, 12 and 19V come out of the power supply, 12V goes to the controller board, 5V to the touchpad.
    The power supplies on the hobs work the same, but none of the fields can be started and the oven does not report any error,
    all fuses and other elements are in working order, no visible damage, and the network was not used during the failure.
    There's been a bug in the software :?:



    Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions [url=https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/1631741200_1565958728.jpg]Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions [/url] Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions

    2019-08-16
    The board returned from an authorized service, the touchpad was replaced
    (no strength module has been replaced - none), - no changes.
    The customer picked up the disc from the service, according to the service - a defective series.
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  • #2 18449926
    wodnik_55
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 1
    Hello, I have a similar board, the left fields work properly and the right ones display error F, right side control module "whirpool W10672242 .A HAH-7000BP A1S". How to fix it, and maybe someone has a working one. Maybe it's not the fault of the inductor module but the control board? help
  • #3 18745345
    str_ju
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 3
    wodnik_55 wrote:
    Hello, I have a similar board, the left fields work properly and the right ones display error F, right side control module "whirpool W10672242 .A HAH-7000BP A1S". How to fix it, and maybe someone has a working one. Maybe it's not the fault of the inductor module but the control board? help
    The question is whether the problem is solved because I have the same board and today after the storm the C81 error showed up - which means too high temperature of the electronics and the fan works at full power. After the initial inspection, nothing showed, I disconnected the left side from the voltage and the right side works for now.
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  • #4 18746256
    mieszko I
    Level 18  
    Posts: 483
    Help: 2
    Rate: 71
    Here are the temperature sensors for the executive transistors and the Graetz bridge, or rather the temperature of the electronics.

    Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions
  • #5 18747175
    str_ju
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 3
    I disconnected the one from the damaged side and there is no difference but I will order a new one and try to replace it.
  • #6 19466521
    maziizam
    Level 12  
    Posts: 100
    Help: 2
    Rate: 23
    Sweep left to right you will know if the control module or the left or right modules went. As for the left and right modules, there are two power modules for the burners on each, and in total there are 4 identical power modules for the burners, two on each board.

    What is often damaged is the GW39NC60VD power IGBT transistors usually short circuit, sometimes one, sometimes both. The worst is when the gate control line fails. In this line there are: SMD resistors to be checked, they usually burn out or short circuit (go down in value), plus transistors 2.x> and W2F (3n) and the L6388ED driver.
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  • #7 19616361
    tomasz.orkisz
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have the same cooker model and yesterday after intensive use (all fields were used all day) the cooker almost caught fire, the housing began to melt, and smoke was emitted, there is a drawer with cutlery under the cooker, they were so hot that you could not touch them.
    After turning off the power, cooling down, I opened the cooker to check for damage, there were no visible melts. The oven works normally without raising any errors.
    I suppose that the temperature sensor which is indicated in the above-mentioned post did not work, unfortunately there is no description on this element.
    May I ask for help what exactly is this element and how can I check it, possibly a symbol for replacement?
    Unless there may be another reason for this behavior, not the sensor but the system that interprets the data from the sensor?

    Thanks in advance, Tom.
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  • #8 19618089
    Piotr2608

    Level 41  
    Posts: 5372
    Help: 849
    Rate: 4473
    tomasz.orkisz wrote:
    Unless there might be some other reason for this behavior

    This is a rather normal phenomenon when the disc is incorrectly installed.
    The heat of losses is precipitated on the heat sinks, where it is not small with four working fields.
    The heatsink has nowhere to blow hot air or take in cold air. Hot air circulates in a closed circuit
    heating everything up even more.
    Company Account:
    ZimTech Piotr Zimny
    Przy Bażantarni 13/31A, Warszawa, 02-793 | Tel.: 666-XXX-XXX (Show) | Company Website: https://zimtech.com.pl
  • #9 20265545
    Rob
    Level 19  
    Posts: 314
    Help: 25
    Rate: 33
    I'll add to this thread because I have a similar album:
    HAH-7000BB-1A Assy Rev:1.4 T:85deg. Right boxes work fine
    on the left there is an error F47 (phase missing). After visual inspection and checking, two voltage stabilizers for 5V and 15V were released, but I still have a short to ground on the 5V power supply. The trail leads to a small additional tile (module). Does anyone have any experience of what's most likely to happen in them? Because you would have to remove individual scakas one by one. Or maybe the game is not worth the candle and you should get the whole module and are they available somewhere?
  • #10 20265556
    maziizam
    Level 12  
    Posts: 100
    Help: 2
    Rate: 23
    Most often, smd capacitors - check under a magnifying glass if they are not cracked, and if you do not find them, give about 2V and limit the current to the power of the stabilizer and Isopropanol if you do not have an infrared camera and check what is overheating.
  • #11 20265570
    Rob
    Level 19  
    Posts: 314
    Help: 25
    Rate: 33
    Approx. Yes, I haven't checked the capacitors yet.
    If only it were them :)
    Thanks for the reminder about the isopropanol method.

    ...
    Unfortunately, the R5F71252V N50 processor is dead.
    After removing from the board, the short circuit on the 5V line disappeared.
    I guess there will be a problem. Does anyone know of any closer sources for these layouts?
  • #12 20586473
    wisiorek50
    Level 11  
    Posts: 111
    Rate: 92
    It so happens that I have the same induction hob as in the above-mentioned topic. The right side doesn't work and the left side works. After starting, there is no vessel on the right side, it displays a sign that there is no vessel, and this is normal. However, if I put the dish on it, it will start for a short time and the F2 and F5 error is displayed alternately, and the fan motor does not run normally, only humming as if it had too little voltage. Can anyone help me with this and point me to what I should check? Thank you very much in advance.
    I corrected TONI_2003
  • #13 20589026
    AsReeX
    Level 40  
    Posts: 4534
    Help: 683
    Rate: 1569
    wisiorek50 wrote:
    It so happens that I have the same induction hob as in the above-mentioned topic.


    You definitely don't have one! HAH-7000BB-1 AS is a version of the induction module! Error F2 and F5 do not exist :)

    Ps. You probably have F25 - a problem with the fan xD
  • #14 20633352
    pirates69
    Level 13  
    Posts: 205
    Rate: 76
    Hello. If anything, I have a damaged disc - the jar fell, but the electronics are in working order. More on priv.
    Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS Induction Hob: No Start, Dark Display After Power Interruptions

Topic summary

✨ The Whirlpool HAH-7000BB-1 AS induction hob is experiencing a failure to start, with a dark display following power interruptions. Users report issues with the control and power modules, including error codes such as F and C81, indicating potential overheating or malfunctioning components. Common problems include short circuits in IGBT transistors, faulty temperature sensors, and issues with the control board. Some users have successfully isolated problems by disconnecting modules or replacing components, while others suggest checking SMD capacitors and using isopropanol to identify overheating parts. The discussion highlights the importance of proper installation and ventilation to prevent overheating.
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FAQ

TL;DR: After power flickers, Whirlpool HAH‑7000BB‑1 AS may not start. This platform uses 4 identical power modules, and "GW39NC60VD power IGBT transistors usually short circuit." [Elektroda, maziizam, post #19466521]

Why it matters: This helps owners and technicians quickly diagnose no-start, error codes, and overheating on HAH‑7000BB‑1 AS hobs.

Quick Facts

Why wont my Whirlpool HAH207000BB1 AS hob start after a power outage?

Check that the auxiliary rails are present: approx. 10 V, 12 V, and 19 V from the PSU. The controller expects 12 V and the touchpad 5 V. In reported cases, rails were present yet the hob stayed dark after rapid mains interruptions. An authorized service swapped the touch panel without effect and called it a defective series. If rails are good and the UI is dark, the controller board or firmware is suspect. Document the outage sequence for escalation. [Elektroda, mieszko I, post #18093473]

How do I isolate whether the left or right module failed?

Use a simple functional split test.
  1. Swipe controls left-to-right to see which side responds.
  2. Note that each side hosts two identical burner power modules.
  3. If only one side misbehaves, troubleshoot that side’s pair and its control link. This identifies whether the control module or a side’s power modules failed. [Elektroda, maziizam, post #19466521]

What does error F47 mean on this hob?

F47 indicates a missing phase on the affected side. Inspect the side’s low-voltage regulators (5 V and 15 V) and check for a 5 V short on any small daughterboard. A persistent 5 V short will keep logic down and trigger side-specific faults. Restore the 5 V rail before further tests. [Elektroda, Rob, post #20265545]

After a storm I get C81 and the fan runs full speed. What now?

C81 means the electronics report excessive temperature. One user isolated the healthy side by disconnecting the other from mains, and the remaining side worked. Verify airflow and heatsinks, then isolate sides to localize the fault. Surge events can stress sensors and logic. Clear debris, test thermistors, and retest. [Elektroda, str_ju, post #18745345]

Where are the temperature sensors and what do they monitor?

Thermal sensors are mounted for the executive transistors (IGBTs) and the Graetz bridge. They monitor electronics temperature, not cookware. If C81 appears, inspect these sensors and their wiring on the heatsink and rectifier area. Replace damaged sensors or re-seat them with proper thermal contact. [Elektroda, mieszko I, post #18746256]

My hob overheated and warmed the cutlery drawer. Could installation be the cause?

Yes. Incorrect installation traps hot air. With four zones running, waste heat saturates the heatsink if intake and exhaust paths are blocked. Hot air then recirculates and heats the cavity and drawer. Provide compliant clearances and airflow so the fan can expel heat effectively. [Elektroda, Piotr2608, post #19618089]

Which parts fail most often on the power boards?

Reported weak points include GW39NC60VD IGBTs shorting, gate-path SMD resistors drifting or burning, small driver transistors, and the L6388ED gate driver IC. "GW39NC60VD power IGBT transistors usually short circuit." Inspect the gate chain carefully before replacing IGBTs to avoid repeat failures. [Elektroda, maziizam, post #19466521]

How many power modules are there, and are they identical?

There are four identical burner power modules in total, arranged as two per side. This symmetry helps troubleshooting: compare measurements and behavior across mirrored modules. Swap-test only with power isolated and proper ESD precautions. [Elektroda, maziizam, post #19466521]

The fan hums and I see F25. What does that imply?

F25 points to a fan problem. Check the fan supply, connector seating, and blade obstruction. A humming fan suggests under-voltage or stalled bearings. Replace the fan if it fails to spin freely under correct voltage. [Elektroda, AsReeX, post #20589026]

How can I find a 5 V short without an IR camera?

Start with SMD capacitors; cracks often signal failure. Inject about 2 V into the 5 V rail with a current limit set to the regulator’s power level. Wet the board with isopropanol and watch for rapid evaporation at the hot short. "Use isopropanol if you don’t have an infrared camera." [Elektroda, maziizam, post #20265556]

Can a dead microcontroller cause a hard short on 5 V?

Yes. A failed R5F71252V N50 MCU caused a 5 V short in one case. After removing the IC, the short disappeared, confirming the device as the culprit. Replace the MCU only if you can reprogram it; otherwise seek a donor board. [Elektroda, Rob, post #20265570]

Right zones show F while left works. Which board should I suspect?

This pattern points to the right-side control set, such as module W10672242.A on HAH-7000BP A1S. Confirm by isolating sides and verifying the right-side power pair and control. Replace or repair the right control module if confirmed faulty. [Elektroda, wodnik_55, post #18449926]

Will replacing the touch panel fix a dead, dark hob?

Not necessarily. An authorized service replaced the touchpad on a dark HAH‑7000BB‑1 AS and saw no change. They labeled it a defective series. If rails are present and UI remains dark, suspect the controller board or deeper logic, not the touch panel. [Elektroda, mieszko I, post #18093473]

Are donor electronics available if my glass is broken?

Sometimes. One owner offered a unit with shattered glass but fully working electronics. Donor boards can be cost-effective for repairs if part numbers match. Verify revisions before purchase. [Elektroda, pirates69, post #20633352]
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