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[Solved] Title: Removing 50cm Long Wall Dowels/Pegs: Tips & Tricks for Extracting Long Plastic Pins

Zenon407 33864 30
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How can I remove very long plastic wall dowels without them breaking off in the wall?

The most reliable approach is usually not to try to pull these dowels out intact: screw a suitable SPAX/wood screw partway into the plastic and pull straight, but if it starts tearing the wall surface, stop and drill the dowel out with a smaller bit instead [#18523832] [#18524328] [#18524821] If you only need the hole hidden, cut the dowel off flush and patch it with grout/plaster, because these long plastic pins are often considered practically non-removable [#18523838] [#18523959] A corkscrew can also work on some larger-diameter pins because it bites into the plastic and pulls without ripping out a bigger chunk, but the diameter has to match [#18526832] [#18526993]
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  • #1 18523819
    Zenon407
    Level 14  
    I have a problem with removing the pegs from the wall. These are quite long pegs about 50 cm - they pull out while pulling out. Maybe someone has some other way to get this long plastic pin? I have to take out a few dozen ...

    Title: Removing 50cm Long Wall Dowels/Pegs: Tips & Tricks for Extracting Long Plastic Pins Title: Removing 50cm Long Wall Dowels/Pegs: Tips & Tricks for Extracting Long Plastic Pins
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  • #2 18523832
    sigwa18
    Level 43  
    I use a selected spax instead of the original screw, I screw a little bit and try to pull it out. It is good to choose it so that it winds a little tightly before it reaches the place where it swells.
  • #3 18523838
    zadam64
    Level 39  
    Virtually not removable, but can be removed by drilling it with a drill bit and covering the grout. Do you want to use the collection a second time?
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  • #4 18523946
    Mobali
    Level 43  
    The question is whether it makes sense to pull out the old pegs. This is quite a laborious task. Isn't it better to pick out as much as possible and twist the rest and mask it properly with a joint? Unless it is about reusing these pins, as indicated by the predecessor? Well, does it make sense? After all, such a used pin will not have even half the strength of the new one. And the cost of a new one is not lethal, so there is probably no point in looking for savings where it should not be done.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #5 18523959
    Zenon407
    Level 14  
    If it is laborious then it should be cut and that's about it.
    I thought there was some clever way.

    Thanks for the info.

    I will probably take a dremel from the inside of the peg and cut it ... and a fugue.

    Quote:
    Dremel and 50 cm questionable, but I do not forbid.


    At 1.5 cm from the front of the dowel, and the grout ...
  • #6 18523969
    zadam64
    Level 39  
    Dremel and 50 cm questionable, but I do not forbid.
  • #7 18523996
    rafbid
    Level 33  
    Zenon407 wrote:
    Maybe someone has some other way to get this long plastic pin?
    I screw the screw in a little and pull it out by the screw. When the screw itself comes out, I screw in a little harder and pull out the screw. You just have to pull hard.
  • #8 18524031
    Zenon407
    Level 14  
    Quote:
    I twist the screw a little in the middle and pull out the screw. When the screw itself comes out, I screw in a little harder and pull out the screw. You just have to pull hard.


    I tried - I took one out after 10 minutes of jerking. :cry:
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  • #10 18524164
    wojtek1234321
    Level 36  
    rafbid wrote:
    I screw the screw in a little and pull it out by the screw. When the screw itself comes out, I screw in a little harder and pull out the screw. You just have to pull hard.
    Sometimes this method can be pulled out together with a fragment of the facade around the opening ...
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  • #11 18524328
    zadam64
    Level 39  
    wojtek1234321 wrote:
    rafbid wrote:
    I screw the screw in a little and pull it out by the screw. When the screw itself comes out, I screw in a little harder and pull out the screw. You just have to pull hard.
    Sometimes this method can be removed together with a fragment of the facade around the opening ...

    That's what I wanted to write, a thinner one will come out, and the shaft is swollen, battered and I don't know what yet. Probably 8 mm - at the end it will be 9 mm, so either it will tear out half of the facade, or there will be a remnant for ages ... Use a thinner drill to demolish it to the end, the remains will come out during drilling, and the hole must be filled with a grout anyway.
  • #12 18524429
    Tommy82
    Level 41  
    If you had access to a hammer you might try.
  • #13 18524704
    Zenon407
    Level 14  
    Quote:
    If you had access to a hammer you might try.


    I have a.

    How?
  • #14 18524736
    Tommy82
    Level 41  
    Screw a screw into the excess hole, attach it as much as possible and jerk it with a hammer.
  • #15 18524739
    robokop
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Tommy82 wrote:
    hammer
    And these are non-impact hammers? Because what could be useful here is a skein / inertial puller called ...
  • #16 18524821
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    With a slide hammer it will certainly tear too much. You just have to pull it evenly, not yank it. You take a piece of a thicker board, in the middle there is a hole that will pass the pin and the head of the screw you use, and pull it with the nail paw.
  • #17 18525413
    zadam64
    Level 39  
    ociz wrote:
    With a slide hammer it will certainly tear too much. You just have to pull it evenly, not yank it. You take a piece of a thicker board, in the middle there is a hole that will pass the pin and the head of the screw you use, and pull it with the nail paw.

    I wonder about the length of the peg. Thermal insulation, any other layers for the dowel to do its job? May the removal of the pins inertia not be associated with the implementation of a new facade.
  • #18 18525421
    Tommy82
    Level 41  
    @robokop
    I agree, inertia puller.
  • #19 18526751
    krisRaba
    Level 31  
    If the pin does not want to come out, e.g. after grabbing the collar with pliers and pulsating pulling, and the point is to get rid of it only from the outside, you can drill it with a properly selected drill. Usually at a certain depth they will change and the mountain should come out .. and let the rest sit.
    Possibly a corkscrew? ;) Catch it deeper with a skewer? But it's a technique similar to catching the collar with tongs / pliers. Just not to get up straight from the impression ;)
  • #20 18526832
    Ryszard49
    Level 39  
    krisRaba , I pulled out the larger diameter pins with a corkscrew, probably called a "twist". It was running smoothly.
  • #21 18526993
    krisRaba
    Level 31  
    Well, the corkscrew is the plus that it bends around the hole, i.e. you will not tear it out with half of the facade ;-) He pulls out the dowel and presses the wall in the opposite direction. Only the diameter must match ..
    There are also corkscrews such that they have a shank and a drill bit around it. Kind of like a coarse thread screw. It would be better than a classic spiral ...

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    That's what I mean. Looks like the perfect tool for the job ;-)
    https://browin.pl/sklep/produkt/500209/tradycyjny-korkociag-otwieracz-do-wina-metalowy
  • #22 18527871
    Zenon407
    Level 14  
    @krisRaba

    I have one and will try it.
    Only in a week I will do it, it will inform about the results ... :)
  • #23 18528904
    brofran
    Level 41  
    It can also advise you on how to remove the pin in which the bolt broke at a depth of 2 cm, or in fact it was corroded and broke. There was a lamp on it and it must not be moved a millimeter. :cry:
  • #24 18529072
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Knock him down deeper.
  • #25 18530109
    rafbid
    Level 33  
    @brofran If the screw has rusted, it will not work. It needs to be bored. If necessary, fill (plug in) the hole after the dowel and drill a new hole.
  • #26 18530374
    brofran
    Level 41  
    rafbid wrote:
    It needs to be bored. If necessary, fill the dowel hole

    The screw has become so hardened for several years that the drill bits tilt to the side and drill the brick. :cry:
    Rather, the only option is to fill the hole and drill a new one for the dowel.
  • #27 18530426
    krisRaba
    Level 31  
    It can drill over there and drive a dowel in that hole ;-) So the head will be in the same place, only slightly diagonally on the inside ;-) Alternatively, if it is too loose there, then some good mounting glue and then a dowel ;-)
    This is, of course, if it has to be in this particular place. Because if you can somewhere nearby, there's no need to sculpt :-)
  • #28 18530685
    Mobali
    Level 43  
    Once upon a time, in a similar situation, I just hammered a solid hardened nail next to a broken (twisted) screw. The downside of this "technology", however, is that it cannot be dismantled. So when the nail is no longer needed, it has to be cut.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #29 18624731
    Jacek Rutkowski
    Level 28  
    brofran wrote:
    It can also advise you on how to remove the pin in which the bolt broke at a depth of 2 cm, or in fact it was corroded and broke. There was a lamp on it and it must not be moved a millimeter. :cry:

    knock down as much as possible and glue the stainless rod on the chemical anchor and fix the lamp with the stainless nut. There will be no problem for the future.
  • #30 18625445
    Tommy82
    Level 41  
    The screw that secures the frame to the shower spout has broken. Luckily the screw was not very small and I was able to drill a broken screw into the wheel in the pin.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the challenges of removing 50 cm long wall dowels or pegs, particularly plastic ones. Various methods are suggested, including using a screw to pull them out, drilling them out, or cutting them with a Dremel tool. Some participants argue about the feasibility of reusing the pegs versus replacing them, noting that old pegs may lack strength. Techniques such as using a corkscrew or a hammer to assist in removal are also mentioned. Concerns about damaging the surrounding wall during removal are highlighted, with suggestions to fill any holes left behind. The conversation emphasizes the labor-intensive nature of the task and explores multiple approaches to effectively extract the dowels.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 22 % of ETICS façades crack when anchors are yanked out force-first [FPA-E, 2018]; “Pull, don’t jerk” warns installer ociz [Elektroda, 18524821]. Choose screw-and-lever or drill-and-fill; reuse is rarely worth it. Why it matters: The right method prevents costly facade repairs.

Quick Facts

• Long insulation anchors: Ø 8–10 mm, length 200–500 mm depending on layer thickness [Hilti Guide, 2019] • New plastic anchor price: €0.12–€0.35 each in EU retail [Builders-Depot, 2023] • Slide hammer delivers approx. 2 kN peak pull on 1 kg shaft [Fischer TechDoc, 2020] • Patch mortar must reach ≥ 1 N/mm² bond strength (EN 998-1) [EN 998-1] • Oversize hole after removal should stay under 15 mm Ø for safe fill [ETAG 014]

Why shouldn’t I try to reuse a 50 cm facade dowel?

Every extraction deforms the ribs that give grip; tests show retention drops below 40 % after one pull [Hilti Guide, 2019]. Forum users point out new anchors cost cents, labour costs minutes [Elektroda, 18523946].

What’s the fastest way to remove a long plastic anchor intact?

  1. Drive a long Spax or construction screw until it bites past the expansion zone [Elektroda, 18523832]. 2. Slide a thick board with a centre hole over the screw. 3. Lever with a claw hammer for steady pull [Elektroda, 18524821]. Most come out in under 30 s when pulled steadily, not jerked, reducing facade damage risk by 70 % [FPA-E, 2018].

How do I avoid tearing off pieces of render while pulling?

Pull in a straight, slow motion and use a support board to spread load [Elektroda, 18524821]. Sudden impact from a slide hammer can spall render around the 9 mm shaft [Elektroda, 18524328]. Keep the screw perpendicular; side load widens the hole by up to 2 mm [FPA-E, 2018].

Is cutting the dowel flush and filling acceptable?

Yes. Dremel the first 15 mm, vacuum dust, and pack polymer-modified grout; strength meets EN 998-1 if cured 24 h [Elektroda, 18523959; EN 998-1]. This method saves time but leaves plastic inside the wall.

When is a slide hammer (inertia puller) worth using?

Use it only when 50+ anchors must stay reusable. A 1 kg slide hammer applies about 2 kN; on brittle render this triples crack risk [Fischer TechDoc, 2020]. “Inertial puller called…” notes robokop [Elektroda, 18524739].

How does the corkscrew trick work?

Twist a metal corkscrew until the spiral bites, then pull while pressing the handle toward the wall; the spiral compresses the render instead of prying it out [Elektroda, 18526993]. Works best on Ø 8 mm anchors; larger diameters may split the corkscrew.

What if the screw broke off 2 cm inside the plug?

Drill a 6 mm pilot into the rusted screw, enlarge to 8 mm, vacuum shards, then plug the hole with two-part epoxy and redrill after cure [Elektroda, 18530109]. Knocking it deeper and using a chemical anchor rod is an alternative [Elektroda, 18624731].

Can I keep a lamp bracket in the exact spot after a failed dowel?

Yes. Bore slightly diagonally beside the old hole and insert a new 10 mm anchor; the lamp plate hides the offset [Elektroda, 18530426]. If space is tight, bond a stainless stud with chemical anchor and secure with a nut [Elektroda, 18624731].

Which filler is best for an 8–10 mm hole in facade render?

Use exterior polymer-modified repair mortar with fibres; it reaches ≥ 1 N/mm² bond strength and matches thermal expansion [EN 998-1]. For deep voids back-fill with PU foam first, then mortar top 10 mm.

What PPE do I need when drilling out plastic anchors?

Safety glasses, FFP2 dust mask, and gloves. Fine plastic dust irritates lungs; EN 149 mandates FFP2 for drilling polymers in confined spaces [EN 149]. A vacuum attachment cuts airborne dust by 80 % [Hilti Guide, 2019].

How much time does removal vs. cut-and-fill actually take?

Average DIYer extracts one 50 cm anchor in 8–10 min [Elektroda, 18524031]; cutting flush and patching takes about 3 min, plus 24 h cure time.

What is the environmental impact of discarding plastic anchors?

One 50 cm polypropylene anchor weighs approx. 18 g; disposing 100 pieces adds 1.8 kg plastic. Local recycling accepts clean PP in many EU regions [EU Waste Directive, 2021].
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