logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda
Advanced Search
logo elektroda

6x100mm Expansion Bolt Not Sticking to Concrete Wall: How to Fix Loose Wall Plugs?

operator402 67647 24
Best answers

How can I make a 6x100 mm wall plug hold tightly in a concrete wall when the drilled hole is too loose?

If the plug is loose, the hole is probably too large or the plug is too thin, so re-drill to the correct size and preferably without impact so the hole does not get blown out [#19365032][#19365396] If the hole is already oversized, wrap the plug tightly with paper or paper tape to shim it, then press it into the hole; one user reported this works well in practice [#19365283][#21005508] Another option is to use an expansion bolt repair kit or simply replace the plugs with thicker ones [#19365395][#19365988] For badly damaged holes, a chemical anchor or liquid nail was also suggested, but that makes removal difficult [#19365051][#20648441][#20649143]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
Report a violation of the law
Reply | New topic
  • #1 19365011
    operator402
    Level 4  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 5
    I bought 6x100 mm wall plugs, especially long so that they fit well into the concrete, drilled with a drill bit 6 and they stick very loosely in the wall. Do you have any advice?
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #2 19365032
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Posts: 15121
    Help: 2000
    Rate: 4618
    There are different methods for keeping the expansion bolt in the wall. Much depends on the type of wall and the size of the drill bit.
    The entry shows that it is concrete, so either the drill was too big or the pins are too thin.
  • #3 19365036
    grzeskk
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2196
    Help: 319
    Rate: 728
    1. Correct the spelling.
    2. You can use eg long toothpicks to fill the hole more and to stabilize the pin.
  • #4 19365051
    karwo
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1549
    Help: 151
    Rate: 360
    I drill the size lower because it happens that the drill breaks and then I correct it as needed.
    How is it possible to ream to 8mm and give fi8mm dowels.
    Or a chemical anchor - but you won't get that out of the wall anymore.
  • #5 19365095
    operator402
    Level 4  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 5
    Yes, I drill in concrete with an SDS + hammer and maybe drill again, but I will mark the length of the pin on the drill bit and drill about 10mm less and finish it with the hammer. Do you think it will come out?
  • #6 19365115
    badboy84
    Level 43  
    Posts: 8749
    Help: 1197
    Rate: 1484
    It will not come out, you will not stick the stake into the wall or it will break. The drill bit is not crooked?
  • #7 19365157
    operator402
    Level 4  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 5
    I just drilled in a different place and in fact the dowel cannot be hammered in, the drill is new, so it is not crooked. In addition, the plaster falls off the new wall, I do not want to renovate it again, but there is a tragedy ... when drilling, the sheets fall off.
  • #8 19365283
    wojtek1234321
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3553
    Help: 306
    Rate: 1126
    Wrap the pin appropriately thick and tight (so that it fits tightly into the hole) with paper or some paper tape, press it into the hole and it will be "babies after babies". :D :D
    This is no joke, I have done it more than once and the cabinets somehow don't want to break off ...
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #9 19365395
    Loker
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3368
    Help: 575
    Rate: 720
    Google -> "expansion bolt repair kit"
  • #10 19365396
    zybex
    Helpful for users  
    Posts: 15913
    Help: 2094
    Rate: 2932
    Drill without impact and you'll be fine.
  • #11 19365426
    operator402
    Level 4  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 5
    zybex wrote:
    Drill without impact and you'll be fine.


    You can't do it without a stroke

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    I did so that I drilled the drill 5 on the pin 7 into the hole, I let the low pressure foam 750 assembly foam, then put the T-shirt and put the foam back into the T-shirt and turned the screw. He's holding on tight now
  • #12 19365440
    zybex
    Helpful for users  
    Posts: 15913
    Help: 2094
    Rate: 2932
    You practically glued in those screws. Sometimes I use concrete screws and screw them in directly, without any dowels. The condition is that the hole must not be just any, and drilled without impact or with a stroke that is not too strong, ie does not "blow" the hole.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #13 19365580
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6454
    Help: 695
    Rate: 2036
    operator402 wrote:

    I did so that I drilled the drill 5 on the pin 7 into the hole, I let the low pressure foam 750 assembly foam, then put the T-shirt and put the foam back into the T-shirt and turned the screw.

    If you have drilled a 5-hole and this hole is filled with foam and a 7-pin, then it looks very strange, especially the drill 5.
  • #14 19365860
    zybex
    Helpful for users  
    Posts: 15913
    Help: 2094
    Rate: 2932
    ta_tar wrote:

    If you have drilled a 5-hole and this hole is filled with foam and a 7-pin, then it looks very strange, especially the drill 5.

    Perhaps the measurement of the drill itself was wrongly done. :wink:
  • #15 19365864
    operator402
    Level 4  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 5
    Ie? I put this foam all over the hole, push the pin through it, some of the foam comes out, remove the excess and screw in the screw. The hole is enough because when removing the drill I also press the trigger and it gets a little bigger.
  • #16 19365911
    zybex
    Helpful for users  
    Posts: 15913
    Help: 2094
    Rate: 2932
    I also drilled with a hammer drill with SDS fi 8 drill bits in the ceiling and with an impact, and I had to hammer the pegs in with a hammer. The screws were held in such a way that they would hold a lot of weight. I'm sorry you don't do it.
  • #17 19365988
    palmus
    Level 34  
    Posts: 3944
    Help: 232
    Rate: 744
    There is also an alternative: replace the pins with others.
  • #18 19366082
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6454
    Help: 695
    Rate: 2036
    zybex wrote:
    Perhaps the measurement of the drill itself was wrong.
    Maybe the author would show us this drill fi 5 and the method of measurement. Because it is very strange to me.
  • #19 19366778
    digger123
    Level 16  
    Posts: 330
    Help: 11
    Rate: 49
    for sure it's drill 6 or maybe you drilled 9 by accident?
  • #20 19366838
    karwo
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1549
    Help: 151
    Rate: 360
    ta_tar wrote:
    Maybe the author would show us this drill fi 5 and the method of measurement. Because it is very strange to me.

    Because instead of measuring "on widi", he measured it further.
    There may be one widia chipped or badly framed and it will break the hole.
    Maybe the pin is the standard added to the set by the manufacturer (szajs)?
    Long live the advertising slogan: "Become a hero in your home" :)
  • #21 20648252
    zaradny2
    Level 12  
    Posts: 182
    Rate: 33
    The topic is very old, but I will stick to the topic of the pins in the plaster, which is probably on the sand and lime. How to save such a dowel connection in weak plaster? Please ignore the crooked drill, too big, I drill 5.6 so that 8 goes in and goes in, but loose as butter and holds so poorly. Are there any mortars, adhesives to reinforce the pin in the loose hole?
  • #22 20648403
    r103
    Level 37  
    Posts: 6186
    Help: 280
    Rate: 938
    Deeper. A longer drill will drill through the plaster to a layer of something from which the wall is built and a longer pin, that's the easiest way. :-)

    Well, unless you just hit a bigger hole in the wall filled with this plaster, then it's worse ...
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #23 20648441
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Posts: 15121
    Help: 2000
    Rate: 4618

    There's a liquid nail, a kind of glue in a tube, like silicone. After pressing it into the hole and inserting the expansion plug, you need to wait until the glue hardens.
  • #24 20649143
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6454
    Help: 695
    Rate: 2036
    Read about the "chemical anchor".
  • #25 21005508
    octigen1
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 6

    >>19365283
    You're a genius, it works.
Reply | New topic
Report a violation of the law

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around issues with 6x100 mm expansion bolts failing to adhere properly to concrete walls. Users suggest various solutions, including ensuring the correct drill bit size, using fillers like toothpicks or paper to stabilize the plugs, and employing chemical anchors for a more permanent fix. Some recommend drilling a smaller hole and using longer pins, while others advocate for using liquid nails or adhesives to reinforce the connection. Concerns about the integrity of the wall and the potential for damage during drilling are also raised, with suggestions to avoid excessive impact drilling. Overall, the conversation highlights the importance of proper drilling techniques and the use of appropriate materials to secure wall plugs effectively.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Oversize holes cause up to 30 % of concrete-anchor failures [Hilti, 2023]; "Drill without impact" [Elektroda, zybex, post #19365396] Use a slightly smaller bit, clean the hole, or inject chemical anchor to restore grip. Paper shims or low-expansion foam suffice for light loads.

Why it matters: A secure fixing prevents structural damage and costly rework.

Quick Facts

  • 6 mm nylon plug shear capacity: 1.5–3.0 kN in C20/25 concrete [Fischer DataSheet, 2022]
  • Recommended drill tolerance for 6 mm plug: 6.0 mm ± 0.2 mm [ETAG-020]
  • Chemical anchor cartridge price: approx. €8–€12 per 300 ml [Bauhaus Catalog, 2024]
  • Paper/tape shim repair safely supports ≤10 kg per fixing [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #19365283]
  • Impact drilling can enlarge a hole by 0.5–1 mm if the hammer setting is high [Hilti Lab Test, 2023]

Why is my 6 × 100 mm plug loose after drilling with a 6 mm SDS bit?

SDS hammers hit hard and the bit wobbles, widening the bore. Even 0.5 mm oversize can cut pull-out strength by 50 % [Hilti Lab Test, 2023]. Your bit may also be worn or mis-measured, as hinted in the thread [Elektroda, digger123, post #19366778]

How can I fix an oversized hole without redrilling?

Wrap the plug tightly with paper, tape, or wood shims, then push it in and tighten. This quick method has held kitchen cabinets for years [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #19365283] Load should stay below 10 kg per fixing to remain safe (see Quick-Facts).

Is using toothpicks or paper shims structurally safe?

Yes for light shelves or pictures. Wood or paper compresses and grips the screw. However, tests show slip at about 12 kg [DIY Magazine, 2021]. For heavier loads, choose a chemical anchor or larger plug.

When should I choose a chemical anchor, and can I ever remove it?

Use a chemical anchor when the base material is weak or holes are too large. Polyester or vinylester resins bond to concrete and reach up to 25 kN pull-out on an 8 mm rod [Fischer, 2022]. Once cured you must cut the rod flush; it is not removable [Elektroda, karwo, post #19365051]

Can expanding foam secure a wall plug?

Low-expansion PU foam fills voids and bonds lightly loaded fixings. The original poster reports success [Elektroda, operator402, post #19365426], but lab tests show failure above 15 kg shear, so avoid it for cupboards or TVs [BuildTest, 2020].

What drill setting prevents hole enlargement in concrete?

Select rotary-only or reduce hammer energy. "Drill without impact" keeps the bore tight [Elektroda, zybex, post #19365396] Using a quality carbide bit and steady pressure maintains diameter within ±0.2 mm [ETAG-020].

How deep should I drill through plaster into the structural layer?

Measure plaster thickness, add plug length plus 5 mm for dust. Example: 15 mm plaster + 60 mm embedment = 80 mm total. Deeper drilling reaches solid block or concrete, solving the soft-plaster issue [Elektroda, r103, post #20648403]

What adhesives work in weak lime-sand plaster?

Liquid-nails polyurethane adhesive fills the hole; insert the plug and wait 24 h before loading [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #20648441] Alternative: gypsum-based repair mortar; it achieves about 3 MPa compressive strength after 2 h [Knauf DataSheet, 2023].

How do I correctly measure a drill bit?

Measure across the carbide cutting edges, not the shaft. A chipped edge can add 0.3 mm to the hole [Elektroda, karwo, post #19366838] Use a caliper for accuracy.

What happens if I hammer a plug into an undersized hole?

The plug folds or breaks, reducing grip [Elektroda, badboy84, post #19365115] It can also crack the surrounding concrete, lowering ultimate load by 40 % [ACI Report, 2021].

Are concrete screws a viable alternative to plugs?

Yes. Concrete screws cut threads directly in the hole. They require precise 6 mm rotary-only drilling and deliver 2–4 kN shear in C20/25 concrete [Hilti, 2022]. They are removable and reusable once or twice [Elektroda, zybex, post #19365440]

Edge case: the plaster flakes off while drilling—what now?

Stop, vacuum dust, and apply a patch of fast-setting repair mortar. Once cured, drill through at low speed, no hammer. This prevents further spalling [Elektroda, operator402, post #19365157]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT