[Solved] Tevo Tarantula Printer: Solving PLA Filament Deformation & Adhesion Issues on Aluminum Plate

I am the owner of the Tevo tarantula printer as in the attached photo.
After a considerable explosion of this printer, the stuck Teflon "cover" of the table was damaged. I decided to pull off the leftovers completely and clean the hob. In the meantime, I ordered a new adhesion overlay. Until she didn't come, I tried tapes and to no avail, finally read about blue paper tapes. It's a bit better when you stick it on an aluminum plate, but the filament also deforms and comes off.


I want to print large items with full fill, and I keep stopping my 22 hour printing, already wasted a lot of filament.
I print on PLA.
Yesterday a new original sticker came on the plate and today after work (17 hours of printing) I can see that the PLA sticks to the sticker but the sticker is detaching from the plate! The disc was thoroughly degreased before sticking, and then pressed carefully.
Do you have any advice for me on how to save this printer?
Previously, I had problems with jamming filament and the problem has been solved, maybe now it will work as well.

Heated table?

For PLA, the recommended bed temperature is 60 ° C.

Of course, the table is heated and I have always had 60 degrees on it. For Blue Paper Tape, I set 40 degrees

Added after 3 [minutes]:

The PLA held on to the sticker very well this time, but released the adhesive from the sticker. Maybe it is worth buying a glass? Or how to strengthen the glue with the next sticker? so that it keeps in good contact with the aluminum table?

I suggest using vegetable glue, spray hair gel or C-Stick. In addition, raise the temperature of the bed a little, to 67 ° C and do not create a draft in the place of printing. In the photo you can see that the layers are not going well. Before printing with 100% filling, the table must be properly calibrated. How fast do you print? The glass should help a bit, but you can do it on this table too.

I thought in the morning when I checked that my element, if it is already 2 cm high, will not deform anymore, but still. I am also sure that the table is correctly leveled

Added after 1 [minutes]:

You know, it seems to me that the layers only start to stack badly when the element starts to peel off, i.e. the whole thing goes up

Then try to print on the grid, to be sure about 1 cm outside the outline.

Are these adhesives meant to better attach the sticker, or do you mean spray it on the aluminum plate and print directly on it?

I have it parameterized like this, as long as the printer was running, I had no problems at all

madiz08 wrote:

Maybe it is worth buying glass?

This is the best solution. Although in this matter I am not completely objective because I have never used any stickers. But it prints very well on glass.

I am also skeptical about being fully filled. I already wrote to you about it in this topic.

Yes that's right, I remember. Regarding that topic, I tried to insert indents in Inventor myself, but it turned out that the durability of the material is much weaker
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlWJpc1fdXc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOhnRMGGzFI
At the moment I have something like this and I want to print the reworked axis 1. I want this gear to be fully filled.
Would you recommend a specific glass because there is a lot of it, maybe I will actually try to mount something like that.

Any kind of glass. You have to find a compromise. Because it should be stiff, so ? 4. But on the other hand, such a glass is heavy, which, with the table traveling in Y, may cause missing steps, and therefore the need to reduce the jerk and accelerate. I use ? 2 because of its lightness but also the possibility of using an inductive sensor for homing Z. It does not reach metal through the thicker glass. It also breaks more easily. But the glazing is cheap. At a glazier in my town, the 310x310 glass costs PLN 8.
So you can experiment.

Cool robot. Does it have any practical use?

1 PAWEL wrote:

For PLA, the recommended bed temperature is 60 ° C.

Rather maximum. At 60 ° C, PLA already softens and is hard to avoid elephant feet.

I'll try a second sticker, it should be today, it will probably arrive tomorrow. In general, when I was tearing off the remnants of the old original, the glue layer was thick. The one that was peeling off today had a very nice layer of glue.

madiz08 wrote:

Are these adhesives meant to better attach the sticker, or do you mean spray it on the aluminum plate and print directly on it?

Exactly. C-Stick creates an adhesive layer. The higher the temperature of the bed, the greater the holding force of the printout. I recommend

Thanks for the information, tomorrow after work I will try to get such a preparation, maybe in Castorama or Obi

You will not get it. I order on Allegro.

PS Try to design the rack dust jacket. In plane 0, add a circle with a radius greater by 10mm than the radius of the gear (see drawing), and then pull it up one layer high (e.g. 0.1mm). This will improve the adhesion to the table, and after printing, you can cut it with a knife.



I also propose to reduce the printing temperature to 190 ° C and raise the table to 67 ° C.

Yes, half of the topic, but when your printout detaches from the table, I use a hair spray (heated table) on a sponge and it smears over the entire surface of the table. If something is wrong, you can always gently heat the table and wipe it with a slightly damp sponge or cloth.

madiz08 wrote:

I thought in the morning when I checked that my element, if it is already 2 cm high, will not deform anymore, but still. I am also sure that the table is correctly leveled

Added after 1 [minutes]:

You know, it seems to me that the layers only start to stack badly when the element starts to peel off, i.e. the whole thing goes up

The thicker the element, the harder it pulls really.

Added after 3 [minutes]:

Sometimes something like this helps:
the table is initially set to 50 degrees (PLA)
after printing ok, let's say 1 cm, I manually lower the table temperature during printing until the model reaches, say, 2 to 2.2 cm, more or less, of course, then pause the print and the table to zero degrees.
When the model is completely cool, I resume printing on the completely cold table.

Quote:

PS Try to design the rack dust jacket

This is what I do in Cura. I have BRIM set to 10mm. The Tefloniwa sticker worked, but after a while Sana and PLA began to detach from the table. Maybe if I had just made adhesive glue earlier, everything would be ok. I noticed that the glue is not available in supermarkets. I order nothing but she'll probably be here on Monday at the earliest, if she's going well.

Quote:

Yes, half of the topic, but when your printout detaches from the table, I use a hair spray (heated table) on a sponge and it smears over the entire surface of the table. If something is wrong, you can always gently heat the table and wipe it with a slightly damp sponge or cloth.

I will try today, so I understand that I can apply this gel directly to the aluminum plate and print on a cold table?

An important thing that people often forget is the fact that you shouldn't touch the table with greasy hands after dinner, for example, when we are cooking some cutlets.
This applies to all types of mats, glass, tapes and pads.
Sometimes it happens that I take the model off the table and wrap the tape with my fingers somewhere, then the next printout already peels off.

When you have a good gel or glue, go ahead and heat it up. When I print PLA, I have 50-60 degrees, and with pet-g sometimes even 80. Nothing happens to the gel, and I wash the remains when the table is about 30 degrees and with a slightly damp cloth.
You have to try everything and choose for yourself.

However, instead of the spray-on hairspray (which is waiting at hand), I put on the sticker that came today. I ordered two pieces, and if this one starts to peel off, I will stick the next one only after applying the adhesive layer with the recommended preparation, which I am waiting for.

My colleague is printing the rack on a professional printer in his work, and now I'm trying to print the converted first half of axis 3 of my robot:

At the moment, I can say that the sticker was bought from:
https://allegro.pl/oferta/podkladka-stolu-mat...WFkYTI2ZmVlYjM3NWJkMjkwNjRiZGE3MTMyOGEzZWQ%3D
works very well. Yesterday I wrote to the seller whether it would be worth waiting before sticking to the agent for better adhesion and in response I received that he sticks it directly printing 60 degrees on PLA and 80 degrees on ABS, so I am now going to 60 degrees for PLA. I immediately noticed that the sticker after the table heats up is much better attached to the aluminum table than the Chinese original, so we'll see what will come out later

Added after 14 [minutes]:

And still a little bit on a different topic, you could take a look at the video below (45 seconds)
[movie: 01197e8cd1] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/18_1571864069.mp4 [/ movie: 01197e8cd1]
(if it cuts too much, I will throw in the compressed version)
Earlier, one of my colleagues noticed that the layers were not lining up properly and in fact now I noticed that it is not as perfect as it was before. Maybe it's the fault of the nozzle, which has rubbed more than once. Currently I have 0.3mm and I am waiting for 3 pcs. 0.4mm as in the original.

I also noticed that as the lines marked in the picture above, the nozzle draws running empty to another pouring point. In "CURA" I marked the nozzle size as 0.3mm, and the poured lines are pointed and maybe the nozzle draws for that. I will see nothing if I change the nozzle to 0.4mm.

madiz08 wrote:

... I noticed that like the marked lines in the picture above ...

And these lines are definitely concave (engraved by the nozzle) or convex (overflowing with leaking filament)?

This is a loss of filament, but as the nozzle moves quickly to the next point, you can clearly hear the surface scrubbing. it was not there before, but it probably is not that important

madiz08 wrote:

... as the nozzle moves quickly to the next point, you can clearly hear the surface scrubbing.

Such a thing is possible with over-extruding, but the surface doesn't look like it here. Also check the play on the rollers, especially the X-carriage. With the belt off.

The design of this Tevo tarantula printer is some sort of padaka.
If I know something like that, the potatoes in the cellar rot, because generally such a narrow spacing of the guide rollers on the profile in the middle does not appeal to me.
These types of constructions quickly get slack so that later, for example, the nozzle scratches the surface.

About this " paddocks "I suggested it when buying
http://10topowych.pl/10-topowych-drukarek-3d-z-chin/
After assembly, it also seemed misleading to me, but for over half a year it was doing great, so I knew little about all these things.
The sticker bought on the Allegro website passed the exam in 100%, the one supposedly original from China, I could easily peel off, while the present one, after heating, holds very firmly. If something like this C-Stick has already reached me.
Thanks gentlemen for so many helpful answers

It's cool, the producers must be sure of what they are doing, but it doesn't appeal to me, sometimes it's a bit of an individual matter and personally I would not want a printer built this way.

Summing up, after a few days of printing on the adhesive mat bought on the Allegro, I can confidently say that it is a great thing. Filament detachment completely resolved.

Thanks to everyone for your help