Rotameters - how to regulate.

Hello, I have a problem. I have 7 rotameters when adjusting 5, 6, 7 all rotameters fall to 0?

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Extracted from: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3677849.html
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Not enough information to give any specific advice. Description of the installation, photos, etc.

So far, the installation flew, i.e. 4 years in 1 photo, I cleaned the filter very dirty. I read that if this valve (pic. 2) gets dirty, it is impossible to set the pressure on individual loops on manometers. I set 4 out of 7 and if I still want to set it all drops to 0. Maybe the pump can't do it - photo No. 3.


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I'm uploading a photo. distributor yet. and a photo of the furnace

If the filter is clean and nothing else has been done in the installation, then the pump or TZM remains.
You can't see in the picture what model of pump it is, but maybe a capacitor has failed in it and it doesn't have full power.
You can check this TZM by changing the setting several times from min to max and observe whether there is a reaction (flow change) on the rotameters in extreme positions. The connection of this valve through these unions is also not the happiest, because their passage is smaller than the rest of the installation.
And finally, are you sure that the floor installation is free of air, because the manifold is below the floor level and it is easy to get air.

Can you tell me what TZM is? I'm a bit of a novice on this subject but I'm learning fast.

You know what vents I have above floor level and at the manifold. Each rotameter reacts, shouldn't it be like that, if it's infected, it shouldn't react??

Added after 3 [minutes]:

Thermostatic mixing valve.
If it is possible to know, how are these air vents above floor level resolved? Each loop is cut open and has its own vent?
What are the loop lengths? If all of them are relatively equal, then the flows on each should reach a similar value. Then it can be assumed that they are not aerated.
The pump is always the same? Because a bit weak for so many circuits, unless they are very short.
And I will ask again just for formalities ? did the installation work properly before, nothing was changed in it and suddenly it stopped working?

Added after 8 [minutes]:

Now I see you added a photo of the boiler. Is that on it those two air vents above floor level? Theoretically, if the system is closed and nothing is buried in it, air should not be there, but, for example, when cleaning the filter, it can get there.

Installation is open if that's the case. No, not those two vents. I posted a picture, what is it? Previously, the installation was running fine. It's still running now, but a little slower. Well, as before, I had 1.5 on all rotameters, now you can't set it on each .. I know it's a bit of divination because there can be a lot of factors. But I suspect 1 pump 2 thermo valve. 3 air. I would start by cleaning the valve if it makes sense to clean it at all. Can it be cleaned? What do you think is the best place to start?

Added after 1 [minutes]:

If you meant these 4 vents from the floor, I'm not at home now, I'll get in, I'll write back what and how.

The valve can be dismantled and rinsed under the tap once with warm water once with cold water, then you will see if it reacts to temperature changes because it probably has a setting of 25-40*
The most suspect may be the pump. Do you have a replacement to check?
And remember, after each unsealing of the installation, when air gets into it, it must be vented so that air does not get into the underfloor heating loop.

The valve reacts to temperature changes. Only when it is dirty, it can hinder the flow, apparently it is their defect. Write to me if I want to bleed air, can I connect water from the mains, from the tap immediately or do I need to arrange a pump. I know how to vent, but I don't know if I can from the network??? Will it work. One drawback is that I don't know what length of the loop I have because the court plumber did not describe anything to me and did not leave the dock. Renovation of a house from the 80s. And I didn't know myself very well and I didn't know that I would need it. Now that I live, I'm starting to get to know it all ?

Added after 3 [minutes]:

The same pump was the same from the beginning at the stove, but it went to be replaced a year ago because it wheezed something.

Added after 21 [minutes]:

And these vents are at the beginning of the line before the distributor on the supply and at the return at the end before entering the furnace, so I do not know if they make sense at all.
I know it's hard to help over the net, but I appreciate even a small hint. Thanks a lot for your time and sorry for not very professional answers.

You can as simple as possible from the tap and bleed each loop in turn.
In order for the valve to block the flow, something large would have to fall into it, if it is only "dirty", it will react poorly to temperature changes.
The most suspicious for me is the pump, and even as you write that the same one at the boiler fell, the first thing that should be eliminated. If you're buying a new one, buy a stronger 60.
These air vents above the boiler catch only the air in its vicinity, but when it gets into another place of the installation, it can be taken to the manifold.

Thanks for the help. ?