FAQ
TL;DR: 1 of 3 HDMI ports worked; "only with one HDMI 2 port." If your Chromecast 1 shows black screen/no signal, test all HDMI inputs first, then use the fixes below. [Elektroda, Przemo1983rmi, post #18610506]
Why it matters: This FAQ helps Chromecast 1 owners fix no‑image issues on Technika, Panasonic, LG, and similar older TVs without replacing gear.
Quick Facts
- Symptom pattern: TV switches to HDMI, then black screen and “No signal”; sometimes a countdown appears. [Elektroda, Przemo1983rmi, post #18610047]
- Input-specific behavior: On some sets, only one HDMI input passes Chromecast video; try all ports. [Elektroda, Przemo1983rmi, post #18610506]
- First steps: Use a wall charger and perform a proper Chromecast reset. [Elektroda, staś pytalski, #18627441]
- Root cause often cited: Old TV firmware; the same Chromecast works on newer TVs. [Elektroda, Przemo1983rmi, post #19003139]
- Workaround reported: A powered HDMI splitter stabilized the handshake and restored picture. [Elektroda, Sergi12, post #19573551]
What’s the fastest way to fix a Chromecast 1 black screen/no signal?
Start with power and reset. Use the original wall charger, not the TV’s USB. Hold Chromecast’s button until the LED flashes and the TV shows reset. Re‑set up in Google Home and test again. “Do not take power from the TV, but from the socket.” [Elektroda, staś pytalski, #18627441]
Why does Chromecast only work on HDMI 2 or a single input?
HDMI inputs can behave differently with handshakes. In one case, only 1 of 3 inputs passed video. Try every HDMI input, then stick with the one that works reliably. Rename it in your TV to remember. This pattern indicates an input‑specific compatibility quirk. [Elektroda, Przemo1983rmi, post #18610506]
I see the Chromecast logo, then the TV says “No signal.” What changed?
That pattern suggests the TV loses sync when Chromecast switches modes. Users noticed video during boot, then loss after a higher‑resolution switch. This often points to a handshake or compatibility problem, not Wi‑Fi. Test another HDMI input and stable power. [Elektroda, arcadiuszbr, post #18994856]
Is outdated TV firmware really blocking Chromecast video?
Yes, that’s a common thread finding. One user reported their Chromecast worked on other TVs, but not the older set. Updating firmware can help, though some brands provide no new updates. If updates fail, use the working HDMI input or an external workaround. [Elektroda, Przemo1983rmi, post #19003139]
Will a powered HDMI splitter help in this situation?
Some users report success. A powered splitter can act as a compatibility layer and stabilize the handshake. One member wrote, “The DHCP anti-piracy protocol is to blame,” and a splitter fixed it for them. If you try this, place it between Chromecast and TV. [Elektroda, Sergi12, post #19573551]
Which HDMI input should I pick if some ports show “No signal”?
Test every HDMI port, then use the one that consistently shows video. In one case, only HDMI 2 worked while HDMI 1 and 3 failed. Label that input and keep Chromecast there. This reduces future setup friction and avoids random dropouts. [Elektroda, Przemo1983rmi, post #18610506]
Can unplugging the TV from mains clear an HDMI handshake problem?
Yes. Fully power‑cycle the TV by unplugging it for 10–15 minutes. This clears the HDMI stack in many sets. After reconnecting power, select the Chromecast input and test again. This quick step costs nothing and often restores the picture. [Elektroda, Polon_us, post #18627443]
Does using a phone hotspot cause the black screen on Chromecast 1?
Unlikely here. Users reported installation and connection work normally, yet video drops after a resolution change. That points to HDMI handshake rather than Wi‑Fi issues. Keep using your hotspot, but focus fixes on inputs, power, and TV firmware. [Elektroda, arcadiuszbr, post #18994856]
Is my Chromecast 1 defective if it fails only on one TV?
Probably not. The same Chromecast worked fine on other TVs in the thread. That suggests the TV’s firmware or HDMI implementation is the blocker. Keep Chromecast on the known‑good input or add a compatibility device if needed. [Elektroda, Przemo1983rmi, post #19003139]
Should I try another charger or USB cable for Chromecast 1?
Yes. Use the original 5V wall charger and a good USB cable. Avoid powering from the TV’s USB port to prevent voltage dips. Replace worn cables and retest. “Do not take power from the TV, but from the socket.” [Elektroda, staś pytalski, #18627441]
Why does the picture drop exactly when apps start (YouTube, Netflix)?
Apps may trigger higher resolution or stricter content protection once playback begins. Users saw video during startup, then loss when resolution increased. That is consistent with a handshake or compatibility break. Try a different HDMI input or a powered splitter. [Elektroda, arcadiuszbr, post #18994856]
Can Firefox casting or phone screen mirroring restore the picture?
One user reports success by launching playback in Firefox and using phone projection. This workaround restored both sound and picture for them. It does not fix TV firmware limits, but it can get you streaming. Test it if standard fixes fail. [Elektroda, boskiogier0, post #21535503]
Is my Technika’s HDMI port damaged if a laptop works but Chromecast doesn’t?
Port damage is unlikely if a laptop displays fine. The contrast suggests a compatibility or handshake issue specific to Chromecast. Focus on using the working HDMI input, stable power, and TV resets. Consider a powered compatibility device if needed. [Elektroda, Przemo1983rmi, post #18610047]
After a reset, I briefly see “Chromecast,” then it disappears—normal?
It matches reports in the thread. The TV shows the reset screen, then loses signal as the mode changes. That indicates the handshake breaks after boot. Proceed with input testing, stable power, and firmware checks. [Elektroda, Przemo1983rmi, post #18627621]
