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Bedroom Radiator Squeaking at Maximum Setting Despite Thermostatic Valve Replacement

Damiien123 19680 10
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
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  • #1 19067503
    Damiien123
    Level 9  
    Hello, my bedroom radiator has been squeaking for two months. It only squeaks at the maximum setting, and if I turn it it stops, but the radiator is warm, not hot... Of course, I bled the radiator many times. The rest heats well and does not squeak. I don't know if it's important or not, but this radiator is "first before the stove". Looking for a failure, I replaced the thermostatic valve, but there was no improvement. I reduced the pump speed by one, but the improvement lasted for two hours and he started "playing his music" again.
    That's why I'm asking for tips on what else I can do to stop the beeping and let me sleep! :)
    Regards
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  • #2 19067560
    jdubowski
    Tube devices specialist  
    Damiien123 wrote:
    Looking for a failure, I replaced the thermostatic valve


    Replace it with a valve without a thermostatic head (ordinary), this way you will circumvent the problem.

    Damiien123 wrote:
    I decreased the pump speed by one


    The pressure difference should probably be reduced even further - the pump is selected for too high a lifting height.
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  • #3 19067598
    Damiien123
    Level 9  
    Why replace the valve if nothing happens on other identical radiators?
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  • #4 19067619
    jack63
    Level 43  
    Damiien123 wrote:
    Looking for a failure, I replaced the thermostatic valve, but there was no improvement.

    Did you replace the valve or the head itself?
  • #5 19067622
    jdubowski
    Tube devices specialist  
    Damiien123 wrote:
    Why replace the valve if nothing happens on other identical radiators?


    Because others have meters of pipes in series, and in these meters there is a pressure loss, as a result of which the pressure acting on the valve head is lower.
    And one more idea - if the valve is adjustable (crown under the head), you can also throttle it here - maybe this method will get rid of the problem. Alternatively, throttling the return valve (if present) may help.
  • #6 19067626
    Damiien123
    Level 9  
    jack63 wrote:
    Damiien123 wrote:
    Looking for a failure, I replaced the thermostatic valve, but there was no improvement.

    Did you replace the valve or the head itself?


    I replaced the valve

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    i.e. cross this valve to reduce the flow?

    yes, there is a valve on the return, ok, I will take care of it in the evening and see the results, because it is probably the last thing that could help, since it is not the pump, not air in the system, not a valve or head failure.
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  • #7 19068315
    jdubowski
    Tube devices specialist  
    Damiien123 wrote:
    i.e. cross this valve to reduce the flow?
    yes, there is a valve on the return, ok, I will take care of it in the evening and see the results, because it is probably the last thing that could help, since it is not the pump, not air in the system, not a valve or head failure.


    The cause of the problem is that the thermostatic valve is designed to work with a limited pressure difference - if we exceed it, sounds begin to appear. This is why pressure equalizing valves are used in larger installations - when the pressure difference between the supply and return becomes too large, the valve opens and releases some water from the supply pipe to the return pipe. In smaller installations, the selection of the pump is crucial, yours should be replaced with one giving lower pressure, if you do not want to replace the pump, you have one more solution - a valve parallel to the pump, opening it will reduce the pressure provided by the pump.
  • #8 19068388
    jack63
    Level 43  
    jdubowski wrote:
    the thermostatic valve is designed to work with a limited pressure difference - if we exceed it, sounds begin to appear.

    You're writing something strange. After all, sounds are generated by highly turbulent flow, not by pressure or pressure difference. The greater the valve opening, the smaller the pressure difference across the valve itself, but the volume flow is greater and the velocities in the valve itself are not necessarily greater.
    Damiien123 wrote:
    It only squeaks at the maximum setting, if I turn it it stops, but the radiator is warm, not hot...

    This is a bit strange, because what does warm or hot mean?
    What boiler powers the installation? What radiators?
    What is the method of powering radiators? From the splitter or the bus? Open or closed system?
  • #9 19068544
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
    Is it maybe in Krakow, especially in the area of the Ugorek estate? If so, I could come over and see.
  • #10 19069956
    Damiien123
    Level 9  
    I played with this valve on the return and to be honest, today it was calm, blissful silence... if it's not a coincidence, the problem disappeared :O

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    jdubowski wrote:
    Damiien123 wrote:
    i.e. cross this valve to reduce the flow?
    yes, there is a valve on the return, ok, I will take care of it in the evening and see the results, because it is probably the last thing that could help, since it is not the pump, not air in the system, not a valve or head failure.


    The cause of the problem is that the thermostatic valve is designed to work with a limited pressure difference - if we exceed it, sounds begin to appear. This is why pressure equalizing valves are used in larger installations - when the pressure difference between the supply and return becomes too large, the valve opens and releases some water from the supply pipe to the return pipe. In smaller installations, the selection of the pump is crucial, yours should be replaced with one giving lower pressure, if you do not want to replace the pump, you have one more solution - a valve parallel to the pump, opening it will reduce the pressure provided by the pump.


    I have a valve parallel to the pump. referring to what my colleague wrote :)
  • #11 19070019
    jdubowski
    Tube devices specialist  
    Damiien123 wrote:
    I have a valve parallel to the pump.


    Then dodge it...

    jack63 wrote:
    After all, sounds are generated by highly turbulent flow, not by pressure or pressure difference.


    Whistling and humming sounds are generated by the vibrating valve head, which the head wants to close on one side and open under pressure on the other.
    Turbulent flow generates noise.
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around a bedroom radiator that squeaks at maximum setting despite the replacement of the thermostatic valve. The user has bled the radiator multiple times and noted that the radiator is warm but not hot. Suggestions include replacing the thermostatic valve with a standard valve to reduce pressure differences, adjusting the return valve to manage flow, and ensuring the pump is not set too high. The user found success in reducing noise by adjusting the return valve, leading to a significant decrease in the squeaking sound. The conversation highlights the importance of pressure management and flow dynamics in radiator systems.
Summary generated by the language model.
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