FAQ
TL;DR: Parkside X20V won’t charge? The shunt/fuse likely burned; a 50 A 4012 SMD fuse was suggested; "If he does, the BLDC motor driver in the screwdriver is damaged." [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, #19360685]
Why it matters: This helps Parkside X20V TEAM owners diagnose no‑charge issues fast and choose a safe, proven fix.
Quick Facts
- Failure mode: a burnt current‑sense shunt (the “plate”) on the PCB; it measures current and doubles as a fuse [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, #19360664]
- Suggested fix: 50 A, 4012 ceramic SMD fuse; buy spares; repeat blow hints at a bad BLDC driver [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, #19360685]
- DIY workaround reported: a soldered 30 A automotive fuse restored full charging [Elektroda, Ambor12, post #20374131]
- Charging requires the ID contact; without ID communication, the charger won’t start [Elektroda, g107r, post #19421988]
- Overload case: a drill jam in very hard material preceded failure; pack replaced under warranty [Elektroda, rdmagic, post #19363034]
What failed on my Parkside X20V battery when the charger shows no response?
Your pack’s current-sense shunt (“plate”) likely burned open. That shunt measures charge/discharge current and also serves as a fuse. When it opens, the BMS sees no current path, so the charger appears dead. Repair starts with inspecting the shunt area for cracks or scorching. If pads survive, bridging it temporarily can confirm diagnosis. Expect altered readings if you bypass it. Replace with a proper fuse once confirmed. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, #19360664]
Can I replace the burned shunt resistor/plate?
Yes. Sourcing the exact element is hard because heat changed its parameters. First, clean the broken ends for continuity testing. You may temporarily solder the ends together to see if it accepts charge. "He has two tasks - measuring the current and as a fuse." Plan a proper replacement after testing. Describe where it failed (tool or charger) to narrow root cause. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, #19360664]
What fuse rating and package should I install?
A ceramic SMD fuse in 4012 size rated at 50 A was suggested for this failure. Order several spares, since transient faults can repeat during diagnosis. If it blows again quickly, suspect the tool’s BLDC motor driver as the actual culprit. Replace the fuse only after inspecting the tool electronics. This approach restores the intended protection and current sensing. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, #19360685]
Is a 30 A car fuse a viable fix?
One member replaced the burned element with a 30 A automotive fuse and reported full charging restored. This is a practical workaround, not a like-for-like component. It changes the pack’s protection profile compared with the original part. Verify charging completes normally after the swap. [Elektroda, Ambor12, post #20374131]
What caused my pack to fail during a tough drilling job?
A blocked drill in very hard material can overload the pack and blow the shunt or fuse. In the cited case, the tool jam preceded failure, and the pack was later replaced under warranty. Detecting stall conditions early helps prevent repeat damage. Use appropriate bits and avoid prolonged stalls. [Elektroda, rdmagic, post #19363034]
Why won’t my Parkside charger start without the ID pin?
The ID contact enables a handshake between the battery’s electronics and the charger or tool. Without that communication, the charger withholds current and charging does not begin. Some tools also rely on the ID line to authorize operation. "No charging without this ID, the charger does not give." Check that the ID spring contact is clean and aligned. [Elektroda, g107r, post #19421988]
I opened a charger and saw no chip and even no minus—what’s going on?
One report showed a charger shell with missing control electronics and even the negative contact not present. The owner noticed only after getting it to run. Inspect your charger’s PCB and contacts if behavior seems unusual. [Elektroda, El Diablo, #19429988]
What MOSFET is marked Q1 on this board?
From the shared photo, the Q1 MOSFET’s top-mark reads “CM5N…”. The final characters were unclear in the image. Read the full top-mark under magnification, then cross-reference an SMD code list to identify the exact device. Ensure the replacement matches voltage, current, and package. [Elektroda, kvenihakis, post #19854335]
Can I use or charge the pack without the ID contact connected?
Operation and charging depend on the ID contact in many Parkside setups. Without a valid ID connection, charging does not start. Tools may also refuse to run. Maintain the ID path between pack and tool or charger. Dirty or bent pins can break this communication and stop charging. [Elektroda, g107r, post #19421988]
My two‑year‑old pack lost a cell and then another shorted—what does that imply?
Aging or stressed packs can see one cell wear out and the next cell short soon after. One member reported a two-year-old pack with a worn cell, followed by a second short. That history points to end-of-life cells rather than a fresh-pack defect. Consider replacing cells or the pack if degradation stacks up. [Elektroda, g107r, post #19360795]
How do I temporarily bridge the burned shunt to test charging?
Follow this quick test, then install a proper fuse if charging resumes.
- Clean the broken shunt ends and exposed copper.
- Solder short wire sections to bridge the gap securely.
- Attempt a charge and monitor behavior, noting altered shunt resistance.
Expect changed charging characteristics because the shunt value is no longer original. Remove the bridge after testing to restore proper protection. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, #19360645]
Is this issue specific to Parkside X20V TEAM packs?
This thread concerns Parkside X20V TEAM packs. The original poster confirmed the affected battery was from that system. Similar electronics appear in many packs, but behaviors vary. Always confirm your exact model before applying advice. [Elektroda, rdmagic, post #19363034]
How can I tell if the fault is in the tool or the battery?
Replace the blown shunt with a proper fuse and test. If the new fuse blows again quickly, suspect the tool’s BLDC driver. That points to a tool-side failure causing overcurrent. Quote: "If he does, the BLDC motor driver in the screwdriver is damaged." Test the tool with a known-good pack to confirm. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, #19360685]
What is this SMD tag in my photo?
Share a clear macro photo and read the device’s top-mark code. The posted image asks about the SMD tag near the component, which requires the code to decode. Use good lighting and magnification to capture the letters accurately. Then match that tag to an SMD code reference. [Elektroda, radulvj, post #21250794]
, since the shunt current measuring resistor, that is this "plate", has burned out. Try to clean the broken ends and solder them together with the applied several millimeter sections of the wire. The charging characteristic will of course change (change of the shunt resistance), but maybe it will work for some time.
