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Parkside Battery - New Parkside Battery once used and no surge charge

rdmagic 24504 19
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How can I repair a Parkside battery whose shunt/current-sense resistor has burned out and no longer reacts on the charger?

The burned “plate” is the shunt current-measuring resistor, which also acts like a fuse, so the simplest repair is to clean the broken ends and solder them back together, or replace it with a similar high-current part if you can find one [#19360645][#19360664] The charging behavior may change because the shunt resistance will no longer be exactly the same, but it may work for a while [#19360645] One user reported success by soldering in a 30A car fuse, after which the charger charged the battery to full [#20374131] If it burned in the tool rather than the charger, the screwdriver’s BLDC motor driver may also be damaged [#19360685]
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  • #1 19360639
    rdmagic
    Level 10  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 5
    Hello, a new Parkside battery, once used, connected to the charger, no reaction, burned plate after opening, how to fix it? Parkside Battery - New Parkside Battery once used and no surge charge Parkside Battery - New Parkside Battery once used and no surge charge
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  • #2 19360645
    Krzysztof Kamienski
    Level 43  
    Posts: 21884
    Help: 2030
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    @rdmagic The machine got pretty good over the ears :cry: , since the shunt current measuring resistor, that is this "plate", has burned out. Try to clean the broken ends and solder them together with the applied several millimeter sections of the wire. The charging characteristic will of course change (change of the shunt resistance), but maybe it will work for some time.
  • #3 19360658
    rdmagic
    Level 10  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 5
    Can this resistor be replaced?
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  • #4 19360664
    Krzysztof Kamienski
    Level 43  
    Posts: 21884
    Help: 2030
    Rate: 5146
    @rdmagic Yes, but where are you going to get it, besides, it already had time to change parameters due to overheating. He has two tasks - measuring the current and as a fuse. First, solder these ends and see if the battery is charging. Burned in the tool or charger? And I would like the model of this drill, I will calculate what fuse to put in there instead.
  • #5 19360680
    rdmagic
    Level 10  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 5
    Yes, it did burn in the dewalt dc987 tool
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  • #7 19360759
    rdmagic
    Level 10  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 5
    Ok thanks, best regards ?
  • #8 19360795
    g107r
    Level 41  
    Posts: 5240
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    Did you take the rest out of the case?
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3789658.html#19333666
    Mine is two years old, so the cell was "worn out", and in a moment the second one also shorted.
    An almost identical battery from the electronics side ...

    Added after 4 [minutes]:

    X20V TEAM?
    Because I "break" or buy, and your topic does not cheer up, new and dead?
    I saw that the "sold out" in lidl, so are the new ones not shelf loungers?
  • #9 19363034
    rdmagic
    Level 10  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 5
    Yes, this is the battery, maybe it is my fault because the drill "got a bit after ..." I had a problem with drilling a hole - a terribly hard material and the drill blocked me. But it was under warranty, and they replaced it with a new one.
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  • #10 19363051
    g107r
    Level 41  
    Posts: 5240
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    Can you know where and for how much? I'm looking for "promotion" :)
    For me it's a gadget, I got it with a damaged battery, I don't use it anyway, but maybe I would like to, only manual charging is a bit discouraging ... :(
    On average, I feel like spending money on something that I can use in six months ... although it has come in handy recently.
  • #11 19421976
    El Diablo
    Level 20  
    Posts: 624
    Help: 1
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    Gentlemen, what is it for?

    Parkside Battery - New Parkside Battery once used and no surge charge
  • #12 19421988
    g107r
    Level 41  
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    ID's probably an identification or something.
    So that another battery does not move in the screwdriver or charger, until this contact connects the battery electronics with the electronics of the screwdriver / charger.
    Two of the same chips (one in the battery and the other in the charger) must communicate with each other, because at least for me, without this communication, the ID is not charged.

    Yes, if I have, laptops with power supplies with such an additional contact have the same, a wrongly identified power supply, "not original", may lower our clocks or not charge the battery.

    Added after 18 [minutes]:

    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3797052.html I have + - and these ID and Christmas trees, no charging without this ID, the charger does not give.
  • #13 19429988
    El Diablo
    Level 20  
    Posts: 624
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    Rate: 49
    I bought a charger and there is no chip inside, interestingly there is not even a minus :D
    I only noticed when I got it going.

    Parkside Battery - New Parkside Battery once used and no surge charge

    Parkside Battery - New Parkside Battery once used and no surge charge

    Parkside Battery - New Parkside Battery once used and no surge charge

    Parkside Battery - New Parkside Battery once used and no surge charge
  • #14 19853196
    kvenihakis
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 8
    Could you please tell me the type of the Q1 MOSFET?
    Thanks in advance.
  • #15 19854018
    El Diablo
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    Parkside Battery - New Parkside Battery once used and no surge charge
  • #16 19854335
    kvenihakis
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 8
    Thanks for the quick answer but I still can read all the letters. CM5N...
  • #17 20341511
    pepi12345656
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 1
    Q1 MOSFE замяна с друг някой да има някаква идея
  • #18 20374131
    Ambor12
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 4
    Hello, I had a similar problem. I soldered a 30A car fuse and after the topic. It works, the charger charges to full. Parkside Battery - New Parkside Battery once used and no surge charge
  • #19 21250794
    radulvj
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 1
    Hi, can someone tell me what smd tag this is?
    Parkside Battery - New Parkside Battery once used and no surge charge
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Topic summary

✨ A user reported an issue with a new Parkside battery that showed no reaction when connected to a charger, leading to a burned shunt current measuring resistor. Suggestions included cleaning and soldering the broken ends of the resistor, although it was noted that this would alter the charging characteristics. The possibility of replacing the resistor was discussed, but concerns about sourcing a suitable replacement due to potential parameter changes from overheating were raised. The user confirmed the battery was used in a DeWalt DC987 tool, which may have contributed to the damage. Recommendations included using a ceramic fuse as a replacement and checking for damage to the BLDC motor driver in the screwdriver. The discussion also touched on the importance of battery identification chips for proper charging and compatibility with chargers.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Parkside X20V won’t charge? The shunt/fuse likely burned; a 50 A 4012 SMD fuse was suggested; "If he does, the BLDC motor driver in the screwdriver is damaged." [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #19360685]

Why it matters: This helps Parkside X20V TEAM owners diagnose no‑charge issues fast and choose a safe, proven fix.

Quick Facts

What failed on my Parkside X20V battery when the charger shows no response?

Your pack’s current-sense shunt (“plate”) likely burned open. That shunt measures charge/discharge current and also serves as a fuse. When it opens, the BMS sees no current path, so the charger appears dead. Repair starts with inspecting the shunt area for cracks or scorching. If pads survive, bridging it temporarily can confirm diagnosis. Expect altered readings if you bypass it. Replace with a proper fuse once confirmed. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #19360664]

Can I replace the burned shunt resistor/plate?

Yes. Sourcing the exact element is hard because heat changed its parameters. First, clean the broken ends for continuity testing. You may temporarily solder the ends together to see if it accepts charge. "He has two tasks - measuring the current and as a fuse." Plan a proper replacement after testing. Describe where it failed (tool or charger) to narrow root cause. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #19360664]

What fuse rating and package should I install?

A ceramic SMD fuse in 4012 size rated at 50 A was suggested for this failure. Order several spares, since transient faults can repeat during diagnosis. If it blows again quickly, suspect the tool’s BLDC motor driver as the actual culprit. Replace the fuse only after inspecting the tool electronics. This approach restores the intended protection and current sensing. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #19360685]

Is a 30 A car fuse a viable fix?

One member replaced the burned element with a 30 A automotive fuse and reported full charging restored. This is a practical workaround, not a like-for-like component. It changes the pack’s protection profile compared with the original part. Verify charging completes normally after the swap. [Elektroda, Ambor12, post #20374131]

What caused my pack to fail during a tough drilling job?

A blocked drill in very hard material can overload the pack and blow the shunt or fuse. In the cited case, the tool jam preceded failure, and the pack was later replaced under warranty. Detecting stall conditions early helps prevent repeat damage. Use appropriate bits and avoid prolonged stalls. [Elektroda, rdmagic, post #19363034]

Why won’t my Parkside charger start without the ID pin?

The ID contact enables a handshake between the battery’s electronics and the charger or tool. Without that communication, the charger withholds current and charging does not begin. Some tools also rely on the ID line to authorize operation. "No charging without this ID, the charger does not give." Check that the ID spring contact is clean and aligned. [Elektroda, g107r, post #19421988]

I opened a charger and saw no chip and even no minus—what’s going on?

One report showed a charger shell with missing control electronics and even the negative contact not present. The owner noticed only after getting it to run. Inspect your charger’s PCB and contacts if behavior seems unusual. [Elektroda, El Diablo, post #19429988]

What MOSFET is marked Q1 on this board?

From the shared photo, the Q1 MOSFET’s top-mark reads “CM5N…”. The final characters were unclear in the image. Read the full top-mark under magnification, then cross-reference an SMD code list to identify the exact device. Ensure the replacement matches voltage, current, and package. [Elektroda, kvenihakis, post #19854335]

Can I use or charge the pack without the ID contact connected?

Operation and charging depend on the ID contact in many Parkside setups. Without a valid ID connection, charging does not start. Tools may also refuse to run. Maintain the ID path between pack and tool or charger. Dirty or bent pins can break this communication and stop charging. [Elektroda, g107r, post #19421988]

My two‑year‑old pack lost a cell and then another shorted—what does that imply?

Aging or stressed packs can see one cell wear out and the next cell short soon after. One member reported a two-year-old pack with a worn cell, followed by a second short. That history points to end-of-life cells rather than a fresh-pack defect. Consider replacing cells or the pack if degradation stacks up. [Elektroda, g107r, post #19360795]

How do I temporarily bridge the burned shunt to test charging?

Follow this quick test, then install a proper fuse if charging resumes.
  1. Clean the broken shunt ends and exposed copper.
  2. Solder short wire sections to bridge the gap securely.
  3. Attempt a charge and monitor behavior, noting altered shunt resistance.
Expect changed charging characteristics because the shunt value is no longer original. Remove the bridge after testing to restore proper protection. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #19360645]

Is this issue specific to Parkside X20V TEAM packs?

This thread concerns Parkside X20V TEAM packs. The original poster confirmed the affected battery was from that system. Similar electronics appear in many packs, but behaviors vary. Always confirm your exact model before applying advice. [Elektroda, rdmagic, post #19363034]

How can I tell if the fault is in the tool or the battery?

Replace the blown shunt with a proper fuse and test. If the new fuse blows again quickly, suspect the tool’s BLDC driver. That points to a tool-side failure causing overcurrent. Quote: "If he does, the BLDC motor driver in the screwdriver is damaged." Test the tool with a known-good pack to confirm. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #19360685]

What is this SMD tag in my photo?

Share a clear macro photo and read the device’s top-mark code. The posted image asks about the SMD tag near the component, which requires the code to decode. Use good lighting and magnification to capture the letters accurately. Then match that tag to an SMD code reference. [Elektroda, radulvj, post #21250794]
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