@rdmagic The machine got pretty good over the ears , since the shunt current measuring resistor, that is this "plate", has burned out. Try to clean the broken ends and solder them together with the applied several millimeter sections of the wire. The charging characteristic will of course change (change of the shunt resistance), but maybe it will work for some time.
@rdmagic Yes, but where are you going to get it, besides, it already had time to change parameters due to overheating. He has two tasks - measuring the current and as a fuse. First, solder these ends and see if the battery is charging. Burned in the tool or charger? And I would like the model of this drill, I will calculate what fuse to put in there instead.
Yes, this is the battery, maybe it is my fault because the drill "got a bit after ..." I had a problem with drilling a hole - a terribly hard material and the drill blocked me. But it was under warranty, and they replaced it with a new one.
Can you know where and for how much? I'm looking for "promotion" For me it's a gadget, I got it with a damaged battery, I don't use it anyway, but maybe I would like to, only manual charging is a bit discouraging ... On average, I feel like spending money on something that I can use in six months ... although it has come in handy recently.
ID's probably an identification or something. So that another battery does not move in the screwdriver or charger, until this contact connects the battery electronics with the electronics of the screwdriver / charger. Two of the same chips (one in the battery and the other in the charger) must communicate with each other, because at least for me, without this communication, the ID is not charged.
Yes, if I have, laptops with power supplies with such an additional contact have the same, a wrongly identified power supply, "not original", may lower our clocks or not charge the battery.