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RJ45 socket in the wall, what is the order of cables on the other side

Mickdundee 15576 30
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What wiring standard should I use for the wall RJ45 sockets, and do I need a switch in the attic to connect the router to an access point through the wall cabling?

Use straight-through wiring, preferably T568B on both ends, not crossover [#19484207][#19484215] In-wall cabling should be terminated to the same standard everywhere and then joined in one central place, with a switch there if you want to distribute the network to multiple room runs [#19484215][#19484288] For the specific router-to-AP link described, a properly terminated LSA/keystone connection should work without a switch [#19488314]
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  • #1 19484205
    Mickdundee
    Level 6  
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    Hello, I am looking to slightly expand my home network. The situation is as follows: New house, installation in the walls and standard plugs such as electricity, antenna plug and RJ45 twisted pair plug. This situation occurs in 4 rooms. I have cables in the attic, but unfortunately they are not marked. I have a tool for crimping cables and tips. My question is what should be the order of the cables in the twisted pair (cross or straight). I need to connect them because I wanted to run cables from the sockets to the AP in order to improve the WiFi signal from the living room downstairs. Should I install a Switch in the attic?
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  • #2 19484207
    hermes-80
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    Standard B simple.
  • #3 19484210
    Mickdundee
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    hermes-80 wrote:
    Standard B simple.


    Ok, thank you, and is Switch required in this specific case or can I use something else?
  • #4 19484211
    hermes-80
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    Something else, or what?
  • #5 19484215
    MOSFET - Serwis
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    In walls, lead without crossing. Let`s say that each socket has the T-568b diagram. You connect them all in one place and use a switch there, for example in the attic. You use coss cables to connect devices of the same type, so they won`t be useful here.
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  • #6 19484216
    przeqpiciel
    Network and Internet specialist  
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    There should be the same standard on both sides. A or B, I don`t know why, but I prefer standard B:

    1. half-orange
    2. orange
    3. half-green
    4. blue
    5. half-blue
    6. green
    7. semi-brown
    8. bronze
  • #7 19484288
    KOCUREK1970
    Network and Internet specialist  
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    Mickdundee wrote:
    Is a switch required in this specific case or can I use something else?

    Give me a switch - e.g. Netgear GS105G or if there are not enough ports, Netgear GS108G.
    Mickdundee wrote:
    Should I install a Switch in the attic?

    Do you have any ventilation in this attic?
    I`m asking because it may be too hot there for electronics in the summer.
  • #8 19484522
    takijasiu
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    Mickdundee wrote:
    New house, installation in the walls and standard plugs such as electricity, antenna plug and RJ45 twisted pair plug. This is the situation in 4 rooms. I have cables in the attic, but unfortunately they are not marked. I have a tool for crimping cables and tips. My question is what should be the order of the cables in the twisted pair (cross or straight)


    Well, I don`t know, I have 230V sockets, an antenna socket and RJ45 sockets in the wall. My friend has plugs in his walls, interesting, interesting...

    As already written in the thread, you need a simple connection, i.e. without crossover - but whether it is standard A or B depends on what is on the connector. I also suggest that my friend check to what standard the sockets (all of them) were made and whether they are of any standard at all. The LSA tool is used to terminate the twisted pair on the cube. There are usually colored markings on the connector next to the RJ-45 socket, so it will probably be an A or B standard socket.
  • #9 19484563
    Anonymous
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  • #10 19484742
    takijasiu
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    Erbit wrote:
    takijasiu wrote:
    ...
    Well, I don`t know, I have 230V sockets, an antenna socket and RJ45 sockets in the wall. My friend has plugs in his walls, interesting, interesting...
    ...


    I have 8p8c sockets and plugs, not RJ-45. Interesting.. interesting.


    A person learns something new all his life. It turns out that the RJ-45 is for the modem and should have a tab so that it cannot be inserted into the 8P8C.

    Interestingly, a large wholesaler has only one plug from the 8P8C range: http://www.meditronik.com.pl/quick_search2.php?wzorzec=8p8c&gdzie=sym

    And with RJ-45 they have keystone modules, adapters, adapters - a lot of things: http://www.meditronik.com.pl/quick_search2.php?wzorzec=rj45&gdzie=sym

    Your friend definitely has 8P8C?
  • #11 19484981
    Anonymous
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  • #12 19485083
    jprzedworski
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    Mickdundee wrote:
    what should be the order of the cables in the twisted pair (cross or straight)
    A minor formal note. Order lived , because the cable is all twisted pair. You might know what this is about, but...
  • #13 19485568
    Mickdundee
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    KOCUREK1970 wrote:
    Do you have any ventilation in this attic?
    I`m asking because it may be too hot there for electronics in the summer.


    A valuable note with this temperature. It`s like a sauna there in the summer. I need 5 port. preferably Netgear 1Gbit

    Added after 1 [hours] 11 [minutes]:

    Due to this temperature, I have a slightly stupid question: Will I connect these two cables from the living room downstairs to the room upstairs via a network connector? For example:

    https://allegro.pl/oferta/ugreen-zlaczka-siec...tLyVqKWl9X82gA&adGroupId=OGU4ZmMxOGQtMmMwMi00 MDI2LTljZmMtZjAyNTgxMDBjNTE1AA&campaignId=ZmZkMmNhZjQtOTBhYy00MmM2LTk2Y2ItYzMyNjU4MWE3NWY4AA&sig=56605ea29cb3936c5257644a640c0b18&utm_feed=aa34192 d-eee2-4419-9a9a-de66b9dfae24&utm_content= selected&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ads&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwpus9Jei8QIVWUeRBR04HQNFEAQYBCABEgKJZvD_BwE
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  • #14 19485959
    jprzedworski
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    Mickdundee wrote:
    It`s like a sauna there in the summer.
    Netgear usually provides an operating temperature range of 0-40 degrees.
  • #15 19486357
    KOCUREK1970
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    Mickdundee wrote:
    It`s like a sauna there in the summer.

    Well, I don`t know if a regular fan, even 20cm/12V, will solve the problem - there would have to be a fan, I don`t know, a room fan, which will cool but also dissipate heat, able to work 24/7/30.
    Mickdundee wrote:
    I need 5 port. preferably Netgear 1Gbit

    KOCUREK1970 wrote:
    Netgear GS105G

    Just a small note here - one of the ports must be allocated to connect the switch to the router, which means that we have 4 ports left for further use, which means that in the event of a failure of any of the ports, it is impossible to transfer it to another spare port.
    However, I would buy:
    KOCUREK1970 wrote:
    Netgear GS108G

    There is a reserve of ports, in case of failure of any port, you just connect the cable to a free port and the network continues to work.
    The difference in price between 5 ports and 8 ports is not that significant.
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  • #16 19486491
    Anonymous
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  • #17 19486517
    Anonymous
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  • #18 19486683
    Mickdundee
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    _cheetah_ wrote:
    You can persist, but if it is to be permanent, in my opinion it is better to use an LSA connector of the appropriate category. Unless you have some idea of disconnecting this connection, then it`s a `dice`.


    So theoretically and practically, if I "leave" the living room downstairs using a cable from the main router via one of the LAN ports, I plug into the wall with an RJ45 connector, then in the attic I connect the RJ45 end from the cable coming from the living room to the wall and connect it with an LSA connector to the cable going to the socket in the room where the Access Point is located and connect the RJ45 cable to the WAN port, should it work?
  • #19 19486968
    Anonymous
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  • #20 19488145
    Mickdundee
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    _cheetah_ wrote:
    Maybe make a schematic pencil drawing of what is and what is supposed to be, take a scan or a photo and post it.


    The matter is very simple, namely my intention is to connect the router to the AP through the wall with an RJ45 cable. Unfortunately, I have a cheap TP-link router without WAP and I have to play with cables. For me, theoretically, the LSA connector should solve the problem, but...

    A small written diagram. Router==>Socket in the wall in the living room==>attic - cable from the living room socket with a plug==>LSA connector/switch==>attic - second cable with connector, this time from the socket in the upstairs room==>socket in the wall in the room upstairs==>twisted-pair cable==>AP WAN socket
  • #21 19488180
    Anonymous
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  • #22 19488255
    Mickdundee
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    It`s 43 degrees there now, but in winter I suspect it will even drop to 5-6 degrees. I`m afraid to install this 1GiB Netgar because it may heat up. That`s why I already bought an LSA connector. The cables in the attic are not yet connected, but I have the appropriate equipment (including a network tester) and terminals to make it quickly. But are you sure the LSA connector will pass the test and establish a connection with the AP through the wall sockets? Isn`t a switch necessary here?
  • #23 19488268
    Anonymous
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  • #24 19488307
    Mickdundee
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    - The total length from the devices to the 2 x 1.5 sockets has those in the walls 3-3.5 m, a total of 6.5 meters. it will be somewhere in the middle
    LSA connector.

    - Network card in AP 300 mbps

    - New cables/new house are probably copper
  • #25 19488314
    Anonymous
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  • #26 19488341
    Anonymous
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  • #27 19488345
    Mickdundee
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    Okay, thanks everyone for the tips. I`m going to try it and report back if it works

    Added after 3 [hours] 47 [minutes]:

    Done and everything works as planned. Now TPlink works in AP mode and compared to the Range extender mode it is literally "light years" such a leap. Now you can see that the network is working as it should. The Internet is incomparably faster. Thanks for all the tips. People, don`t install range extenders in your homes because it makes no sense.
  • #29 19496981
    Anonymous
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  • #30 19496990
    tomiok
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    Erbit wrote:
    tomiok wrote:
    ...
    In short, the T568B standard replaced the T568A.


    It may be logical that B (the next letter) is a younger standard than A, but in fact nothing much can be concluded from that discussion, and certainly not that B replaced A. There are no references to any sources in this discussion that would confirm this.


    This statement resulted from my acquired knowledge.

    But there is also this information:
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2615352.html#12594991


    But I am also sending you another example link:
    https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/TIA/EIA-568-B
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the installation of RJ45 sockets in a new house to expand a home network. The user seeks guidance on the correct wiring order for twisted pair cables (T568B standard recommended) and whether a switch is necessary for connecting devices. Responses emphasize using straight-through connections without crossover, and suggest installing a switch in the attic for better network management. Concerns about attic temperatures affecting equipment performance are raised, with recommendations for ventilation. The user ultimately confirms successful setup of an Access Point (AP) using an LSA connector, resulting in improved network performance compared to a range extender.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Cat 5e links remain stable up to 100 m [TIA/EIA-568-B], and "Standard B simple." [Elektroda, hermes-80, post #19484207] —so terminate every jack in T568B and a 6.5 m run bridged by one LSA splice will work without a switch. Why it matters: Correct pinout and temperature-safe hardware prevent hidden Gigabit bottlenecks.

Quick Facts

• T568B pin order: W/O, O, W/G, B, W/B, G, W/Br, Br [TIA/EIA-568-B]. • Max Ethernet channel length: 100 m including patch leads [IEEE 802.3-2018]. • Netgear GS105/GS108 operating range: 0 – 40 °C [Elektroda, jprzedworski, post #19485959] • Copper-clad aluminium (CCA) adds ≈20 % resistance vs solid copper [Fluke, 2020]. • IDC/LSA splice must match cable category (Cat5e/6) to keep ≤ 100 MHz NEXT [Siemon, 2019].

Do I need crossover or straight cabling inside the walls?

Use straight cabling end-to-end. Crossover is only for connecting two identical devices without auto-MDI/MDIX, which modern routers and APs include [Elektroda, MOSFET-Serwis, post #19484215]

Is a switch required in the attic, or will an LSA splice work?

For one point-to-point link a switch is unnecessary. Punch both cables into a Cat5e/6 LSA block to bridge them; at 6.5 m total length the link tests clean [Elektroda, cheetah, post #19488314]

Will the LSA connector carry Gigabit Ethernet reliably?

Yes, if the splice and cable are Cat5e or better and kept under 100 m, it will pass 1 Gb/s with headroom [TIA/EIA-568-B]. “A well-installed LSA connector has a chance of lifelong operation.” [Elektroda, cheetah, post #19488180]

Which small switch is recommended if I later add more rooms?

Use an 8-port unmanaged Gigabit model like Netgear GS108; it leaves spare ports and costs only ~€10 more than the 5-port GS105 [Elektroda, KOCUREK1970, post #19486357]

Can attic temperatures damage a SOHO switch?

Typical SOHO switches are rated 0–40 °C. The attic hit 43 °C, exceeding spec and risking thermal shutdown or shortened lifespan [Elektroda, jprzedworski, post #19485959] Add ventilation or relocate hardware below 40 °C.

How do I map unmarked cables between rooms?

  1. Plug a tone generator into each wall jack. 2. Trace the matching conductor in the attic with a probe. 3. Label both ends before punching down. This avoids future confusion and costs under €20 for tools [Klein, 2021].

What’s the difference between RJ-45 and 8P8C?

RJ-45 is a telephony wiring keying scheme; Ethernet uses the physical 8P8C connector without the keyed tab. The names overlap in everyday speech, but documentation should say 8P8C [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19484563]

3-step: How do I punch a cable into an LSA or keystone jack?

  1. Strip 25 mm of jacket, keeping twists to <13 mm near contacts. 2. Lay each pair on the color-coded slots (T568B). 3. Press with an LSA tool until it clicks and trims excess conductor [TIA/EIA-568-B].

What is the maximum cable length before signal loss?

IEEE 802.3 specifies 100 m for Cat5e/6 including patch leads; beyond this insertion loss rises >22 dB and Gigabit may drop to Fast Ethernet [IEEE 802.3-2018].

What edge cases can still break a short link?

Condensation can corrode contacts when attic air cools below 10 °C, even if temperature is within range [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19488341] Use a sealed junction box with desiccant in humid spaces.

Why did replacing a range extender with a wired AP improve speed?

Range extenders halve Wi-Fi throughput because they retransmit on the same channel, while a wired backhaul gives the AP full channel capacity; users report “light-years” faster nets after switching [Elektroda, Mickdundee, post #19488345]
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