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"Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem

MateuszMikoaj 18726 15
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  • #1 19594854
    MateuszMikoaj
    Level 4  
    Posts: 8
    Board Language: polish
    Hello everyone

    Last month I changed the package in UPC from 150 mb / s to 500 mb / s which was associated with the replacement of the old modem / HORIZON router (it worked without any problems but it was necessary due to the lack of support for such speeds) to the Connect Box modem / router and from that time problems started. Everything connected by cable to this modem works great, no problems, never lost internet. On the other hand, devices that are connected via Wi-Fi is a completely different matter, several times a day (from what I can catch) there is a loss / loss of access to the Internet, sometimes it concerns one device and sometimes all at the same time (while the equipment that is connected with a cable at these moments there are no problems), information about the loss of wi-fi does not pop up, all range lines are maximum but no page is loading / the movie stops playing etc., it usually takes a few seconds but sometimes it happens up that a dozen. I already had 2 visits from UPC technicians, the first one was checking something on the antenna cable that goes to the modem, he put a device on and told me that everything was fine with the incoming signal, he decided that the problem could be the connection between the two cables (one was too short), so he replaced them and said it would be okay. It didn't help, so I had another visit, where I had my modem replaced with another Connect Box, it also didn't help. I do not have any deeper knowledge about electronics, only what I can read on the internet, I have run out of ideas for a possible cause, so I am asking for help because I do not know what to do too much. Thanks in advance for any answers, best regards.
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  • #2 19594891
    Bródka
    Level 42  
    Posts: 7239
    Help: 900
    Rate: 720
    Board Language: polish
    What is the distance between connectbox and devices?
    How many networks do you have in the air (wifi analyzer on the phone)
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
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  • #3 19594915
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #4 19594980
    MateuszMikoaj
    Level 4  
    Posts: 8
    Board Language: polish
    Bródka wrote:
    What is the distance between connectbox and devices?
    How many networks do you have in the air (wifi analyzer on the phone)


    The distance does not matter, it even happens on the phone at a distance of 1 meter from the modem, as far as the number of networks is concerned, it is ~ 5.

    Added after 48 [seconds]:

    _cheetah_ wrote:
    This looks like an obvious wifi problem in your apartment.

    First, do a full wifi diagnosis in the apartment, there you have more -> https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3158772.html

    Preferably InSSIDer (Windows) or WifiAnalyser (Android).

    First measurement at the router itself.

    Subsequent measurements in typical places where mobiles are used. For paws and PCs, it's best to take measurements from them.

    And post screenshots of the spectrum view of the bands (2.4GHz and 5GHz / 6GHz) such as these:
    https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/1297969600_1611503895.png
    https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/9695492800_1454695020.png

    Additional questions:

    1. Do you have the same or different network names for 2.4 and 5GHz?

    2. Disconnection applies to both bands (2.4GHz and 5GHz) or only one?

    3. Have you tried the test with an open (no encryption) wifi network?


    Thanks for the answer, I will be able to do such tests only late in the evening, then I will try to answer
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  • #5 19595131
    KOCUREK1970
    Network and Internet specialist
    Posts: 35122
    Help: 3786
    Rate: 5326
    Board Language: polish
    @MateuszMikoaj
    Connect Box, may have so-called Smart WiFi active, turn it off.
    Additionally, make sure what name and encryption key the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz network have - the names and encryption key for each of these networks should be different.
  • #6 19595183
    MateuszMikoaj
    Level 4  
    Posts: 8
    Board Language: polish
    KOCUREK1970 wrote:
    @MateuszMikoaj
    Connect Box, may have so-called Smart WiFi active, turn it off.
    Additionally, make sure what name and encryption key the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz network have - the names and encryption key for each of these networks should be different.


    I turned off Smart Wi-Fi, changed the name for the 5GHz network and set channel 36, if the encryption key is the wifi password, they are the same (WPA2-PSK security), I do not use the 2.4 GHz network, I did it a few days ago and it it did not work (currently I have 2.4ghz turned on, but even when it was turned off, it did not affect the problem)

    Thank you for your response

    Added after 7 [hours] 6 [minutes]:

    _cheetah_ wrote:
    This looks like an obvious wifi problem in your apartment.

    First, do a full wifi diagnosis in the apartment, there you have more -> https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3158772.html

    Preferably InSSIDer (Windows) or WifiAnalyser (Android).

    First measurement at the router itself.

    Subsequent measurements in typical places where mobiles are used. For paws and PCs, it's best to take measurements from them.

    And post screenshots of the spectrum view of the bands (2.4GHz and 5GHz / 6GHz) such as these:
    https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/1297969600_1611503895.png
    https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/9695492800_1454695020.png


    Additional questions:

    1. Do you have the same or different network names for 2.4 and 5GHz?

    2. Disconnection applies to both bands (2.4GHz and 5GHz) or only one?

    2. Have you tried the test with an open (no encryption) wifi network?


    1. They have different names
    2. I do not know that, I used the 2.4 GHz band only for a few minutes because the maximum speed I can achieve on it is ~ 100mb / s. On the previous HORIZON modem, I also used only 5GHz.
    3. Open network test is without wifi password? If so then no. Is it safe?

    I paste photos
    "Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem
    It is right next to the modem (performed on a Windows laptop)

    "Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem
    It's in the same room at ~ 4 meters (Made on a Windows Laptop)

    "Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem
    It's in the room where the iMac is, the room behind the wall (made on a Windows laptop)


    "Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem "Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem "Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem
    It is performed from the phone in the same locations as on the windows laptop

    "Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem "Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem
    These are tests made on the iMac (room by wall)

    "Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem "Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem
    Laptop windows directly and in a room behind the wall

    "Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem "Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem
    White is the iMac (behind the wall), dark is the MacBook (here was the measurement directly at the modem)
    "Disconnecting Wi-Fi" on the Connect Box (UPC) modem
    It was performed on a windows laptop

    I am waiting for a response :)
  • #7 19596327
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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  • #8 19596413
    MateuszMikoaj
    Level 4  
    Posts: 8
    Board Language: polish
    _cheetah_ wrote:
    Your network has a channel width of 80MHz, which means de facto you occupy channels 34 ... 50, so the rest of the networks overlap with your channels. But, in most cases they are much lower with the levels and as you can see they do not interfere with speeds very much, but they can affect the stability of the network. Nevertheless, it seems to me not to be the problem.

    I would be more of a problem with one of the clients, "teaching" the network for some reasons known only to me. Maybe it's a question of encryption, maybe speed, or maybe it has some problem with communicating with CB at such high speeds (high client load due to encryption of wifi transmission).

    I would start by reducing the speed - it switched to either w 'n' or w stuck to 'ac', but I would reduce the channel width to 40MHz to limit the speeds. And he observed whether the problem was still in an unchanging form.

    Then I would change the encryption or make the network open at all, although the latter on the block is a bit risky.

    Alternatively, you can only leave one client on the current CB settings and see what happens.


    Thank you for your response. What do you mean "I would change the encryption"? Is it the password for Wi-Fi or WPA2-PSK? I have one more question, do you think buying a router (of course some good one) and connecting it to the modem could solve the problem?
  • #9 19596662
    KOCUREK1970
    Network and Internet specialist
    Posts: 35122
    Help: 3786
    Rate: 5326
    Board Language: polish
    @MateuszMikoaj
    The only way to check what the internet is crashing at this stage is to turn off all WiFi devices and connect them one by one. The one you plug in recently and blow up the entire Internet is the culprit.

    There you mentioned something that you also have an imac, several times I came across the opinion that phones iPhones with UPC modem routers were also biting. In connect boxing, the WiFi system is quite picky Mediatek Celeno.
  • #10 19596733
    MateuszMikoaj
    Level 4  
    Posts: 8
    Board Language: polish
    KOCUREK1970 wrote:
    @MateuszMikoaj
    The only way to check what the internet is crashing at this stage is to turn off all WiFi devices and connect them one by one. The one you plug in recently and blow up the entire Internet is the culprit.

    There you mentioned something that you also have an iMac, several times I came across the opinion that iPhones with UPC modem routers were also biting. In connect boxing, the WiFi system is quite picky Mediatek Celeno.


    Thanks for the answer, it will not be easy to check it, but I thank you and others for your help, you brought me closer to the topic and showed more interest than UPC :)
  • #11 19597017
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #12 19598332
    MateuszMikoaj
    Level 4  
    Posts: 8
    Board Language: polish
    Changing the channel width and Wi-Fi mode did not bring positive results.
  • #13 19750652
    kriss7100
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Board Language: polish
    Hey, I just wanted to ask if anything could be cleared up with your problem? I have exactly the same.
    Previously, when I had wifi directly from Horizon, it flickered without problems. Now, when I have a connect box, the devices still lose wifi despite the signal indicator showing max. All devices were used with the Horizon and there were no problems. They already replaced my router, but nothing helped. I am considering delivering my router, but it is a pity for the money, in the end you pay this subscription for something, besides, it is an additional power eater and another box flashing with lights.

    Moderated By jimasek:


    Please create your own thread on the forum
    3.1.19. Do not send messages on archival topics if this is another question, in particular other than the questioning person. Out of respect for the questioner, create your own topic. You can only add a solution to the problem.

  • #14 19751081
    MateuszMikoaj
    Level 4  
    Posts: 8
    Board Language: polish
    kriss7100 wrote:
    Hey, I just wanted to ask if anything could be cleared up with your problem? I have exactly the same.
    Previously, when I had wifi directly from Horizon, it flickered without problems. Now, when I have a connect box, the devices still lose wifi despite the signal indicator showing max. All devices were used with the Horizon and there were no problems. They already replaced my router, but nothing helped. I am considering delivering my router, but it is a pity for the money, in the end you pay this subscription for something, besides it is an additional power eater and another box flashing with lights.



    The problem could not be located or repaired that accurately. However, I noticed that using wi-fi when using Apple hardware actually "magically" sometimes causes internet crashes for all connected people (as some people suggested in the comments). So I assume that something is "biting" between this modem and some devices. It is also a fact that the Internet is not only via Wi-Fi, everything works on the cable at that time. It is possible that not only Apple devices cause this (I noticed that turning off Wi-Fi on the phone, TV and other devices or connecting those next to the modem via a cable reduces the frequency of this phenomenon, so probably the modem is also poorly able to deal with a large number of Wi-Fi users, including very moment). To sum up - most likely this modem is very capricious ....... to put it another way - hopeless and it is the source of the problem (the situation you described is identical to mine, so the conclusion that this is the cause of the new device seems obvious). I didn’t buy or replace any additional devices, the problem still occurs sometimes, so I can’t advise you about a new router (but I assume that something worse than this "miracle" will be hard to find).
  • #15 19751107
    kriss7100
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Board Language: polish
    Thanks for the answer. I generally don't use Apple devices except for 1 iPad, so I would rather not associate this problem with this manufacturer.
    Unfortunately, I have no idea what to do with it, I think you need to try to put your additional router and check how everything will behave then. The strangest thing is that on Horizon all the same devices worked without any problems (phone, iPad, laptop or smart TV). And now, every time I turn on the TV, if kids want to watch something on YouTube, I have to fix the network connection because it doesn't work every time. Previously, there were no such problems. I suspect that these UPC routers have some flaw (I don't know if it's settings or some security). Probably only checking on a completely separate router can confirm this thesis. Everything is fine for UPC.
  • #16 19751373
    MateuszMikoaj
    Level 4  
    Posts: 8
    Board Language: polish
    @ kriss7100

    I guess that's the only possibility. This router is just lame. I didn't change anything except this device and suddenly there were problems (with Horizon it worked without problems).

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around issues experienced with the Connect Box modem/router from UPC after upgrading from a Horizon router. Users report frequent Wi-Fi disconnections despite stable wired connections. Suggestions include conducting a Wi-Fi diagnosis using tools like InSSIDer or WifiAnalyser, ensuring different network names for 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands, and disabling Smart WiFi. Users also discuss potential interference from other networks and the possibility of a problematic device causing disruptions. Some users consider purchasing a separate router to resolve the issues, noting that the previous Horizon router did not exhibit similar problems.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: If your UPC Connect Box Wi‑Fi drops, note that 80 MHz channels “Your network has a channel width of 80MHz.” Reduce to 40 MHz, test encryption, and isolate clients to stabilize service. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19596327]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps UPC Connect Box owners fix full‑signal Wi‑Fi dropouts without replacing their modem/router.

Quick Facts

How do I stop UPC Connect Box Wi‑Fi drops?

Reduce 5 GHz channel width from 80 MHz to 40 MHz to cut overlap. Lock 802.11ac or limit speed to test stability. Change the encryption mode, or briefly test an open network. Leave only one client connected and observe for drops. "Your network has a channel width of 80MHz." [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19596327]

What is Smart Wi‑Fi on Connect Box, and should I disable it?

Smart Wi‑Fi automates band steering and channel choices. Disable it on the Connect Box to avoid disruptive auto‑changes. Then set unique SSIDs and passwords per band to control client behavior. "Connect Box may have so‑called Smart WiFi active, turn it off." [Elektroda, KOCUREK1970, post #19595131]

Should 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz share the same name or password?

No. Use different SSIDs and different encryption keys for 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. This prevents roaming confusion and lets you test each band independently. "The names and encryption key ... should be different." [Elektroda, KOCUREK1970, post #19595131]

Why do I see full Wi‑Fi bars but no internet, while Ethernet works?

This points to a Wi‑Fi layer issue, not the ISP or coax. Devices show strong signal yet stall for seconds or longer. Wired clients remain online during these events. Focus on channel width, encryption mode, and client isolation to restore stability. The original case showed exactly this behavior. [Elektroda, MateuszMikoaj, post #19594854]

How can I find which device is crashing my Wi‑Fi?

Use controlled isolation. "Turn off all Wi‑Fi devices and connect them one by one." How‑To: 1. Disable Wi‑Fi on every phone, PC, TV, and IoT. 2. Enable Wi‑Fi on one device and test 15–30 minutes. 3. Add devices one by one until drops return; the last one likely triggers it. [Elektroda, KOCUREK1970, post #19596662]

Do Apple devices cause issues with UPC Connect Box?

Some users report conflicts with iPhones and iMacs on this hardware. The Wi‑Fi subsystem (Mediatek Celeno) is "quite picky." If drops correlate with Apple devices, try 2.4 GHz for that device or use Ethernet. Isolate by testing with the Apple device disconnected. [Elektroda, KOCUREK1970, post #19596662]

What speeds should I expect on 2.4 GHz vs 5 GHz here?

In this reported setup, 2.4 GHz peaked near 100 Mb/s. The user relied on 5 GHz for higher throughput. Use 2.4 GHz when you need range, and 5 GHz when you need speed. Connect bandwidth‑hungry devices to the 5 GHz SSID. [Elektroda, MateuszMikoaj, post #19595183]

How do I run a quick Wi‑Fi spectrum check at home?

Scan with InSSIDer (Windows) or WiFi Analyzer (Android). First measure next to the router. Then repeat tests in rooms where you use devices. Capture 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz spectrum views to spot overlap and congestion. Use results to choose width and channels. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19594915]

Is it safe to test with an open (no‑password) Wi‑Fi network?

Use an open SSID only as a short diagnostic. It removes encryption as a variable. In apartment blocks, this test is risky because anyone can connect. Run it briefly, confirm behavior, then restore WPA2 protection. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19596327]

Will buying my own router solve these disconnects?

The thread suggests the Connect Box Wi‑Fi is the weak link. One user reduced issues by lowering Wi‑Fi load or using Ethernet. They did not test a third‑party router, so outcomes are unconfirmed. Consider a separate router to bypass the Connect Box Wi‑Fi. [Elektroda, MateuszMikoaj, post #19751081]

I changed channel width and Wi‑Fi mode. Why didnt it help?

In this case, those changes alone did not fix the drops. That indicates client compatibility or security mode issues. Continue by isolating clients and trying different encryption settings. Replace hardware only after these checks. [Elektroda, MateuszMikoaj, post #19598332]

Which 5 GHz channel width should I pick on the Connect Box?

Start with 40 MHz on 5 GHz for stability. At 80 MHz, your network spans approximately channels 34 through 50. That overlap increases contention and can hurt reliability. Narrowing to 40 MHz trades peak speed for smoother links. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19596327]

What does change encryption mean my Wi‑Fi password or WPA2‑PSK?

It refers to the security mode, not your passphrase. For example, WPA2‑PSK is an encryption mode setting, distinct from the Wi‑Fi password text itself. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19597017]
Generated by the language model.
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